Talk about a horney light! Nice work building that one! Beautiful build.
I can see them being the last stop. Any breakdowns and you can make a repair.
OG Kush & White Widow, Organic Living Soil, 614W LED
- Thread starter Nunyabiz
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #122
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Thanks Stone.
Yeah at my age these should be my last lights I'll ever need.
Strips are 3 year warranty and I think the drivers are 7 years.
Anything happens and it's a simple fix.
I fully believe these should be trouble free for 10 years or longer since they will rarely be run at full power, always dimmed.
And dimmed they are super efficient at probably around 3 umols/j
I might look into the dimmer option for the Nextlight. All ahead full is pretty bright all the time.
- Thread starter
- #124
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
And so it begins.
Planted two autoflowers 13 days ago, they both appear to be normal and not stunted.
One on left is Six Shooter one on right is Blue Dreamatic.
Been feeding the soil and worms with Bokashi, coconut water, aloe vera, Ferticell Universal Algae and some Fermented Plant Juice of Peach & Comfrey.
Planted two autoflowers 13 days ago, they both appear to be normal and not stunted.
One on left is Six Shooter one on right is Blue Dreamatic.
Been feeding the soil and worms with Bokashi, coconut water, aloe vera, Ferticell Universal Algae and some Fermented Plant Juice of Peach & Comfrey.
Hey nunyabiz. Finally got caught up with your bits and pieces. You are pulling some impressive weights out of that grow space.
One thing sticks out though. You’ll tell me if it’s none of my business.. seems to me like you haven’t had a bath in years?!
Love your work, man.
One thing sticks out though. You’ll tell me if it’s none of my business.. seems to me like you haven’t had a bath in years?!
Love your work, man.
- Thread starter
- #126
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
LOLHey nunyabiz. Finally got caught up with your bits and pieces. You are pulling some impressive weights out of that grow space.
One thing sticks out though. You’ll tell me if it’s none of my business.. seems to me like you haven’t had a bath in years?!
Love your work, man.
Yeah been following along with you the past few hours, glad to see you enjoyed the read.
We've been living in this house for 27 years and have never used this bathroom at all so I figured I would finally put it to use.
It's really almost custom made for growing.
Nice Nunya! This is a first for me. No till looks interesting.
PCaddict
Member
I have my clover seeds ready to go in the LOS pots this spring. I will get all the pots in place in the greenhouse start the clover when I start the seeds so I can have a little ground cover. then plant the seedlings. I got Gro Kashi and Malted Barley for top dressing and Boggie Brew Compost Tea it also came with extra amendments to add too. Your no till pots look great lots of ground cover they should be happy in that soil. I still have a lot to learn about LOS and No Till
- Thread starter
- #129
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Sounds good.
I would even start your cover crop a few weeks prior to the cannabis so that you can get the mycorrhazae starting to establish before the cannabis.
RXOIL
Active Member
Hey Nunya looks like a great living soil you have going there. Is this the same soil recipe that you outlined in your 1st grow of White Widow and Kush? Would you share the ratio of each component in that mix? Many thanks for all you share!And so it begins.
Planted two autoflowers 13 days ago, they both appear to be normal and not stunted.
One on left is Six Shooter one on right is Blue Dreamatic.
Been feeding the soil and worms with Bokashi, coconut water, aloe vera, Ferticell Universal Algae and some Fermented Plant Juice of Peach & Comfrey.
- Thread starter
- #131
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Thanks.
Nope my current soil is considerably different than that first batch.
That grow was in 7 gallon fabric pots and while still technically an organic soil was being fed organic bottled nutrients and had a little soil micro biology happening, I was using Recharge for mycorrhazae.
I used that soil once then went to 15 gallon fabric pots using my current soil, then next grow went to 25 gallon fabric pots which is what I have been using for the last I think it's been 7 or 8 grows on this same soil.
I just had a soil test done a few days ago
Most everything was in the medium to high range except for potassium and magnesium.
The magnesium was just slightly low the potassium was really the only thing really too low.
I also needed just a wee bit more manganese.
But overall other than potassium everything was pretty well balanced still after 7 to 8 grows on it.
