Plant Alchemy With KNF: Korean Natural Farming And Jadam

Have you ever considered high brix growing?
No, not really interested in buying a kit of stuff, but haven't really looked into it enough to see if it's viable to source stuff on my own. From what I gather it's a lot of high mineral type soil, mostly calcium I'd suspect.

What is the basic concept?
 
I wouldn't buy anything. What I meant was if you figure out how to raise brix, then find your own ingredients as you are doing now, your bugs will go away.

Gimme a day or 2 and I'll write up a summary for you. 1st you need to use your refractometer to see where your at and what your calcium line looks like, then go from there.
 
Ok so what brix really is, is sugar content in the plants sap, and sugar comes from photosynthesis.

Photosynthesis requires light so this is all based on the plant being supplied with good light, so I won't include light in the equation, I will assume that enough is being used. I am also assuming that the environment for growing conditions is optimal. That leaves whats inside the pot.

Minerals are easy as contrary to popular belief, plants don't use a lot of them, so they are pretty easy to add in and I'm assuming you have a good balanced adequate supply of them.

So that leaves NPK and carbon, oxygen, calcium and microbial life. If you water properly with soil that has adequate drainage, oxygen is easy so lets take that off the list. Now we have NPK Ca and microbes.

N comes from organic matter and the atmosphere, again easy stuff and K comes from greensand kelp and fish ferts. More easy stuff so they are off the list.

Now we are down to the big 3. Phosphorus, Calcium, and Carbon.

Carbon comes from atmosphere in the form of CO2, so again, easy stuff.

So now we have the big 2. Calcium and phosphorus. Forget the fact that both are nutrients for a moment and look at their other purposes.

Calcium supplies electricity and your soil runs on electricity, Calcium is an electrolyte. The strongest one in soil.

Humans need electrolytes for the same reason, as we too run on electricity. Without electrolytes we die and so do soil microbes.

Athletes require larger amounts of electrolytes because their bodies work more, so they need more. Simple math.

For microbes to work more to produce all the food from all the above mentioned amendments, they too require more electricity. Again, simple math.

Calcium also conditions the soil to allow better air flow and water flow. Tilth. So you need lots of calcium relatively speaking. More than most are comfortable with.

Now the only thing left is Phosphorus. P is harder because it's so hard to mine.

P is a nutrient but again, lets explore what else it is. P is a dump truck.

It attracts nutrients very similar to a how a chelator does, but it doesn't tie them up like a chelator. It comes in from the soil with food stuck all over it, flows thru the plant and dumps its load, some P gets eaten, and the rest goes back to the soil filled with exudates to be eaten by the microbes, then reloaded by the microbes and cycles round and round endlessly.

Every day the plant grows so every day it eats more so every day it needs a few more dump trucks than it needed the day before. Again, simple math.

When P goes back to the soil it back hauls pure carbon in the form of exudates. The microbes love exudates. Its pure sugar, which is a pure form of carbon, so if you are bringing exudates to the microbes they will gladly mine the really hard to mine P in order to build more dump trucks.

This process goes round and round.

So every lap you need a few more microbes which require a little bit more electricity to mine a little bit more phosphorus to build a few more dump trucks to haul a few more nutrients to create more photosynthesis to create a few more exudates to backhaul a bit more sugar than the previous lap.

When you have done enough laps to create enough sugar being backhauled thru the plants vascular system to get it over 12% sugar 2 things happen.

1 is that the plant is too sweet for pests. They don't have pancreases to process sugar like we do so the excess sugar ferments in their blood turns to alcohol and kills them. They know this so they stay away.

The other thing that occurs is that the plant now has enough sugar to be as healthy as possible. It's immunities are jacked. So it functions better which in turn improves everything and the process starts to snowball. The acceleration causes acceleration.

You now have too much sugar so the microbes eat as much as possible and now what happened to the plant happens to the microbes. They become all they can be and the accelerated acceleration now gets accelerated again. The snowball rolls faster and grows.

