New to Site - 14 Strains Under 2000 Watts in a 5x10 Tent

Cheers for the invite! Here ;)
 
TheCapn said:
Absolutely beautiful specimens you've raised there. Looks like some are in need of a topping or they will outgrow your tent!
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Hey Cap'n, good to have you here, and thank you! All of them have been topped several times. If you can see the white PVC poles sticking up vertically in the pics, that marks 2' off the ground including the pot. I will be adding the scrog screen onto the pvc poles when the girls get a little bigger so I can start weaving them. I plan on flipping to 12/12 when the screen is 50-75% filled in.
 
Hi Keegan, you asked for me to offer any advice I could in your invite, so here's one for you. If you are planning on scroging those ladies, I would suggest you soft train them now to get them flattened out, so they're ready for when you install your net. All you need to do is gently push down the arms as many times a day as you can & they'll eventually stay down. :)
 
Looking great Keegan420, looking great.
 
skunnymonster said:
Hi Keegan, you asked for me to offer any advice I could in your invite, so here's one for you. If you are planning on scroging those ladies, I would suggest you soft train them now to get them flattened out, so they're ready for when you install your net. All you need to do is gently push down the arms as many times a day as you can & they'll eventually stay down. :)
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Hey Skunny good to hear from you! I just went in to try this out, and I'm glad you brought it up. A couple of my strains already have very sturdy main chutes, that aren't bending how i would like. I will continue to do this daily until i can bend them how i want. Good looks man, you may have just saved me from a major headache! :thanks:

60cal said:
Looking great Keegan420, looking great.
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Thanks 60cal! Ive noticed you've been along for the ride for quite some time now, do you have a journal going I could peek at?
 
Quick update: I transplanted my 2x the white and 1x white russian into their 5 gallon pots but also mixed 1tbs per gal pot of Azomite as directed, so 5 tbs in each pot. I will be sprinkling some on top of the already potted in 5 gal girls before their next water. So all that is left is to transplant the grape dream in about a week then ill give it another week or so. Then the real party starts!

Quick question, I've read that giving your girls bloom nutrients in the last 2 weeks of veg can help kick start the flowering process once you initiate 12/12. Is this true or should i continue using my veg schedule until I flip?


Photo i took as the lights were turning on earlier today after the transplant.
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I give flower nutes one week before flip and I add red spectrum as well. It works for me. My video that I will be posting tonight will show what they look like one week in flower
 
I would only start to give your plants flowering nutrients after you switch to 12/12 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. You want to keep feeding vegetative nutrients as long as your plants are in vegetative growth otherwise your fan leaves will yellow very quickly in flower.
 
Another little tip to try is pinch bend (not sure what anyone else calls it) I'll be updating my journal with some pictures of the technique which I've used along with major defol.
To pinch bend I select where I want the stem to bend and use my thumb nail on the underside & my index & middle finger to the other side to support & push against. I then squeeze with whatever pressure is required to break the membrane structures inside the stem. (They probably have a name but I'm hands on & not botanically educated) :) I then use my index finger to bend the stem downwards whilst still pinching between my thumb & middle finger.
If the stems are new they are very soft so extreme car is required not to squeeze & bend to hard & fast, you'll snap them off. If they are tough you have to squeeze with all your mite & you might have to pulse bend (I just made this term up) to ease them over & finally bend.
Doing this stunts any growth above the bend & encourages bud sites below it :)
 
CO Finest said:
I give flower nutes one week before flip and I add red spectrum as well. It works for me. My video that I will be posting tonight will show what they look like one week in flower
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Is there actual proof that giving bloom nutes a week before actually kick starts flowering? Or any personal notes you may have proving that the nutrients flowered the plant faster?

KingJohnC said:
I would only start to give your plants flowering nutrients after you switch to 12/12 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. You want to keep feeding vegetative nutrients as long as your plants are in vegetative growth otherwise your fan leaves will yellow very quickly in flower.
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Interesting, kind of contradictive to what COfinest said above. Can you go further into detail? Couldn't you just supplement the plant with grow nuts in flower if and when you see nitrogen def.?
 
bigjack said:
that tent is going to be packed:goodjob:
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:thankyou: Feel free to pull up a chair, the parties just getting started!

