Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion
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Well it's done , running very cool , not having that glass makes a big difference and the fans now blow up , I'm pleased with the change , it's definitely brighter. Maybe not for some of you , but those who might try it will see the difference
I read somewhere long ago that always recommended having a fan blow air up at the led , hence the clip on fan blowing air up at the LEDs , that alone makes it run cooler and extends the life of your light.
Just an update FYI, the case of my 1200w is now cool to the touch , took about 10 minutes to do this .
I read somewhere long ago that always recommended having a fan blow air up at the led , hence the clip on fan blowing air up at the LEDs , that alone makes it run cooler and extends the life of your light.
Just an update FYI, the case of my 1200w is now cool to the touch , took about 10 minutes to do this .
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Hi LoungeLife, I am sorry. Could you send me the email again? I have failed to find it. Better to tell me your are Loungelife from 420, so I can find it easily.
Thanks McCdive . still struggling with the set up . first grow hopefully will success .
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Hi flyboy, haha, it's a bold try. The fan works like this, it will blow the cold air into the case and push the hot air out from the sides.
So a couple of questions,
Been doing some thinking on the heat that LEDs produce and the way the fans work , so I took one of the off brand LEDs that I have and removed the back , took the fan out and turned it around , now the air blows out the top instead of the sides , seems much better to me. Also removed the glass cover , that has helped in two ways , one it has let more light shine through and there is less heat build up , just don't touch it
Any thoughts...
I've never understood why the fans blow into the case , imho they should pull air out , every grow room I've ever built I always pull the air out , not push it in , all my tents have fans pulling air out , should my LEDs be any different. I may try this on all my lights and go buy a laser thermometer to get temps .
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Haha, ganjazz, you are not the first one to ask us to add secondary lens after this video. Actually, we have intended to prove that the light with lens does not have balanced lighting. The PAR will drop dramatically away from the center, which is not good for the plants at the side.
Actually, we have intended to prove that the light with lens does not have balanced lighting. The PAR will drop dramatically away from the center, which is not good for the plants at the side.Nice video and sweet lady speaking
@Sarah , those secondary lenses look interesting,
If there just attached to the led than its easy to do yourself as upgrade, you think in near future those will be avalaible?
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Mars Hydro
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flyboy, be careful of the dust and vapor. Well it's done , running very cool , not having that glass makes a big difference and the fans now blow up , I'm pleased with the change , it's definitely brighter. Maybe not for some of you , but those who might try it will see the difference
I read somewhere long ago that always recommended having a fan blow air up at the led , hence the clip on fan blowing air up at the LEDs , that alone makes it run cooler and extends the life of your light.
Just an update FYI, the case of my 1200w is now cool to the touch , took about 10 minutes to do this .
- Thread starter
- #16,812
Mars Hydro
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welcome kaoncall, thanks for stoppying by. For your grow area, you can choose 4pcs MarsII1600w. The coverage of 1pcs 1600w is 1.5mx1.5m at the height of 60cm. 4pcs 1600w will cover well your area. You are much welcome to send me an email for more details.
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- #16,813
Mars Hydro
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Hi guys, recently some customers say that they have failed to receive any feedback after emailing us and we couldn't find the email in our system. I am very sorry about this. If not on weekends, we will reply you within 24 hours considering the time difference. If you haven't heard from us in time, please send the email to us again to confirm we have got it. Thank you guys and have a nice day!
Well first off , I feel a little disrespect on here , just trying to pass on some info about the heat these build up ... And they do . To fix that you should help air flow in it's natural order , that being hot air rises, so to Sara saying , air is pulled in and then blown out the side vents , will now it pulls cool air in through the side vents and vents the hot air out the top as a natural hot air flow . MarsHydro also builds a light with no lens , just saying...
I've been messing with LEDs for over 5 years now and almost 20 years of growing , outside , in , dirt , hydro .... Ect...
