New Moon Over Guawi: A High Brix Journey

I went ahead and performed the C-Section at 10:30 this morning. 4 Days would of been at 5:45 tonight
so approximately done at 3.5 days. May have been a BREECH Birth since last time my Guawi came up
by the 3rd day.

I may have gotten impatient but they were both still down at least a half inch. I uncovered until
I found the shoot and re-covered with just a very light covering of soil. Lets see if I did a good or
bad thing :)
 
Oh well looks like I saved the Malawi but I was a bit late on the Guawi seems she
was growing but the soil must of eaten the top leafs I only found a dark brown shoot
so pulled it, the roots were nice and white but nothing to build with "NO SOLAR PANELS"

The soil may have been to moist and was making it difficult for the shoot to PUSH THRU
and the extended time in the wet soil may have been the reason for the dead shoot.

This time I will do the same routine but only cover the seed with DRY Straight Pro-Mix
hopefully giving her a easy upward travel. I will also start the dig if I dont see anything
by the 3rd day.

Some Pictures of the PROOF of LIFE on the MALAWI
&
The Brown Shoot death of the GUAWI.

malawi_up_1.jpg



guawi_dead_2.jpg
 
OK Just noticed a VERY STRANGE reaction.

While improving my VORTEX (Golden Ratio) STRUCTURED WATER barrel I found the
AIR STONE has stopped ? checked Air Pump and all working fine, pulled the Air stone
out and it started working, PUT Back and NOT WORKING ? Finally realized the
AIR STONE only works in the first 12 - 16 inches of Water at the top of the barrel ?

Has this somehow increased the density of the Water. I know it would pump air at the bottom
of the barrel when I first put it in, but cant remember checking since the addition of the VORTEX ?

Need to take Uncle for blood test so wont be able to research this until I get back

EDIT: OK I'm back and just found this

Question
"How deep can I put an aeration tube from a compressor to aerate a water tank?"

Answer
"Back pressure from the water is very low….use 0.433 psig per foot of depth.
For comparison, the average person can blow at least 7 psig."

I find this interesting since when my AIR STONE is sitting at the BOTTOM of the
barrel (4 foot depth) I cant blow thru the Hose, with all my pressure it wont go thru,
but as I raise the stone to within 1.5 feet from the surface I can blow thru it and
create bubbles. ?

Back to researching this

EDIT:EDIT: Another Way to see it

"key is to have more pressure in the aeration tube than static water pressure that you'd have at the point of depth that you'd be at. So if you had a 10ft tank of water = 120″inches which would be equal 4.33 psi. So you'd have to be at a greater pressure to get flow through the areation tube. And depending on how much arreation you wanted (solids etc, size of the tank) you can adjust the pressure it up or down as needed, or the depth of the areation tube."

I'm at less than half that depth and cant blow thru the Air Stone :hmmmm:
 
neikodog said:
That's a very thin leaved seedling! That must be the Old Killer pheno. If so she's a beast and will stretch quite a bit.
Click to expand...

Its the Purple Haze X Malawi from ACE (limited release)
LISTED GENETICS by ACE = Purple Haze X NEW Malawi Killer

I expect to do battle with Her, I also expect My WILL, will win in the end :laughtwo:

SIDE NOTE: Looks like my New 4 x 4 tent will get some new lights.
Gotta stop looking at CL

Got the PAIR for 250.00 and PROGRAMMABLE for Sun Rise/Sun Set, kinda

1849982


1849983
 
Just got finished testing all functions of MY new lights

One thing that bothered me was this statement in the Instruction Book
"- Timer controls both channels on/off together. Cannot turn VEG and BLOOM channel on/off separately. "

After thinking about it for awhile it occurred to me that I can just set EITHER the VEG or BLOOM power to
ZERO and I can then use the timer control to run them separately if I want.

My thought is to use them both in a DAISY CHAIN but only run the VEG or BLOOM lights
individually.