All the excess sugar sits in the soil unused. It is now stored. It's called carbon sequestration. Sugar is carbon and you are taking CO2 out of the atmosphere, storing the Carbon in the soil, and releasing the O2 back to atmosphere.

So the trick is starting the process. You need to get the snowball rolling.

There are kits you can buy. We all know of the famous one, and they work fantastic but they are based around spraying calcium on the leaves to boost electrolytes. Foliar sprays.

And around feeding sugar to the microbes to boost them too.

It works well, but it's a hack and phosphorus gets mined to make more dump trucks but in a catch up role not a premeditated preemptive role, so you need to keep priming the pump with foliars and sugar teas to increase it.

I chose the natural way and sprout in flower soil. Used flower soil. All those stored exudates we just talked about are stored in that soil and there are dump trucks parked all over, so you get ahead of the curve and the snowball starts to roll on it's own from Day 1 of sprout.

Microbes are easy. Oxygen is easy.Calcium is easy. It's P that is hard, but once the dump trucks are rolling and filled with sugar P becomes easy as microbes love more dump trucks. They will build as many as it takes to constantly haul all their poop to the plant.

High brix is all about Oxygen, Carbon, Phosphorus, Calcium, and beneficial aerobic microbes.

So here is the really cool part. So cool and it's a free gift from a guy that loves to tell you things but in a very strange way. You must decipher his puzzling delivery.

It's from The Rev. His soil recipe in his 1st book IS a recipe for unlimited high brix.

By unlimited I mean that your brix just keeps climbing every lap. I regularly see 21 and 22, and my best so far is from an old school purple kush my buddy has perpetuated from clone since 1990 and it photosynthesizes better than any other plant I have seen. I got a 26 once with it.

Brix is strain dependant too, as some strains simply don't have it in their DNA to brix that high, they just can't photosynthesize enough, but they can all get to 18 no problem.

Nitrogen requires massive amounts of water to be assimilated and that much water chokes off air, so over nitrification crashes brix. When you hear or read that bugs love nitrogen, and plant tissue high in nitrogen attracts bugs, what it really means is bugs love low brix.

Synthetic fertilizers don't require soil biology so the plant won't produce exudates, resulting in high brix being impossible in a practical sense. Synthetics attract bugs.

In a lab with lots of costly inputs it can be done but it's hard and expensive, and will never snowball so it needs to be primed non stop.

Carbon, Phosphorus, Calcium, Oxygen, and microbes. When I say microbes I mean myco fungii too. You need both. Myco manages the microbes for the plant. Myco lives in the dark so it can't photosynthesize sugars, so the plant pays myco with sugar to manage the operation.

So look at Rev's recipes, then sub in your own home grown ingredients and see where it goes. That way you can get to high brix but stay your course to accomplish your goal.

If you have to prime the pump, and you will from time to time until you get good at it, have some KNF/Jadam primers ready.

Calcium boosters, soil sugars, and aerobic, not anaerobic microbe solutions. I use EWC for my microbe tea solutions.

Microbes are like earth worms. Once they fill the pot to their preferred population they become self regulating in population density so at that point you just need to make them stronger. Sugar does that.

So a soil primer of sugar will get the snowball rolling but you can't sugar your soil more than once in veg and once in flower or the microbes get lazy and stop mining P.

If you pour the sugar in then they don't need dump trucks and P crashes, then brix.

@Vegan4life has some tricks that would be right up your alley, and vica-versa. You 2 should talk. What you 2 do is above my pay grade but collectively I bet you could get that proverbial letter that we laughed about earlier sent to me quicker😎
 
Wow. Thanks Gee.

That makes more sense than I had thought about brix. I read the high brix thread and my reaction was basically, "they spray sugar on their leaves and then they measure the leaves and somehow magically find that the leaves are high in sugar." Well, duh.

But I see now that that's the jumpstart you're talking about but in their case because they're coming at it through the backdoor they have to continually supply it. It's kind of a forced brix level. Still high and gets the job done, but not really a natural process.

Kind of like synthetics as nutes. Gets the job done but you're doing to the plant rather than working with it or really just providing optimal conditions and getting out of the way to let it do its thing.

