Skybound
Well-Known Member
IMO, the largest one looks barely ready to top, but still ready. The littler ones, not yet ready.
Mother of Berries, M.O.B. Maine Strain
- Thread starter WeedMonkey
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #882
WeedMonkey
Well-Known Member
Hadn’t planned on doing other ones just yet. I’ll wait on the cherry pie (largest one) to ensure no issues and they are of ample size to do anything with.
- Thread starter
- #883
WeedMonkey
Well-Known Member
Cherry + Skunks. I’ll have to backtrack to find out where they are at time wise. When I start cloning. Life’s been super busy. How long approximately before they are adequate for flowering? I’m doing research and more interested in hearing direct personal accounts and experience of this. Some of the YouTube videos I’ve seen looked questionable such as direct cut to dirt no clones, no domes, no putting in water, etc. I’m sure it’s not impossible to be done this way but not the best either. I’ll be bringing clonex into the mix when it’s tjme to go. I’ll of course be using lower beaches based on the increased number of rooting horomones that exist at the lower end of the plant. I’m looking to ultimately achieve a quick grow and dispose clone army during these process. I have previously said that it’s about experimenting and getting my skill set caught up with everyone else but I figure might as well get something out of it. Any advice appreciated.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
Directly planted in soil works for some. I have done it a couple of times but it is not the most successful method for me. I will do it from time to time and it does work for me more often than not but I have pretty good luck just taking a few cuttings and putting them in a cup of water under the canopy to filter the amount of light they get. It takes a while to get roots though. I get my fastest clones from using clonex cloning liquid mixed with water in a tray and soaking plugs in that solution and then using clonex gel on the tips before I put them in the cubes. It will take 1 to 3 weeks for me to have roots this way.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
My experience has lead me to using equal parts of GH Flora Blend and GH Flora Bloom to about 250-300 TDS in RO water. I used to use Clonex and a similar product, but I didn't really notice that much of a difference when not using rooting gels, so I stopped. Still, even though I get 100% success, it still takes a solid two weeks to have roots shooting out the bottom of a rockwool starter cube, and that's too long to cater to my impatience and I will be doing some more experiments soon. I also fine equal success from the top and bottom of plant, though the bottoms tend to be thinner and are prone to wilt over during their first day in the cube. They still live and root, but then your future plant will begin life on it's side and branches will need to redirect, and the result is just not pretty. That said though, the tops are the tops and we generally want to keep those, so all I can say is if the opportunity presents itself, take from the top.
In one of my first journal I believe, I experimented with a DIY bubbler for cloning and had fantastic results, very quick to appear and a lot of lateral growth, but I haven't been able to recreate that result, so it seems I still have a lot to learn.
Edit - Flora Blend primarily has fulvic and humic acids, Flora Bloom is just 0-5-4
In one of my first journal I believe, I experimented with a DIY bubbler for cloning and had fantastic results, very quick to appear and a lot of lateral growth, but I haven't been able to recreate that result, so it seems I still have a lot to learn.
Edit - Flora Blend primarily has fulvic and humic acids, Flora Bloom is just 0-5-4
I take clones from tops her and ther ebut have found they typically take a little longer to root. They will still usually root, it is just a matter of it taking a little longer. Do you grow in soil @Skybound? I used to use rockwool to clone but have since had better luck using other methods. Bubble cloners work really well, but you need to keep the water within a certain temp range for them to work effectively. Too warm and they wont root, too cool and they will take forever. You akso need to keep the nozzles clean or it wont work well. A lot of people will run bleach through the system between cloning to keep it clean. You should also use something in the water to keep growth from developing. I find that riot rooters or similar plugs to that work very well. they are similar to rockwool in how tehy are prepared and used but I have had rockwool choke a few clones out while using it and the soil I use is not a fan of it.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
I grow totally in only rockwool. I start in starter cubes, and have killed some in the past with 'damping off', but have regained the knowledge of how often to water so that doesn't happen to me anymore. The time I was successful using the bubbler, it was just that, not an aeroponic sprayer setup, so there were no nozzles involved, just an airstone. I suspect the reason for my success was using a low watt CFL within 6", and also that both were in an unpowered mini fridge, so once RH climbed, it held.
