At least the Northern Lights gave you enough bud for a couple of lunch breaks Josh. What exactly happened to the 6 OZs of Holy Grail Kush? I haven't had a harvest big enough to over pack even one jar yet so I'm ignorant to what that might cause.
Perpetual Pics
- Thread starter josh223
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Probably fungus growing on the buds inside the jars because they were prematurely put into the jars, the moisture came out and probably accelerated the fungus growth. This renders the buds basically UN-useable. I have learned this the hard way, and now I dry my buds out a little extra initially. I am not a fan of boveda packs. Just my two cents 
Sorry to hear about it Josh, that is a real bummer. I wish you nothing but the best. I hope you get to enjoy some of those fine herbs you grow. I can't wait to see you grow some more in the new crib
Sorry to hear about it Josh, that is a real bummer. I wish you nothing but the best. I hope you get to enjoy some of those fine herbs you grow. I can't wait to see you grow some more in the new crib
Was your bud jar mishap with or without Boveda packs?
Sorry for your loss.
Sorry for your loss.
- Thread starter
- #224
josh223
Well-Known Member
I was using Ball brand pint size jars. Buds were trimmed and dried in a rack like before until the stems nearly snap. I checked the jars hear and there. I pulled some out the other day and the buds seemed wet. I thought that's not good so I left all the jars open for around 36 hrs. Everything seemed fine. I checked on them the next day and could visually see mold growing.
I believe what happened was about halfway down some of the jars, they were packed so tight, that they sealed any moisture from escaping. I read the other day that Washington State allows moldy bud to be made into oil. I may resort to that in the future. Then again I may not.
I believe what happened was about halfway down some of the jars, they were packed so tight, that they sealed any moisture from escaping. I read the other day that Washington State allows moldy bud to be made into oil. I may resort to that in the future. Then again I may not.
Josh I know your not new to this, you're more experienced than I am. Did you burp the jars everyday for a week?
Lurch Farmer
Well-Known Member
sorry for your loss.
I had a few runs go bad due to something
there are 2 methodes that I use to try to save a moldy harvest water cure and iso hash.
I had a few runs go bad due to something
there are 2 methodes that I use to try to save a moldy harvest water cure and iso hash.
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- #227
josh223
Well-Known Member
I'm only two days from initiating flowering with this batch of clones.
I had 100% success rate this go around. I'm going to keep using the airstones in the cloner reservoir. I was able to salvage my NL x SK1. My Purple Kush mother isn't looking too hot. I also have some clones off of her to reestablish with.
This house is taking up all my time. I have the flowering tent set up (mostly).
I just need to hook up the ducting for the ventilation. I wanted to show a pic of how I'm venting to the exterior. I saw this about two years ago on this site. Thought I'd pass it along. In a nutshell what I did was cut a piece of plywood to overlap a vinyl sliding window. I then cut a hole a little smaller than the ducting. I bought a black bath towel and used push pins to secure. The, make sure to open the window some, screw the plywood into the studs and header along side the window.
This one, blacks out the window, and second gives me a stealth place to ventilate. Here's what it looks like.
I'm really itching to get to flowering. Finally I'll be able to live up to the title of this thread (the "perpetual" part). I'm really curious to know how this is going to turn out. I've effectively double my watts per square foot by running in the smaller tent. I realise my PAR rating won't change, I'll still get the same amount of canopy penetration. But for some reason I'm thinking this will be better. Guess we'll have to wait and see.
I had 100% success rate this go around. I'm going to keep using the airstones in the cloner reservoir. I was able to salvage my NL x SK1. My Purple Kush mother isn't looking too hot. I also have some clones off of her to reestablish with.
This house is taking up all my time. I have the flowering tent set up (mostly).
I just need to hook up the ducting for the ventilation. I wanted to show a pic of how I'm venting to the exterior. I saw this about two years ago on this site. Thought I'd pass it along. In a nutshell what I did was cut a piece of plywood to overlap a vinyl sliding window. I then cut a hole a little smaller than the ducting. I bought a black bath towel and used push pins to secure. The, make sure to open the window some, screw the plywood into the studs and header along side the window.
