Newbie Grower, Carmen Auto x Diva, Outdoors

pls explain the need for an auto reg.

Well, in respect and kindness, I already told you, but I will tell you again.
I am overseas, seeds and shipping are expensive.
@Azimuth suggested that instead of trying to grow 1:1 seeds, that I would get much better yields by trying to grow all-CBD and all-THC separately, and then mixing in the bowl (and this would have the advantage of opening up a whole lot of all-THC strains, flavors, terps, etc.).

So if I take that path, then while the flavor side could come from the all-THC strains, I would still need CBD. And as you mentioned, auto genetics are knocked down by the Ruderalis, so it kind of galls me to pay $10-13 plus shipping for the little things. If I could get a few good all-CBD strains (one Kush, one Haze, one Sativa, and one Couchlock-Indica), then I could mix and match and have a good old time! All while getting my medicine, and not paying $10-13 a seed (plus shipping) for scrawny little things that throw 50-100g.

I think "cost effectiveness" would be the short answer.
 
You can get non feminised auto seeds.
It's a search on the Internet though.

Right. But the number of high-CBD auto regulars is very limited.
After a day and a half of searching, I found only five 1:1 CBD:THC auto regulars.
I found zero all-CBD or high-CBD auto regulars.
 
from a sponsor

there's plenty of others.

Hey @bluter , thanks for responding.
This seems like it is kind of going in circles.
I tell you why I need an auto reg, and you ask me again.
I checked all of the sponsors for an all-CBD auto regular, and you said there were piles and piles. I searched for a day and a half, and found none. And then when I asked you about it, you laughed it off.
Thanks, but it seems like you are not listening.
 
Well, in respect and kindness, I already told you, but I will tell you again.
I am overseas, seeds and shipping are expensive.
@Azimuth suggested that instead of trying to grow 1:1 seeds, that I would get much better yields by trying to grow all-CBD and all-THC separately, and then mixing in the bowl (and this would have the advantage of opening up a whole lot of all-THC strains, flavors, terps, etc.).

So if I take that path, then while the flavor side could come from the all-THC strains, I would still need CBD. And as you mentioned, auto genetics are knocked down by the Ruderalis, so it kind of galls me to pay $10-13 plus shipping for the little things. If I could get a few good all-CBD strains (one Kush, one Haze, one Sativa, and one Couchlock-Indica), then I could mix and match and have a good old time! All while getting my medicine, and not paying $10-13 a seed (plus shipping) for scrawny little things that throw 50-100g.

I think "cost effectiveness" would be the short answer.



shorter answer is good quality photo genetics and learn to clone. if it's a serious thing then you could keep mother plants to clone perpetually from as well.

the issue with the autos is they are all one and done. and the male pollen is not useful in most measures if that is what you are thinking.
I checked all of the sponsors for an all-CBD auto regular, and you said there were piles and piles.


frankly it's just a hemp or straight ruderalis.

edit : if you only look at the seedbanks you might not get too far either. look at the breeders the seedbanks carry. loads of times the seedbank pages advertise the breeders themselves and have links. several breeders specialize in cbd. many do autos. they likely have what you seek. do a deeper dive
 
Right. But the number of high-CBD auto regulars is very limited.
After a day and a half of searching, I found only five 1:1 CBD:THC auto regulars.
I found zero all-CBD or high-CBD auto regulars.
I'd expect that ,
That's quite a unique requirement up to now.
I didn't even know you could get non fem autos until last year. Add to that cbd in photo plants only became popular in the past 5 years..you're a couple of years ahead of the curve.

I see a market opportunity though..cbd auto regs may be the norm in another 5 years.
 
I didn't even know you could get non fem autos until last year


they are a couple steps back from auto fems. more stable as a result. less chance of late flower herms. the males are culled same as running a reg sensimilla grow.

the economy is in the shorter growing time to harvest. the male pollen is less valuable than reg pollen generally for breeding.


I see a market opportunity though..cbd auto regs may be the norm in another 5 years.


the tendency for most is to stick to fems. if there's demand they'll fill it for sure. would be easier to get there.
 
shorter answer is good quality photo genetics and learn to clone. if it's a serious thing then you could keep mother plants to clone perpetually from as well.

Ok. I think I see where you are coming from.

the issue with the autos is they are all one and done. and the male pollen is not useful in most measures if that is what you are thinking.