Forums where used to exchange information and help one another, I feel blasted for an idea without anyone seeing if it works or even wondering , so whatever... On to my grow
I really feel like this needs to be said .
I have never built a grow room that the air is not sucked out of it by a powerful fan , to the outside , pulling in more fresh cool air , the way these lights work is incorrect for air flow , the fans on top blowing down into the case , not a good idea , should either be on the side blowing all the way through , like black dog led , or do what I did , turn the fans around and blow air out of the case , while pulling cool air through the vents , over the heat sinks and out the top , where it it then removed with my exhaust fan to the outside. Anyone in doubt can talk to there local hvac tech and ask these questions, I have...
The reason that these lights even have a glass cover on them , is so they can be sold in the USA , our country feels we are incapable of not hurting ourselves and needs to protect us , and I said this , just don't touch the LEDs with the light on , don't clean it , turn it off first . As the leads for electricity are bare with the glass off one could get shocked , that is why the cover is there , not for any other reason , it blocks light and traps heat .
Also the heatsinks are not designed correctly on these models , they should be in a line so the air flows more directly and with the air being blown down on them the air is disrupted and can not flow evenly, if the fans where on the sides blowing through or pulling through it would be more effective and the heatsinks would create channels for the flow of air , as heat will kill these lights fast I would think a lot of attention would be put into correct air flow design, those of you who think I'm wrong , just wait a year after your big purchase and see how bright your lights are without proper cooling and burned out electronics.
I've been messing with LEDs for over 5 years now and almost 20 years of growing , outside , in , dirt , hydro .... Ect...
Forums where used to exchange information and help one another, I feel blasted for an idea without anyone seeing if it works or even wondering , so whatever... On to my grow
I really feel like this needs to be said .
I have never built a grow room that the air is not sucked out of it by a powerful fan , to the outside , pulling in more fresh cool air , the way these lights work is incorrect for air flow , the fans on top blowing down into the case , not a good idea , should either be on the side blowing all the way through , like black dog led , or do what I did , turn the fans around and blow air out of the case , while pulling cool air through the vents , over the heat sinks and out the top , where it it then removed with my exhaust fan to the outside. Anyone in doubt can talk to there local hvac tech and ask these questions, I have...
The reason that these lights even have a glass cover on them , is so they can be sold in the USA , our country feels we are incapable of not hurting ourselves and needs to protect us , and I said this , just don't touch the LEDs with the light on , don't clean it , turn it off first . As the leads for electricity are bare with the glass off one could get shocked , that is why the cover is there , not for any other reason , it blocks light and traps heat .
Also the heatsinks are not designed correctly on these models , they should be in a line so the air flows more directly and with the air being blown down on them the air is disrupted and can not flow evenly, if the fans where on the sides blowing through or pulling through it would be more effective and the heatsinks would create channels for the flow of air , as heat will kill these lights fast I would think a lot of attention would be put into correct air flow design, those of you who think I'm wrong , just wait a year after your big purchase and see how bright your lights are without proper cooling and burned out electronics.
No disrespect from me I urge people to think and test their theory's
I'm an HVAC senior service tech of 37yrs and an electronics guru Ham operator. I agree about exhausting the room but as in the computer world where you are cooling the heat sink the air flow is that way for a reason ! even air flow over the entire heatsink. Natural heat rises yes but the fan is pushing cool air onto the heatsink and drivers.
I'm an HVAC senior service tech of 37yrs and an electronics guru Ham operator. I agree about exhausting the room but as in the computer world where you are cooling the heat sink the air flow is that way for a reason ! even air flow over the entire heatsink. Natural heat rises yes but the fan is pushing cool air onto the heatsink and drivers.
Cool air from where , the top of the hot tent , and I've never seen a computer that has heat sinks that blow on them , they pull air off them and out of the case , all computers are built with the air being blown out , not into
, with my design there is not hot air anymore, that's what I have been saying , the whole thing is now cool to the touch , the case , the top , everywhere... Don't think the fans will have a problem.
