Whoa! Those Durban seeds are really fast. I had 5 out of 5 pop tails in less than 24 hours. 2 had popped in like 6 hrs in water. None of the colombians have popped yet.
Original source seeds from the 70's: Yes I have some
- Thread starter Big Sur
- Start date
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- #622
I would germinate your seeds in moist paper towels. Better germ rates, no soil fungi to attack them, and you can keep an eye on them. You can also mist them with hydrogen peroxide in water at a rate of one cup per gallon of water (1/4 cup per quart of water). That will keep them from dampening off (croaking from fungal attack).
Malana Cream is untainted by modern genetics, yes. RSC sourced them themselves from Malana. That place is as remote and weirder than any place on this earth. They consider all outsiders as inferior non-humans and you cannot touch anything or anyone there except for one 'guest house' set up for outsiders. They also believe that they are direct descendants of Alexander the Great when he invaded India in 325 BC. There are no roads into the village and it is a steep hike to get there in the Himalayas. Also the last I heard, they have closed the village to outsiders. Malana is one of my prized strains in my collection. I have yet to grow them though.
I'mOne
Well-Known Member
Sorry yes they were in paper towels just not long enough...? Thanks Bigsur
- Thread starter
- #624
Keep them warm, dark and damp. I usually get fresh seeds to sprout in 2 days. Some of my old and tired beans may take a week. Some older seeds may take a 100ppm GA bath for 12 hours and then sprout in a few days. I let them get about an inch long in the towels before putting them in sandy soil under lights. They turn green in a few hours after that and off they go.
I'mOne
Well-Known Member
Do you bury all the inch long growth?
- Thread starter
- #626
No. Depending on how the seed head is doing, I may have to tweeze open the seed shells. Then the cotyledon leaves will pop out. If the cotyledon leaves are already free or I free them, I plant the lower half of the root growth into sandy soil. I find that sandy soil works better for faster root growth and it has better drainage. Usually within a hour they start to turn green when put under light. I use T-8 bulbs a few inches above the plants. T-8 bulbs are great because they run cool and that allows the leaves to grow up and touch the bulbs and not burn. T-5 bulbs are brighter but they run hot so they have to be kept farther away from the plants. Light energy falls off greatly with distance (at the inverse square of the distance from the source). During this time I also spray them with diluted H2O2 to keep the fungus from getting to them. Once the true leaves pop out and fill in, the chance of dampening off is over. Initially I use seed trays that are 1 inch square by 2 inches deep. Once the roots reach the bottom of the seed trays, I transplant them into 4x4" pots with standard soil mix. I also move them into a sunny window to size up. Once I see roots at the bottom of those pots, I transplant them into gallon pots and move them into the greenhouses (typically in late May).
I'mOne
Well-Known Member
BigSur ...Wow...thanks for the in depth explanation. It's hard to see through some of the jargon and catch phrases on some of the threads. You made it sound understandable. I appreciate it. I will post photos of my grow soon.
I'mOne
Well-Known Member
BigSur ...Wow...thanks for the in depth explanation. It's hard to see through some of the jargon and catch phrases on some of the threads. You made it sound understandable. I appreciate it. I will post photos of my grow soon.
I'mOne
Well-Known Member
Well I'm certainly not going to order from over seas until I find a better way. It costs 47 dollars to send by registered mail. If you don't send by registered mail the seedbanks can deny that got your money and tell you to???? But....order from USA and the register mail is 7 dollars and seeds are cheaper.
All 5 durbans are up in a hurry. they are tiny in form compared to my Punto-Biche cross growing next to them. I can't wait to see how thy shape up.
I only got 1 out of the last 6 cbg mangobiche seeds this time to come up and 0 out of 6 for the cbg punto rojos.
It's been 5 full days now since I started, so I gently squeezed the seeds at the seams until they popped. it was hard AF to keep them in between my finger and thumbnail. So I ended up putting them in between my teeth and barely popped the seams like a sunflower seed. I didn't try to remove the shell yet for fear of damage, but hopefully that will give them some extra help to start growing. I'm misting them with water/h2o2 the whole process. And changing out the paper towels too.