So its definitely working as it should with the worms and cover crop with the occasional amendments boost.
I made a tea of Langbeinite also known as Sul-po-mag and also dug my finger into the soil as deep as my finger in about 10 spots around each pot and made little Langbeinite spikes to boost my potassium and magnesium and watered with RO water with a teaspoon of Langbeinite allowed to dissolve over night so hopefully by the time my current plants are a month into veg everything should be fine across the board and back totally in balance.
My current soil is a real Living Organic Soil with a very rich soil microbiome.
I use Rootwise Microbe Complete and Biophos and Elixir as my mycorrhazae inoculate, plus Bokashi and Comfrey Peach Fermented Plant Juice to boost my soil life.
My base soil is Buildasoil Oly Mountain Modern Mix 2 and over the past couple years have top dressed with Oly Mountain Fish Compost which is a very nice compost aged two years.
The composition of that soil is
1 Part Oly Mountain Fish Compost
1 Part Sphagnum Peat Moss
2/3 Part Pumice
1/3 Part Rice Hulls
5% Pre-Charged Colorado Bio Char!!
Nutrients included in the soil:
Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 cup Per Cubic Foot
Terviva Karanja Cake @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Brix Blend Basalt @ 2 Cups Per Cubic Foot
Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
I feed the worms and amend the soil with Craftblend about once a month.
Which consist of.
Ingredients all Equal by Weight:
- Thorvin Premium Kelp Meal
- Karanja Cake - Terviva
- Alfalfa Meal
- CalPhos
- Camelina Meal
- Crustacean Meal
- Fish Meal
- 3x Fish Bone Meal
- Soybean Meal
- Sul-Po-Mag (Also Known as K-Mag or Langbeinite)
- Malted Barley Grains (3 Varieties)
- Azomite
- Basalt - Local Colorado
- Gypsum
- Oyster Flour
And have recently started using Ferticell Universal Algae twice a month.
When I water I usually have one or all of either Coconut water, Aloe Vera and Yucca extract and Comfrey Peach Fermented Plant Juice in the water.
PCaddict
Member
Book marked Thank You
PCaddict
Member
Don't you also use Gro Kshi
RXOIL
Active Member
Nunya you go above and beyond. And is very much appreciated. Thank you so very much for the info. Would it be ok to use the Malibu blend they now have available? I noticed the mag and pot was a bit higher in the Malibu. I know they used manure instead of fish for the compost but I was wondering which you would recommend.
- Thread starter
- #136
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Iam sure they're both fine, I just liked the Oly Mountain a bit better.
- Thread starter
- #137
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Yes, which is just a different recipe of Bokashi.
Been using both versions
RXOIL
Active Member
Oly Mountain is saying the Malibu is their latest blend. Maybe they agree with you on the levels of mag and pot.
RXOIL
Active Member
Nunya I am starting the living soil you recommended in a 30 gallon fabric pot but remember you talking about having too much nitrogen in flower due to a heavy population of red wigglers. When I get the soil ready I planned on adding the worms. How many would you put in a 30 gal? Also ordering triple threat nematodes and some rove beetles which come 100 per batch. I feel like I'm going to start a war of the worlds with bugs.
- Thread starter
- #140
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
I believe my slightly high nitrogen came from me overdoing it feeding the worms chopped up cover crop, I layered lots of green cover crop with barley straw as mulch.
I also added nitrogen in the form of Fish Hydrolysate before I knew just how much nitrogen the cover crops and worms produced.
And that only happened to one pot and I did both pots exactly the same so that particular plant my not have been able to use high nitrogen.
Never really "clawed" or got what you'd call a nitrogen toxicity but it did start to show signs of excess nitrogen.
I bought a pound of worms and split them between two 25 gallon pots.
Before you put worms in the pot I would get your soil to come alive first.
Let your soil marinate a bit, get a cover crop growing, good mulch layer, soil thoroughly moistened top to bottom no dry hydrophobic spots, get your microbes going once you get roots in the soil from the cover crop.
Then after about 3 to 4 weeks introduce your worms and they will borrow on in into Worm Shangri-la and they'll want to stick around.
If the environment isn't to their liking they may crawl out.