Your explanation makes me want to explore it more. Damn you. Another rabbit hole to drop into. ;)

I'll have to think on this some. Lots of concepts that make sense when I read them but I don't fully understand the depths of it so I'll have to reread and reread to get it.

I'm wondering if I've stumbled into the neighborhood with the new top dressing I've recently started. I'm now regularly adding castings (ca and microbes), comfrey for NPK, s. nettle for the rest of the micronutrients esp cal, Mag and sulfur, as well as dried flowers (P) and Alfalfa (K) though I'm going to switch that out for pumpkin after this fall's harvest. And I see that The Rev suggests pumpkin seeds for K which might even be better than the rind itself, as well as malted barley for growth hormones and faster finishing.

The new topdress also has neem and karanja for bugs but maybe that's only needed in early veg until the snowball gets rolling.

I'm also thinking that as good as the SIP is at growing plants, maybe incorporating a wet/dry cycle with it might be beneficial. That one would be hard for me given the incredible difference those pots have made in my plants.

I don't keep the reservoir filled every day like some do. Rather I just give them what they'll drink in a day or two so maybe I'm already part way there.

Lots to roll around in my brain but if I can get a handle on it I'd like to.

:thanks:
 
Wow. Thanks Gee.

That makes more sense than I had thought about brix. I read the high brix thread and my reaction was basically, "they spray sugar on their leaves and then they measure the leaves and somehow magically find that the leaves are high in sugar." Well, duh.

But I see now that that's the jumpstart you're talking about but in their case because they're coming at it through the backdoor they have to continually supply it. It's kind of a forced brix level. Still high and gets the job done, but not really a natural process.

Kind of like synthetics as nutes. Gets the job done but you're doing to the plant rather than working with it or really just providing optimal conditions and getting out of the way to let it do its thing.
I can't knock what Doc has done.

Is it a commercial model? sure it is, but it's a high brix product and it works really well. It's brix for those who just want to happily follow the instructions and you get a wicked good product without bugs.

It's no more costly that synthetics so it's not like he is gouging. It's good stuff.

And from what I see his support is top notch.
Your explanation makes me want to explore it more. Damn you. Another rabbit hole to drop into. ;)
Wascally Wabbits! huhuhuhuhuh....
I'll have to think on this some. Lots of concepts that make sense when I read them but I don't fully understand the depths of it so I'll have to reread and reread to get it.
As you think on it watch Rabenberg's videos again. Soilworks LLC on youtube.

The long ones at the seminars where he uses the white board to tell what both plants and soil are made of.

Take notes or screen shots on the percentages of what good soil is and what a plant is made of.

Those are your goals for a good solid base.
I'm wondering if I've stumbled into the neighborhood with the new top dressing I've recently started. I've now just started to regularly adding castings (ca and microbes) as well as dried flowers (P) and Alfalfa (K) though I'm going to switch that out for pumpkin after this fall's harvest. And I see that The Rev suggests pumpkin seeds for K which might even be better than the rind itself.
I'm a plant based health junkie so trust me when I say, pumpkin is one of the best foods there is. If you don't believe me, trust your worms. Cut a slab and lay it in the bin and watch how quick it disappears.

The seeds are the prime part. Sprout them and harvest the sprouts and it's even better.
The new topdress also has neem and karanja for bugs but maybe that's only needed in early veg until the snowball gets rolling.
Bugs tend to leave young plants alone in organics as long as the soil isn't soggy.
I'm also thinking that as good as the SIP is at growing plants, maybe incorporating a wet/dry cycle with it might be beneficial. That one would be hard for me given the incredible difference those pots have made in my plants.
I haven't tried SIPS yet but I bet that if you filled your res via top watering good things would happen. Let it dry before refilling to avoid sludge. Thats how Rev does it.
I don't keep the reservoir filled every day like some do. Rather I just give them what they'll drink in a day or two so maybe I'm already part way there.