My first grow was soil, but it turned out to be a dude and I was getting into RW and have been successful ever since. I've generally pulled a pound off each plant, except this Kush which isn't a big yielder. I also switched to dry nutes from wet and COB LED from HID, so I have a lot of changes to adapt to now.
Nice I have a buddy that would use RW cubes and would flower as soon as clones rooted. He was pulling about an ounce and a half per plant, which does not sound like much until you factor in no veg time at all. He would have 3 trays of about 11 to 12 clones going at a time and then would cycle in his moms which were in DWC buckets once they got too large to keep around. He did really well with it.
- Thread starter
- #889
WeedMonkey
Well-Known Member
That’s a lot of information to take in but I’m certainly paying attention and taking notes. I’m still reading up on cob boards and hoping to start building around beginning of December as long as all goes well. Pennywise mentioned something called “Quantum’s” a while ago that he runs (last I knew)I looked them up and they look like a more sophisticated fluorescent light. About $300 each on some of the larger retailers.
Did I send you a build list for the lights I run? If so those are knock off Quantum boards. I have about $900 in my 4 panels and thats with all the Waygos, wire and some of the tools I needed that I did not have. So I have abbout $225 into each panel with this first round of them. I love them. they work so much better than my HIDs do.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
I'm a recent convert as well. I actually light burned my Kush the last 2 rounds and have to keep the output at about half, maybe a tiny bit more. FYI, I built 2 fixtures, each with 6 Vero29 (D) cobs on passive pinned heatsinks, and being driven from an HLG 480 watt driver, so with it about half way only draws about half the watts. Not knowing how to shop for LEDs, I aimed to overshoot what I need in light to replace my 600w HIDs, and I definitely overshot the mark, lol. My oldest bloom plant I now have under 4 COBs as I removed 2 of the 6 from one fixture to build a 3rd fixture. So far, the 4 COBs @ half power are doing very well. I also took out the T5 fixture from Veg and put in a 65 watt quantum board (4,000k) and that's doing fair. I'll be looking to get another 65 watter and my veg space will be complete.
I run 3 boards off of each HLG 240. The 240s draw about 260 watts. So in my 4x8 I am drawing about 1040 watts and it is doing better than my 2 600 watt HPS were doing, even when I had a first get mars 300 in between them. I had another member give me a build list and contacts for some of the parts and basically followed their build guide. I am very impressed with the boards. I was considering Cobs, but the boards give better light dispersion and were easier to put together than the cobs. The cost was also less because I did not need heat sinks.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
I definitely can confirm that the cost to build my fixtures was great and each COB is lacking in dispersion, though they make up in penetration. I actually have been getting my best buds from the middle of the plant. To save on cost, I opted to reverse engineer the Vero29 6 COB fixture on RapidLED. At the time, their kit was around $550 with the beefier driver. I think I got it down to around $480 per fixture by sourcing aluminum angles locally, and cutting and drilling everything myself. I also designed and printed connectors to flush mount the power inlet and the potentiometer, as well as the white twist on reflectors, so I'm a little happy about that, but I still think you got way better value, especially if your lights don't make your girls do some stupid shit if the intensity is too great. My Kush tops foxtailed like crazy and left me with long skinny mini corn cob looking disasters. The stone and flavors are spot on, but the bag appeal is completely lost. Still, all in all, these newer gen LEDs are smoking my old lights and using a lot less juice while outlasting bulb life. I also suspect, but haven't yet confirmed that LED drivers don't emit as much, possibly any EMI/EMF, whereas the HID ballasts can be sniffed out with an AM radio. Have you come across any of this information?
Edit - errp, I need to walk back that last part. I just searched the topic and got a shit load of hits.
Edit 2 - Just checked the Meanwell datasheets I have and all have EMI filters in the drivers.
