Please Help: Plant health issue

My DDA auto went about 55ish days until she started blooming. Not quite 8 weeks but close enough.

I harvested her at 109 days.
 
InTheShed said:
Are you watering when the pot feels really light? Every x days?

Ideally, plants that haven't started flowering yet need a good wet/dry cycle to promote root growth and nutrient uptake, so it's best to let the pot get really light before watering again. This changes in flower when it's better to water a day sooner than you do in veg.

Are you feeding it with the week 4 amounts on the FF schedule?

I haven't seen autos that run 56 days before showing pistils, but if that's what the breeder says, then you're still on target. That said, if this is truly an auto, it's certainly big enough to transplant without being afraid of shocking it into flower. Transplanting is easiest to do with mostly dry soil.

If you do, go with the inverse sandcastle method, where you fill the new pot with your soil/perlite mix around a pot of the exact size of the the old one (or even use the old one to make the hole), creating the negative image of the pot in the new soil. Then you can peel down the existing pot and slide the rootball into the hole, and pack the soil around it. Then water to runoff with full nutes. That's the least damaging way of doing transplants.


I try to run close to 50/50 because more oxygen is better.
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Just noticed some pistils coming in. The FFOF isn’t getting here till 26th. Would I still be able to transplant and do I need to flip to 12/12? Also more of my fan leaves are starting to wither away. First brown dead spots then entire tips of the leaves. I flushed it last night with pH’d water (10 gal). Had a high pH runoff till the end. At first PPM run off was around 1250, with a 7.8 pH. When I was done, run off was 380 PPM and 6.8 pH. Finished with FF week 4 nutes (1 gal). Any clue to what’s up with her and did I do it right?
 
Cintetik said:
Since I only have the FF trio, per schedule those three do not meet the PPM needed for that week
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Forget the PPM numbers on the FF chart. They're assuming you own all 13 products. As I recall from when I was using the FF trio, I was around 750-850 PPM (not including the PPM of the water) at the end of veg, and from 900-1100 by harvest. What numbers do you get (subtracting water) with the week 4 feeding?
Cintetik said:
So for me to score the root ball, I would have to strip it free of all the old soil, right? Any hints on how to do it right?
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What 013 said! The rootball is the roots and the dirt they're hanging on to.
Cintetik said:
also what’s a “mother plant” and can a plant go through more than one flowering cycle?
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A mother plant is a photoperiod plant you keep in veg (never flip to flower) that you cut clones from. It's the mother and the clones are the babies. Cute huh?
Virgin Ground said:
My DDA auto went about 55ish days until she started blooming. Not quite 8 weeks but close enough.
I harvested her at 109 days.
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And that's why it turned out to be amazing, if not typical! Cint seems to have the same thing going on. ↓
Cintetik said:
Just noticed some pistils coming in. The FFOF isn’t getting here till 26th. Would I still be able to transplant and do I need to flip to 12/12?
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Well we have established that it is indeed an auto, so no 12/12 lighting needed. Keep it on the current lighting schedule. Still might be a good idea to transplant it though.
Cintetik said:
I flushed it last night with pH’d water (10 gal). Had a high pH runoff till the end. At first PPM run off was around 1250, with a 7.8 pH. When I was done, run off was 380 PPM and 6.8 pH.
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For the future, you don't need to pH your flush water. And you don't measure runoff pH...it's meaningless. Nice job on the flush (you obviously cleared out the soil whether it was necessary or not), but the question is did you feed it after you finished? If not, you have left the plant in a medium with no nutes whatsoever, and that's never a good thing! That would definitely cause all sorts of deficiencies to appear.
 
InTheShed said:
Forget the PPM numbers on the FF chart. They're assuming you own all 13 products. As I recall from when I was using the FF trio, I was around 750-850 PPM (not including the PPM of the water) at the end of veg, and from 900-1100 by harvest. What numbers do you get (subtracting water) with the week 4 feeding?

What 013 said! The rootball is the roots and the dirt they're hanging on to.

A mother plant is a photoperiod plant you keep in veg (never flip to flower) that you cut clones from. It's the mother and the clones are the babies. Cute huh?

And that's why it turned out to be amazing, if not typical! Cint seems to have the same thing going on. ↓

Well we have established that it is indeed an auto, so no 12/12 lighting needed. Keep it on the current lighting schedule. Still might be a good idea to transplant it though.

