My First Journal, Kanno 26: I Will Grow 6 Critical Plants From Royal Queen Seeds

LOL @Jon! Sometimes that translator is a trip!

Morning Kanno! They look so good! What's that yellow & black thing hanging above your plants in the tent? I'd love to see pics of your trichs as well if you can post any. You'll have so much great weed to smoke soon :yahoo:
You're right with that translation, it's sometimes funny;). He can't compose coherent sentences much. And the thing hanging there @BubbaKush909 is a thermometer and a hygrometer;)
 
Hi everyone, so here I tried to take some photos of the trichome but they are not much;)

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Hi everyone, so I wanted to show you my experiment with one plant. In the end, I won't cut it, but I used a screw and drilled it into the plant. We'll see what it does I'll leave them for only two days and then they'll go to the ground so we'll see if it does anything;).
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Thanks to everyone for stopping, the end is near;).
 
Hi everyone, so here I tried to take some photos of the trichome but they are not much;)

CM220523-173735013.jpg


CM220523-173728012.jpg


CM220523-173720011.jpg


CM220523-173434005.jpg


CM220523-173426003.jpg
Lots of trics getting amberish hue but most of them are prob cloudy.
As your foliage is still in so good condition they wont just suddenly turn into ’full amber’.
When you start seeing your leaves quickly fading in color then will the trics as well :)

Hi everyone, so I wanted to show you my experiment with one plant. In the end, I won't cut it, but I used a screw and drilled it into the plant. We'll see what it does I'll leave them for only two days and then they'll go to the ground so we'll see if it does anything;).
IMG_20220524_100544.jpg
IMG_20220524_093707.jpg
IMG_20220524_093714.jpg
IMG_20220524_093757.jpg

Thanks to everyone for stopping, the end is near;).
Good work :D I bet she will be the first plant which starts to fade.
For even better results let her dry out and get droughted.
 
Spousta triků získává jantarový odstín, ale většina z nich je pravděpodobně zakalená.
Protože jsou vaše listy stále v tak dobrém stavu, že se jen tak náhle nezmění v „plný jantar“.
Když začnete vidět, že vaše listy rychle blednou, pak budou triky také:)


Dobrá práce :D Vsadím se, že bude první rostlinou, která začne blednout.
Pro ještě lepší výsledky ji nechte vyschnout a nechat se vyschnout.
That's exactly what I said to myself, I'll let them dry and we'll finish them:D.
 
Hi everyone, so I wanted to show you my experiment with one plant. In the end, I won't cut it, but I used a screw and drilled it into the plant. We'll see what it does I'll leave them for only two days and then they'll go to the ground so we'll see if it does anything;).
IMG_20220524_100544.jpg
IMG_20220524_093707.jpg
IMG_20220524_093714.jpg
IMG_20220524_093757.jpg

Thanks to everyone for stopping, the end is near;).
It looks so weird! Nice balls, @Kanno26! I'm inspired and may just drive a nail into Titan's stem in a few weeks. That doesn't look like it will hurt anything, and maybe the plant says WTF and makes you a bunch of trichomes in response. Hoping for you. You must be so damn excited for the harvest. Where/how are you drying them? In the tent?
 
It looks so weird! Nice balls, @Kanno26! I'm inspired and may just drive a nail into Titan's stem in a few weeks. That doesn't look like it will hurt anything, and maybe the plant says WTF and makes you a bunch of trichomes in response. Hoping for you. You must be so damn excited for the harvest. Where/how are you drying them? In the tent?
I'm very excited @Jon, the worst is the silence of the last few days to endure it:D. And I wonder what the screw will do to the plant. Otherwise, I dry the plants in a tent and then start another cycle, probably anas or roal biscuit. What humidity do you keep when drying plants?
 
What humidity do you keep when drying plants?
For the best possible slow/hang drying results aim for 18-20C and keep humidity somewhere between 45-55%.
If you can control the environments well enough I'd gradually change the temp & humidity.
Like first two days I'd keep them on 40-45% RH and when the outer surface starts to dry then gradually increase RH up to ~50-55% so they'll dry a bit more evenly before jarring. But thats already pretty fine-tuning :D you'll be more than fine if you just get the temps somewhere between 17-22C and RH 40-55%.

I assume you also bout to jar cure them? Theres lots of good curing guides on this forum how to maintain stable 60-63% RH in your jars and so on.

