I believe my slightly high nitrogen came from me overdoing it feeding the worms chopped up cover crop, I layered lots of green cover crop with barley straw as mulch.
I also added nitrogen in the form of Fish Hydrolysate before I knew just how much nitrogen the cover crops and worms produced.
And that only happened to one pot and I did both pots exactly the same so that particular plant my not have been able to use high nitrogen.
Never really "clawed" or got what you'd call a nitrogen toxicity but it did start to show signs of excess nitrogen.

I bought a pound of worms and split them between two 25 gallon pots.
Before you put worms in the pot I would get your soil to come alive first.
Let your soil marinate a bit, get a cover crop growing, good mulch layer, soil thoroughly moistened top to bottom no dry hydrophobic spots, get your microbes going once you get roots in the soil from the cover crop.
Then after about 3 to 4 weeks introduce your worms and they will borrow on in into Worm Shangri-la and they'll want to stick around.
If the environment isn't to their liking they may crawl out.

That sounds good! Just waiting for some supplies to come in to get started. Thanks again for all the info you provide. Not sure how many years you have but you seem to have done your homework. How does your new light compare to the previous three that you were using? Thanks again!
 
That sounds good! Just waiting for some supplies to come in to get started. Thanks again for all the info you provide. Not sure how many years you have but you seem to have done your homework. How does your new light compare to the previous three that you were using? Thanks again!
My last 3 lights were burning little over 600watts and putting out a max of about 700 PAR mostly in the center and about 15" is as close as I could safely get to the canopy.
New lights are putting out more PAR on the outer edge than the old lights had at dead center even at 500 watts.
At 650 watts they are actually too intense unless I hang them way high but that just burns more electricity for no reason.
So these are considerably better, dimmable from 25 watts to 650 watts so can be dialed in to exactly what you need for every stage of growth.
I can hang them about 6" from canopy and get really good penetration.

I doubt that I will turn them much past 500 watts, I might blast the buds in the final week or two for a few hours a day but about 500 watts should put over 800 to 900 PAR evenly across the canopy which is more than enough unless you're running C02.
 
My last 3 lights were burning little over 600watts and putting out a max of about 700 PAR mostly in the center and about 15" is as close as I could safely get to the canopy.
New lights are putting out more PAR on the outer edge than the old lights had at dead center even at 500 watts.
At 650 watts they are actually too intense unless I hang them way high but that just burns more electricity for no reason.
So these are considerably better, dimmable from 25 watts to 650 watts so can be dialed in to exactly what you need for every stage of growth.
I can hang them about 6" from canopy and get really good penetration.

I doubt that I will turn them much past 500 watts, I might blast the buds in the final week or two for a few hours a day but about 500 watts should put over 800 to 900 PAR evenly across the canopy which is more than enough unless you're running C02.

Can you notice a big difference in the final weight between the two light systems? The pics you put up for the WW and Kush looked like hard to beat. You ended up with some really nice buds. Trichs were amazing! It's hard to image doing any better except for maybe buds under the canopy. Looked like to me you did a good job LSTing those main stalks to get light to most of your plant.

A lot of people are turning to LED lighting now days. In which case demands manufactures to be even more competitive. Great for us. We get to enjoy the latest in technology.

But that looks like a killer light you put together. I am sure it will serve you well. Maybe there is a place for you in the lighting industry. Maybe Nunyalight.biz lol
 
Can you notice a big difference in the final weight between the two light systems? The pics you put up for the WW and Kush looked like hard to beat. You ended up with some really nice buds. Trichs were amazing! It's hard to image doing any better except for maybe buds under the canopy. Looked like to me you did a good job LSTing those main stalks to get light to most of your plant.

A lot of people are turning to LED lighting now days. In which case demands manufactures to be even more competitive. Great for us. We get to enjoy the latest in technology.

But that looks like a killer light you put together. I am sure it will serve you well. Maybe there is a place for you in the lighting industry. Maybe Nunyalight.biz lol
I am doing my first grow with them right now so I can only speculate.
One is 17 days old the other is 14 days from seed.
I did finish the final two weeks of my last grow with the new light but that tells me nothing.
 
Thanks.
Nope my current soil is considerably different than that first batch.
That grow was in 7 gallon fabric pots and while still technically an organic soil was being fed organic bottled nutrients and had a little soil micro biology happening, I was using Recharge for mycorrhazae.
I used that soil once then went to 15 gallon fabric pots using my current soil, then next grow went to 25 gallon fabric pots which is what I have been using for the last I think it's been 7 or 8 grows on this same soil.
I just had a soil test done a few days ago
Most everything was in the medium to high range except for potassium and magnesium.
The magnesium was just slightly low the potassium was really the only thing really too low.
I also needed just a wee bit more manganese.
But overall other than potassium everything was pretty well balanced still after 7 to 8 grows on it.
So its definitely working as it should with the worms and cover crop with the occasional amendments boost.

I made a tea of Langbeinite also known as Sul-po-mag and also dug my finger into the soil as deep as my finger in about 10 spots around each pot and made little Langbeinite spikes to boost my potassium and magnesium and watered with RO water with a teaspoon of Langbeinite allowed to dissolve over night so hopefully by the time my current plants are a month into veg everything should be fine across the board and back totally in balance.

