Please Help: Plant health issue

I’m going out on a limb to say the seed seller needs a better grip on reality, if a plant vegges for 8 weeks before flowering then it’s not an autoflower. Period.

When the roots of an autoflower finds the limits of the container - then it begins to flower. That might take a while if you’ve got a 150 gallon container but in 3 gallons... I’m not buying it.

what strain is that and who is the breeder?

I‘m not trying to be an asshole - it just comes naturally... I'm kidding - but seriously, something was lost in translation on this one.
 
013 said:
When the roots of an autoflower finds the limits of the container - then it begins to flower.
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Turns out that isn't true. Many growers start autos in solo cups that fill the cup with roots (didn't flower), and I know a grower who grew them in tall homemade pots where the tap root never touched bottom (still flowered).

Autos flower on their own timetable, which is influenced by stress and environment.
 
I’m more than willing to be wrong and be corrected Mr Shed!! I thought the cup deal was bypassed because 99% upcan. I’ve read many times that when it finds the sides or encircles the sides it triggered but yes I understand tricking the tap root could be different than hitting the side walls.

I had planned to do an auto test in 8 inch corrugated drain pipe 8 feet long but digging a 4 foot hole with the backhoe and let roots try to hit bottom.... maybe next year
 
I'm pretty sure that's a bioscience myth from the early days of autoflowers.

Use to be when the taproot hit the bottom of the pot they would flower or some such trigger. Under ideal conditions they will flower when they're genetically programmed to. Under stress they will flower earlier (like mine!).

I'm sure if you did rootopsies on auto flowers you'll find as many variations as you do in photos.

013 said:
Shed - Have you ever heard of an auto that vegged for 8 weeks before flowering?
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As I mentioned ealier...No! But if the breeder actually says 8 weeks of veg then the OP is still in range at 6 weeks.
 
013 said:
excellent... true that! Well I’ve eaten crow before and can handle flesh & feathers if necessary!
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Nah, no crow 13! It's a really common misconception about autos, so unless you've seen it disproven I can see why you would still hold it as true.
 
Cintetik, Please accept my apology.... its not my desire that you should feel slighted or embarrassed. I believe what you said about the breeder and their estimates on time to flower. I’m sure the breeder knows much more than I do. I’m not here to sound like a know it all because I’m not.... it just when you hear statements like we are gonna drive our car from Kansas to Hawaii... it makes me question the validity, that’s all.

Anyway hope you get the problem sorted to your satisfaction, seriously I meant no harm to you or the breeder!

peace out!
 
I'm gonna have to Google map that road trip...
 
013 said:
I’m going out on a limb to say the seed seller needs a better grip on reality, if a plant vegges for 8 weeks before flowering then it’s not an autoflower. Period.

When the roots of an autoflower finds the limits of the container - then it begins to flower. That might take a while if you’ve got a 150 gallon container but in 3 gallons... I’m not buying it.

what strain is that and who is the breeder?

I‘m not trying to be an asshole - it just comes naturally... I'm kidding - but seriously, something was lost in translation on this one.
Click to expand...
I feel ya. I’m not vouching for their info but here’s the link so you can check it out for your self

Magnum Autoflower Feminized

Auto Magnum is a outstanding auto strain offering massive yields, delicious taste and a classic, crystal clear high.
www.marijuana-seeds.nl
 
InTheShed said:
Are you watering when the pot feels really light? Every x days?

Ideally, plants that haven't started flowering yet need a good wet/dry cycle to promote root growth and nutrient uptake, so it's best to let the pot get really light before watering again. This changes in flower when it's better to water a day sooner than you do in veg.

Are you feeding it with the week 4 amounts on the FF schedule?

I haven't seen autos that run 56 days before showing pistils, but if that's what the breeder says, then you're still on target. That said, if this is truly an auto, it's certainly big enough to transplant without being afraid of shocking it into flower. Transplanting is easiest to do with mostly dry soil.

