Sweethook. The speed controller is super easy. You plug the electrical cord for the fan into a socket on the controller, and plug the electrical cord for the speed controller into the electricitity.
ok thank you peejay ...
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Sweethook. The speed controller is super easy. You plug the electrical cord for the fan into a socket on the controller, and plug the electrical cord for the speed controller into the electricitity.
I just read through that last post. It all makes perfect sense to me but I'm not sure anyone else can make hide nor hair of it!
I just read through that last post. It all makes perfect sense to me but I'm not sure anyone else can make hide nor hair of it!
I just read through that last post. It all makes perfect sense to me but I'm not sure anyone else can make hide nor hair of it!
If a fan is necessary to move air through the veg tent you'd mentioned an inexpensive inline duct fan. Most of the inexpensive ones only move about 50 cfm. A better bet would be something like you see in the picture of my little tent. It's a 4.5" axial fan that moves 120cfm. Powerful compared to the inlines and cheaper, too.
Look at this FAN.
Ok, Smoke. No big deal about the vents only being on the top of the 2x4. I would have been surprised if there had been. My 2x4 is not up right now but I don't think it has vent sleeves on the bottom either. My 4x4 does, but not the 2x4.
Obviously, when you get the 2x4 inside the big tent you'll get inside the big tent with the doors closed so it's very dark, then turn on the light in the 2x4 and see where you have light leaks. Then you can do things to plug the leaks.
I run 8 T-5 bulbs (2 x 2' foot 4 bulb units) in a 2 foot width tent. The tent is 2x2 as opposed to you 4x2 but your fixtures are twice as long. Same basic light intensity per sq ft. I use that little tent for seedlings and clones.
When I first put that little tent up I didn't think I'd have to do any active (fan driven) venting since T-5s run cool. Unfortunately, when I turned on the lights the temperature inside the closed up tent quickly went up to 100-105 degrees. Ouch. I added a tiny fan extracting air and the temps quickly dropped to a degree or two above ambient room temperature.
That's why we have to give some thought to moving air through the veg tent. I don't think it will need to have tons of air movement, but it will need some.
In a veg tent we don't care if there are light leaks. In flower it can become a big issue if too much light gets to the plants during lights out. It can cause the flowering plants to go hermie and you don't want that. There will be ~ 6 hours a day that the lights are on in the veg tent but off in the flower side.
When the flowering lights are on you can just have the front of the veg tent open and a regular fan like the one you have in the bookcase moving air. You would have to go in there every day at flowering lights out and close the veg tent up tight as a drum. And, you'd still have the issue of it getting too hot in the veg tent, maybe. The T-5 you got has a switch which turns off half the bulbs. You might could use that if there are heat problems. Frankly, it would be better if the veg tent ran cool by moving air through from outside the big tent, through the veg tent, and dumped into the big tent - all without leaking light into the flower area while the flowering lights are off and the veg lights are on.
Since the 2x4 only has vent sleeves on top you could use flexible ducting passing through the vent sleeve and down into the veg tent. It would not be a problem making the joints between the sleeves and ducting light proof. They're designed for that.
The down side to drawing in air from the top like that is that the area between the ceiling and the big tent will be quite a few degrees warmer than the air at floor level.
I'm thinking that the best option is to make a light and air proof gasket where the back of the veg tent butts up to the big tent. The velcro vents can then be opened on the back of the veg tent and the big tent in the gasketed space. Does that make sense? Light escaping from the 2x4 vents would be contained in the gasketed space. Think duct tape or similar.
Ok. That gives air a way in with no light leaks. Now we have to get the air out. Out going air can either get dumped into the big tent or, it can be pulled with a little fan on the roof of big ten through flexible ducting and dumped into the room. I kinda like dumping it into the big tent. It remains to be seen if the big inline fan will generate enough negative pressure in the big tent to pull air through the veg tent. If it doesn't then you'll need to add an inexpensive inline fan to help pull the air through.
Take it easy on the back. Hey, that crawl space under your house may be a nice dark place to hang and dry your harvest. Have you thought of where you are going to dry your meds?
Ok, Smoke. No big deal about the vents only being on the top of the 2x4. I would have been surprised if there had been. My 2x4 is not up right now but I don't think it has vent sleeves on the bottom either. My 4x4 does, but not the 2x4.
Obviously, when you get the 2x4 inside the big tent you'll get inside the big tent with the doors closed so it's very dark, then turn on the light in the 2x4 and see where you have light leaks. Then you can do things to plug the leaks.
I run 8 T-5 bulbs (2 x 2' foot 4 bulb units) in a 2 foot width tent. The tent is 2x2 as opposed to you 4x2 but your fixtures are twice as long. Same basic light intensity per sq ft. I use that little tent for seedlings and clones.
When I first put that little tent up I didn't think I'd have to do any active (fan driven) venting since T-5s run cool. Unfortunately, when I turned on the lights the temperature inside the closed up tent quickly went up to 100-105 degrees. Ouch. I added a tiny fan extracting air and the temps quickly dropped to a degree or two above ambient room temperature.
That's why we have to give some thought to moving air through the veg tent. I don't think it will need to have tons of air movement, but it will need some.