Lots to roll around in my brain but if I can get a handle on it I'd like to.
Talk with @Vegan4life. He knows nutrition and uses sprouts and such already. He had never heard of brix until I mentioned it and when he got a refractometer he found most of his ways were already turning high brix. The few plants he had that were just under 13 had bugs but nothing on the high brix plants in the same room beside the infested ones.

You and V4L share a lot of commonalities in your growing philosophies. I think you could learn from each other.

Thomas M. Dykstra .... look him up. He has info on what pests enjoy what brix levels.

Thrips means your close to high brix. I get them at 11-12 dropping down from high brix, and from what I have read they prefer a minimum of 9.

Also, if you get it all correct and brix still doesn't hit 13 or higher, your problem is usually one of the things I assumed, as in adequate light or proper environment or soggy soil.

You need to fix calcium 1st, so an analog refractometer, not the fancy digital ones, will tell you calciums state. Start there.

If the line that indicates your brix level in the refractometer is crisp then calcium is low, if it's fuzzy so you have to approximate what it reads, calcium is good.

Calcium needs to be fixed 1st or you don't have enough electricity and the microbes are sluggish and nothing will work. They need Gatorade to boost electrolyte🤣. (Don't pour Gatorade in, that was a joke)

Analog refractometers are cheap. Usually about 25 dollars.
 
Compost Pile

I kicked off my first official compost pile this weekend. I've had piles of compost in the past but they've pretty much been an afterthought. They still produced reasonable compost but certainly could have been better. I usually do a tumbler batch over winter so I suppose I have some background but that's small batch (probably 35-45 gallons finished).

So, this year I'm paying special attention. I actually started last fall with the mowing of the leaves, and then I left them chopped up on the lawn over winter. Whatever didn't break down got raked up this spring and put in a big pile. Those are my browns.

I've now had the first mowing of the lawn and used what grass clippings I had as my greens to mix with some of the browns to start things off. I'll need a few more mowings to get it all cooking but I have at least got it started.

I'll monitor the moisture levels and temperatures and plan on turning it probably weekly as we go through the next few months and I expect it to be finished before summer is.

I'm going to cover it to protect from rain, and will install a vent pipe through the middle to increase air flow to the heart of the pile. I did that to my auxiliary compost barrel where I compost the extra stuff I don't want in my worm bin like citrus and onions, etc., and I haven't emptied that barrel since I started it probably 10-15 years ago. I don't add a ton of stuff to it but the level never seems to go up.

The compost produced will be used as an important part of my mix along with my castings so I want them to be high quality.
 
I closed out my Jadam Liquid Fertilizer (JLF) barrel today, and thought I'd share some lessons learned.

First, this is some really good stuff and the plants seem to really like it. Also, it's super easy to make as all you do is put some chopped up plant matter and some microbes (like those found in leaf mold, compost or worm castings) into some water and let the microbes break it down for you over time. I usually add new microbes and a bit of potato flakes (for food to help them multiply) to the barrel a couple of days before I'm going to fertigate.

A little goes a long way as you're supposed to dilute it at least 1:20 with water before giving it to your plants. The 20 gallon (80 L) barrel I used was way overkill. Next year I'll use a 5 gallon (20 L) bucket which will be plenty for me, I'm sure.

The best plants to use for fertilizer are the super, or dynamic, accumulators. If you want a simple, one stop shop version, dandelion generally has the most balanced nutrient profile and is a great choice as everyone seems to have easy access to them in the spring.

A better option is to use one one the combinations shown earlier in the thread. Properly chosen, the combos will have higher levels of almost all of the various nutrients. They're also much easier to harvest in quantity but that's not all that important for a small, 5 gal bucket.

My choice next year will likely be stinging nettle and horsetail fern early and then I'll add comfrey as the season goes on. I'll also likely add some aloe and seaweed to the mix.

One thing I do to try to keep the concentration of the mix steady is I never add new material directly to the bucket. Rather I add it to another bucket then cover it with water and then add that to the JLF bucket. This way helps me add a similar amount of water to plant material each time.

