Radogast 2 - Return of the Clones

I don't have a current grow in bloom right now but previously I have grown this same strain four times. It tends to yellow its fan leaves at 4 weeks. Each grow I used the same soil, sometimes I added nutes, sometimes I didn't. It seems no matter what I do I can't get a nice green plant all the way until 8 weeks or so. So I wondered, the yellow shows up about the time the buds are really just getting going nice, all the pistils are white-ish, no amber in the trichomes. Maybe it is just hitting the max potential of the root growth at the same time in these 3 gal pots. I think its the strain. I have tried a larger 7 gal cloth pot and it does the same thing. It has a tendency to pop bananas and even a hermie flower at this same point too so I have to really watch at this point and pull any nanners off before they are fully formed.

:peace:
 
What do you feed in your happy frog soil? How long do you veg for? If it shows up when flowers start forming at 3-4 weeks then I would recommend you to add a source of nitrogen if your using bottled nutes (sorry for this guy's) add more grow. Yellowing of some leafs that early can be strain specific like CO mentioned but if they all start going at 4 weeks then u need more nitrogen but remember to give at least a week flush, but I've never noticed much of a drop in ppm with just one week flush, I usually do 2 weeks straight water 7 feedings of water and ppm is down around 400, I'd like to see it around 50 like my tap water, I'll keep trying but I don't like using chemicals, to flush chemicsls.. it's weird.

Back to the organic session, real sorry guys. Im subbed to learn myself.

I&I
 
COorganics said:
We can start with the easy part these mix.

SPM is available at any of the big home improvement stores or your
Local hardware. Or you can sub leaf mold if you can get some.

Aeration: also readily available at HD type stores, although garden center type stores have better options. I like lava rock and pumice for these. Other things work. I have lots of perlite,lava rock, and pumice in my own soil, because I had lots of perlite to use up. The problem with perlite is that it floats up to the top of your no tills over time and doesn't do the job anymore.

Humic material: this is the foundation, the most important part of the equation. Don't cheap out or slack here. Your mix requires 1/3 quality humus. You can use finished composts, vermicompost, or leaf mold here. A bag of wiggleworm won't do it though. Quality is the key word. For those with out worms, buy some a really good compost and a really good vermicompost, use equal part of each for your 1/3 humus portion of your soil. Now, rado, if you did rake up and screen some leaf mold you are covering two bases there so you could only use VC and be just fine for humus in the soil without purchasing a compost in addition. For high quality bagged composts look at coast of Maine lobster compost or oly mountain fish compost or something similar. We want compost that doesn't use bio sludge or solids (like many cheap bagged composts use).

There is the base mix. As far as vermicompost goes, getting it locally would be cool, shipping is a bitch! Check Craigslist in your area for worm guys. This quick guide will help you find a solid source.

read this before buying EWC !!!!!! - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®
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First off + reps rocking the thread with helpful advice:thumb:

Sphagnum Peat Moss vs. Leaf Mold
I know there is leaf mold in the acres of red maple surrounding my back yard. I also know it was -2°F (-17°C) this morning with 30 inches(75 cm) of snow cover in the forest this morning. The low spot where I'd look first for deep lead mold probably won't thaw until late March. ... so

Decision 1) soil now or in April.
Sometime in April/May my state may announce that medical grows must cease because dispensaries are up and running throughout the state. Then again it may be a mess until a recreational legalization vote in 2016.


Aeration / rocks: lighter rocks = bigger pots, so I guess pumice.

This is structural rather than mineral, so any guidelines on size?


Compost/worm castings: Coast of Maine or other premium compost. I'll check out your worm castings link.

Do you recommend the compost be used fresh, or will it still be living after 2 months in a bag?



I feel like I under acknowledged your list with such a short reply, so let me say again... many thanks!!!
 
It pisses me off that our state and local governments would even consider making cannabis medically legal but only if you purchase from a dispensary. In the end it's all about money and control, which is wrong on many levels. Let us grow our own! All they're doing is perpetuating the society of closet and stealth growers and keeping many of us on the wrong side of the law.

Sorry for the rant.
 
SweetLeef said:
I'm trying to figure out how much soil I will have to build too. I think I'm going to need a lot. I want to harvest 6 plants a month in the no-till, and I want a solid 2 month veg. So soil for solo cups, #1pots and... well shit, if I want to do 6 a month, I'll need at least 18 finishing pots, right? Cool. How much soil is that? Am I gonna need to make a cubic yard? Cool.

I think I am going to do 7gallon no tills, I've read 5 will work, but it's harder, I'd do 10gal, From what I've read of CO and others, 10gal is the sweet spot for indoor. I rent my house though and will have to tear my entire set up down and get it out at least once a year and 10 gallons would be a bear to move about. 7 will be a bit of a bitch too I think, but worth it too.

That's what I think I know about that :)
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Based on worm castings at 7lbs per gallon and quick research showing that you can get up to 35 gallon pots before they get over 24" wide.

5 gallon = 35 lbs
7 gallon = 49 lbs
10 gallon=70 lbs.
(1 cubic ft=53 lbs)


For my purposes, and given I only expect to move pots around on planting and flowering day,
I think I'll go with 10 gallon pots at roughly 1.5 cu ft. per pot.

