Lower leaf yellowing, deficiency?

Pic of silica:
1676497691104.png
 
Thanks for the pic and I'll work that into the blend since it's got iron, magnesium, and yet more sulfur!
I'm absolutely fine with getting better nutes if it will help, I'm already planning to buy some LOS for a seperate 2x4 run which will use some dry top dressing amendments (Organic Dry Amendments & Pre-Mixed Soils - Living Soils - Really good UK LOS supplier that VetSmoke turned me onto). The nutes that are readily available here are Shogun, Canna & DutchPro
I'll see what those three brands look like later today and see if I can make a recommendation.

the Lucas Formula I linked is actually the same Tri-Part I'm using
The bottles in the pic are GH which I thought you said was slightly different from what you have.
 
Hi Weffalo - how did this get so complicated so quickly? lol

I've tried all of the nute lines you mentioned and they are all fine in their own right
Just curious - do you add any H2O2 to the res?
Adding your silicate last may well be the culprit, binding the nutes and destabilising the pH too
 
Hi Weffalo - how did this get so complicated so quickly? lol

I've tried all of the nute lines you mentioned and they are all fine in their own right
Just curious - do you add any H2O2 to the res?
Adding your silicate last may well be the culprit, binding the nutes and destabilising the pH too
I hope I didn't make it complicated. Definitely the silica first, and if that's precipitating out the rest. It wasn't in the original list!

I just was offering a different feed chart from the one the manufacturer recommends. And I noticed the US version GH line has many different numbers for their elements.
 
No sweat Shed, I see what you're working out
Any problems I always go back to basics to avoid rabbit holes, because I get easily lost lol
 
Thanks for the pic and I'll work that into the blend since it's got iron, magnesium, and yet more sulfur!

I'll see what those three brands look like later today and see if I can make a recommendation.


The bottles in the pic are GH which I thought you said was slightly different from what you have.
Yeah your not wrong mate, it is slightly different even though it is marketed here as "EU GH" so the LucasFormula probably won't work. I'm sure good results can be had with these nutes but if they don't have the correct ratios in flower, where I keep encountering issues... I'm happy to change.

It's not at all complicated but what's confusing is that I'm following the feed chart to the letter,including EC and PH checks, and this problem has come out of nowhere and looks bad... so the plant is complicated but I don't think the resolution or your advice is complicated at all mate <3

It's just curious how me using "bloom" nutes, start of week 3 - has led to this, I waited specifically until later in bloom before switching so I could still give lots of N during stretch, I'm not sure if I just mistimed it slightly or something else but it's definitely give me pause and concern on what your actually meant to do during this part.

My tri-part bottles are half empty already so it's really no big deal to switch nutes if it's gonna lead to healthier grows in future :)

Hi Weffalo - how did this get so complicated so quickly? lol

I've tried all of the nute lines you mentioned and they are all fine in their own right
Just curious - do you add any H2O2 to the res?
Adding your silicate last may well be the culprit, binding the nutes and destabilising the pH too
Yes indeed mate how did it go badly so quickly!? Literally 24 hours later and all my lower growth was super droopy and yellow, now 2-3 days later the lower growth is almost dead.

I've not added any H202, I do have some but I've not used it yet.

If Silica is the problem then that would be great, because it would give me the answer as to what I've done so wrong that this is happening so quickly :rofl: The thing is, I've been adding Silica throughout the process and it's only just become an issue? It seems like that would have appeared as an issue earlier unless it's maybe lots of residiual sediment in the res that's become worse over time?

Here are some update pics, I've only been able to fill the res once with the new mix so far:
tropbanday17_1.jpg
tropbanday17_3.jpg
tropbanday17_4.jpg
tropbanday17_5.jpg
tropbanday17_6.jpg
 
@InTheShed Thanks for weighing in mate. So I fed veg nutes for the first week of flower then switched to preflower nutes for a week, I've only just changed to bloom nutes. The full time I've been within the EC range from the chart (even slightly above it but thats due to adding CalMag). There is still plenty of N in the Micro but the Grow has loads too.

