PakaloloHawaii's LED High Brix Perpetual!

Brah thanks for reps. Your girls always look perfect mine look a little weathered but I am juggling too much and that last round of swells didn't help me any either. I stay pretty happy with um though and next round will be better planned. reps back to you brah you are one unreal grower and I mean that.

Brother please, you da man. I just praying desperately that I can grow something I don't mind smoking! Trying to redefine homegrown in my circle...successful so far but I don't have any fire strains like diesel or kush or purple yet to really change minds. I'm really going to be looking into how to use some organic steamed bone meal like Doc was talking about to grow some cookies or OG or something. Really hoping my next two rounds with these blue strains turn out well. I'd love to find a keeper to hang with my lonely syntax.

I had some cat piss weed back in the early 2000s some of the best and it reeked like catpiss.that through the bag cat piss smell!

Yes! Funny you mention time frame it, hawaii always seemed to be late to the show, people only figuring out BHO and dabs in the last year or so. I was working in Wakiki as a bartender when I got that sack of catpiss. Man it was unforgettable. The things I would do for a cut of the real thing.....



Two distinct phenos with my blue hammers... One with amazing vigor and super stretch in bloom and wonderful long colas developing, but not the most amazing trich production yet...very sweet blue smell.

The other younger one is much shorter and slower, but already getting very frosty. Not as sweet smelling...possible jack hammer pheno but strange it's not the taller one, as the blueberry in the cross is indica.....
 
Gotta start remembering to take photos before i water...

Two of five daydream hazes..#2 & #4, and a few clones..blue hammers and syntax. And finally BH #3, middle of week six...looking like at least 11 or 12 weeks on this one.

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not offending doc or anyone else but ive been lurking on these high brix journals and i am seeing that leaf claw alot..Dont get me wrong i am seeing awesome results,i know its not for everyone maybe a little too much n in flowering.im no expert or a major in botany but maybe someone can chime in with a response different then too much energy..Again doc no offense you have far more experience then i do but i just have to ask the question.thanks
 
not offending doc or anyone else but ive been lurking on these high brix journals and i am seeing that leaf claw alot..Dont get me wrong i am seeing awesome results,i know its not for everyone maybe a little too much n in flowering.im no expert or a major in botany but maybe someone can chime in with a response..Again doc no offense you have far more experience then i do but i just have to ask the question.thanks

I don't even get a fade on my plants. Dark green and waxy leaves are a sign of perfect health. While most books will tell you that look is to much N, it's also in reference to synthetic nutes.
 
well i know each grow is different so i didnt want to offend anyone.thanks for the response curso.Is it possible to get high brix numbers with synthetic nutes and different soil?
 
Ive read the plants see organics the same way they see chemical nutes Nitrogen is nitrogen whether chemically made or not they do not know the difference.I am growing organically as well so im not bashing just trying to truly understand.
 
Ive read the plants see organics the same way they see chemical nutes Nitrogen is nitrogen whether chemically made or not they do not know the difference.I am growing organically as well so im not bashing just trying to truly understand.
There are many forms of Nitrogen bro, the soil knows the difference. We aren't feeding the plant, no, we allow the soil to feed the plant as it should. What we are doing with drenches and such is telling the population in the pot what to bring the plant.
 
The only difference from my research is that chemical nutes are readily available to the plant,organics have to be broken down by the soil..Nitrogen is nitrogen chemical ferts are just more readily available. no offense to anyone
 
i do not know the rules about posting links But here is a good read:

Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and other nutrients are needed by plants for healthy growth. These are elements, and as such, there is no difference between the nitrogen (N) from an organic nutrient, or a chemical nutrient. Elemental nitrogen is the exact same thing regardless of the source.