For the future, you don't need to pH your flush water. And you don't measure runoff pH...it's meaningless. Nice job on the flush (you obviously cleared out the soil whether it was necessary or not), but the question is did you feed it after you finished? If not, you have left the plant in a medium with no nutes whatsoever, and that's never a good thing! That would definitely cause all sorts of deficiencies to appear.
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Shoot, I don’t recall the Week 4 feeding ppms but my water is around 270. I think it was around 1000-1100 maybe more. I’ll check again next feed.

I keep reading that the runoff tells the soil pH so that way I can adjust it if it’s too high or low.

I did feed her, week 4 nutes, 1 gal. However, now that I’ve learned I don’t know shit, lol, I gotta ask if there’s a specific way or proper way to feed/water the plant? I did it through a home made watering jug with holes in the cap, squeezing the jug with medium pressure.
 
Cintetik said:
I keep reading that the runoff tells the soil pH so that way I can adjust it if it’s too high or low.
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You can read all sorts of stuff on the internets! Runoff pH doesn't tell you anything in soil, coco, or peat. Don't bother. The only way test the pH of your soil is with a slurry test. The basic instructions are:
Take soil from about halfway down (I go down the outside of the pot so as not to tear up old roots) and add an equivalent amount of distilled water as grams of soil (10 grams of soil, add 10ml water). If that doesn't make a slurry, use 20ml (or enough to make a stirrable slurry).

Stir it up, wait 15 minutes, stir again. Do that for at least an hour, longer is better, and then put your calibrated pH stick in the water. That's the pH of your medium.

If you need to adjust it, the method will depend on whether it's too high or too low, but neither involve adjusting the pH of your nutrient water.

Cintetik said:
I did feed her, week 4 nutes, 1 gal.
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Oh that's good!
Cintetik said:
However, now that I’ve learned I don’t know shit, lol, I gotta ask if there’s a specific way or proper way to feed/water the plant? I did it through a home made watering jug with holes in the cap, squeezing the jug with medium pressure.
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That's a fine way to water.
 
Also, it's been a week since we saw the plant in question. Take some pics of the whole plant and some closer pics of the troubled leaves so we can have a look.
 
One heaping serving of cold crow, feathers and all, eaten barbaric style.- wipes mouth on curtains.

Ok first my apologies to Cintetik, totally my bad...

If it’s gonna veg for 7 or 8 weeks what’s the freaking purpose of calling it an auto? I know, I know - doesn't require the flip.

But seriously - forget sativa, indica or ruderalis we got new genus it’s a PFAP Photo Flower Auto on its Period; we don’t know what it is.... or how long it runs - but it’s hormonal AF... just plant the mofo seed...

special thanks to Shed & VG!!!
 
013 said:
If it’s gonna veg for 7 or 8 weeks what’s the freaking purpose of calling it an auto? I know, I know - doesn't require the flip.
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And that's the definition of an auto! Not that it's necessarily faster than a photoperiod.
 
InTheShed said:
Also, it's been a week since we saw the plant in question. Take some pics of the whole plant and some closer pics of the troubled leaves so we can have a look.
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You mean it’s been 3 days. I just joined on Monday. Lol. Here’s some new pics:
 

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Oh yeah, I had my days messed up! Are those the same leaves that had the original problem? It doesn't look like it's spreading and the rest of the plant looks healthy and green.
 
I'd say leave it as long as it's got some green on it.
 
@InTheShed Photo one is the same one that had brown spots. It’s now working up the leaf. The rest leaf pics are new damage. Most of the plant looks great. Except the big fan leaves. They’re either got some yellowing or straight up brown/dying. I can’t wait to transplant soon
 
I tend to lose my original large fan leaves once the plant gets older, but being rootbound could create deficiencies in a plant.
 
I'm not sure I understand the difference. Rootbound is the result of being in a container that is too small.
 
InTheShed said:
I'm not sure I understand the difference. Rootbound is the result of being in a container that is too small.
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Lmao! I guess I’m the one who didn’t understand the term. Haha. That makes sense.

So earlier in this thread some of the folks here were going back and forth about up potting an auto. What’s your take on that subject?
 
I have only done it once, but I don't think it slowed it down any. Though I didn't need to score the roots.

Given how long yours has already been in the 3g pot and the fact that it is just showing pistils, I'd say it's probably a good idea.
 
A lot will depend on what it looks like when you peel back the cloth and see if it's a solid mass of roots. Have you thought about how you will get it out of the grow bag?
 
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