New Moon Over Guawi: A High Brix Journey

dajerm119 said:
Or turn the green on during the lights on period for X many day... until the desired stretch is achieved?
You could be on to something there, for those stubborn ones that just don’t wanna spread out!
Nice post!!
Click to expand...

I still need to figure out if this actually works with CANNABIS, hard to be sure since its not a
on and off thing, its just less or better. Hoping I can see a change in the root temp with and without
the green light at BRIXing for a clue
 
Killerbudz said:
Look at you sticking to rules and guidelines and stuff... Smoke it, smoke it, smoke it. Haha
Click to expand...

If I did not have some stash left from the last grow believe me it would have been tested a week ago :)
Looks like It will settle in at very close to 3 Zs so not real happy with the yield but hoping the quality will
make up for it. Supposedly using UV will cause shorter buds but more trichs :) so less product but more
power.

Read a lot of really cool/interesting study's on UV and light receipts but notice when I post it all I
scare away the few followers I have for a few days, suspect its just to much to read and not as interesting
to others i suppose :laugh:
 
Gazoo said:
If I did not have some stash left from the last grow believe me it would have been tested a week ago :)
Looks like It will settle in at very close to 3 Zs so not real happy with the yield but hoping the quality will
make up for it. Supposedly using UV will cause shorter buds but more trichs :) so less product but more
power.

Read a lot of really cool/interesting study's on UV and light receipts but notice when I post it all I
scare away the few followers I have for a few days, suspect its just to much to read and not as interesting
to others i suppose :laugh:
Click to expand...
I will admit I'm not a light nut, so efficiency and output and lumens don't matter much to me lol. I'm not trying to replicate the sun and just glad the little light I have works :laugh:
 
Hey Gazoo! I just got my Hi Brix journal off the ground and your presence is missed man!

I purchased a new light recently and as I was reading about spectrums and what not I took note of the green spectrum that is present in the Perfect Sun light I got. Read a little about how green is really perceived by the plants and that it may not be a completely wasted part of full spectrum lighting. Sounds like you already discovered that though ;)

Cheers buddy and looking forward to that smoke report!
 
Archiweedies said:
Hey Gazoo! I just got my Hi Brix journal off the ground and your presence is missed man!

I purchased a new light recently and as I was reading about spectrums and what not I took note of the green spectrum that is present in the Perfect Sun light I got. Read a little about how green is really perceived by the plants and that it may not be a completely wasted part of full spectrum lighting. Sounds like you already discovered that though ;)

Cheers buddy and looking forward to that smoke report!
Click to expand...

Hey there Archi! I hope Gazoo doesn’t mind me jumping in here...

I think we were concerned with the possibility that green light might cause stoma to close up, therefore not taking up the foliars as efficiently . It’s inconclusive as to whether or not green light does or does not close stoma, so I was just gonna steer clear for now. I bet green light does have its own benefits though. Maybe it could just be turned off the day of foliars...
:passitleft:
 
dajerm119 said:
Hey there Archi! I hope Gazoo doesn’t mind me jumping in here...

I think we were concerned with the possibility that green light might cause stoma to close up, therefore not taking up the foliars as efficiently . It’s inconclusive as to whether or not green light does or does not close stoma, so I was just gonna steer clear for now. I bet green light does have its own benefits though. Maybe it could just be turned off the day of foliars...
:passitleft:
Click to expand...

Thanks Dajerm for the clarification. I might have something useful yet to add to the topic. I’m not sure (I’ve honestly not done a lot of foliar) whether you want stomata open or closed for Foliar feeding. I assume we want it open. I can’t say for certain about the light spectrum opening and closing the stomata but I know we can control it with VPD. When the plant is in the VPD sweet spot it’s stomata open wide and transpire as much water as possible. It basically becomes a big straw.
This info could be helpful for timing foliars maybe?
 
dajerm119 said:
Hey there Archi! I hope Gazoo doesn’t mind me jumping in here...

I think we were concerned with the possibility that green light might cause stoma to close up, therefore not taking up the foliars as efficiently . It’s inconclusive as to whether or not green light does or does not close stoma, so I was just gonna steer clear for now. I bet green light does have its own benefits though. Maybe it could just be turned off the day of foliars...
:passitleft:
Click to expand...


Thanks DJ Exactly

Its not completely understood YET :) I choose to keep it off before and during the BRIXing, hope
to get some better readings as I go forward. Will start recording how fast & how High the temps
increase following the BRIX . If I do a One week BRIX UNDER the Green, and the NEXT week without the Green,
over time I may be able to see a pattern to help clue me in ?

