Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion

That makes sense now, I was wondering why the fans didn't run with just the bloom on. Good thing they didn't run for any period of time, I just turned them on to see what they would look like. Thanks for the tip
 
Both switches have to be on or the fans to cool the unit won't even run

Is that a design flaw, or are the unit's heatsinks of great enough capacity to passively cool the LED panel in a reasonably ventilated grow area where the ambient temperature is not expected to be much higher than, say, 90°F or so at maximum?

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Sent from my <SECURITY REDACTED> laptop using my mind and fingers.
 
Is that a design flaw, or are the unit's heatsinks of great enough capacity to passively cool the LED panel in a reasonably ventilated grow area where the ambient temperature is not expected to be much higher than, say, 90°F or so at maximum?



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The fans run with the Growth switch on by itself, but not with the Bloom switch on by itself. Not sure if it's a design flaw, but now that I think of it, most pics of seen with plants in flower with these lights, the light is definitely purple. Maybe the growth switch turns on the 'primary' lights and the bloom switch adds 'secondary' lights that aren't meant to run by themselves, in the spectrum that aids in flowering, Not really sure, but we will see
 
:party:Congratulations!!! Did you send email to my colleague ?:high-five:
That is so amazing!!!! thank you so much mars hydro you have always been great to me, thanx again sara and i cant wait to be back up to 100% operational so i can show off the buds im growing under my mars lights again :Namaste:
 
Can not just diagnose by the leaves and the stem?

Well, sure. In the same way that you could measure the quickly decreasing O₂ content, the quickly increasing CO content, the increasing percentage of light, the increased amount of floating particulate matter... But most folks would just think, "Oh, there are flames and smoke everywhere - my house must be on fire." Just because something can be done in a complicated way does not mean that it should be :rolleyes3 .

Pick up the pot?You mean check the soil from the bottom?

Err... No. I am sorry, I assumed that you had, at one time or another, grown some kind of plant in a container. By "pick up the pot," I meant, well, exactly that, lol. Is it heavy? Must not be under-watered, then.

The proper way to grow cannabis in soil is to water it properly, then allow it to dry out (reasonably) - as opposed to giving it not enough water, too often. Soil gets heavier when it is watered than when it dries out. It isn't a slight difference, either, so you do not need an accurate scale - merely your own senses.

One reason that a light, well-draining soil is important is that it will not hold too much water (and for too long). You don't want a medium that will turn to mud (and you do not want to attempt to create mud). That is why, for most commercial soil products, adding copious amounts of perlite is so important.
 
:circle-of-love:We usually recommend growers:
1: During flowering stage. You need to turn both veg and flower switches on. Please note , it is both switches, that means veg switch included.
2: During Veg stage, We recommend you only turn the veg switch on, but if your power is not enough, you can turn both veg and flower switches on.
Most growers switch on both switches at from Veg to flowering,as long as your plants react good to the light,it will not be a big problem.:high-five:
Hello!

So I Have a few questions that I'm sure most people on this thread could answer, but I'm a first timer so there really isn't too many questions in my case. I bought three Mars 2 700w lights directly from their website a few months ago, but had to plan and execute a cross country move, so I'm just now able to get my grow going. Ive started with 2 DWCs, both under CFLs but eventually moving on to one of 700W Mars units.

So my questions are...

A) Should i use just the Growth switch during veg and just the Bloom Switch during flower, or can you use both switches at the same time? Im thinking use the Growth switch during veg, then flip on both switches when i flip to 12/12. Am i correct on this or is this too much stress on the light?

B) I am only using one of the 700W Mars 2 units I have. With that said, when is it a good time to put the full power of those 700W's on the plants? Each DWC is under its own 65W CFL, but when should I make the switch? I want to make sure i don't put too much on them too early, so i don't burn them up or anything.

Any feedback will be much appreciated. Thanks guys!
 