My current soil is a real Living Organic Soil with a very rich soil microbiome.
I use Rootwise Microbe Complete and Biophos and Elixir as my mycorrhazae inoculate, plus Bokashi and Comfrey Peach Fermented Plant Juice to boost my soil life.
My base soil is Buildasoil Oly Mountain Modern Mix 2 and over the past couple years have top dressed with Oly Mountain Fish Compost which is a very nice compost aged two years.

The composition of that soil is

1 Part Oly Mountain Fish Compost

1 Part Sphagnum Peat Moss

2/3 Part Pumice

1/3 Part Rice Hulls

5% Pre-Charged Colorado Bio Char!!


Nutrients included in the soil:
Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 cup Per Cubic Foot

Terviva Karanja Cake @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Brix Blend Basalt @ 2 Cups Per Cubic Foot

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

I feed the worms and amend the soil with Craftblend about once a month.
Which consist of.

Ingredients all Equal by Weight:

  1. Thorvin Premium Kelp Meal
  2. Karanja Cake - Terviva
  3. Alfalfa Meal
  4. CalPhos
  5. Camelina Meal
  6. Crustacean Meal
  7. Fish Meal
  8. 3x Fish Bone Meal
  9. Soybean Meal
  10. Sul-Po-Mag (Also Known as K-Mag or Langbeinite)
  11. Malted Barley Grains (3 Varieties)
  12. Azomite
  13. Basalt - Local Colorado
  14. Gypsum
  15. Oyster Flour
I also feed the soil with Sprouted Seed Teas of Corn and Alfalfa once or twice a month.
And have recently started using Ferticell Universal Algae twice a month.

When I water I usually have one or all of either Coconut water, Aloe Vera and Yucca extract and Comfrey Peach Fermented Plant Juice in the water.


Coots mix from BAS? Looks like a good soil recipe. How long have you been growing with this mix??

Coots he warned us about the Langebenite - go easy is what I have written on my container.

Oly Mountain been making that Malibu compost for some time now. They have an organic dairy farm then use the waste products to make compost they bag and sell. Good stuff.

If anyone doing LOS and is also using Vermi-compost home made, you will get worms from the vermicompost.
 
Coots mix from BAS? Looks like a good soil recipe. How long have you been growing with this mix??

Coots he warned us about the Langebenite - go easy is what I have written on my container.

Oly Mountain been making that Malibu compost for some time now. They have an organic dairy farm then use the waste products to make compost they bag and sell. Good stuff.

If anyone doing LOS and is also using Vermi-compost home made, you will get worms from the vermicompost.
Between 3 to 4 years been using the Buildasoil Oly Mountain Modern mix 2 soil.
 
Great for you brother. Thats awesome.

I just had to tear down move my grow space and start back up again with the same soil I've been using for the last 4 years. I use just about the same inputs and amendments as you do.

I use a 3 part malted grain input.

Malted organic corn
Malted organic barley
Malted organic buckwheat.

2 parts barley - 1 part corn - 1 part buckwheat

Grind to fine powder and mix into the soil.
 
Few more pics.
Everything going smoothly, watered with super-oxygenated water with 60ml of coconut water today.

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You mentioned super oxygenating the water. Are you still using the emitter? Also I could only find one of those on line that some guy patented and sells for $199. Is that what you are using? As always thanks for your input!
 
You mentioned super oxygenating the water. Are you still using the emitter? Also I could only find one of those on line that some guy patented and sells for $199. Is that what you are using? As always thanks for your input!
Yes still using the 02 emitters virtually every time I water.
I bought one on sale that had two emitters with it about 3+ years ago and I've never touched the second emitter yet, just keeping it brand new.
I suppose these two will last rest of my life.
They work really well to super oxygenate the water, i run them like 15 mins up to an hour and the water is sometimes almost white with very tiny little micro bubbles that stay suspended in the water.
The one I got was an 02 Grow 2020 which now is $299, when I got it over 3 years ago I am pretty sure I paid $179 for it.
Here is one emitter with water before and after

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Wow! Big difference! I'm sure the roots are loving those little bubbles. I don't see or hear of many people using that particular unit. Most use the fish tank model air stone, but that technology looks to be able to get those super fine bubbles right down to the roots where it is needed. I would say by the looks of your plants, you are doing everything perfectly. How is your latest grow going?
 
Here's a Blueberry that is about 3 to 4 days from harvest. It's at just shy of 7 weeks flower so just 9 weeks total grow time.
I tried a little experiment just for shitz N giggles, I only Vegged for 2 weeks, at week one i bent it over and then just let it go a week and then flipped to flower.
Got 6 buds and they are quite thick and tight and loaded with oil.
Should be about 2 1/2 ounces dried and cured.

It seems as though each week of veg will produce about 1 1/4 ounces of finished bud.
2 weeks is 2 1/2 ounces
8 weeks I usually get 9+ ounces per plant.
I dont think I can do much more than 8 weeks of veg as my 2.5' x 5' space is pretty full by then.
I might try 9 weeks veg on a grow and see if I can squeeze 25 ounces out of the two plants.

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