Ok, are you saying that with a 2-month auto that starts to flower around 1 month, the seeds would not have time to finish?
How long do seeds take to finish up, once there is fertilization?

frankly it's just a hemp or straight ruderalis.

edit : if you only look at the seedbanks you might not get too far either. look at the breeders the seedbanks carry. loads of times the seedbank pages advertise the breeders themselves and have links. several breeders specialize in cbd. many do autos. they likely have what you seek. do a deeper dive

Ok, so write the breeders?
That seems like a good idea. Thank you.
 
I'd expect that ,
That's quite a unique requirement up to now.
I didn't even know you could get non fem autos until last year. Add to that cbd in photo plants only became popular in the past 5 years..you're a couple of years ahead of the curve.

I see a market opportunity though..cbd auto regs may be the norm in another 5 years.

Yea, thank you.
I think Bluter has the right idea. I just have to write the breeders, and ask them if they make one. And one of them will get the idea to make one, and maybe we will have one in a few years? Because I am sure that they could do a much better job of it than I could!
 
Ok, are you saying that with a 2-month auto that starts to flower around 1 month, the seeds would not have time to finish?
How long do seeds take to finish up, once there is fertilization?


finish yes. be useful doubtful.
 
they are a couple steps back from auto fems. more stable as a result. less chance of late flower herms. the males are culled same as running a reg sensimilla grow.

the economy is in the shorter growing time to harvest. the male pollen is less valuable than reg pollen generally for breeding.





the tendency for most is to stick to fems. if there's demand they'll fill it for sure. would be easier to get there.

Yeah, ok. Now I see what you are saying.
So write to the breeders, and ask them if they have one?
I already wrote some of them. I should write more.
Thanks.
 
finish yes. be useful doubtful.

Ahhh....
What about with a 3-4 month auto regular Haze?
Is that enough time to make the seed viable?
 
Ahhh....
What about with a 3-4 month auto regular Haze?
Is that enough time to make the seed viable?


any pregnant plant will make seed. auto. photo.. as long as it has enough time in flower. most won't take that long.


pretty sure i'm not encouraging this at all.
 
any pregnant plant will make seed. auto. photo.. as long as it has enough time in flower. most won't take that long.


pretty sure i'm not encouraging this at all.

Hmmm, well, so, is there any way to reliably grow your own cbd for medicine, with autos?
Or you have to pay for seeds?

There is one auto that takes 3-4 months from pop to finish. Is that enough time to make useful seed?
 
Hmmm, well, so, is there any way to reliably grow your own cbd for medicine, with autos?

reliably not so much. you can make seed/plants that constantly hermie/self-seed. even some very well known land race strains will do this with not much prodding. it's not a desired trait. the plant puts the effort in to seed, not the bud you want.



Or you have to pay for seeds?


for now yes you do. it's not a knock you're not at that point.
a lot of growers go independent over time. most of it is rooted in photo reg genetics though.

the fem-photo/auto/auto-fem is bred in and stabilized over a few generations. and takes several strains etc. it's not purely a hobbyist thing.





There is one auto that takes 3-4 months from pop to finish. Is that enough time to make useful seed?


have at it.

edit : you might want to learn about silver thiosulfite and colloidial silver for making fems and selfing plants as well.
 
reliably not so much. you can make seed/plants that constantly hermie/self-seed. even some very well known land race strains will do this with not much prodding. it's not a desired trait. the plant puts the effort in to seed, not the bud you want.

for now yes you do. it's not a knock you're not at that point.
a lot of growers go independent over time. most of it is rooted in photo reg genetics though.

the fem-photo/auto/auto-fem is bred in and stabilized over a few generations. and takes several strains etc. it's not purely a hobbyist thing.

have at it.

edit : you might want to learn about silver thiosulfite and colloidial silver for making fems and selfing plants as well.

Thanks.
I did try strong colloidal silver one time.
She turned shemale, but she did not look healthy.
It looked like she got super stressed.
I guess part of me wonders if it can really be healthy long term, turning females into shemales by stressing them.

Also, if you are supposed to drench the bud sites, but water kills pollen, and the water gets everywhere when you drench, then how do you drench the bud sites, but keep the silver water from ruining the pollen?

I am not saying I did it right, but I took the flowers, and smeared them on the pistils, and got no seeds.
Probably I need some better technique (like everything else).
But I was not sure if it is ultimately healthy to stress and transgender the poor little girls, so I thought I should try regular seeds.

But it sounds like you think silver is better than regular seeds, from a viability point of view?
(But why would regular seeds be less viable than colloidal-silver-water seeds?)
 