This one, blacks out the window, and second gives me a stealth place to ventilate. Here's what it looks like.
I'm really itching to get to flowering. Finally I'll be able to live up to the title of this thread (the "perpetual" part). I'm really curious to know how this is going to turn out. I've effectively double my watts per square foot by running in the smaller tent. I realise my PAR rating won't change, I'll still get the same amount of canopy penetration. But for some reason I'm thinking this will be better. Guess we'll have to wait and see.
- Thread starter
- #228
josh223
Well-Known Member
I've been a busy beaver. Here's what the flowering tent is shaping up to...
Yup, 600 watts in 8 square feet. I've got four former hempy mothers in there along with clones. I've also decided to let the clones veg for a week, hence the Metal Halide bulb.
I also established new mothers and transplanted the new genetics. The large plant in the right corner Smart Pot is my Northern Light Blue mother. She produces nice nugs, but this the weakest of four beans I've germinated. Cloning ability, yield, flower structure---on point. Very low terpene profile and apparent over all cannabinoid content means she's going to the way side.
Added: The Northern Light Blue mother is a lot more than just a large stalk and a few small leaves. I didn't get her canopy in frame when I bent down for the pic.
Yup, 600 watts in 8 square feet. I've got four former hempy mothers in there along with clones. I've also decided to let the clones veg for a week, hence the Metal Halide bulb.
I also established new mothers and transplanted the new genetics. The large plant in the right corner Smart Pot is my Northern Light Blue mother. She produces nice nugs, but this the weakest of four beans I've germinated. Cloning ability, yield, flower structure---on point. Very low terpene profile and apparent over all cannabinoid content means she's going to the way side.
Added: The Northern Light Blue mother is a lot more than just a large stalk and a few small leaves. I didn't get her canopy in frame when I bent down for the pic.
I'm loving it Josh...
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- #230
josh223
Well-Known Member
Looking great buddy!
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- #232
josh223
Well-Known Member
Looking great buddy!
Thanks Lester. I have a question for you. I have that femmed Critical and she's taking off like a rocket. I'm considering possibly breeding her with my Holy Grail Kush. I'm thinking the right phenotype could be superior to Barney's Critical Kush. At any rate, would you think light stress would be the best way to accomplish this and if so, what that'd be 25% chance of passing down a Hermie trait? Is there another or a better way to produce viable male pollen from a female plant?
I would recommend the method of using colloidal silver. Apparently, I have seen multiple members on 420 Magazine that are successful with creating their own feminized seeds through this means.
Most notably: How to Make Feminized Seeds With Colloidal Silver - Sponsored by Intelligent-Gro LED
I plan to attempt to get seeds from my KC-45 clones using the colloidal silver method as well.
Most notably: How to Make Feminized Seeds With Colloidal Silver - Sponsored by Intelligent-Gro LED
I plan to attempt to get seeds from my KC-45 clones using the colloidal silver method as well.
- Thread starter
- #234
josh223
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I've read up on that. Duh...I feel like an idiot. 
All along I was thinking that was only used for self-pollination. Yeah, that would work. I'm going to give that a try. As I currently have $4 in my pocket, it'll have to wait.
Thanks mate!!!
All along I was thinking that was only used for self-pollination. Yeah, that would work. I'm going to give that a try. As I currently have $4 in my pocket, it'll have to wait.Thanks mate!!!
The journal link I sent you is also a current journal.
I believe Cronic also did it and got a bunch of seeds. I think it would be a great idea for a decent price. I can't wait to do my experiment.
Be well, friend!
I believe Cronic also did it and got a bunch of seeds. I think it would be a great idea for a decent price. I can't wait to do my experiment.
Be well, friend!
That first generation seeds produced from the event I don't think would be stable, would need to breed out 2 or 3 generations.
So I wouldn't cross anything precious with the first gen. lol
So I wouldn't cross anything precious with the first gen. lol
- Thread starter
- #237
josh223
Well-Known Member
That's a big journal. I'm multi-tasking at the moment---on the top of page four. Hot damn, I've been pondering for days how to word that question to you. I guess sometimes I overlook the obvious. One of those "Couldn't see the forest through the trees." things.
