My First Journal, Kanno 26: I Will Grow 6 Critical Plants From Royal Queen Seeds

I thought it was better not to cut after flipping. Or am I afraid I'm afraid of hermaphrodites? Or do I have to do it next week?
The plants will go through a transition from veg to flower that I don't even count towards the "flower period" given by the breeders. I count Day 1 of flower as being the first day I see pistils, and then start counting from there. And that's often 10 days or more after I flip the lights to 12/12 (actually in my case I move them from a veg box up to a flower box, but same idea).

Right after they stop stretching there is a short window that you can use to do the defoliating without worrying about causing too much stress and therefore hermies.

But do what you're going to do right then and then no more, because you're right, stress too far into the flowering period can cause issues like hermies. And make sure you have no light leaks in your tent from seams, or the indicator lights on any timers or other equipment in the tent. Any light seen by the plant during the dark phase can cause issues.

Later on, we're going to suggest you consider draughting them to increase the trichome production, but that comes very late in flower (week 7 of a 9-10 week strain), so even if it does throw male flowers that late in its life, any female flowers that might have been pollinated won't have enough time to do much damage. BUT, the tradeoff is you get a dramatic increase in trichome production.

But, one thing at a time. Clean them up a bit after stretch and then baby them for most of the rest of the flower period, and we'll circle back to the whole draughting thing as you get closer.
 
The plants will go through a transition from veg to flower that I don't even count towards the "flower period" given by the breeders. I count Day 1 of flower as being the first day I see pistils, and then count from there. And that's often 10 days or more after I flip the lights to 12/12 (actually in my case I move them from a veg box up to a flower box, but same idea).

Right after they stop stretching there is a short window that you can use to do the defoliating without worrying about causing too much stress and therefore hermies.

But do what you're going to do right then and then no more, because you're right, stress too far into the flowering period can cause issues like hermies. And make sure you have no light leaks in your tent from seams, or the indicator lights on any timers or other equipment in the tent. Any light seen by the plant during the dark phase can cause issues.

Later on, we're going to suggest you consider draughting them to increase the trichome production, but that comes very late in flower (week 7 of a 9-10 week strain), so even if it does throw male flowers that late in its life, any female flowers that might have been pollinated won't have enough time to do much damage. BUT, the tradeoff is you get a dramatic increase in trichome production.

But, one thing at a time. Clean them up a bit after stretch and then baby them for most of the rest of the flower period, and we'll circle back to the whole draughting thing as you get closer.
Wow, taking him all the way through droughting, eh? Nice. Kanno, you're getting a crash course, hope you're taking notes!

Lol!
 
Hey Az. Thanks for the tag! You mentioned him earlier and I forgot to click watch but I'm good now!! Kanno, hear you are only doing great things!!!
 
I told @Krissi1982 that he's going from new grower to semi-pro ball in one season. :headbanger:
Yup. He batted .340 in Single A so they moved him all the way up to Triple A and he's crushing it at a .309 pace there too. Likely a fall callup for the last month playoff run.
 
Have you thought about Draughting? Many growers on that thread have seen some great results.
Usually I start to prep older plants about a month out from flip.

Noticed when defoliating during post flip (stretch) it seems like I'll get more leaf growth.

I find it is better not to defoliate until the stretch is over. This is simply my observation and maybe read this from other folks in the community?

Now that my girls are getting trichs I'll start the drought process.

Also find that lower temps and low humidity are helpful for trich production.
This morning my tents read 9.1 and 9.3 C. My humidity was at 49 (kept my basement door opened).
Today I'll fire up the dehumidifier to get the RH down to 35. The temps will peak at around 25 C.

Also I've heard that lowering the PH is helpful in aggressive trich development.
Also I've heard that some strains like higher PH for trich development.

Yes, the drought process seems to be an effective and a proven method for a better cultivation experience, a.k.a. higher quality bud.
 
Usually I start to prep older plants about a month out from flip.

Noticed when defoliating during post flip (stretch) it seems like I'll get more leaf growth.



two wks in to flower they completely stop new leaf development. you want to be careful on the 2wk post flip defol. the leaves are a store of nutrients in bad times. whatever you have has to get you through.




I find it is better not to defoliate until the stretch is over. This is simply my observation and maybe read this from other folks in the community?


depending on conditions it will stop in the 2 - 3 wk mark. some are inclined to go longer, but they are well in to flower. i've had sativas in particular that stretched through 90 days of 120 day flower period. they couldn't have been that far from land race at that point




Now that my girls are getting trichs I'll start the drought process.

Also find that lower temps and low humidity are helpful for trich production.

This morning my tents read 9.1 and 9.3 C. My humidity was at 49 (kept my basement door opened).
Today I'll fire up the dehumidifier to get the RH down to 35. The temps will peak at around 25 C.


holy that's a heck of a swing. if you're doing that daily you should get some great fall colours as they mature.

cheapest way to keep rh in check is move more air to outdoor. either a bigger exhaust fan or adjustable.

rh isn't bad as it is except for the cool overnights. that combo i worry about. 50 - 55% is fine for most situations depending on temps and air exchange. but you want your temps higher up and more even. i can see why you want to lower it.