Here's a pic of the bottles with the NPK ratios on:

Tripart-all-in-one.png


The feed chart is weird but the way I understand it, you only use one of the base nutrients or base organic nutrients, I'm using the Tri-Part (top option) and then I'm also adding each of the supplements. Throughout veg I added fulvic, silica and seaweed once a week but now in flower that's just down to the "Pro Bloom" which is some sort of organic non NPK based booster and the silica, I've added seaweed once or twice but not in the last week.

It's not feasible for me to flush plants so I am just ignoring the "flush with flashclean" at each step, I figure that's more to be safe & to sell "FlashClean" :rofl:
I kept things simple from my last run with biobizz mate. I used lightmix alongside there nutes range so... fishmix in veg then biogrow, bloom, calmag and topmax there after.
 
I kept things simple from my last run with biobizz mate. I used lightmix alongside there nutes range so... fishmix in veg then biogrow, bloom, calmag and topmax there after.
Thanks @GreenFingaz. Simple sounds like a solid plan mate, glad you had success with BioBizz light as that's what I'm using too. Only difference is nute choice but I figure a light soil mix should be fine with most sythnetic nutes as it doesn't contain many additional nutrients that could skew inputs?

The T.A feed chart that I linked makes it seem super complex due to the range of different base nutrients they offer but ultimately it's just NPK, fulvic acid, seaweed, silica and some sort of root or bloom booster (Can't find the ingredients for this :rofl:) - From my limited noob experience they all seem like worthwhile and valuable inputs.

I will add BioBizz nutrients into the possible options I can switch too in future :thanks:
 
Thanks @GreenFingaz. Simple sounds like a solid plan mate, glad you had success with BioBizz light as that's what I'm using too. Only difference is nute choice but I figure a light soil mix should be fine with most sythnetic nutes as it doesn't contain many additional nutrients that could skew inputs?

The T.A feed chart that I linked makes it seem super complex due to the range of different base nutrients they offer but ultimately it's just NPK, fulvic acid, seaweed, silica and some sort of root or bloom booster (Can't find the ingredients for this :rofl:) - From my limited noob experience they all seem like worthwhile and valuable inputs.

I will add BioBizz nutrients into the possible options I can switch too in future :thanks:
Making life easier is the best way when it comes to nute lines imo. That bluecheese run I had I ended up with no issues all the way through
 
And I noticed the US version GH line has many different numbers for their elements.
Same company but the European, US and I believe the Australian products are from different divisions of the parent company US company. The differences have been around since the company started their divisions outside the US, so back into the 70s or 80s.

And, General Hydroponics was bought by Scott's back in 2015. They seem to be maintaining the differences in ratios, etc.
 
If Silica is the problem then that would be great, because it would give me the answer as to what I've done so wrong that this is happening so quickly :rofl: The thing is, I've been adding Silica throughout the process and it's only just become an issue? It seems like that would have appeared as an issue earlier unless it's maybe lots of residiual sediment in the res that's become worse over time?
If we consider the silica last issue as well as the timing, keep in mind that a flipped plant has different requirements from a veg plant, so an increase in demand for something not available might be a cause.

I haven't forgotten to check the alternative nutes, just haven't had a chance yet.
 
If we consider the silica last issue as well as the timing, keep in mind that a flipped plant has different requirements from a veg plant, so an increase in demand for something not available might be a cause.

I haven't forgotten to check the alternative nutes, just haven't had a chance yet.
No rush at all mate, it won't be until next run I use them anyway but I appreciate it thank you :)

I actually skipped silica on the last watering entirely just to be safe but I'll include it back in and mix it first. Praying she recovers before anything spreads to the canopy 🤞
 
On the 2nd fill of the res with the new mix now, 6.03ph and 1.83ms EC, nothing extra adding apart from 0.6ml Bloom booster. I know it will take a few days to start showing if it's rectifying but it's a very nerve wracking time as each day seems to be pretty rough damage-wise but we persevere 🙏