Thank you for that link. I'm subbed. Looking forward to hours of learning.
Thank you for that link. I'm subbed. Looking forward to hours of learning.
- Thread starter
- #238
josh223
Well-Known Member
Double post @ Les:
So after the "event" back cross those with themselves or try and breed a third "more" stable train in the mix? I know that if you back cross that first gen (F1?) you should get stability, but also some phenos leaning more towards one chromosome contributor or the other.
From what little I've absorbed, a person would want to select the best of the first breeding event, and then self pollinate it at least two generations. Each time the plants with the most desired attributes would be allowed to continue while others are culled. Does that sound somewhat correct?
So after the "event" back cross those with themselves or try and breed a third "more" stable train in the mix? I know that if you back cross that first gen (F1?) you should get stability, but also some phenos leaning more towards one chromosome contributor or the other.
From what little I've absorbed, a person would want to select the best of the first breeding event, and then self pollinate it at least two generations. Each time the plants with the most desired attributes would be allowed to continue while others are culled. Does that sound somewhat correct?
Yeah pretty much except for one thing. I wouldn't try to keep self pollinating. I admit I am far less experienced in breeding than a lot of others on here, especially a member by the name of donpaul.p (check out his journal!)
But I was thinking more along the lines of:
Isolating the pollen from "Strain #1" through means of CS, using that pollen I would pollinate a female from "Strain #2"
This would result in the F1 seeds (unstable) for what we can call Strain #3.
Lets say we grow a big batch of these seeds and we analyze the wild types (phenos). Lets say we have phenotypes A,B,C,D,E.
Assuming A, and C are the better, more sought after cuts/phenos I would take a male from one, and a female from the other (or vice versa) and do regular polliation, not self-pollination.
And then the resulting F2 should be more stable, so on and so forth for F3, F4, etc...
Someone more experienced than I can correct me if I'm wrong, but that's the way I was looking at it.
For my KC's, I was planning on either doing stuff like that with the inbreeding, or just the method that toker69 is using to obtain the "feminized seeds", since I'm not really looking to create a new cross at the moment, rather just looking for more stable KC-45 seeds without having to purchase more.
Still need to give it all some more thought.
But I was thinking more along the lines of:
Isolating the pollen from "Strain #1" through means of CS, using that pollen I would pollinate a female from "Strain #2"
This would result in the F1 seeds (unstable) for what we can call Strain #3.
Lets say we grow a big batch of these seeds and we analyze the wild types (phenos). Lets say we have phenotypes A,B,C,D,E.
Assuming A, and C are the better, more sought after cuts/phenos I would take a male from one, and a female from the other (or vice versa) and do regular polliation, not self-pollination.
And then the resulting F2 should be more stable, so on and so forth for F3, F4, etc...
Someone more experienced than I can correct me if I'm wrong, but that's the way I was looking at it.
For my KC's, I was planning on either doing stuff like that with the inbreeding, or just the method that toker69 is using to obtain the "feminized seeds", since I'm not really looking to create a new cross at the moment, rather just looking for more stable KC-45 seeds without having to purchase more.
Still need to give it all some more thought.
I dunno, I guess we are just assuming you are stuck with femmed seeds to begin with, or a female clone. Like I only have female clones so the only way for me to get pollen is the CS at this point.
If we had a bunch of F1 seeds (regular) to begin with, we'd have males and females all over so I don't think CS would be part of the discussion.
I haven't fully read up on the effects of the "feminization" and how stable they would be. I would think any CS derived seeds would have a slightly increased chance to mutation/hermie tendency. But I can't say for sure.
I suppose it just depends on the stability of the genetics to begin with.
If we had a bunch of F1 seeds (regular) to begin with, we'd have males and females all over so I don't think CS would be part of the discussion.
I haven't fully read up on the effects of the "feminization" and how stable they would be. I would think any CS derived seeds would have a slightly increased chance to mutation/hermie tendency. But I can't say for sure.
I suppose it just depends on the stability of the genetics to begin with.