Archiweedies said:
Thanks Dajerm for the clarification. I might have something useful yet to add to the topic. I’m not sure (I’ve honestly not done a lot of foliar) whether you want stomata open or closed for Foliar feeding. I assume we want it open. I can’t say for certain about the light spectrum opening and closing the stomata but I know we can control it with VPD. When the plant is in the VPD sweet spot it’s stomata open wide and transpire as much water as possible. It basically becomes a big straw.
This info could be helpful for timing foliars maybe?
Click to expand...

Absolutely Useful. I have held the VPD Zone for some weeks now :) thanks for giving me that tool :high-five:
While we are talking VPD. How do you get your LEAF to AIR TEMP lower than 0 ? I have moved my canopy
down to 24" from my previous 18" (400W HPS) and the best I can get is A zero difference. Works fine and
still in the corrected zone for the ZERO diff. but I think I remember reading the best is -2 deg F
 
Gazoo said:
Thanks DJ Exactly

Its not completely understood YET :) I choose to keep it off before and during the BRIXing, hope
to get some better readings as I go forward. Will start recording how fast & how High the temps
increase following the BRIX . If I do a One week BRIX UNDER the Green, and the NEXT week without the Green,
over time I may be able to see a pattern to help clue me in ?



Absolutely Useful. I have held the VPD Zone for some weeks now :) thanks for giving me that tool :high-five:
While we are talking VPD. How do you get your LEAF to AIR TEMP lower than 0 ? I have moved my canopy
down to 24" from my previous 18" (400W HPS) and the best I can get is A zero difference. Works fine and
still in the corrected zone for the ZERO diff. but I think I remember reading the best is -2 deg F
Click to expand...
Yes great question Gazoo. It’s my belief this is possible with a fan keeping the air between the lamps and the canopy blowing. The only way I can achieve -2 at the canopy is with LEDs. Maybe a cool tube can achieve cooler temps at the canopy.
I think if you can achieve zero at the canopy you can just use whichever vpd chart you want but shift your actual temp up a degree or two based on what type of chart your using.

I really hope that made sense haha! Oh you’re welcome Gazoo! Are you finding keeping your VPD easier to lock in than you previously thought possible?
 
Archiweedies said:
Yes great question Gazoo. It’s my belief this is possible with a fan keeping the air between the lamps and the canopy blowing. The only way I can achieve -2 at the canopy is with LEDs. Maybe a cool tube can achieve cooler temps at the canopy.
I think if you can achieve zero at the canopy you can just use whichever vpd chart you want but shift your actual temp up a degree or two based on what type of chart your using.

I really hope that made sense haha! Oh you’re welcome Gazoo! Are you finding keeping your VPD easier to lock in than you previously thought possible?
Click to expand...

Made Perfect sense and I was actually to lazy to find a zero chart so I simply move the point 4 places to the right
on the -2 or 2 places to the right if I use the -1 chart :) could not find a zero in that format :)

Its actually easier to hold since it falls into the 75/77F day temp and 69/71F night range @ 49/52 RH.
This is winter so not to bad.
 
Archiweedies said:
Thanks Dajerm for the clarification. I might have something useful yet to add to the topic. I’m not sure (I’ve honestly not done a lot of foliar) whether you want stomata open or closed for Foliar feeding. I assume we want it open. I can’t say for certain about the light spectrum opening and closing the stomata but I know we can control it with VPD. When the plant is in the VPD sweet spot it’s stomata open wide and transpire as much water as possible. It basically becomes a big straw.
This info could be helpful for timing foliars maybe?
Click to expand...
I've seen people say we want to foliar feed after lights on. So normally I see a humidity spike after lights on, is that due to the stomata being open and the leaves transpiring?
 
Killerbudz said:
I've seen people say we want to foliar feed after lights on. So normally I see a humidity spike after lights on, is that due to the stomata being open and the leaves transpiring?
Click to expand...


The opening or closing of stomata occur in response to signals from the external environment.

Light = Stomata open (and maybe according to the MIX of light at sun-rise)

Dark = Stomata close

High CO2 inside leaf = stomata close

Low CO2 inside leaf = stomata open

Drought stress = stomata close

taken from the following thread

How the stomata works and how it can help us.

"Closure of stomata by drought is caused by abscisic acid, a plant hormone that is synthesized in response to drought. Abscisic acid overrides other signals and closes stomata when saving water is more important than photosynthesis.