I was planning to remove lower growth in two days, but at the moment that seems foolish. I do wanna open the plant up though and increase airflow because with the higher temps it means higher humidity and last thing I want to do is add another problem with budrot. I guess I can lollipop a bit later if she gets under control 🤞

Day 19 update:
Camera /w flash:
tropban_flash_day18_1.jpg
tropban_flash_day18_2.jpg
tropban_flash_day18_4.jpg


Leds on:
tropban_led_day18_2.jpg
tropban_led_day18_3.jpg
tropban_led_day18_4.jpg
 
Hey guys,

I know how fast problems can snowball so wanted to get opinions on this asap so I can get it fixed :) Any advice or help is welcome, thanks.

Below the canopy my leaves are losing colour FAST, in only 24 hours they've lost a lot of green and everything under the canopy was super droopy. I know this area won't be getting much light so it may just be that but I wanted to make sure it's not a nutrient defiency or something else.

Quick summary of my environment and grow:

DLI at canopy height 38
VPD around 1.18 (50% rH, 24-25c)
Fed preflower nutrients up until yesterday (day 14 of flower) when I switched to bloom nutes /w 1ml/L CalMag, EC was 1.9 which is accurate according to feedchart.
Medium is Biobizz light soil with 40% perlite
5gal SIP container with res filled daily

terra_aquatica_tabela.jpg


And here is some pictures of the leaves and canopy above for reference:
tropban_day15_1.jpg
tropban_day15_2.jpg
tropban_day15_4.jpg
tropban_day15_7.jpg
tropban_day15_5.jpg
Looks kinda like pH problem
 
Looks kinda like pH problem
Thanks @Mountainman80 - I wouldn't think it would be as I've been checking with a calibrated PH pen religiously but I know that doesn't rule it out?

I guess I could do a slurry test and see what the soil is at? Not done one before but my testing probe can definitely do it, I guess with the SIP design you would need to get to the wet soil underneath the dry top layer for an accurate test...
 
CalMag is Vitalink but it's almost empty and I'll be switching to DutchPro instead lol >.< For now and for all previous feeds it's been the Vitalink, guaranteed analysis here:
Calmag.png


Now your mentioning it I'm not sure they are identical now, I'm not sure on the full story but the branding is almost identical but I think manufacturing/chemistry may now be different. The NPK values are slightly different now im checking images:
tripart-all-in-one-png.2648963


General-Hydroponics_product_FloraSeries_PerfPack_L.png
Flora series are awsoeme.nutes what I'm.using now.
 
Thanks @Mountainman80 - I wouldn't think it would be as I've been checking with a calibrated PH pen religiously but I know that doesn't rule it out?

I guess I could do a slurry test and see what the soil is at? Not done one before but my testing probe can definitely do it, I guess with the SIP design you would need to get to the wet soil underneath the dry top layer for an accurate test...
What was pH last time u checks.it no since.checking again if u been checking it liken u have older leaves will die off.mabey just trim all those yellow ones off.see how she does.over the next 5-10days
 
Hey guys,

I know how fast problems can snowball so wanted to get opinions on this asap so I can get it fixed :) Any advice or help is welcome, thanks.

Below the canopy my leaves are losing colour FAST, in only 24 hours they've lost a lot of green and everything under the canopy was super droopy. I know this area won't be getting much light so it may just be that but I wanted to make sure it's not a nutrient defiency or something else.

Quick summary of my environment and grow:

DLI at canopy height 38
VPD around 1.18 (50% rH, 24-25c)
Fed preflower nutrients up until yesterday (day 14 of flower) when I switched to bloom nutes /w 1ml/L CalMag, EC was 1.9 which is accurate according to feedchart.
Medium is Biobizz light soil with 40% perlite
5gal SIP container with res filled daily

terra_aquatica_tabela.jpg


And here is some pictures of the leaves and canopy above for reference:
tropban_day15_1.jpg
tropban_day15_2.jpg
tropban_day15_4.jpg
tropban_day15_7.jpg
tropban_day15_5.jpg
I'd just trim.them.off watch her prob sucking nutes from the fans normal
 
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