In a veg tent we don't care if there are light leaks. In flower it can become a big issue if too much light gets to the plants during lights out. It can cause the flowering plants to go hermie and you don't want that. There will be ~ 6 hours a day that the lights are on in the veg tent but off in the flower side.
When the flowering lights are on you can just have the front of the veg tent open and a regular fan like the one you have in the bookcase moving air. You would have to go in there every day at flowering lights out and close the veg tent up tight as a drum. And, you'd still have the issue of it getting too hot in the veg tent, maybe. The T-5 you got has a switch which turns off half the bulbs. You might could use that if there are heat problems. Frankly, it would be better if the veg tent ran cool by moving air through from outside the big tent, through the veg tent, and dumped into the big tent - all without leaking light into the flower area while the flowering lights are off and the veg lights are on.
Since the 2x4 only has vent sleeves on top you could use flexible ducting passing through the vent sleeve and down into the veg tent. It would not be a problem making the joints between the sleeves and ducting light proof. They're designed for that.
The down side to drawing in air from the top like that is that the area between the ceiling and the big tent will be quite a few degrees warmer than the air at floor level.
I'm thinking that the best option is to make a light and air proof gasket where the back of the veg tent butts up to the big tent. The velcro vents can then be opened on the back of the veg tent and the big tent in the gasketed space. Does that make sense? Light escaping from the 2x4 vents would be contained in the gasketed space. Think duct tape or similar.
Ok. That gives air a way in with no light leaks. Now we have to get the air out. Out going air can either get dumped into the big tent or, it can be pulled with a little fan on the roof of big ten through flexible ducting and dumped into the room. I kinda like dumping it into the big tent. It remains to be seen if the big inline fan will generate enough negative pressure in the big tent to pull air through the veg tent. If it doesn't then you'll need to add an inexpensive inline fan to help pull the air through.
Take it easy on the back. Hey, that crawl space under your house may be a nice dark place to hang and dry your harvest. Have you thought of where you are going to dry your meds?
Sorry
I was just checking in to ask you guys for an opinion, But PJ, thank you so much for coming up with a plan for me on circulating the air in the smaller tent, and thought about what you said in the post and the sleeves on the tent. The intake holes will let the 4" duct fit all the way through, It will take a while to get the tent up anyways (since my son is getting his butt kicked at work and I just don't have heart to ask him do more more at the end of a bad day's he's had). But that would also give me a chance to save up and get a cheap inline fan from H.D. that looks like a garbage can with no lid or botton, is 4" in diameter and has a fan inside.
Anyways here my question I logged on for, I know these are tough plants, but when I check the clone from the top I saw this:
Than I checked underneath here:
Does this plant have enough roots to transplant it? I really don't want to do it today because my back sucks still. But let me know what you guys think about the clone and whether it should be transplanted right away o maybe tomorrow?
Thanks all of you, I'm signing off for a while to take it easy again and will check later to see if I got responses. Thanks again to all of you.
I have one of those cheap 4" inline fans from H.D. - they are almost useless junk. I recommend you don't buy one.
I was holding one in my hand about an hour ago debating whether to throw the whole thing away, or remove the plug, save the cord and throw the unit away. I decided to wait until tomorrow to decide.
The fan works as good as new - which means an old fashioned rubber band powered glider fan moves more air. Heck, a USB powered computer screen attached fan moves more air. Attaching fan blades to a hamster wheel would do more cooling.
Yes, Smoke, the clone can go into dirt anytime now but is fine in the cloner a bit longer, too.
Venting out the top will work fine. The most important thing, I think, is some sort of gasket that sequesters the velcro flaps so air going into the veg tent is coming from the room and not the big tent.
Is this the kind of fan you're talking about? This is a cheapo inline that I tried. I think it was only about $10 and then I had to wire a cord to it. Loud and weak it was quickly replaced by the little axial fan.
It's been in a closet since I tried it. Still have the receipt and keep forgetting to return it....
The closet for drying sounds ideal!
I'm pretty sure you're in your harvest window. It would be good to chop Harley or Casey (which ever looks most done) and get that Amnesia into flower.
By chopping one of the two early in the harvest window and letting the other go longer you'll learn a lot about the best time to harvest.
As always, there is no hurry on any of this.
I have one of those cheap 4" inline fans from H.D. - they are almost useless junk. I recommend you don't buy one.
I was holding one in my hand about an hour ago debating whether to throw the whole thing away, or remove the plug, save the cord and throw the unit away. I decided to wait until tomorrow to decide.
The fan works as good as new - which means an old fashioned rubber band powered glider fan moves more air. Heck, a USB powered computer screen attached fan moves more air. Attaching fan blades to a hamster wheel would do more cooling.
If you put the rubber/neoprene disks in all the holes, even when empty, you will have less water splashing and evaporation from the bucket.
A little pushed in didn't hurt the clone.
Can the clone be planted? - Absolutly, whenever you are ready. She has been probably ready to plant for 4-5 days.
MUST the clone be planted? Nope. You can wait weeks with no issues. After two weeks or so you will notice the roots getting thinner, longer, and possibly yellower, but this clone will transplant just fine - even if you leave her in there for a month or more.
Plant whenever you are ready. The clone will wait for you.