Please Help: Plant health issue

Thanks for the shout Sr! I agree that it's not an autoflower at 6 weeks, so the transplant recommendation is a good one. I'd get it into a 7 or 10 gallon pot of quality soil like FFOF or FFHF and not worry about pH. I'm a bit confused by this:
Cintetik said:
feed amount is 25-33% of the soil volume, combination and amounts of nutes are based on fox farm feeding chart. I only use the tiger bloom, big bloom and grow big. Soil in cloth 3 gal pot. Thanks in advance!
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What does feed amount mean? Is that the amount of water you are using, like watering with 1 gallon? Or 25-33% of the recommended nute strength? When I was using the FF trio I fed according to the schedule with every watering, which is actually more than they recommend!
SeniorMoments said:
FF would probably say “ follow the schedule “.
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FF also includes 13 different products in their list, so that's a nice profit margin!


If you aren't feeding to runoff with Big Bloom and the Grow Big, then I'd say it's hungry. If you are, it's possible that the pH of the Kelloggs soil is not properly balanced. Also, is there perlite in that soil for drainage? If not you might be seeing the result of wet feet.

If you can give us some details on the watering process (to runoff or not, how often, etc.) that would be helpful too.
 
InTheShed said:
Thanks for the shout Sr! I agree that it's not an autoflower at 6 weeks, so the transplant recommendation is a good one. I'd get it into a 7 or 10 gallon pot of quality soil like FFOF or FFHF and not worry about pH. I'm a bit confused by this:

What does feed amount mean? Is that the amount of water you are using, like watering with 1 gallon? Or 25-33% of the recommended nute strength? When I was using the FF trio I fed according to the schedule with every watering, which is actually more than they recommend!

FF also includes 13 different products in their list, so that's a nice profit margin!


If you aren't feeding to runoff with Big Bloom and the Grow Big, then I'd say it's hungry. If you are, it's possible that the pH of the Kelloggs soil is not properly balanced. Also, is there perlite in that soil for drainage? If not you might be seeing the result of wet feet.

If you can give us some details on the watering process (to runoff or not, how often, etc.) that would be helpful too.
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Hey. Thank you for the 2 cents. The 25-33% is the amount of fluid based on the amount of soil. So if I have 3 gallons of soil, I feed with a 25-33% volume of fluid based on the 3 gal of soil (so 3/4 to 1 gal of fluid).

Now, as far as proper watering and feeding, I only learned the proper ways and the schedule for nutes merely 2 weeks ago. So the first 4 weeks were haphazardly done. I now feed to runoff.

There seems to be some perlite in the soil but from what I see in other peoples pics is they have ton of perlite in their buckets. What perlite to soil ratio should I have?
 
SoGnotSOG321 said:
No. I'm sorry I wasn't clear about responding to Senior, their advice seems reasonable and upsize at least twice the size you had or close as possible if not larger. Try not to go any smaller. Use a spray bottle and mist the rootball then use some rootone (or another root enhancer) on the rootball. Be gentle.
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This seems like some professional rocket science shit. I don’t want to kill my plant. Lol
 
013 said:
The part about you heard it or was told that it would flower at 8 weeks.... thats how long it takes to flower once it has been vegged and then flipped to flower....

drop a photoperiods bean... veg until you build big frame (6 to 8 weeks) then flip to flower and run 8 to 10 weeks until trichs are ready.... total run time seed to harvest 14 to 18 weeks

drop an auto bean goes from seed to harvest in 8 weeks

Autos don’t need to be upcanned multiple times - it can stunt a plant, but that’s mostly when an auto is small... your plant is healthy so slim chance of stunting it. But at 6 weeks an auto would already be in flower but it’s not - so that tells us it’s not an autoflower. It’s a photo and responds well to upcans.

What Mocha said from the start still applies rootbound and hungry. That soil has nutes in it but nutes for tomatos or houseplants are different from weed nutes...different NPK ratios. I know you’ve got the FF bottle nutes too. I’m still saying upcan to bigger container with more soil since you’ve got about 10 to 12 weeks left to go. 3 gallons of soil might work for an auto but that’s a photo.

it really sucks to start flowering a big plant and realize 3 weeks in that a 5 gallon bucket they been cruising in for several weeks is too small. Been there - done that.

upcan to bigger bag 8 to 12 gallons is good, put plant on riser and slide old bag down, gently score the rootball with a knife on edges and put in its new home. Need to water differently just a cup on top of old rootball - the rest goes on outer perimeter to tease roots outward.

that’s my 2 cents - but please consider other opinions
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The seed seller states that the plant is autoflower and feminized and starts flowering 8 weeks from planting. It’s on their website in the description for the plant. I also planted it in the 3 gal as soon as it sprouted. I heard that it slows the growth due to too much soil and not enough O2. That might be why it hasn’t flowered yet?
 
Cintetik said:
The seed seller states that the plant is autoflower and feminized and starts flowering 8 weeks from planting. It’s on their website in the description for the plant. I also planted it in the 3 gal as soon as it sprouted. I heard that it slows the growth due to too much soil and not enough O2. That might be why it hasn’t flowered yet?
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Do you have a timer on your lights ?
What is Your light schedule now ?
18 hrs of light and 6 of dark ??
 