:thanks:Usually growers will turn on both switches:high-five:
Both switches have to be on or the fans to cool the unit won't even run

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:high-five:plants like more lights.:high-five:
Veg light then add the bloom light can still keep being under both if you wanted

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:high-five:yeah,by this way,also can save energy.:high-five:
That makes sense now, I was wondering why the fans didn't run with just the bloom on. Good thing they didn't run for any period of time, I just turned them on to see what they would look like. Thanks for the tip
 
When LED panel run in a closed tent,the heatsink only and the fan inside of the light only can help cool the light, if the inside the tent temperature is high,also can cause problem.:high-five:
Is that a design flaw, or are the unit's heatsinks of great enough capacity to passively cool the LED panel in a reasonably ventilated grow area where the ambient temperature is not expected to be much higher than, say, 90°F or so at maximum?



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Par 38 is small light,you can use it,it's good for side light:high-five:
What would be good side lighting for the epistar 320 in 4'9*4'9 tent. do you think a few par 38 would do much
 
I've used both switches the whole time for a few reasons:
1> They are introduced to the ir spectrum right as seedlings The ir lighting is actually used to simulate the morning unseen rays of light that encourages cell division causing you to have thicker stems and fatter leaves
2> On my light one switch controls one fan so with both on the heat sinks are getting an even distribution on heat across the light not just one side
3> No gapes in coverage/spectrum Like with the sun plants need a fuller spectrum just like they need variations in pH to maximize the nutrients they are up taking while in soil.
4> No spaces in par value

Not sure if this helps at all but just what is my understanding. Good morning/day/afternoon/night good vibes where ever you are and whatever you're doing.

2016-08-07-456.jpg
 
:circle-of-love:Mars II 700, each switch control one fan,the growth switch control 80pcs doides.:high-five:Our Relfector series,the growth switch control the fans.
The fans run with the Growth switch on by itself, but not with the Bloom switch on by itself. Not sure if it's a design flaw, but now that I think of it, most pics of seen with plants in flower with these lights, the light is definitely purple. Maybe the growth switch turns on the 'primary' lights and the bloom switch adds 'secondary' lights that aren't meant to run by themselves, in the spectrum that aids in flowering, Not really sure, but we will see
 
:thanks:I know if i pick up the pot will be easy to check out the problem.:high-five:
Thanks for sharing with me this nice idea,i will try it later with my tomato.:high-five:
Yeah i also read from some grow journals that grower should give water to their plants regularly,it will be good for plants.:high-five:
Well, sure. In the same way that you could measure the quickly decreasing O₂ content, the quickly increasing CO content, the increasing percentage of light, the increased amount of floating particulate matter... But most folks would just think, "Oh, there are flames and smoke everywhere - my house must be on fire." Just because something can be done in a complicated way does not mean that it should be :rolleyes3 .



Err... No. I am sorry, I assumed that you had, at one time or another, grown some kind of plant in a container. By "pick up the pot," I meant, well, exactly that, lol. Is it heavy? Must not be under-watered, then.

The proper way to grow cannabis in soil is to water it properly, then allow it to dry out (reasonably) - as opposed to giving it not enough water, too often. Soil gets heavier when it is watered than when it dries out. It isn't a slight difference, either, so you do not need an accurate scale - merely your own senses.

One reason that a light, well-draining soil is important is that it will not hold too much water (and for too long). You don't want a medium that will turn to mud (and you do not want to attempt to create mud). That is why, for most commercial soil products, adding copious amounts of perlite is so important.
 
:welcome:Hi Spart,thanks for sharing with us.:thanks:
Yes,our Mars II series,each switch control one fan:high-five:Most of our growers like turn on both switches,plants always like more lights.:cheertwo:
I've used both switches the whole time for a few reasons:
1> They are introduced to the ir spectrum right as seedlings The ir lighting is actually used to simulate the morning unseen rays of light that encourages cell division causing you to have thicker stems and fatter leaves
2> On my light one switch controls one fan so with both on the heat sinks are getting an even distribution on heat across the light not just one side
3> No gapes in coverage/spectrum Like with the sun plants need a fuller spectrum just like they need variations in pH to maximize the nutrients they are up taking while in soil.
4> No spaces in par value

Not sure if this helps at all but just what is my understanding. Good morning/day/afternoon/night good vibes where ever you are and whatever you're doing.

2016-08-07-456.jpg
 
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