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- #201
Fastass419
Well-Known Member
Can you get her to check them out. I have read so of her journals seems to b very knowledgeable
My First Grow Journal
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I see her poking her head around your thread now so I'm sure she'll post once she's read your journal.
I'd give them the tea on the next feeding as shotta mentioned to stimulate the herd, but just do half dose to start with.
@Fastass419
A good compost tea would work well as well as kelp that i mentioned a few pages back.
Kelp is a miracle plant food and 100% organic.
EM-1 is also a good addition to keep the microbe population happy.
Also depends on what you have on hand that you can use now.
A good compost tea would work well as well as kelp that i mentioned a few pages back.
Kelp is a miracle plant food and 100% organic.
EM-1 is also a good addition to keep the microbe population happy.
Also depends on what you have on hand that you can use now.
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- #205
Fastass419
Well-Known Member
@lazylathe there is kelp in the dirt mixs
@MrSauga thanks the more info I have the better I can figure out what to di
@MrSauga thanks the more info I have the better I can figure out what to di
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
But even HLG doesnt recommend you dont mount them farther away than 30 inches. How can you say their plants couldnt be better if they brought them down a couple feet? Im just curious... how long have you been growing for?
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- #207
Fastass419
Well-Known Member
I just raised my lights a little they were a little hot at the plant so I raised them
I have seen guys growing for 20 years and a guy growing for 5 I look at there plants that tells me everything I need to know. I don’t follow hardly any direction from any manufacturers I go by what the plant tells me.
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with that.
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
That's great. So far the best reason I've heard to raise lights is so you dont bonk your head. If you look at how quickly light is lost because of distance, mounting them to the roof seems counter productive. Why not just use less lights, put them close to the plant. You'll save a ton on power and you wont have any heat issues. You shouldn't listen to manufacturers of cheap lights, but there are plenty of builders that should be listened to. HlG is one I would listen to
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Ok... I agree with @MrSauga, the yellowing from the bottom up is a clear sign of nutrition not getting to where it needs to be. But, everything is in that soil, you say... and you may be correct, but it takes quite a bit of microlife actively chomping on those raw minerals in that soil so as to reduce the natural stuff down into the raw nutrient the plant needs. Right now everything in its raw form is in there, but the plant can't directly get to it.
The tea you are proposing to give is a good start, but it is by no means all that you can or should do. There is about as much living microbial life in that bottled organic tea as there is in Fox Farm Big Bloom. If you were in a huge (25 gallon) container of this soil, you could maybe have gotten the microlife that is needed started in there a month before the grow, and it might be strong enough by now to support the plant, and in a large enough container it would be sustainable... but other than that, you need to add microbes on a regular basis, or the feeding cycle stops.
Assuming your intent is to keep this a bonafide organic grow by letting the minerals in the soil and the microbes feed your plant, you need to get the microherd built up quickly. There are several versions of both wet and dry microbial superpack infusions that you can throw at your plant these days... you don't even have to learn how to make actively aerated compost teas or mess with all of the different recipes, raw materials, timing and mess... today's smart organic farmer just mixes and pours.
I ran my entire last grow from start to finish last time using this product:
and it supplied all the microbes my plants needed for a wonderful grow... an award winning journal of the month grow as a matter of fact. Other products are URB, Voodoo Juice and I forget a couple of the new bloom and veg powders, really centering in on the microlife needed during those stages.
I can pretty much guarantee you that with that soil, 48 hours after bringing the microlife back into full swing, even if you were using chlorinated tap water (which you shouldnt do in an organic grow), you would see a dramatic difference in your plant.
The tea you are proposing to give is a good start, but it is by no means all that you can or should do. There is about as much living microbial life in that bottled organic tea as there is in Fox Farm Big Bloom. If you were in a huge (25 gallon) container of this soil, you could maybe have gotten the microlife that is needed started in there a month before the grow, and it might be strong enough by now to support the plant, and in a large enough container it would be sustainable... but other than that, you need to add microbes on a regular basis, or the feeding cycle stops.
Assuming your intent is to keep this a bonafide organic grow by letting the minerals in the soil and the microbes feed your plant, you need to get the microherd built up quickly. There are several versions of both wet and dry microbial superpack infusions that you can throw at your plant these days... you don't even have to learn how to make actively aerated compost teas or mess with all of the different recipes, raw materials, timing and mess... today's smart organic farmer just mixes and pours.
I ran my entire last grow from start to finish last time using this product:
I can pretty much guarantee you that with that soil, 48 hours after bringing the microlife back into full swing, even if you were using chlorinated tap water (which you shouldnt do in an organic grow), you would see a dramatic difference in your plant.
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Maybe a bit of fulvic acid to help chelate what nutrients are there. The soil may be full of all the right stuff but if it some elements arent chelated, Iron for instance, simply wont workOk... I agree with @MrSauga, the yellowing from the bottom up is a clear sign of nutrition not getting to where it needs to be. But, everything is in that soil, you say... and you may be correct, but it takes quite a bit of microlife actively chomping on those raw minerals in that soil so as to reduce the natural stuff down into the raw nutrient the plant needs. Right now everything in its raw form is in there, but the plant can't directly get to it.