If nothing happens in a couple days should I try to take them completely out of the shell?
I only got 1 out of the last 6 cbg mangobiche seeds this time to come up and 0 out of 6 for the cbg punto rojos.
It's been 5 full days now since I started, so I gently squeezed the seeds at the seams until they popped. it was hard AF to keep them in between my finger and thumbnail. So I ended up putting them in between my teeth and barely popped the seams like a sunflower seed. I didn't try to remove the shell yet for fear of damage, but hopefully that will give them some extra help to start growing. I'm misting them with water/h2o2 the whole process. And changing out the paper towels too.
If nothing happens in a couple days should I try to take them completely out of the shell?
Here's 3 of your DoubleDurban on the left and 2 Punto-Biche on the right.
- Thread starter
- #632
Sorry, but you seem to be inexperienced and/or uninformed about overseas shipping. I have ALWAYS gotten my beans from overseas. Always. And I have gotten hundreds, no make that over a THOUSAND beans shipped from overseas over the past 5 years. NO ISSUES, EVER. Also it does not cost $47 to send beans from or to Europe. Its $15 tops. Royal Mail is the best way to ship from England and it is only £5.00. That is $6.60 USD. And I have gotten them in as little as 3 days sent that way. IN THREE DAYS! I do not get mail from the US that fast. Also seeds are LEGAL TO SHIP from London, and thus you have far better recourse if you do not receive them than if you get them from the US, where they are NOT LEGAL TO SHIP across state lines. Seriously. Oh, and RegSeeds takes Credit Cards. If you do not get your seeds, you can call the CC company and get your money back. Also if you use a PayPal MasterCard there is no foreign transaction fee either.
The only time I got burned not getting seeds was from a company in California, in the US. They gave me a tracking number and the PO says it is still in the mail someplace. Since then I have gotten no reply from them. Shipping beans within the US is still not legal, so you have ZERO recourse to get your money from anyone selling and sending seeds from inside the US. Seeds are also not cheaper here either. Seeds sold in stores in Oregon are really spendy. Far more expensive than from Europe. Also, where do they sell seeds like Lebanese landraces stateside? I do not know of anyone that does. RSC and ACE are the only ones I know of that have them regularly in stock. They are located in the UK and Spain. As an example looking today at an online listing at RegSeeds in London: 10 KwaZulu landrace seeds from World of Seeds is £14.00 ($18.42 USD). Shipping is $6.60 by Royal Mail, for a total of $25.02 USD for 10 seeds, or $2.50 a seed. I cannot beat that price or security anywhere here in the states, let alone find these types of seeds. You saying that you can?
- Thread starter
- #633
Cool beans. I always like to see my babies grow. The Durbans are pretty bullet proof plants. Most sativa landrace beans are smaller as a rule, and they also tend to be more resistant to dampening off. They also grow into larger plants. I dunno why that is. I am not sure how large they grow in the ground. I only grew them in 15 gallon pots to keep them smaller in size to fit in my greenhouses, and I pinched them to get more branches.
For your PRs and Mangos, there is no need to take them out of the shell if the seed coat has been popped. As long as water gets in them they can swell and grow. The H2O2 spray should prevent any rot. If they hang up on opening the hinge, you can tease the seed coats off of them with tweezers and let the cotyledon leaves pop out. You may want to revert to GA if they still do not pop tails. I may do that with some tired Colombian beans that I am germinating here now. My 40 year old frozen and thawed Mexican beans all popped tails within 3 days. So much for Cannabis seeds being damaged when frozen, eh? And yet that paradigm still prevails by the 'experts'.
lazyfish
Well-Known Member
Hey Sur, do you have any tried and true methods for controlling white mildew in a later flower stage?
Thanks for the seed site recommendation. I have had some bad experiences as well.
Cheers,
Thanks for the seed site recommendation. I have had some bad experiences as well.
Cheers,
I'mOne
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that advice. I had never heard of using Royal Mail. My local bumpkin post office offered me 47$ or $1.15 ....nothing in between..I am not allowed to discuss my experiences with a sponsor or mention the US seedbank that i like and thats true... no they are not landraces...and that makes me sad. I have had limited experiences for sure.