Also I've heard that lowering the PH is helpful in aggressive trich development.
Also I've heard that some strains like higher PH for trich development.


it's all anecdotal. haven't really seen anything consistent over a number of growers and media. it all kind of seems the hp type right now. it sort of sounds strain and pheno sensitive as well.

there have been a few times where growers have abandoned ph all together. part of it is related to nute type and local conditions / water etc.


Yes, the drought process seems to be an effective and a proven method for a better cultivation experience, a.k.a. higher quality bud.


it's been interesting watching this. i don't have an equivalent approach in my current media. but it sort of goes through something similar on a cyclical basis in flower,
 
Usually I start to prep older plants about a month out from flip.

Noticed when defoliating during post flip (stretch) it seems like I'll get more leaf growth.

I find it is better not to defoliate until the stretch is over. This is simply my observation and maybe read this from other folks in the community?

Now that my girls are getting trichs I'll start the drought process.

Also find that lower temps and low humidity are helpful for trich production.
This morning my tents read 9.1 and 9.3 C. My humidity was at 49 (kept my basement door opened).
Today I'll fire up the dehumidifier to get the RH down to 35. The temps will peak at around 25 C.

Also I've heard that lowering the PH is helpful in aggressive trich development.
Also I've heard that some strains like higher PH for trich development.

Yes, the drought process seems to be an effective and a proven method for a better cultivation experience, a.k.a. higher quality bud.
Hey farmer hope your having a great weekend my friend.
Imo if you let your pots get down to 9 c you will have problems.
I don't let my pots get below 18c.
And it will take forever to heat back up and get the roots working again. :Namaste:
I agree on the defol.
I'm a big fan of leaving lots of foliage.
And cleaning under her skirt post stretch. :thumb:

Stay safe
Bill
 
Hey farmer hope your having a great weekend my friend.
Imo if you let your pots get down to 9 c you will have problems.
I don't let my pots get below 18c.


they kinda crash if they sit at 8c or lower for an extended period. if the root zone gets down there they'll be finished. they can take the air temp for a bit.
 
Usually I start to prep older plants about a month out from flip.

Noticed when defoliating during post flip (stretch) it seems like I'll get more leaf growth.

I find it is better not to defoliate until the stretch is over. This is simply my observation and maybe read this from other folks in the community?

Now that my girls are getting trichs I'll start the drought process.

Also find that lower temps and low humidity are helpful for trich production.
This morning my tents read 9.1 and 9.3 C. My humidity was at 49 (kept my basement door opened).
Today I'll fire up the dehumidifier to get the RH down to 35. The temps will peak at around 25 C.

Also I've heard that lowering the PH is helpful in aggressive trich development.
Also I've heard that some strains like higher PH for trich development.

Yes, the drought process seems to be an effective and a proven method for a better cultivation experience, a.k.a. higher quality bud.
This:
Also I've heard that lowering the PH is helpful in aggressive trich development.
Also I've heard that some strains like higher PH for trich development.

I have never heard either. Very interesting. Know where you heard it?
 
Hi colleagues, don't you know what it could be on two plants I discovered a few leaves? Thanks for the insight and for the advice;)
IMG_20220329_142229.jpg
 
Hi colleagues, don't you know what it could be on two plants I discovered a few leaves? Thanks for the insight and for the advice;)
IMG_20220329_142229.jpg
Hey @Kanno26 sorry about the issue.
I don't take leaves off my girls unless they have pests.
If you keep pulling leaves it makes the problem travel faster. :Namaste:
Ok have you been feeding full strength nutrients at 6.3 ph?
Letting dry dry dry then giving water and drying again?

Stay safe
Bill
 
Hey @Kanno26 sorry about the issue.
I don't take leaves off my girls unless they have pests.
If you keep pulling leaves it makes the problem travel faster. :Namaste:
Ok have you been feeding full strength nutrients at 6.3 ph?
Letting dry dry dry then giving water and drying again?

Stay safe
Bill
Hi @ Bill284, I fed wet and dry until dry and then I just watered but the PH I had was 5.8 according to my fertilizers I have a pH range of 5.5-6.4.
 
Hi @ Bill284, I fed wet and dry until dry and then I just watered but the PH I had was 5.8 according to my fertilizers I have a pH range of 5.5-6.4.
Hi @Kanno26, hi @Bill284. Bill, let me tell him for you: Kanno, soil is 6.3, coco is 5.8.

When I get leaves looking like that I usually try a calmag infusion.
 
Hi @Jon, so this is the ph that will do this with the leaves?
I'm not quite sure what you mean, and probably there are better to ask than me, but I would say that watering to Ph only works if you actually water to that number every time and to runoff every time. If you do that you will not get salt buildup, which can and likely will knock your Ph out of whack, and you would then see this sort of thing on the leaves. So in that sense, yes, Ph is important. At 5.5 in soil, they are not getting proper access to the nutes.

Here, check this out. This may help. It's a pretty solid reference point and actually visually shows WHY soil is 6.3 if you're going to bother Ph'ing as I do and recommend. Others say screw worrying about it but with with nutes I think it's absolutely necessary.

Ask others, but if it's a salt buildup. nute lockout thing, that's as easy as a solid flush and a feed with calmag after that, imho.

Hope that's helpful.

Edit: sorry, forgot the chart. I have one that looks different but this is the same thing. 6.3 allows access to the heavier nutes.
1648562001455.png
 
Back
Top Bottom