The tea you are proposing to give is a good start, but it is by no means all that you can or should do. There is about as much living microbial life in that bottled organic tea as there is in Fox Farm Big Bloom. If you were in a huge (25 gallon) container of this soil, you could maybe have gotten the microlife that is needed started in there a month before the grow, and it might be strong enough by now to support the plant, and in a large enough container it would be sustainable... but other than that, you need to add microbes on a regular basis, or the feeding cycle stops.
Assuming your intent is to keep this a bonafide organic grow by letting the minerals in the soil and the microbes feed your plant, you need to get the microherd built up quickly. There are several versions of both wet and dry microbial superpack infusions that you can throw at your plant these days... you don't even have to learn how to make actively aerated compost teas or mess with all of the different recipes, raw materials, timing and mess... today's smart organic farmer just mixes and pours.
I ran my entire last grow from start to finish last time using this product:
and it supplied all the microbes my plants needed for a wonderful grow... an award winning journal of the month grow as a matter of fact. Other products are URB, Voodoo Juice and I forget a couple of the new bloom and veg powders, really centering in on the microlife needed during those stages.
I can pretty much guarantee you that with that soil, 48 hours after bringing the microlife back into full swing, even if you were using chlorinated tap water (which you shouldnt do in an organic grow), you would see a dramatic difference in your plant.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
There would not be any chelated nutrients in an organic soil... the elements are in their natural form, not wrapped in EDTA bindings. Fulvic acid will definitely help break down the organics, but you have to balance the use of that with the need to not kill the microlife. I would rather trust a large and steady infusion of living microlife with each watering to do what the plants need. Acids in general are not good for an organic grow, nor is chlorine, or trying to supplement what the roots and the microbes have worked out, with the use of supplemental synthetic nutes, thereby interrupting the feeding cycle. Organic growing is a balancing act, that begins months before the grow as the soil is mineralized and cooked and then continues on as you constantly add good microbes to the grow, knowing that some are always dying out for one reason or another, sometimes entire classes of them as they compete with each other for food.
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
I didnt realize he was growing organically.
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- #215
Fastass419
Well-Known Member
Thanks @Emilya and @MrSauga since are talk I have been researching my dirt never in my life would I think I would think about dirt this much. I ended up getting a hold of one of there cannabis experts. He agreed with both of you. I needed nutrients. He is sending me their liquid squid and stonington plant food.
I will try this and see how they do. Plant food is a 5.2.4 liquid squid is 2.30.
I will try this and see how they do. Plant food is a 5.2.4 liquid squid is 2.30.
buzz62
Well-Known Member
I would say they are not getting an efficient value for the electricity they are buying and it will show up as lower and slower production. Its physics, light falls away exponentially from its source.
You mentioned HLG, Here is a light chart from them for their 550 V2, and they do their charting at 18 and 24 inch. Most companies chart in this range because thats where they expect you to use the light. I compiled both charts and you can clearly see the light intensity drop as you move farther away. Interestingly, the 1250umol/s/m2 level in the centre of the 18 inch graph converts to 48,000 lux, about half as bright as the sun.
Now I will concede that a light the exact size of your tent will get more light down to the floor due to reflectance, but you will still benefit more with it hung at the 16-24 inch height. Running lights higher than needed slows down your plants by decreasing the available energy to them. When you consider that these plants evolved outdoors under full spectrum light in the 90-120,000 lux range, they can absolutely take it!
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Well saidI would say they are not getting an efficient value for the electricity they are buying and it will show up as lower and slower production. Its physics, light falls away exponentially from its source.
You mentioned HLG, Here is a light chart from them for their 550 V2, and they do their charting at 18 and 24 inch. Most companies chart in this range because thats where they expect you to use the light. I compiled both charts and you can clearly see the light intensity drop as you move farther away. Interestingly, the 1250umol/s/m2 level in the centre of the 18 inch graph converts to 48,000 lux, about half as bright as the sun.
Now I will concede that a light the exact size of your tent will get more light down to the floor due to reflectance, but you will still benefit more with it hung at the 16-24 inch height. Running lights higher than needed slows down your plants by decreasing the available energy to them. When you consider that these plants evolved outdoors under full spectrum light in the 90-120,000 lux range, they can absolutely take it!
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
It shouldn't really matter because there are plenty out there that are OMRI certified, and it isnt really an acid as most are Ph neutral
Backyardigan
Well-Known Member
It took me a while, but I finally caught up with the party!
I read somewhere when starting organic soil, you have to "prep" the soil. I decided to take this practice into account when I started. I was just using pH'd water to prep my potting soil before my transplant. It really gets life in the soil started that plants benefit from.
I read somewhere when starting organic soil, you have to "prep" the soil. I decided to take this practice into account when I started. I was just using pH'd water to prep my potting soil before my transplant. It really gets life in the soil started that plants benefit from.
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- #220
Fastass419
Well-Known Member
Started some LST with 3 of my clones. Let's see how they work out.
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