gdubbu77
420 Member
Both switches have to be on or the fans to cool the unit won't even run
Sent from my Nexus 5 using 420
Sent from my Nexus 5 using 420
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Both switches have to be on or the fans to cool the unit won't even run
Sent from my Nexus 5 using 420
Is that a design flaw, or are the unit's heatsinks of great enough capacity to passively cool the LED panel in a reasonably ventilated grow area where the ambient temperature is not expected to be much higher than, say, 90°F or so at maximum?
Sent from my <SECURITY REDACTED> laptop using my mind and fingers.
Congrats Brian
Pick up the pot.
That is so amazing!!!! thank you so much mars hydro you have always been great to me, thanx again sara and i cant wait to be back up to 100% operational so i can show off the buds im growing under my mars lights again
Can not just diagnose by the leaves and the stem?
Pick up the pot?You mean check the soil from the bottom?
Hello!
So I Have a few questions that I'm sure most people on this thread could answer, but I'm a first timer so there really isn't too many questions in my case. I bought three Mars 2 700w lights directly from their website a few months ago, but had to plan and execute a cross country move, so I'm just now able to get my grow going. Ive started with 2 DWCs, both under CFLs but eventually moving on to one of 700W Mars units.
So my questions are...
A) Should i use just the Growth switch during veg and just the Bloom Switch during flower, or can you use both switches at the same time? Im thinking use the Growth switch during veg, then flip on both switches when i flip to 12/12. Am i correct on this or is this too much stress on the light?
B) I am only using one of the 700W Mars 2 units I have. With that said, when is it a good time to put the full power of those 700W's on the plants? Each DWC is under its own 65W CFL, but when should I make the switch? I want to make sure i don't put too much on them too early, so i don't burn them up or anything.
Any feedback will be much appreciated. Thanks guys!
Both switches have to be on or the fans to cool the unit won't even run
Sent from my Nexus 5 using 420
Veg light then add the bloom light can still keep being under both if you wanted
Sent from my Nexus 5 using 420
That makes sense now, I was wondering why the fans didn't run with just the bloom on. Good thing they didn't run for any period of time, I just turned them on to see what they would look like. Thanks for the tip
Is that a design flaw, or are the unit's heatsinks of great enough capacity to passively cool the LED panel in a reasonably ventilated grow area where the ambient temperature is not expected to be much higher than, say, 90°F or so at maximum?
Sent from my <SECURITY REDACTED> laptop using my mind and fingers.
What would be good side lighting for the epistar 320 in 4'9*4'9 tent. do you think a few par 38 would do much
The fans run with the Growth switch on by itself, but not with the Bloom switch on by itself. Not sure if it's a design flaw, but now that I think of it, most pics of seen with plants in flower with these lights, the light is definitely purple. Maybe the growth switch turns on the 'primary' lights and the bloom switch adds 'secondary' lights that aren't meant to run by themselves, in the spectrum that aids in flowering, Not really sure, but we will see
Well, sure. In the same way that you could measure the quickly decreasing O₂ content, the quickly increasing CO content, the increasing percentage of light, the increased amount of floating particulate matter... But most folks would just think, "Oh, there are flames and smoke everywhere - my house must be on fire." Just because something can be done in a complicated way does not mean that it should be :rolleyes3 .
Err... No. I am sorry, I assumed that you had, at one time or another, grown some kind of plant in a container. By "pick up the pot," I meant, well, exactly that, lol. Is it heavy? Must not be under-watered, then.
The proper way to grow cannabis in soil is to water it properly, then allow it to dry out (reasonably) - as opposed to giving it not enough water, too often. Soil gets heavier when it is watered than when it dries out. It isn't a slight difference, either, so you do not need an accurate scale - merely your own senses.
One reason that a light, well-draining soil is important is that it will not hold too much water (and for too long). You don't want a medium that will turn to mud (and you do not want to attempt to create mud). That is why, for most commercial soil products, adding copious amounts of perlite is so important.
I've used both switches the whole time for a few reasons:
1> They are introduced to the ir spectrum right as seedlings The ir lighting is actually used to simulate the morning unseen rays of light that encourages cell division causing you to have thicker stems and fatter leaves
2> On my light one switch controls one fan so with both on the heat sinks are getting an even distribution on heat across the light not just one side
3> No gapes in coverage/spectrum Like with the sun plants need a fuller spectrum just like they need variations in pH to maximize the nutrients they are up taking while in soil.
4> No spaces in par value
Not sure if this helps at all but just what is my understanding. Good morning/day/afternoon/night good vibes where ever you are and whatever you're doing.