I'd encourage anyone interested in natural organic gardening to give it a try (I'm looking at you @StoneOtter) . It's much easier than a compost pile and fits in a small area in your garden. The downside is the smell. Mine was like a pickled horse barn smell, but that's really only an issue for the short time you have the cover off for adding new water and material, or scooping out some for your watering can.
It’s funny how the more I learn from you guys the more I realize it’s almost complete luck that I’ve been doing so well for so long :) almost everything I’ve seen from you I’ve been just doing based on what grandpa taught and experimentation I’ve done. Only thing you’ve recently mentioned that I don’t do is isolate the strain specific scraps for compost, all indica dominant and sativa dominant scraps go into my garden pile almost equally. Never made dandelion extracts either but a hella ton of them end up in garden pile as well. Other yard wastes mostly go into poo pile, and limited amounts of leaves in garden pile. Other favorite hobby of gramps was woodworking which he passed on to me so sawdust and shavings end up in piles too.
 
Compost Pile

I kicked off my first official compost pile this weekend. I've had piles of compost in the past but they've pretty much been an afterthought. They still produced reasonable compost but certainly could have been better. I usually do a tumbler batch over winter so I suppose I have some background but that's small batch (probably 35-45 gallons finished).

So, this year I'm paying special attention. I actually started last fall with the mowing of the leaves, and then I left them chopped up on the lawn over winter. Whatever didn't break down got raked up this spring and put in a big pile. Those are my browns.

I've now had the first mowing of the lawn and used what grass clippings I had as my greens to mix with some of the browns to start things off. I'll need a few more mowings to get it all cooking but I have at least got it started.

I'll monitor the moisture levels and temperatures and plan on turning it probably weekly as we go through the next few months and I expect it to be finished before summer is.

I'm going to cover it to protect from rain, and will install a vent pipe through the middle to increase air flow to the heart of the pile. I did that to my auxiliary compost barrel where I compost the extra stuff I don't want in my worm bin like citrus and onions, etc., and I haven't emptied that barrel since I started it probably 10-15 years ago. I don't add a ton of stuff to it but the level never seems to go up.

The compost produced will be used as an important part of my mix along with my castings so I want them to be high quality.
Awesome, I limit citrus now based on new knowledge and avoid grass clippings for most part bc mostly weeds and I typically rake most leaves put probably 80% in manure pile and just enough in garden pile and remainder mulched in mower over the weeds/grass. The biggest pain for me is collecting dandelions for garden pile. Poo pile is about 7 yr old now so no need to worry about bad bacteria at bottom but still reserve for landscape outside of garden, flower beds and giving away for those same purposes.
 
Compost Pile

I kicked off my first official compost pile this weekend. I've had piles of compost in the past but they've pretty much been an afterthought. They still produced reasonable compost but certainly could have been better. I usually do a tumbler batch over winter so I suppose I have some background but that's small batch (probably 35-45 gallons finished).

So, this year I'm paying special attention. I actually started last fall with the mowing of the leaves, and then I left them chopped up on the lawn over winter. Whatever didn't break down got raked up this spring and put in a big pile. Those are my browns.

I've now had the first mowing of the lawn and used what grass clippings I had as my greens to mix with some of the browns to start things off. I'll need a few more mowings to get it all cooking but I have at least got it started.

I'll monitor the moisture levels and temperatures and plan on turning it probably weekly as we go through the next few months and I expect it to be finished before summer is.

I'm going to cover it to protect from rain, and will install a vent pipe through the middle to increase air flow to the heart of the pile. I did that to my auxiliary compost barrel where I compost the extra stuff I don't want in my worm bin like citrus and onions, etc., and I haven't emptied that barrel since I started it probably 10-15 years ago. I don't add a ton of stuff to it but the level never seems to go up.

The compost produced will be used as an important part of my mix along with my castings so I want them to be high quality.
I've been having an issue getting the temperature up in my compost pile which I think is N related. An effective pile will have something like a 30:1 carbon:nitrogen ratio but each of your ingredients have their own ratio so a good rough estimate is equal amounts of greens and browns by volume if you're using standard inputs.