Light causes stomates to open. The minimum light level for opening of stomates in most plants is 1/1000 to 1/30 of full sunlight, just enough to cause some net photosynthesis. Blue light (430-460nm) is nearly 10 times as effective as red light (630-680nm). The wavelengths that are effective in the red part of the spectrum are the same as those that are effective in photosynthesis ie is absorbed by chlorophyll. However, the blue light effect is quite independent of photosynthesis. Photosynthesis will change intercellular CO2 concentrations and may have its effect through number.

Potassium also plays a large role in the Guard Cells function in opening the stomata.

Blue-light wavelengths of daylight, detected by zeaxanthin (a carotenoid) activate proton pumps in the guard cell membranes, which proceed to extrude protons from the cytoplasm of the cell; this creates a "proton motive force" (an electrochemical gradient across the membrane) which opens voltage operated channels in the membrane, allowing positive K ions to flow passively into the cell, from the surrounding tissues. Chloride ions also enter the cell, with their movement coupled to the re-entry of some of the extruded protons (Cl/H symport) to act as a counter-ions to the potassium. Water passively follows these ions into the guard cells, and as their tugidity increases so the stomatal pore opens, in the morning. As the day progresses the osmotic role of potassium is supplanted by that of sucrose, which can be generated by several means, including starch hydrolysis and photosynthesis. At the end of the day (by which time the potassium accumulation has dissipated) it seems it is the fall in he concentration of sucrose that initiates the loss of water and reduced turgor pressure, which causes closure of the stomatal pore.

ABA also seems to trigger a loss of K ions from guard cells. Some workers suggest that in some species, ABA alters turgor pressure without changing solute potential or water potential.

Potassium is the "plant-preferred" ion for maintaining the water content and hence the turgor (rigidity) of each cell, a biophysical role. A large concentration of potassium in the cell sap (i.e. the liquid inside the cell) creates conditions that cause water to move into the cell (osmosis) through the porous cell wall (Box1).

Turgid cells maintain the leaf’s vigour so that photosynthesis proceeds efficiently.

The plant controls the opening /closing of the stomata by regulating the concentration of potassium in the guard cells. A large concentration of potassium ensures turgid cells and open stomata. When the potassium in the guard cells is lowered, they become limp and the stomata close. "

Article study links
Potassium Involvement in Stomatal Movements of Paphiopedilum
Guard Cells Extrude Protons Prior to Stomatal Opening—A Study using Fluorescence Microscopy and pH Micro-electrodes
Light-dependent Influx and Efflux of Potassium of Guard Cells during Stomatal Opening and Closing


Ha:laugh: that should scare away the rest :hug:
 
dajerm119 said:
Yea, you know I’m still here! I love reading that stuff! It’s even more fun when you understand what they’re saying... which I do. Like reading medical studies, I like to read sports journals for fun. Studies done with exercises etc... all cool fun stuff.
Click to expand...

Great to hear, I find all this FASCINATING and cant get enough of it. The Studys & information is available
just need to find it and put in a form that fits

Reading the second article listed above I think we should BRIX the day after a water. Keeping the 10 day
spacing between brixing of course.

This is why I think it could be better
" When water pressure is high, the stomata open. So, if the plant has plenty of water, it automatically tends to keep its stomata open. If it's short of water, it automatically closes them. Yes, that slows down photosynthesis, but it also prevents the plant from wilting and dying due to dehydration.
 
Nice, I have noticed that the plants do seem to respond much better if they are either already nice and wet, or if you spray a day or two after watering. And on the other hand, if the pot is dry they either dont seem to respond, or seem to respond slightly negatively.
I used some Snake Oil the other day on the Destroyer, didn't realize the pot was already almost dry. No noticeable difference to the plant. So I may try one more time in a few more days, tis time making sure the pot is nice and wet!
 
dajerm119 said:
Nice, I have noticed that the plants do seem to respond much better if they are either already nice and wet, or if you spray a day or two after watering. And on the other hand, if the pot is dry they either dont seem to respond, or seem to respond slightly negatively.
I used some Snake Oil the other day on the Destroyer, didn't realize the pot was already almost dry. No noticeable difference to the plant. So I may try one more time in a few more days, tis time making sure the pot is nice and wet!
Click to expand...

Be careful with the Snake Oil, its recommend to not use more than TWICE or root burn can result
 
Back
Top Bottom