Look at this beauty! I'm looking for some tips :) I'm very anxious

[Snowman1]

Generally speaking 30-35 watts per square foot is a good rule of thumb.
I'm using a @VIVOSUN 650w in my 5x5.
It's a brilliant light, I've had fantastic results with it.
It's only 26-W./sq/ft.
You can do a lot with less than 30.
But that is a good starting point.
Always buy the best you can get , I recommend.
I see people with something smaller than they want all the time.
Buy the right one the first time.
Light requirements in flower increase.
But plants grow up into the light usually reducing the height from canopy level.
Usually this is enough.
Unless you have a 10 foot grow room most lights are stuck at the top with the plants close , by harvest.
So usually not much room for adjustment.
There is something called DLI,, daylight integral that will tell you how much light she is getting.
You read light par and multiple it by duration of light.
That will give you a better idea of light intensity.
That's a lot of math I don't do.
I read my canopy and can tell if I can increase my strength.
But as a rule of thumb I have my lights at 100% before I go to flower.
Then I keep my lights close as I can without adverse effects.



Stay safe
Bill284

That is great information and I appreciate that. So as it is in veg, your lights are pretty close to the canopy, correct? Then when she goes to flower, raise the light up not to hi but adjust as she grows taller for a bigger yield?
I am definitely going to look into the light that you suggested and do some more research. Thank you for your knowledge

 

[Bill284]

That is great information and I appreciate that. So as it is in veg, your lights are pretty close to the canopy, correct? Then when she goes to flower, raise the light up not to hi but adjust as she grows taller for a bigger yield?
I am definitely going to look into the light that you suggested and do some more research. Thank you for your knowledge

I just realized we are in someone else's journal.
My apologies @newfarmeragain



Stay safe
Bill284

 

[SmokingWings]

I am trying to figure out how I can grow my girls tops super long like I see on here. Where the top point is about 7 to 8in Long if not longer.

As @bluter mentions "it's mostly about light and nutrients. genetics help, some full sativas develop different, but most plants will do it with some help.".

It takes money. Spend big on lights and on fertilizers. My thoughts are that you can skimp a bit on lights, but just a bit, as long as the fertilizers and schedule are good. Quality lights are great and but if the plant is not getting the nutrients it needs when it needs them then the best lights available will not be enough to make up for that deficiency. Help, yes, but not enough in the end.

 

[Snowman1]

Thank you for that advice. There's a lot of conversations about the best light. I hear spider farmer is one of the top brands (what size would you use for a 4x4?).
I am trying to keep my girls as clean/ organic as possible (That's why I'm using chicken manure).
Which nutrients seem to be the best? I know this might create a lot of replies on what is best and any advice is good advice. What is it that you use?

 

[Bill284]

The best light I’ve ever had in my grow room is the VSF645 by @VIVOSUN
It’s comparable with the Grow Hub controller.
Runs my lights fans and circulation system.
Might be over kill in a 4x4 , they have a 430 w version for smaller setups but I’ve never used it.
I’ve been using Mega Crop by @Greenleaf Nutrients for a year now with excellent results.
Easy to use and economical.
But I’ve used nutrients from several of our sponsors with good results aswell.
So there’s lots of options.
What’s available locally?
Here’s Buba Whip from @North Atlantic Seed Co
She was fed Mega Crop for 9 months

Bubba Whip

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• Bill284
• Oct 25, 2024

Stay safe
Bill284

 

[bluter]

Thank you for that advice. There's a lot of conversations about the best light. I hear spider farmer is one of the top brands (what size would you use for a 4x4?).

they are over priced for what you get.

 

[SmokingWings]

I hear spider farmer is one of the top brands (what size would you use for a 4x4?).

I use basic LED fixtures. I bought them when I first started out in 2017 and since then have only had to replace some of the LED lamps in the 2 and 4 foot fixtures. Also bought a few LED pod lights in the first year or two and have replaced a couple of them which is a lot cheaper than buying a whole new light fixture.

The fertilizers are a lot more important than many growers, especially those who are new, realize.

I sometimes cringe when I read a new grower ask what is going wrong with their plants and then say that they are not using a fertilizer because they do not have the money. Can almost hear them say that fertilizers get used once and then the level in the bottle or bag goes down. Before long they will have to buy more so why spend the money seems to be what they really want to say.

Which nutrients seem to be the best?

Just about every one of them will do the job. Learn how to read the NPK numbers and know what each of the three macro nutrients will do for the plant. Follow the instructions on amounts and how often to use that fertilizer.Using half or quarter of the amounts will not save money, will not save time, and will not improve the quality of whatever is being grown.

I am trying to keep my girls as clean/ organic as possible (That's why I'm using chicken manure).

More to growing organic than just an ingredient or even several ingredients. To be considered organic the user has to know that the chickens were fed with organically grown grains and feed ingredients. The user has to know that chicken farmer only gave medicines, supplements, hormones or vaccines to the chickens that also have an organic rating. The list goes on.

Trying to go "organic" can become very frustrating. I figure the way to do it is to grow with natural ingredients and to use what are considered natural methods. It will allow more leeway and while it will not rate an "organic" label it should be good in the end.

 

[Azimuth]

More to growing organic than just an ingredient or even several ingredients. To be considered organic the user has to know that the chickens were fed with organically grown grains and feed ingredients. The user has to know that chicken farmer only gave medicines, supplements, hormones or vaccines to the chickens that also have an organic rating. The list goes on.

Trying to go "organic" can become very frustrating. I figure the way to do it is to grow with natural ingredients and to use what are considered natural methods. It will allow more leeway and while it will not rate an "organic" label it should be good in the end.

And most of us are not trying get certified as organic. I consider what I do as organic as I grow mostly from inputs from my backyard but have no interest in trying to prove to anyone how "pure" I am. I only grow for me so use what I feel I need.

 

[bluter]

And most of us are not trying get certified as organic.

kinda with you on that one.
honesty for home folk, there's a little latitude that can be applied.

 

[newfarmeragain]

Let's update on the process: I harvested and put the buds to dry in the same tent. I hung them on some hangers, and in 7 days they were ready.

The humidity stayed between 45% and 70%, mostly around 55% to 65%. Once they were ready, I put them in airtight jars and left them closed for 3 hours, just with the buds, to stabilize the humidity, which settled at around 58-59%. Then I added a 62% Boveda pack and am opening the jars daily for 15 minutes.

Is my method correct? What additional care should I take now that they’re in the jars?

After drying, the yield was almost 10oz, which I’m really happy with! Of course, before jarring, I took a sample to see if it would burn well… I was really impressed by the taste and the effect it was absolutely worth all the time and effort! I just want to thank all of you who have helped along this journey. THANK YOU SO MUCH!

But I’m not stopping here, LOL. I'm already having some issues with the clone I took, so I'll start another topic for that! Once again, thank you so much!

 

[Azimuth]

Once you get down to 58-62 you can just quickly burp them to exchange the air, but don't need to leave them out for any period of time like you need to when you're trying to dry them out a bit.

 

[Trump]

Once you get down to 58-62 you can just quickly burp them to exchange the air, but don't need to leave them out for any period of time like you need to when you're trying to dry them out a bit.

Agree. When I'm at the burping stage I like to transfer the flowers into another jar so that the flowers that were at the bottom get relocated towards the top of the jar where the flowers in that area tend to dry a little quicker. I've found it evens out the dry a little better.

@Bill284 likes to turn his jars upside down without having to transfer for the same effect.