What garden plants most often use to allow them to take up nitrogen (N) is a form known as nitrate (NO3), which is a nitrogen (N) atom connected with three oxygen (O) atoms. Nitrate (NO3) is easy for the plants to separate the nitrogen (N) from the oxygen (O), and therefore makes for a good source of nitrogen (N) (woody plants like trees can also use ammonium (NH4)).
 
i do not know the rules about posting links But here is a good read:

Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and other nutrients are needed by plants for healthy growth. These are elements, and as such, there is no difference between the nitrogen (N) from an organic nutrient, or a chemical nutrient. Elemental nitrogen is the exact same thing regardless of the source.

What garden plants most often use to allow them to take up nitrogen (N) is a form known as nitrate (NO3), which is a nitrogen (N) atom connected with three oxygen (O) atoms. Nitrate (NO3) is easy for the plants to separate the nitrogen (N) from the oxygen (O), and therefore makes for a good source of nitrogen (N) (woody plants like trees can also use ammonium (NH4)).

Doc, are you using the cationic drench as a replacement for energy after week 4?

Ps
No.

Here's an email I got from the lab. This isn't a direct answer to your question, but the answers you seek are contained therein in germ form......

NPK....all nitrogen is "N." It's all the same once the plant breaks it down, right?

Doc Bud,

"Wrong!" says Dr. Reams.

"Nitrogen can be growth energy or reproductive energy depending on molecular configuration."

When nitrogen is in the nitrate form it creates growth energy in plants and soil. Reproductive energy comes in the form of ammoniacal, urea, or organic nitrogen. This dual form of energy for nitrogen makes it the most confusing element to consider when looking at energy.

A basic principle to always remember is that plant growth is all about energy.

You create this energy by reacting growth energy against reproductive energy according to the crop being grown.

Let's take a few examples to clarify this concept. We had a wheat grower who decided to spray his wheat with a few gallons of liquid calcium nitrate. Unfortunately this resulted in a significant yield decline. Fortunately International Ag Labs did not suggest this. :-) So what happened?

Liquid calcium nitrate is a double growth energy fertilizer. Both calcium and nitrogen in the nitrate form push plants and soils with growth energy. Regrettably the farmer sprayed his wheat just at the time the kernel count was being determined. The growth energy from the calcium nitrate pushed the wheat plants more toward growth energy and away from reproductive energy. What the plants really needed was a reproductive spray to increase kernel set.

Here is another example: A grower with a field of canning tomatoes sought to maximize his harvest of tomatoes all at picking time. To do this he kept his soil on the growth side longer by using growth energy products such as calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate. The result were large tomato plants and thick stalks but not a tomato anywhere. The canning company field rep was getting worried.

At the right time the farmer switched his soil from growth to reproductive and turned his field yellow with blossoms overnight. How did he do this? By using reproductive fertilizers and foliar sprays. These caused the soil and plants to switch from growth to reproductive. How can this be done? Simple - broadcast some ammonium sulfate, 11-52-0 or urea. Then spray the plants with a dilute reproductive spray made from household ammonia, phosphoric acid, vinegar etc. The broadcast switches the soil while the foliar spray switched the plants.

Once a large bunch of tomatoes were set and beginning to develop, the farmer switched back to growth energy dominance. Why? Because growth energy is also bulking energy. Now the farmer wanted to size up the tomatoes. By keeping growth energy dominant he was able to stop new blossoms from developing. What was the end result? A large harvest of tomatoes all ripening at nearly the same time.

Last example: You manage conventional turf. What nitrogen source should you use? The standard practice is to use urea. Urea is a 100% reproductive energy. Turf is a crop that needs growth energy dominance. This means urea is the exact opposite energy of what should be supplied. Organically managed turf using compost or some other organic nitrogen does the same thing. Too much reproductive energy. The answer is to use calcium nitrate.

So is nitrogen just nitrogen? No it is a very specific energy that can influence the soil/plant in the direction you wish.

Disagree
 
Ive read the plants see organics the same way they see chemical nutes Nitrogen is nitrogen whether chemically made or not they do not know the difference.I am growing organically as well so im not bashing just trying to truly understand.