skunnymonster said:
Another little tip to try is pinch bend (not sure what anyone else calls it) I'll be updating my journal with some pictures of the technique which I've used along with major defol.
To pinch bend I select where I want the stem to bend and use my thumb nail on the underside & my index & middle finger to the other side to support & push against. I then squeeze with whatever pressure is required to break the membrane structures inside the stem. (They probably have a name but I'm hands on & not botanically educated) :) I then use my index finger to bend the stem downwards whilst still pinching between my thumb & middle finger.
If the stems are new they are very soft so extreme car is required not to squeeze & bend to hard & fast, you'll snap them off. If they are tough you have to squeeze with all your mite & you might have to pulse bend (I just made this term up) to ease them over & finally bend.
Doing this stunts any growth above the bend & encourages bud sites below it :)
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I believe what you are referring to is called supper cropping, or maybe LSTing? Although LST is more tying over branches. Someone else feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Keegan420 said:
Is there actual proof that giving bloom nutes a week before actually kick starts flowering? Or any personal notes you may have proving that the nutrients flowered the plant faster?



Interesting, kind of contradictive to what COfinest said above. Can you go further into detail? Couldn't you just supplement the plant with grow nuts in flower if and when you see nitrogen def.?
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I showed what my plants did in my last video. If I need to show start to finish I will.
 
CO Finest said:
I showed what my plants did in my last video. If I need to show start to finish I will.
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Had to rewatch it. You talked about it in part 4 but I had to go look at part 3 to see the difference in stretch. But you are right the stretch was extremely minimal. Like 8-10 inches would you say? Hard to tell from the video. Also I'm wondering, you are under led. Does that make a difference for how much a plant stretches compared to hps?
 
Keegan420 said:
Had to rewatch it. You talked about it in part 4 but I had to go look at part 3 to see the difference in stretch. But you are right the stretch was extremely minimal. Like 8-10 inches would you say? Hard to tell from the video. Also I'm wondering, you are under led. Does that make a difference for how much a plant stretches compared to hps?
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Ok here is some stretch info. Lights are important yes but one of the main factor is the temps in the first three too four week of flower. When you first go into flower and the final stretch begins to help keep tight flower spacing is keeping temps the same from lights off too lights on. That is over looked by many growers. After the stretch is done then you can allow the temps to be different. Now the ? you have about Hps and led. Its all on the skill of the grower and knowing your lights. I have two other grow rooms running 1k Mh and Hps. The big differences is if you see buds not packing on or if temps are right and you see the flower spacing is getting to big then with led you can get lights nice and lower or back off the red spectrum a little. Ok I will share my trick here. I was going to let the cat out of the bag soon in a video but here you go. If you have temps right and using the right size led for your foot print and your light allows you to control some red spectrum You can turn red off or down and that will also help keep stretch a little tighter to build them super tight buds during the final stretch stage, Then turn red back on to get them buds fat . Now remember if temps are to high you will get airy soft buds. With Hps it is what it is,you do have temps to control. Yes you are right about the stretch being 8-10" right now. I am trying to get them at 10-12" each. I like 1/8 or more ounce buds. The more you learn to deal with temp and light control the more control you will have over your grow. I hope this helps. I am well medicated and ready to take a nap. I wish you the best
 
Top tip CO, your knowledge knows no bounds. I've been given a tip off Light Addict for keeping the node spacing tight & that is to spread open the new growth to allow light to it. I put it into practice & it does work but it would be too time consuming with many plants or a big scrog :)
 
CO Finest said:
Ok here is some stretch info. Lights are important yes but one of the main factor is the temps in the first three too four week of flower. When you first go into flower and the final stretch begins to help keep tight flower spacing is keeping temps the same from lights off too lights on. That is over looked by many growers. After the stretch is done then you can allow the temps to be different. Now the ? you have about Hps and led. Its all on the skill of the grower and knowing your lights. I have two other grow rooms running 1k Mh and Hps. The big differences is if you see buds not packing on or if temps are right and you see the flower spacing is getting to big then with led you can get lights nice and lower or back off the red spectrum a little. Ok I will share my trick here. I was going to let the cat out of the bag soon in a video but here you go. If you have temps right and using the right size led for your foot print and your light allows you to control some red spectrum You can turn red off or down and that will also help keep stretch a little tighter to build them super tight buds during the final stretch stage, Then turn red back on to get them buds fat . Now remember if temps are to high you will get airy soft buds. With Hps it is what it is,you do have temps to control. Yes you are right about the stretch being 8-10" right now. I am trying to get them at 10-12" each. I like 1/8 or more ounce buds. The more you learn to deal with temp and light control the more control you will have over your grow. I hope this helps. I am well medicated and ready to take a nap. I wish you the best
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Getting temps with lights on/off I can do now with my ac and ventilation figured out. You say you dial back the red spectrum for first week or so of flower, could I use my mh bulb during first week of flower then switch to hps and get the same effect?
 
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