If you do, go with the inverse sandcastle method, where you fill the new pot with your soil/perlite mix around a pot of the exact size of the the old one (or even use the old one to make the hole), creating the negative image of the pot in the new soil. Then you can peel down the existing pot and slide the rootball into the hole, and pack the soil around it. Then water to runoff with full nutes. That's the least damaging way of doing transplants.


I try to run close to 50/50 because more oxygen is better.
Click to expand...

I have a moisture meter so I measure that way and also by weight and top soil dryness. Now, after learning the correct way, every 3-4 days. My wrong soil has mulch in it so it retains moisture which sometimes prolonged the watering to 5 days.

I am feeding it with week 4 amounts since it hasn’t flowered yet.

Im down to transplant but I’m being told other things I gotta do to the root, like scoring it and spraying it down with something. I’m so out of touch with this stuff I’m afraid I’ll kill the plant.
 
013 said:
Cintetik, Please accept my apology.... its not my desire that you should feel slighted or embarrassed. I believe what you said about the breeder and their estimates on time to flower. I’m sure the breeder knows much more than I do. I’m not here to sound like a know it all because I’m not.... it just when you hear statements like we are gonna drive our car from Kansas to Hawaii... it makes me question the validity, that’s all.

Anyway hope you get the problem sorted to your satisfaction, seriously I meant no harm to you or the breeder!

peace out!
Click to expand...
No worries. No harm done. I’
 
Cintetik said:
I have a moisture meter so I measure that way and also by weight and top soil dryness.
Click to expand...
Put the moisture meter in the drawer where all the things we never use go, and water your plant when the pot is almost as light as the day you planted it. Also, feel the bottom to see if it's cool.
Cintetik said:
like scoring it
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Scoring it is a good idea if it's root bound, but you don't need to wet the rootball unless you plant on buying additional products. If it's bound, take a sharp razor blade and cut vertical stripes down the sides about 1/4" deep, every couple of inches all the way around and across the bottom. You will not kill your plant.

For intsance, I cut half the roots off this mother plant with a saw and now it's bushier than ever:
20200905_162123 Root ball shorter.jpg

20200905_162123 Root ball shorter.jpg

Sawing off the bottom third

20200905_162242 Root ball squared.jpg

20200905_162242 Root ball squared.jpg

  • Media owner InTheShed
  • Date added
Mother plant after sawing


Plant it in a good soil like FFOF or FFHF and mix in more perlite if you want faster drainage.
 
Hey, one of the problems for new growers on a forum is information overload from multiple sources and sometimes even conflicting info. You don’t have to upcan or score the roots. But the upcan will help you get a better harvest, scoring the roots just helps move things along

The bit about scoring the roots...if you buy new shrub or ornamental tree for your yard here’s what they recommend.... dig a big hole 4X the container size, add soil conditioner (peat moss) remove the plastic pot, gently scar or slightly cut the roots on rootball at 2 or 3 places on the sides, plant, cover with soil and water in. This upcan & scoring but is an old plant nursery trick.... it works!

This same technique is used on mature plants (not tiny seedlings cuz duh?) your girl is a good sized & healthy plant. By gently scoring the roots we are signaling to the plant to take over its new home. When you water for the first few times after upcan there are 2 seperate batches of soil that are not fused together by roots, pour a cup of water on old rootball to keep feeders going etc but then water perimeter.

After upcan run plant for about 2 or 3 weeks then flip to flower. Weed plants freely build roots in veg cycle but in flower cycle the root development slows or stops and she uses the rootball you’ve alreadry built.

In veg work the wet / dry cycle don’t water every day or every 3 days. Water her and wait for slight leaf wilt - your plant should be able to go 4 to 5 days easy without water - maybe longer. When soil is totally dry she sends fine root hairs out to search for water. Work wet dry cycle in veg but keep soil moist in flower.

I looked at seed sellers site for a second maybe because it’s magnum and the auto sounds cool or is associated with guns to play on the name and they mention the Ruderalis gene .... but flowers after 8 weeks.... and autoflower.... WTF? Anyway ’nuff said!
 
InTheShed said:
Put the moisture meter in the drawer where all the things we never use go, and water your plant when the pot is almost as light as the day you planted it. Also, feel the bottom to see if it's cool.