Basically run only HALF the LIGHTS for each panel. This should DOUBLE the coverage at the
same elect cost (both lights but only running half the lights on each)

I also like the fact I can program the power for each the VEG and BLOOM lights separately and run
them both together if I find it works better ?
 
neikodog said:
Ok, I missed the Purple Haze. You will do battle for sure. @SmokeyMcFly was running it and I believe he lost his battle. She will explode in flower.
Click to expand...

Ah My Bad, I dont think I listed the FULL breeder name at the start ;)

Thanks for the heads up on @SmokeyMcFly's run I will have to go
look into his grow and see if I can pick up some clues for a Defensive
to help keep things under control

EDIT: Just back from his journal, It looks like I will INDEED have a battle of wills in my future
 
Last grow I was able to keep the GUAWI well under control

Maybe it has something to do with Using the SCROG NET, seems I can keep things better under control.
Probably has something to do with the fact the plant gets BRANCHED extensively to create
the spread, thinking maybe having all the energy distributed over many branches keeps
the available stretch power spread out
 
Looks like a few days for the PH x MALAWIs first Dunk.

TARGET POT DRY WEIGHT is 31.5 oz to 35.5 oz (This will leave 1.0 to 4 oz of liquid still in pot).

Last Night (lights on) The Malawi pot weight was 39.9 oz OR another 4.4 oz of liquid weight needs to be Lost.

PH X MALAWI Process so far:
JULY
9th Germination Pot Dunk and DROP
13th I went digging and UN-Coverd her
14th up-and open
15th Started LST
I had to start another GUAWI seed so I left the TEMP High
This may have effected the MALAWI

GUAWI Process so far:
JULY
14th The Guawi Seed went in a Root Riot Plug at 8:25pm
17th still no sign of the Guawi ? Dug in the "root riot" plug a bit and found her
..........very near the top, opened up the hole some so lights could shine on her.
18th up at 10:30am
 
After checking MY new VP600-S VIPERSPECTRA LED light I noticed a bit of heat coming off them.
These are 5W each (120 total) so runs hotter than the 3W.

Dont want to take out my 400w HID and disconnect all the Air cooling Fan lines so
thought I would do a TEST RUN over my washing machine before removing things
for no reason (heat with this light Might be an issue)

I Positioned the light at the 22" inch recommended flower distance above the washing machine.
I now have a temp gauge sitting directly below center of the light at 22",
waiting for the temp reading to stabilize. Once that happens I will turn
on the light 100% and monitor the Temp change at 22"

Checking my 400W Sealed Air Cooled MH at 22 inches and I dont feel any
heat at all so hoping this is not a BUST temp reduction wise ?

Wish there was a way to AIR COOL the light. Kinda kicked around the idea of
putting it in a large RAPTOR hood WITH Air Cooling but then remembered I would
have to seal the Hood for the Air Cooling and that would effect the PAR since I
would be running it through another glass lens :(

Anyway I should know how to proceed in a few hours

EDIT:
This does not look good at all temp at 22" below that light is now PLUS 11 Deg,
and Rising. I added a fan to blow at the Light to try and help but still RISING Temp.

LED Lights may run cooler than HID, BUT Once you add the SEALED AIR COOLING
option to the HID I don't see LED being cooler, maybe even hotter. No way to cool
them further as I can see

I dont see a way to run 1 in a 2 x 4 x 7 foot tent, Maybe when I open the 4 X 4 X 7 ?

UPDATE:
After positioning a couple fans like I have them in my tent, blowing near the center
I can see the temp going down :headbanger:

Not enough time left on the day light schedule to let things stabilize but looks like
it may indeed work in my small tent :yummy:
 
Craig's List
USED EQUIPMENT WARNING
​
Apparently the Woman I purchased these lights from had a
FUNGUS GNAT problem

After turning them on, positioned over my Nice WHITE Washer & Dryer I noticed
a bunch of black spots on the tops of the Washer ? After Closer inspection
I Determine they were DEAD (I hope) FUNGUS GNATs :rip: that got blown out
by the 4 onboard light Fans

Looks like I will be running my LADY BUG Home again. Also put up 5 sticky Strips
all around the New Light in the laundry room and more in my Tent, will be monitoring
for any sign they were still alive.
 