My browns are the pile I gathered from spring cleanup, so mostly leaves, dead grass, twigs and acorn caps, that sort of thing, and my greens mostly lawn clippings. My brown pile is way bigger than the volume of grass clippings I've been able to gather, even by adding new clippings every couple of weeks so I clearly didn't estimate that very well.

I would have been better off just using a small portion of the brown pile to match what I was able to generate from weekly clippings and put that combination into a new, smaller and active pile rather than what I have now. Oh well, live and learn. I'll do it that way next year.

So I got some blood meal and sprinkled some of that throughout the pile when I turned it this weekend but I have no idea how much one would use per square foot of pile. I used 3 tablespoons of the meal sprinkled across each layer when I was turning it.

The pile does generate some heat though. I have aeration tubes in the pile in an upside-down "T" formation with a PVC connector at the top to allow for air flow when I cover it with a tarp and that connector was deformed from the heat the first week.

I'm in no rush as I plan on screening and using the compost this fall so I don't need 18 day compost, but on the other hand I would like to get the pile to heat up and 140-160* F seems like the target and I'm only getting to about 20* over ambient so far.
 
I've been having an issue getting the temperature up in my compost pile which I think is N related. An effective pile will have something like a 30:1 carbon:nitrogen ratio but each of your ingredients have their own ratio so a good rough estimate is equal amounts of greens and browns by volume if you're using standard inputs.

My browns are the pile I gathered from spring cleanup, so mostly leaves, dead grass, twigs and acorn caps, that sort of thing, and my greens mostly lawn clippings. My brown pile is way bigger than the volume of grass clippings I've been able to gather, even by adding new clippings every couple of weeks so I clearly didn't estimate that very well.

I would have been better off just using a small portion of the brown pile to match what I was able to generate from weekly clippings and put that combination into a new, smaller and active pile rather than what I have now. Oh well, live and learn. I'll do it that way next year.

So I got some blood meal and sprinkled some of that throughout the pile when I turned it this weekend but I have no idea how much one would use per square foot of pile. I used 3 tablespoons of the meal sprinkled across each layer when I was turning it.

The pile does generate some heat though. I have aeration tubes in the pile in an upside-down "T" formation with a PVC connector at the top to allow for air flow when I cover it with a tarp and that connector was deformed from the heat the first week.

I'm in no rush as I plan on screening and using the compost this fall so I don't need 18 day compost, but on the other hand I would like to get the pile to heat up and 140-160* F seems like the target and I'm only getting to about 20* over ambient so far.
Moisture content is vital too, if it's too dry then nitrogen sources will vent to atmosphere instead of composting, and your left with all browns, just as leaving grass clippings on the sidewalk in the sun will turn them brown.
 
I like to have as moist as a wrung out sponge which seems to be a good standard for many things organic, and I add water to the pile as I turn it every week or two.

I am getting heat in pockets of the pile, just not very broadly. But it'll get there. There's a whole contingent of composters that prefer cooler longer composting to preserve more of the elements but you don't kill weed seeds and the nasties if done that way, so maybe some combination of the two is what I'll end up with.

But compost happens whether we try to assist or not.
 
For the past few months I have mostly switched my nutes from my Jadam/KNF concoctions over to my crumbles enhanced with some other things as a top dress and my plants generally look better, nice healthy green without deficiencies. I'm starting to chase higher brix levels and my plants are stuck below the magic 12 line so there is still work to be done.

Every week I top dress with 1t/G of my top dress mix along with 3t/G of my worm castings and mist it in. I'm also giving dolo rain water from the top as needed, and, although I'm using SIP containers, I'm not using the reservoir feature for now until I get brix levels up and then I'll try to figure out a way to re-engage it.

@Gee64 tells us that, in addition to a proper environment with good lighting, there are five key things to high brix, namely that there is enough air and carbon in the soil for microbes to break it down, enough Ca to provide the "electric current" to produce life and growth, and sufficient P in the mix to sustain the movement of food to the plant and then sugars back down to the roots.