They were not good.
- Thread starter
- #636
You mean botrytis rot? Otherwise called grey mold? No, I do not have a cure for that. If I did I would get rich and sell a spray. If you mean powdery mildew (PM), that is easy to control and kill. There are two simple sprays for PM. You can use refined 70% Neem oil at 100:1 strength (stronger than they recommend on the label). To get 100:1 with 70% neem, mix at a rate of 3.5 TB per gallon of water. The other spray option is two cups (16 oz or one pint) 3% hydrogen peroxide [H2O2] in a gallon of water with a few drops of soap spreader. Spray either liberally. Neither are toxic to you, your dog, your kids, or most beneficials. They are contact sprays, and they will both also work on mite infestations in that strength (both spider and broad mites). H2O2 (peroxide) simply breaks down into water. If you do not like the smell of Neem, it will evaporate and be broken down in sunlight in a few days time. Refined 70% Neem does not have Aza in it, so it does not cause Cannabis Hypermesis Syndrome (CHS). I do not believe that CHS is caused by Aza, but many do. Aza is used on a LOT of organic fruits and veggies in the US, and people would always be lined up around the emergency rooms with CHS symptoms if CHS was caused by it. CHS is far more likley cased by ingesting Cannabis by people sensitive to certain cannabinoids or terpenoids or even flavonoids in weed. Or they just smoke too much of it and do not like the weird dysphoria effects of too much THC. Refined 70% Neem oil does not need a spreader, and it is a lot easier to spray than raw neem oil.
Once PM is under control, you can drop to the standard mix rates of 2.5 TB refined 70% Neem per gallon of water and 1 cup of H2O2 per gallon of water as a preventative for mites and PM. Also only spray Neem oil (or any oil spray) when it is under 60 deg. F. and keep the plant in the shade for at least a day after spraying oil. Otherwise you can burn the leaves with it. That is not needed with the H2O2 spray. I douse my plants with the lighter H2O2 spray a lot here later in season, mainly to keep the broad mites in check. They are everywhere now, coast to coast, feeding on the wild and commercial blackberries and raspberries. I spray my cane berries with the H2O2 spray as well to keep the broads away. I do not grow organic, but these two sprays happen to be accepted as organic.
lazyfish
Well-Known Member
WOW! What a great response! That outlines it very clearly. I need to take some preventative measures as I have seen hemp mites a lot lately as well.
So then is the refined neem okay to spray mid to late flower? That is where I really struggle at least indoors. I usually drop the temps a bit at night, but sometimes mold comes with no warning.
So then is the refined neem okay to spray mid to late flower? That is where I really struggle at least indoors. I usually drop the temps a bit at night, but sometimes mold comes with no warning.
- Thread starter
- #638
Yes, the refined Neem and H2O2 are fine to spray in late flower. Some people do not like the Neem smell though. And the Hypermesis people get all torqued out over using Neem, even w/o any aza in it. Grey mold is an issue indoors if you do not have fans running. Or if you have water condensing on your plants. Any water drops condensing anywhere on your plants in late flower is bad and will always lead to grey mold. PM can be an issue at any time, and some strains are really susceptible to PM (like GDP). For me in the GH in late summer, cool nights can cause water to condense on the inside of the plastic causing grey mold anywhere that the water drips onto the plants. So I have to pull them into the garage and turn on the lights and fans and pay $$$$$. Gotta have fans indoors or you will get condenstation in places leading to grey mold and stem rot.
lazyfish
Well-Known Member
Ya that's what is doing it. I have been inching temps down to 66 F at nightl lately. Not something I do very often. Maybe the nice colors are not worth the potential PITA? Or maybe I will start spraying neem and H2O2 bit more often....?
Thanks a lot for the advice!
Thanks a lot for the advice!
- Thread starter
- #640
Got'ta crank up the fans indoors! Especialy if you are running at lower temps. In my experience you have to get below 60 F to get the purple reaction going in plants that do that. Some strains turn purple regardless, like Maui Waui and Zacatecas Purple.