Gazoo said:
Ah My Bad, I dont think I listed the FULL breeder name at the start ;)

Thanks for the heads up on @SmokeyMcFly's run I will have to go
look into his grow and see if I can pick up some clues for a Defensive
to help keep things under control

EDIT: Just back from his journal, It looks like I will INDEED have a battle of wills in my future
Click to expand...

Flip it the second it gets above ground, top early and more than once if you can, and up pot as needed along the way. I grew it pre flower like I do all my plants and it was epic mistake as you all have seen :rip:

Gl I’m sure it can be done just not the way I tried...

:passitleft:
 
SmokeyMcFly said:
Flip it the second it gets above ground, top early and more than once if you can, and up pot as needed along the way. I grew it pre flower like I do all my plants and it was epic mistake as you all have seen :rip:

Gl I’m sure it can be done just not the way I tried...

:passitleft:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice it much appreciated. I kinda wanted to try it the way I did the Guawi,
NO TOPPING, LST Twisted around the POT, and Rim Mount SCROG Net. probably be a mistake
and I may need to change plans as things progress
but want to see if my will can overcome hers

BTW I started the LST at day 2 above ground :)
 
Gazoo said:
Thanks for the advice it much appreciated. I kinda wanted to try it the way I did the Guawi,
NO TOPPING, LST Twisted around the POT, and Rim Mount SCROG Net. probably be a mistake
and I may need to change plans as things progress
but want to see if my will can overcome hers

BTW I started the LST at day 2 above ground :)
Click to expand...

That could work really well as long as you have the room to deal with the main continuing to grow throughout flowering and a way to deal with the pot sizes changing throughout the grow. Also keep in mind some of the branches may end up longer than most normal plants are tall so give them enough room to grow also.

It will be epic one way or another :laughtwo:

I can’t wait to see how it turns out :popcorn::nomo:
 
SmokeyMcFly said:
That could work really well as long as you have the room to deal with the main continuing to grow throughout flowering and a way to deal with the pot sizes changing throughout the grow. Also keep in mind some of the branches may end up longer than most normal plants are tall so give them enough room to grow also.

It will be epic one way or another :laughtwo:

I can’t wait to see how it turns out :popcorn::nomo:
Click to expand...

Please do keep an eye out here :thanks:

BTW I only up pot once from the 1 gal plastic to the 10 gal plastic Scrog pot. Hoping that my attempt to increase
branching to an excess will help distribute the stretch power (too many tops for her to keep up with :idea: )
Will try and delay the MAJOR RED Spectrum as long as I can after the start of flower, I usually wait until
the flower stretch is finished but may not see that with her :eek:

Time will tell ;)

OK Just for giggles here she is with some Very Early LST in my attempt to get BRANCHING at the Round leaf
very first node ?

malawi_7a.jpg
 
Still Working on the ViparSpectra VT600-S lights BASE LINE

Interesting I have found two different advertised PPFD READING charts ?
I Really hate that :thedoubletake:
both_1.jpg


Since I only have a LUX Meter I have to use the on-line converter.

INTERESTING NOTE: If I choose the "NATURAL DAYLIGHT 6500K Option"
to Convert from, The results are very close to the 2nd chart above.

HOWEVER When USING the
"Red + Blue + White LED 450 + 650nm +3500K"
I get better than advertised readings OH SNAP Just noticed these charts are for 24" readings,
I used 22", Accounts for the higher readings.

600W-6_2.jpg


I also did some contrast adjustments on the light shinning on the white board and
can see the CENTER is a bit forward and not directly under the center of the light :)
Can also see the BLEND is fairly uniform within the 12 inch square under the light

par_check_2.jpg




Home made 12" TARGET​


par_check_3.jpg



Photo below has had the contrast adjusted to bring out the center of the focus Area.
Center is a bit Lower & left of actual Center,
Actual readings confirm this.
​


par_saturation_1.jpg



This one shows a fairly good blend overall
But it is obvious the RED is more concentrated in the Middle​

par_saturation_1a.jpg
 
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