Ok, time for a select general garden update.
I came upstairs yesterday, and noticed a few solo cups feeling light.
I pulled them out of the clear case, and there was still a little of what I would have termed "visible moisture" in there, but the bottom half of the cup was very dry, and I was not sure if some roots down in the bottom half of the cup had burned root hairs already, even though there was still a little moist soil visible in the cup.
So I had a hunch that maybe I am trying to make the poor little girls too dry (camel dry) before I water, and that maybe this is holding things up?
I also noticed that @Emilya and others continually add DynoMyco throughout their grow. My DynoMyco won't be here for another couple of months (maybe), but I have some liquid Orca that I thought you only added a little at the start of the grow. I did not know that you continue to add it throughout the grow!
So on a hunch, I did a quick watering of molasses, calmag, liquid Orca Mycos, and BioNova Grow fertilizer, and watered through the worm castings. And now this morning, four of the plants are visibly much bigger. (I was very surprised!)
For example, here is Kong Super Glue #1, who is now wider than her cup!

gg1.jpg


And here is Kong Super Glue #2, along with two new baby LSD Autos, doing well (and I hope to Malawi ferment the buds when they come ready).

kong2.jpg


Here are two still-scraggly Purple Kush Autos. I don't know why they are still scraggly, but they are starting to put forth pistils. Only, she is much bigger today.

pk1.jpg


Her sister is also much bigger (but also still scraggly). Do you think I need to buy them a hair brush each?

pk2.jpg


The other three PK sisters all look better. They are all still very small for their age, for a number of reasons. (The soil got a little overcompacted, and I did not feed her or water her right. And, they also suffered from the cold, maybe a little stunting?)
She is a purple girl, and she is learning the gynmastics bar with a little LST. (She is still small. I wonder about pulling the plug and starting over, but maybe we will get a little taste with her? We will see.)

pk3.jpg


This is my Delicious Candy that I planted straight in a 5G (WAY too big!!). Now I know better. But she seems to be doing ok, considering she got way too cold, and I did not feed her right. She seems to be loving the worm castings! (I think to mix them straight in, in future batches.)
She is starting to grow 7 colas! And she smells good!

dc.jpg


Anyway, I was very encouraged to see Kong Super Glue and the Purple K's jump up so much! I see a correlation with the worm castings, the liquid myco, and the correct fertilizer, and not waiting *quite so long before watering.
I thought a lot about what @Emilya and others said, just go by the weight of the cup.
So cannabis in the wild maybe likes sprinkles when she is tiny, but then a good soak once a week, and then a couple of sprinkles in the meantime? I think I can probably mimic that environment.

With the indications that I may have my basics down now, I am trying to decide if I want to ride the existing crop out to harvest, or whether to pull the plug on the ones who are not doing so well, and start over.
I was able to buy a limited amount from a friend, which should tide me, but I am eager to get a real crop on the way, and I think I may know how to do it now.
GeoFlora and DynoMyco won't be here for another 2-3 months (or whatever), but Subcool's is at 60 days of fermentation this week, and I have lots of Orca. (I just thought you only applied it once at planting time! I did not know you need to re-apply it every few weeks.)

Plus, my @Azimuth - Jadam and @Emilya - Fermented Banana teas will be ready this week, so I could plant again with Subcool's in the Solo cups,
OR I could ride everything to harvest with worm castings, molasses, and Banana teas,
OR I could pull the two scraggly ones, and replant those two cups, and then ride everything else out to harvest before I replant (which is probably what I will do).
But I am excited that Subcool is ready!!
Is 60 days enough fermentation time?
Or do I really need longer?
 
I always heard it takes 3 months to "cook" the soil.

Ahhh, ok. Super-good to know.

So, that is good! So now I have a month to see what kind of growth to expect from the new combination of worm castings, calmag, molasses, continual myco, a better fertilizer, better soil, and closing the greenhouse up at night!
(Not closing the greenhouse up at night?? What was I thinking?!?!)

Thanks, @Emilya ! I am really learning a lot by following along with your grows!
 
She seems to be loving the worm castings!
Huh. Imagine that. ;)

But I am excited that Subcool is ready!!
Is 60 days enough fermentation time?
Or do I really need longer?
I've never grown with SubCool's soil, but the "enhanced" organic soils that need composting time is really about letting them assimilate and start to break down the inputs so you don't burn your plants. The soils will literally heat up from all of the microbe activity for a bit. So, just reach your hand down into the middle of the pile and make sure it is not too hot to put your plants into. If it has now cooled, it should be good to go!
 
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