Scoring it is a good idea if it's root bound, but you don't need to wet the rootball unless you plant on buying additional products. If it's bound, take a sharp razor blade and cut vertical stripes down the sides about 1/4" deep, every couple of inches all the way around and across the bottom. You will not kill your plant.

For intsance, I cut half the roots off this mother plant with a saw and now it's bushier than ever:
20200905_162123 Root ball shorter.jpg

20200905_162123 Root ball shorter.jpg

Sawing off the bottom third

20200905_162242 Root ball squared.jpg

20200905_162242 Root ball squared.jpg

  • Media owner InTheShed
  • Date added
Mother plant after sawing


Plant it in a good soil like FFOF or FFHF and mix in more perlite if you want faster drainage.
Click to expand...
It would be easy if I remember what it weighed when I first planted it. Lol. But I’ll try to gage it based on the after watering weight. What do you mean to feel the bottom for coolness?

So for me to score the root ball, I would have to strip it free of all the old soil, right? Any hints on how to do it right? Lol

also what’s a “mother plant” and can a plant go through more than one flowering cycle?

And do feed PPMs matter? Since I only have the FF trio, per schedule those three do not meet the PPM needed for that week without the additional FF products.
 
No don’t strip nothing - leave dirt in place and if roots are visible then run a razor knife across the outer edges, or cut the bottom of roots off with a saw as per InTheShed’s advice above.

But leave most of the soil attached to the rootball up top, cut the bottom off.

Shit just saw this was for Shed....was afraid op was gonna mutilate her!
 
013 said:
Hey, one of the problems for new growers on a forum is information overload from multiple sources and sometimes even conflicting info. You don’t have to upcan or score the roots. But the upcan will help you get a better harvest, scoring the roots just helps move things along

The bit about scoring the roots...if you buy new shrub or ornamental tree for your yard here’s what they recommend.... dig a big hole 4X the container size, add soil conditioner (peat moss) remove the plastic pot, gently scar or slightly cut the roots on rootball at 2 or 3 places on the sides, plant, cover with soil and water in. This upcan & scoring but is an old plant nursery trick.... it works!

This same technique is used on mature plants (not tiny seedlings cuz duh?) your girl is a good sized & healthy plant. By gently scoring the roots we are signaling to the plant to take over its new home. When you water for the first few times after upcan there are 2 seperate batches of soil that are not fused together by roots, pour a cup of water on old rootball to keep feeders going etc but then water perimeter.

After upcan run plant for about 2 or 3 weeks then flip to flower. Weed plants freely build roots in veg cycle but in flower cycle the root development slows or stops and she uses the rootball you’ve alreadry built.

In veg work the wet / dry cycle don’t water every day or every 3 days. Water her and wait for slight leaf wilt - your plant should be able to go 4 to 5 days easy without water - maybe longer. When soil is totally dry she sends fine root hairs out to search for water. Work wet dry cycle in veg but keep soil moist in flower.

I looked at seed sellers site for a second maybe because it’s magnum and the auto sounds cool or is associated with guns to play on the name and they mention the Ruderalis gene .... but flowers after 8 weeks.... and autoflower.... WTF? Anyway ’nuff said!
Click to expand...
You’re right it is a lot of info for a noob. Circuit overload... Good thing it’s all in writing for later reference. I definitely should of joined here and learned a few things first, then strmarted growing. If all fails I have lots of photo seeds and one more of this strain so I can try again. I just hate waiting since this was my alternative to wasting money on buying weed. Figured if I get an ounce or two off one plant, it would pay off the investment I put into growing it. Now I’m gonna need 2-3 plants to get that return. Lol Glad I joined here though. You peeps have been fantastic.
 
013 said:
No don’t strip nothing - leave dirt in place just run a razor knife across the outer edges of the dirt and rootball.
Click to expand...
Glad I asked. I honestly don’t even know what this “root ball” is or what it looks like. Was gonna google it but if you experts feel like dropping some knowledge on it, I’m all ears...or eyes in this case.
 
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