No, this is correct. If you're talking about basic elements like nitrogen and calcium, sure, it's physics - nitrogen is nitrogen. The difference is in the ratios, the mix, and what compounds the elements are attached to. Roots don't absorb elements, they absorb compounds/molecules and some are easier to work with than others.

But a plant is a very complex dynamic organism. Suppose your particular plant likes lots of nitrogen at one time and a buncha calcium at another time and maybe different amounts of phosphorous all the time. Its roots are constantly exuding subtle sugars which are meant to trigger soil biota to produce the elements it needs from the minerals in the soil. The plant controls this process as it was evolved to do, and the biota respond as they were evolved to respond. It's dynamic and ideally designed for what it does. If we can get it to work more perfectly, we get more perfect plants.

Or we can screw the whole idea and just feed the plant directly. :cheesygrinsmiley: Usually, you can't do both. If you feed the plant directly, it doesn't feed the biota anymore and the soil dies off.

The Energy drench is actually a typical organic nitrogen nute - fish based calcium nitrate - not really related to the soil. We're using it as a non-harmful traditional fertilizer and it can clash with the biota, so you can get some symptoms. Neither the plant nor the biota are regulating it, we are. We're clumsier at it than they are, which is the whole point of this HB approach.
 
thanks for taking the time to post the link.some much conflicting info i have used chem ferts in the past and had awesome results without burn in fact i have some stuff called sonic bloom 61-50 pk numbers i was given as a sample that the hydro guy says gives awesome results without burning.I may try this on a few of my plants with a good flush.Interesting debate im glad everyone can be adult.PEACE to all
 
more info if someone wants me to stop i will ive been searching for answers conflicting what i say for over an hour and cannot find any. Here is one from university of colorado:

Quick Facts...
Nitrogen in the air is the ultimate source of all soil nitrogen.
Nitrogen may enter the soil through rainfall, plant residues, nitrogen fixation by soil organisms, animal manures and commercial fertilizers.
There is no difference between the nitrogen that enters the plant from commercial fertilizers and that from organic products.
Nitrogen may be lost from the soil by plant removal, volatilization, leaching or erosion.
Leaching of nitrate is a pollution hazard; control nitrogen losses with proper management practices.
To get the maximum benefit from nitrogen fertilization with a minimum pollution hazard you must understand nitrogen properties and transformations.

Commercial fertilizer nitrogen comes in three basic forms: gas, liquid and dry. All forms are equally effective when properly applied. Once applied, fertilizer nitrogen is subject to the same transformations as other sources of nitrogen. There is no difference between the ammonium (NH4+) or nitrate (NO3-) that enters the plant from commercial fertilizer and that produced from natural products such as manure, crop residues or organic fertilizers.
 
I would only suggest that you're missing the point.

It's a question of whether you want to feed the plant, or help the biota do it. The biota are much better at it - the plant is in constant communication through the root exudates.

You're right about elements - nitrogen is nitrogen. But NH4+ is not Ca(NO3)2. Do some research into root exudates and soil biota. Fascinating stuff!
 
All this discussion because my blue has some claw...

Too much Energy will give a temporary claw. It'll straighten out.


Doc id love it if you were right, but since the flip she's only had 5ml of energy. I was hoping/thinking it was a leaf mutation. I will mention that this girl stretched like a mofo and the long colas are 12in from my 1200w led. The bottom branches don't show nearly as much claw.

Didn't expect my 1 foot plant to end up 4 feet tall....note to self - train that bitch better next time!
 
All this discussion because my blue has some claw...




Doc id love it if you were right, but since the flip she's only had 5ml of energy. I was hoping/thinking it was a leaf mutation. I will mention that this girl stretched like a mofo and the long colas are 12in from my 1200w led. The bottom branches don't show nearly as much claw.

Didn't expect my 1 foot plant to end up 4 feet tall....note to self - train that bitch better next time!

Bro that ugly urkle clawed on me and I was giving her very light transplant water. I think mine was caused by the fan blowing on the pot..lol
 
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