I think I have all but the P component going for me already. I seem to have enough for the plants that I'm not showing any deficiencies but not enough surplus to do the other job. Maybe. But that's my working hypothesis.

So this year I've been collecting spent flower heads from things like peony and daylily with the plan to dry them down into a crumble and use that over the course of a year to increase the P in my soil mix and my worm bins.

I started counting the flower heads I'm taking each day to get an idea of the volume I'll produce and what that will dry down to, and hoped to get 500 at a minimum, though I'll probably at least triple that number when all is said and done. I'm kind of surprised as my flowering plants aren't all that big and I haven't fed them at all over the years. I have 4 daylily plants, each about 2x2' and will be dividing them up this fall to increase my harvests.

Unfortunately we had some very humid, rainy weather at the peak of flower production and I lost a bunch to mold, so I'll add those to the worm bin and do a better job at drying the flowers out before storage in the future.

So for now I broke down and got some bone meal and will use that as an amendment to supplement the flower crumble I had planned on for that component.
 
For the past few months I have mostly switched my nutes from my Jadam/KNF concoctions over to my crumbles enhanced with some other things as a top dress and my plants generally look better, nice healthy green without deficiencies. I'm starting to chase higher brix levels and my plants are stuck below the magic 12 line so there is still work to be done.

Every week I top dress with 1t/G of my top dress mix along with 3t/G of my worm castings and mist it in. I'm also giving dolo rain water from the top as needed, and, although I'm using SIP containers, I'm not using the reservoir feature for now until I get brix levels up and then I'll try to figure out a way to re-engage it.

@Gee64 tells us that, in addition to a proper environment with good lighting, there are five key things to high brix, namely that there is enough air and carbon in the soil for microbes to break it down, enough Ca to provide the "electric current" to produce life and growth, and sufficient P in the mix to sustain the movement of food to the plant and then sugars back down to the roots.

I think I have all but the P component going for me already. I seem to have enough for the plants that I'm not showing any deficiencies but not enough surplus to do the other job. Maybe. But that's my working hypothesis.

So this year I've been collecting spent flower heads from things like peony and daylily with the plan to dry them down into a crumble and use that over the course of a year to increase the P in my soil mix and my worm bins.

I started counting the flower heads I'm taking each day to get an idea of the volume I'll produce and what that will dry down to, and hoped to get 500 at a minimum, though I'll probably at least triple that number when all is said and done. I'm kind of surprised as my flowering plants aren't all that big and I haven't fed them at all over the years. I have 4 daylily plants, each about 2x2' and will be dividing them up this fall to increase my harvests.

Unfortunately we had some very humid, rainy weather at the peak of flower production and I lost a bunch to mold, so I'll add those to the worm bin and do a better job at drying the flowers out before storage in the future.

So for now I broke down and got some bone meal and will use that as an amendment to supplement the flower crumble I had planned on for that component.
You da man, Azi!
It takes time and alot of patience to grow organically. Your jounals must be full of notes.
I over-ordered my original Remo order and the second one will probably expire.

You mention plants that I find hard to buy and find the seeds to grow it.

I retire in 5 years so please be alive and kicking by then, my friend. :rofl:

Keep up the good work!:thumb:
 
You mention plants that I find hard to buy and find the seeds to grow it.
My main three input plants are comfrey, nettle and flowers.

Comfrey should be acquired as a root cutting to be sure you get the right one. Easily available on line.

Stinging Nettle seeds are available on line from many herb sites. I think I paid like $2 for the seed packet I got.

Flowers are just big showy flowers like peony or daylily available at any garden store if you don't want to go digging up the wild ones found along many country roads. Gee uses cannabis flowers for his but mine go to other things.

Not hard at all! :thumb:
 
Highya Azimuth,

I'm not as efficient minded as you are. I use a compost pile, but it doesn't heat up much. Still, I have plenty of compost. A work in progress. I turn it occasionally, add water the same, and continually add organic matter. I also add bone and blood meal (to garden) when needed. I also add leftover microbes after giving the bulk of them to the garden. Good luck with your endeavors! Happy Smokin'
 
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