V
 
I'm very excited @Jon, the worst is the silence of the last few days to endure it:D. And I wonder what the screw will do to the plant. Otherwise, I dry the plants in a tent and then start another cycle, probably anas or roal biscuit. What humidity do you keep when drying plants?
Hi @Kanno26 - everyone has their own way, I personally like a cold dry, so I shoot for about 65 degrees and around 60% RH. The goal is to get them stabilized at 62% in the jars, so whatever works for you to get them there is what you want. I find the slower I can dry the better the end result.
 
Looks great Kanno! I didn't notice the nail do anything to my plant, but that screw is bigger good luck :thumb:
Maybe you needed to nail it up like a voodoo doll....

:rofl:
 
Yeah, but wait 'till you see what happens to Kanno's plant, first. :laughtwo:
Hey @Azimuth I've been thinking about the nail thing or anything like it. I think it is something I would be careful about in terms of where I put the nail through. You figure the main central wide transport column runs right up the middle, and that it is larger down low in terms of circumference than it is up high. This is you nutrient line that feeds all the others. So to then put a nail dead center of the stem seems to me that you're taking the chance that the nail bisects that column and completely blocks it from nutes getting up it. No? Possible? Just thinking about it here. It seems remotely possible to block all further feeding by doing this, or maybe I'm overthinking it. Thoughts?
 
What about a bottoming?? Kind of like topping only on the other end. Then tape it back together and see how it holds up? That should provide any needed additional stress!

:rofl:
Hell, try some rubbing alcohol in the nute mix, that'll stress em out......
 
Hey @Azimuth I've been thinking about the nail thing or anything like it. I think it is something I would be careful about in terms of where I put the nail through. You figure the main central wide transport column runs right up the middle, and that it is larger down low in terms of circumference than it is up high. This is you nutrient line that feeds all the others. So to then put a nail dead center of the stem seems to me that you're taking the chance that the nail bisects that column and completely blocks it from nutes getting up it. No? Possible? Just thinking about it here. It seems remotely possible to block all further feeding by doing this, or maybe I'm overthinking it. Thoughts?
That's why doing a bottoming is such a good idea. That way you don't have to make that judgement. The total destucturion is equal opportunity. :rofl:

*****

To answer you question, I don't know if herbaceous plants work the same as trees, but I know with trees it's only the very outer edge that's live. Like when you clone and scrape down a level and then get to the white pith? In trees that white core is essentially dead heartwood and all of the nutrient channels are all towards the outer bark. There are layers like bark, then cambiem, xylem and phloem etc. layers.

I'd imagine canna plants are setup the same, but I'd have to do more research to know for sure.

But, assuming that's true, the location of your massive stake screw probably doesn't matter all that much. It just matters if you do it (or don't do it)

(I still think you should wait out the results of this reckless behavior before committing to do the same to yours.) :laughtwo:
 
That's why doing a bottoming is such a good idea. That way you don't have to make that judgement. The total destucturion is equal opportunity. :rofl:

*****

To answer you question, I don't know if herbaceous plants work the same as trees, but I know with trees it's only the very outer edge that's live. Like when you clone and scrape down a level and then get to the white pith? In trees that white core is essentially dead heartwood and all of the nutrient channels are all towards the outer bark. There are layers like bark, then cambiem, xylem and phloem etc. layers.

I'd imagine canna plants are setup the same, but I'd have to do more research to know for sure.

But, assuming that's true, the location of your massive stake screw probably doesn't matter all that much. It just matters if you do it (or don't do it)

(I still think you should wait out the results of this reckless behavior before committing to do the same to yours.) :laughtwo:
Ok, I'm not that educated, but all I know is every one of my dried stems on every plant is hollow down the center, you can almost blow through them. So I assumed all those came off one big one in the stem. I really don't know, just thinking out loud. But I guarantee you I could intentionally cut off feeding to say, one of my two Titan colas, right now, if I wanted to by using some variation on this method.
 
But I guarantee you I could intentionally cut off feeding to say, one of my two Titan colas, right now, if I wanted to by using some variation on this method.

Do it! :laughtwo:

I think those big, hollow stems are just essentially dead space and not the pipes bringing up the nutrients.

Think about it. Let's say you lopped off through the middle of your stem, say at harvest. If the hollow were a pipe for nutrients you'd expect it to be full of water much like if you cut a standing water pipe. Enough that it you tilted the plant over you'd be pouring out standing water.

But you don't. The water moves through capillary action essentially through the outer (but not outmost) skin.

I think. Could be wrong. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
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