I have seen that some of the digital dimmable ballasts for HIDs can fuck with cable and satellite signals and has caused some people to have issues with cable companies. Graytail has talked about penetration and has mentioned that with the boards emitting light from multiple points that the dispersion and penetration is even better than with cobs or anything else. He talks about having a single light source (or even say 6 from cobs) does not allow the photons to reach as low down as they do when coming from a bunch of smaller points. He got pretty scientific and it made sense to me. He talked baout how if you look at the lower leaves you see almost no shadows with the boards and it is because of all the light bouncing around and giving better coverage. I do get some tops that look a little stressed when too close but that is my fault for allowing plants to grow too tall and not having the headroom to help negate it. I get very nice buds even at the bottoms of my plants now. Depending on the strains I get some lowers that are denser than the tops of other strains.
Here are my lights and some buds from them:
Skybound
Well-Known Member
What strains are you growing? Those reds looked nice! My Kush looks more like your last pic, except my buds are smaller
. I so cannot wait till I can start Triple Cheese I have in Veg now. 2 more Kush harvests and it's done. I might even give away the remaining seeds, or toss them, but I doubt I'll ever want to grow this strain again due to shitty yields.
Those QBs you have are massive! I have difficulty understanding penetration the way you explained as dispersed light lacks intensity, whereas COBs do have intencity, yet lack dispersion. Can you link me to that graytail thread so I can learn some something?
. I so cannot wait till I can start Triple Cheese I have in Veg now. 2 more Kush harvests and it's done. I might even give away the remaining seeds, or toss them, but I doubt I'll ever want to grow this strain again due to shitty yields. Those QBs you have are massive! I have difficulty understanding penetration the way you explained as dispersed light lacks intensity, whereas COBs do have intencity, yet lack dispersion. Can you link me to that graytail thread so I can learn some something?
The first couple of pictures are my Star Pupil from Mass Medical Strains. Every pheno I have seen has been purple. some grow strangely and slow but if you find a vigorous one it should be kept. The nug shot is Orangeade from Symbiotic and the othe rplant pics are my Slurricane from In-House Genetics.
GT does a better job explaining it but these lights are very intense. i should really wear sun glasses with them. They gave me a head ahce and made it difficult to see after working in the tent for the first couple of weeks. Here is Graytail's journal you will have to search for the post though bud. Graytail's 4th, Perpetual 4x4, Samsung Panels, Doc Bud's Hibrix
GT does a better job explaining it but these lights are very intense. i should really wear sun glasses with them. They gave me a head ahce and made it difficult to see after working in the tent for the first couple of weeks. Here is Graytail's journal you will have to search for the post though bud. Graytail's 4th, Perpetual 4x4, Samsung Panels, Doc Bud's Hibrix
Skybound
Well-Known Member
I have same experience with my little 65w QB in veg and definitely with the COBs. They blind you quick if you catch a glance. HPS was nowehere near that intense on the eyes. Thanks for the link, I'll try and search the info I seek.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
I think I found it last night., Final post of page 23. I now see what you(he) was saying, though I still have some reservation that I can't fully explain in terms of intensity. With the QBs, the spacing of the diodes decreases the intensity they'd collectively produce if they were all smashed together in a tight formation, like in a COB. For comparison, I'd say the difference between Times Square at night versus any other part of Manhattan or NYC in general at the same time. Times Square lighting, being so close in proximity to one another creates the ability to push the light farther while maintaining intensity. Spaced out light sources, compensate by focusing the light from many more sources and creating less shadows, but IMO each does not drive their photons as far. I clearly still have a lot to learn on the topic, this is just where my head is at now.
He makes a convincing argument and I can see your points as well. I just know that I have never had lowers as nice as I get with my boards. I get quality nugs (even if on the small side) 3-5 feet away from my lights. Something I never got with HIDs.
- Thread starter
- #900
WeedMonkey
Well-Known Member
Running cheap LED together with my HID.
Used some sticks and hemp string as a means of destressing by holding up the lower leaves. Later today, hopefully tomorrow I can start working on other branches. Clonex has been ordered and should have tomorrow. Any issues with existing setup, let me know. I want to move LED however, it’s been my understanding that HID is best on its own timer/protector/outlet.
Used some sticks and hemp string as a means of destressing by holding up the lower leaves. Later today, hopefully tomorrow I can start working on other branches. Clonex has been ordered and should have tomorrow. Any issues with existing setup, let me know. I want to move LED however, it’s been my understanding that HID is best on its own timer/protector/outlet.