Are you watering when the pot feels really light? Every x days?

Ideally, plants that haven't started flowering yet need a good wet/dry cycle to promote root growth and nutrient uptake, so it's best to let the pot get really light before watering again. This changes in flower when it's better to water a day sooner than you do in veg.

Are you feeding it with the week 4 amounts on the FF schedule?

I haven't seen autos that run 56 days before showing pistils, but if that's what the breeder says, then you're still on target. That said, if this is truly an auto, it's certainly big enough to transplant without being afraid of shocking it into flower. Transplanting is easiest to do with mostly dry soil.

If you do, go with the inverse sandcastle method, where you fill the new pot with your soil/perlite mix around a pot of the exact size of the the old one (or even use the old one to make the hole), creating the negative image of the pot in the new soil. Then you can peel down the existing pot and slide the rootball into the hole, and pack the soil around it. Then water to runoff with full nutes. That's the least damaging way of doing transplants.

Cintetik said:
What perlite to soil ratio should I have?
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I try to run close to 50/50 because more oxygen is better.
 
I haven’t read all the posts so far so don’t grill me if it was already covered...
that Kellogg’s soil is crap in my opinion. I used it outdoors in pots with non cannabis plants and nothing did well in the Kellogg’s. One healthy pepper plant died within days of transplanting into Kellogg’s. It’s basically mulch.
Ocean forest and happy forest work great for store bought bagged soil.
 
Cintetik said:
Yup, 18/6
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Cool . Don’t change your light schedule.
If it really is an auto , then preflower will start soon .
Up potting may slow it down but never the less , it will start flower if auto.
If no change in 2/3 weeks , it’s a photoperiod plant.
The other issue if you give it 2 more weeks of veg and more growth , and it turns out to be a photo ,
after you flip to 12/12 , the plant will just about double in size.
Do you have the room in your grow space ?
Of course there are training methods to help this.
Everyone agree with my take here ?
Should Cintetik start some training after up potting ?
 
CannaFish said:
I haven’t read all the posts so far so don’t grill me if it was already covered...
that Kellogg’s soil is crap in my opinion. I used it outdoors in pots with non cannabis plants and nothing did well in the Kellogg’s. One healthy pepper plant died within days of transplanting into Kellogg’s. It’s basically mulch.
Ocean forest and happy forest work great for store bought bagged soil.
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Thank you for your input. No, it has not been covered too much yet, so no grilling. I only bought the soil for vegetable growing and when I decided to plant my girl, I just used it since I knew nothing of what’s right. Just bought FFOF and larger containers.
 
SeniorMoments said:
Cool . Don’t change your light schedule.
If it really is an auto , then preflower will start soon .
Up potting may slow it down but never the less , it will start flower if auto.
If no change in 2/3 weeks , it’s a photoperiod plant.
The other issue if you give it 2 more weeks of veg and more growth , and it turns out to be a photo ,
after you flip to 12/12 , the plant will just about double in size.
Do you have the room in your grow space ?
Of course there are training methods to help this.
Everyone agree with my take here ?
Should Cintetik start some training after up potting ?
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I’m actually no well equipped with a growing space since initially I wasn’t trying to spend too much money to grow one plant for self consumption. I outfitted my closet but the space can be expanded if I move some stuff around. Currently I’m in a 1.5 x 2 feet space.
 
It's more height that will be the issue with this one if it keeps growing taller and then you flip it to 12/12 (if it's not an auto).
 
Cintetik said:
I’m actually no well equipped with a growing space since initially I wasn’t trying to spend too much money to grow one plant for self consumption. I outfitted my closet but the space can be expanded if I move some stuff around. Currently I’m in a 1.5 x 2 feet space.
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InTheShed has a great tutorial on LowStressTraining , LST , in his signature.
Check it out. Get the good out of that one plant.
 
It's too tall for any LST, but it certainly could be topped and trained to fill the closet if it's a photo, in a similar method to Grand Daddy Black's here and here.
 
Cintetik said:
Thank you for your input. No, it has not been covered too much yet, so no grilling. I only bought the soil for vegetable growing and when I decided to plant my girl, I just used it since I knew nothing of what’s right. Just bought FFOF and larger containers.
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i bet she turns around after transplant. I don't fertilize for a month or so when using ffof.
 
I'd say that plant will definitely need nutes going into FFOF though!
 
InTheShed said:
It's too tall for any LST, but it certainly could be topped and trained to fill the closet if it's a photo, in a similar method to Grand Daddy Black's here and here.
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So how do I top it off and which branches (they all look too small to tie down like GDB) do I anchor down? I’d like to fill out my space and max my crop too. Lol
 
Cintetik said:
Just regular FF trio based on schedule or a larger amount? Also I thought FFOF is heavily fertilized?
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I know growers in FFOF who start adding nutes at the second set of leaves! Stick to week 4 on the FF chart until you either see pistils or flip.
Cintetik said:
So how do I top it off and which branches (they all look too small to tie down like GDB) do I anchor down? I’d like to fill out my space and max my crop too. Lol
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I would say wait on that until you decide if it's an auto or photo.
 
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