I am planning on fabric pots because I have this habit of over-watering.
If I can translate my desire to water (out of love) into refilling a water reservoir each day that then wicks (swick in sweetsue speech) that will be great! I believe this depends on some roots escaping the bottom of the pot into the perlite (or other wicking media.)

So....
Are fabric pots best for swick?

Is perlite the best choice for a 16 cubic foot (4x8' by 6" deep) swick reservoir?
 
Mr Teddy said:
Thank you, CO. It's not only Radogast and Sweet who are benefiting from your knowledge. Duly copied and pasted. Plenty of crustaceans here in Greece. *grabs pestle and mortar*
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So much what I was thinking. There's a lobster shack in Maine that goes through hundreds of lobster a day. I could go dumpster diving!
 
Yes and yes. The fabric pots assist by acting as wicks themselves, allowing for a more uniform hydration process. The system doesn't depend on the roots exiting the pot, it's simply that in the setup it always happens, and following the sighting of those roots (which you want to break off so they don't get entangled in the perlite) the plants will noticeably take off and grow more vigorously.

Perlite works so much better because of the smaller size and increased surface area. Lava rock works fine though. I'd go with whatever is easier to source and lower in price. I chose perlite because I had no way to get lava rock home from the local Lowe's. One of the advantages of lava rock would be that it won't waft away in the breeze like perlite will, but then that's only a concern until you hydrate it.
 
Sweetsue said:
It pisses me off that our state and local governments would even consider making cannabis medically legal but only if you purchase from a dispensary. In the end it's all about money and control, which is wrong on many levels. Let us grow our own! All they're doing is perpetuating the society of closet and stealth growers and keeping many of us on the wrong side of the law.

Sorry for the rant.
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Having renewed the medical card 3 times now. And having to grow or purchase in the black market for a year.
Spending time and money to get set up to grow (and LOVING the results and the gardening :) )
NOW they say, town x has planted their first seed, get ready to shut down your grow rooms.

I'm in watch and see mode. I understand that is the letter of the law which the people voted in...still,
I can't help feeling a moral right to continue growing.

The doc said we probably qualify for a hardship grow exception, but no need to apply before absolutely necessary... if then.
 
Rado,

Thanks for the info on the soil amounts. That's gonna make it a lot easier to figure out :)

SweetSue, I briefly checked out Bluejays thread a few weeks back because you mentioned it, I will check it out much harder this time around :)

CO,

YES!! I can get to that place very easily. It's about 20-25 minutes from my house. about as far a my job! I'm stoked to be lucky like that. I hate waiting for packages, I'm too impatient.

Exciting!
 
Rado,
One thing, pumice and lava rock both bring minerals to the table and both can be crushed up and add to your soil mix in addition to the unmolested pieces that you will use for aeration. It's another double whammy. An input that serves multiple purposes in the soil mix. I'll get on that tomorrow when I look up rock dust info for you. Things like crab/crustacean meal, neem meal also play multiple roles in the soil. This thing really is well thought out and researched.


Rado, how do you feel about using the CoM lobster kelp product? I think it's good.

Check ya mañana.
 
COorganics said:
Rado,
One thing, pumice and lava rock both bring minerals to the table and both can be crushed up and add to your soil mix in addition to the unmolested pieces that you will use for aeration. It's another double whammy. An input that serves multiple purposes in the soil mix. I'll get on that tomorrow when I look up rock dust info for you. Things like crab/crustacean meal, neem meal also play multiple roles in the soil. This thing really is well thought out and researched.


Rado, how do you feel about using the CoM lobster kelp product? I think it's good.

Check ya mañana.
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Inside my head I told you I agreed on the CoM compost and lobster/kelp. Didn't you hear?

I believe I'd like to add a little straight kelp as, well as lobster/kelp.


I'm leaning towards lava/pumice as a swick medium as well as soil amendment.
 
I've got access to A LOT of shrimp shell parts. I was thinking I would start making my own meal. I am sure I can track down some crab and probably some lobster shells as well to add to it. What about clam and muscle shells added into it as well?

Was thinking I would dry the shells out in the oven, grind em up with my ninja blender and then pound them in a mortar and pestle to make a nice fine powder. It'll be a lot of work, but I think well worth it.
 
SweetLeef said:
I've got access to A LOT of shrimp shell parts. I was thinking I would start making my own meal. I am sure I can track down some crab and probably some lobster shells as well to add to it. What about clam and muscle shells added into it as well?

Was thinking I would dry the shells out in the oven, grind em up with my ninja blender and then pound them in a mortar and pestle to make a nice fine powder. It'll be a lot of work, but I think well worth it.
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Shrimp, crab, and lobster shells are blender items (if you don't care too much about your blades.)
For clam, muscle, and oyster shells, I think you want something closer to a stamp mill- like they used to crush quartz to extract gold.
 
Worm feeding day

Today's menu was organic banana peels, organic baby lettuce, and the core of an Asian Pear.

I extracted 5 seeds from the Asian Pear that will be stored in the refrigerator until the fertility rites of May 1st.
Last year 4 of 5 Asian Pear seeds germinated. The squirrels ate 2 more. I'd like about a dozen seedlings.


Opening the worm bin. When we checked last night there were about 20 worms on top. I guess they were slow to return!

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Looks like a good feeding spot :)

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Feeding Corner #3. There is nothing recognizable as food in the first two corners. No smell or bugs.

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