And now my fans are pulling cool air over the drivers and caps and heatsinks, then blown out the top and removed by my inline centrifugal fan.
I tested this over 5 years ago with the 1w chips and it helped , just thought I'd pass on a why to extend the life of your investment and keep your room cooler more efficient, it would be possible to make a light with fans blowing up and then have an attachment for 4 inch ducting to run through my tent to outside , then I could remove another energy drain and use the fans already in the lights .
If you took the black dog design, which is ideal, and put a flange on one side so you could attach ducting to run out of tent ,this would be an awesome implementation imho. It would pull air all the way through your tent and out , while removing the hot air from the light and then it would give you the options of flush mounting your lights , if necessary.
Just looking at those other ones , one can see how the whole case aides in air flow and removal, air flows straight through, over big heatsinks and right out the other side , no vents on 2 sides or the top , so air can only go through and out , one way . Much better design and could be implemented into the MarsHydro very easy , then leave the glass on as this design removes the build up of heat in the case , and that is part of the problem right there , the case , as hot air is blown down into your lights and over the heatsinks and drivers before it blows into the walls of your tent it losses some heat to the case and heats the case , this could be better .
, with my design there is not hot air anymore, that's what I have been saying , the whole thing is now cool to the touch , the case , the top , everywhere... Don't think the fans will have a problem.
And now my fans are pulling cool air over the drivers and caps and heatsinks, then blown out the top and removed by my inline centrifugal fan.
I tested this over 5 years ago with the 1w chips and it helped , just thought I'd pass on a why to extend the life of your investment and keep your room cooler more efficient, it would be possible to make a light with fans blowing up and then have an attachment for 4 inch ducting to run through my tent to outside , then I could remove another energy drain and use the fans already in the lights .
If you took the black dog design, which is ideal, and put a flange on one side so you could attach ducting to run out of tent ,this would be an awesome implementation imho. It would pull air all the way through your tent and out , while removing the hot air from the light and then it would give you the options of flush mounting your lights , if necessary.
Just looking at those other ones , one can see how the whole case aides in air flow and removal, air flows straight through, over big heatsinks and right out the other side , no vents on 2 sides or the top , so air can only go through and out , one way . Much better design and could be implemented into the MarsHydro very easy , then leave the glass on as this design removes the build up of heat in the case , and that is part of the problem right there , the case , as hot air is blown down into your lights and over the heatsinks and drivers before it blows into the walls of your tent it losses some heat to the case and heats the case , this could be better .
Well it's done , running very cool , not having that glass makes a big difference and the fans now blow up , I'm pleased with the change , it's definitely brighter. Maybe not for some of you , but those who might try it will see the difference
I read somewhere long ago that always recommended having a fan blow air up at the led , hence the clip on fan blowing air up at the LEDs , that alone makes it run cooler and extends the life of your light.
Just an update FYI, the case of my 1200w is now cool to the touch , took about 10 minutes to do this .
The big thing in a enclosed area whether a tent or a room is air flow, colder air settles so intake should be at the bottom and hot air rises so exhaust at the top and the air in the middle should be mixed at different levels (multiple fans and oscillating) to fight mold or hot spots and strengthen the plants. With good air flow I have never had a Mars Hydro light that ran over 105 f and my tent stays in the mid 80's with the equivalent of four plus 1200 lights without any modification.
As for the direction of flow the factory way gives a unobstructed intake and controls the exhaust to the outside of the case, with the fans reversed and the glass removed you have no control of where the air is coming from and no control of what is getting cooled in the many passages between the drivers and power supplies. Air, water, or electricity will always follow the path of least resistance and that path might not be to what really needs cooling.
Ok but the cpu makes the heat and the fan is not sucking the heat off the heatsink. The case fan does exhaust. If your exhausting your tent there shouldn't be alot of temp difference top to bottom. If you really want to cool it attach a flex from outside the tent to the fan blowing into the light which would do more for cooling.