PK Perpetual Grow Journal 2020

Dusted said:
I use waterbed liners for containment. Got a single for the small grow and a king size for the big grow
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There you go! Far cheaper than a $200 tray!
 
Dusted said:
I use waterbed liners for containment. Got a single for the small grow and a king size for the big grow
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got a pic to show me what you mean. lol
 
Stltoed said:
Its just so much easier. They are usually bigger. Even my little 2 pot is 50 gallons, so the nutrients will last quite a while. The res makes taking measurements easier, adding and removing nutrient water easier. My Silica is a bit of a beast. I can isolate the res, add the Silica then mix it with the semi contaminated water in the buckets without any problems. The res is a huge asset.

Now, you stated you were worried about about leaks since your living in an apartment. This alone would be a red flag for me. I'd look into a large tray that at the least heald as much water as was in my system. Getting sued would suck
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i rebuilt my 90 gallon fish tank and it hasn't leaked for the last 5 years. I think i should be fine on the leaking part with the plumbing.
 
PK said:
i rebuilt my 90 gallon fish tank and it hasn't leaked for the last 5 years. I think i should be fine on the leaking part with the plumbing.
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If your cool with it then maybe hydro is your future.
 
how do you adjust the water environments, @Dusted ?
 
ok, so for real the topup worked and the plants are doing as they should. I just adjusted the ph and tried for 5.8 but got 5.6
 
im trying to get some seeds from true north but the coupon code isn't working?
  • Coupon code "420 magazine" is not valid.
 
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what do you guys think? I just ordered these babies down. I will be doing these in soil :laughtwo:
 
Try 420mag

PK said:
how do you adjust the water environments, @Dusted ?
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About .25 mL of concentrated sulphuric acid a day. I also add 1 g of anhydrous citric acid to the reservoir daily. That gives me a pH swing from 5.6 to 6.0 when the bugs eat the citric acid
 
Dusted said:
Try 420mag


About .25 mL of concentrated sulphuric acid a day. I also add 1 g of anhydrous citric acid to the reservoir daily. That gives me a pH swing from 5.6 to 6.0 when the bugs eat the citric acid
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not valid coupan, it dosnt seem they are a member.
nice! looks like a fluval filter type
 
PK said:
not valid coupan, it dosnt seem they are a member.
nice! looks like a fluval filter type
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4M20 is the code
 
PK said:
i already bought it thinking that they are not an actual sponsor
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Quite alright. You got the better discount
 
PK said:
how can you even figure it need more cal mag? is it a deficiency like the rusted areas on the leaves?
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Im gonna take the scenic route on this one..

You can start to figure deficiencies and excesses by the location of the issue on the plant. This will help by telling you its an immobile or mobile nutrient. A mobile nutrient will show in the larger older leaves,, an immobile nute will show at the top in the new leaves. Some nutes are considered semi mobile, like Boron if memory serves. From that you can look at a list of elements and descriptions of what they look like when theres a problem. From all that you can see the most likely causes. Bring in the history of what you have been feeding and it should be kinda clear what should be done. Some elements can take weeks to show a physical manifestation which means the plant has had issues for a while, and may take a while to fix. There is a lot to this above, there are books I can recommend that teach you this method. But its important to learn so you aren't relying on someone who knows less than you. Its surprising how many dont use this method and just guess. Don't rely of the pretty drawings out there that show 50 different messed up leaves and their issues. The leaves in reality rarely look like that. Learn the mobile, immobile way to diagnose problems

A lot of problems will never repair the damage done. Dont expect it. Messed up leaves are gonna be messed up leaves. You need to watch the plant. New growth issues (immobile) are easy to track because you constantly have a new supply of leaves. Either they are jacked up or they're good and the problem has basically been solved.

A Calcium issue is super common in hydro. Its easy to spot because its almost expected. If you see crunchy tips on the big leaves in hydro its very possibly a Calmag thing. Just treat the plant for a Calmag issue if your not giving Calmag, or are using a partial dose to make room for other nutes. In a pinch a foliar spray is the fastest way to overturn the problem, and it won't effect your res. I will say the different Calcium products will add to different values to the PPMs Calimagic is an amazing product. It works great and I truly love it, but its like giving a reservoir a double Whopper with cheese. It stacks up the PPMs big time. I like Botanicares Calmag. Its effective, and doesn't take up much room on the PPM scale.

Another popular issue is Nitrogen toxicity in hydro. Its an excess of Nitrogen and will completely disrupt your flower period. Its easy to see the "tell" from this issue. The leaves are very dark, and the tip, .5-.75", of the big leaves will point straight down. It looks pretty strange... but not all the leaves will do it. Maybe only a couple. If you see these issues its better to spend a week flushing, than expecting it go away. Some strains are very sensitive to Nitro in flower and will require a Nitrogen free Calmag. Some Calmags are loaded with the stuff.

Hope this helps
 
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