I thought you had said this plant that you're growing was/is your first grow? Perhaps I have confused you with someone else.
LMAO Cloning For Dummies
- Thread starter Imhigh85
- Start date
I thought you had said this plant that you're growing was/is your first grow? Perhaps I have confused you with someone else.
907skunk
New Member
My third ...first grow got raided so didn't make it far...second time I got to harvest..that was maybe year ago
And those look horrible, to be honest.
If you're trying to prove that clones can be rooted under a 4w night light & initially veg'd under a bic lighter, I'd say you proved your point. But I'm pretty sure your target audience isn't in a third world barrio, so your $0.99 cloning "solution" is nothing more than a novelty.
A $30 DIY aeroponic cloner under a CFL will get you nice clones, rooted in 7-14 days, without ever going through the kind of wholly unnecessary stress you're inflicting on those cuttings, which can have adverse effects going forward.
14 days after rooting, most properly done clones are 8"-10" tall, with many new growth sites, and ready for transplant into next-size pots. What you're doing is inefficient as hell, and if it's not being put out there as "Experimental Ghetto Cloning For College Freshmen in Dorms" humor on FunnyOrDie, I suggest people read elsewhere to learn cloning.
Ok,️
Well come on Skunkworkz! Show us all what you got! Don't just come into a thread and bash and berate the OP. If you have something constructive to share we would all like to hear it, and in this case see the $30 DIY cloner. Detailed instructions with photos would be really helpful for those of us who are brand new.
In case you didn't catch it, the whole reason Imhigh85 started this thread was to show everyone that cloning is not rocket science. That you don't need fancy machines, sterile tools, PH'd water, rooting powder or solution. That you could take a cutting of a plant, toss it into a glass of tap water, and it would eventually root a high percentage of the time.
So if you're prepared to share with everyone the system you use that would be great. But if you are just having a bad day and feel the need to brow beat and berate the OP of a thread please go find another one.
- Thread starter
- #1,104
Imhigh85
Well-Known Member
What did they do to you when they raided U? Or did they do nothing at all
907skunk
New Member
It was just 1 plant but they came for my roommate and he was looking at some time so he just took the fall for it but they dropped all that cause he had bigger things to worry about...but they took it and all my weed and pipes bongs everything so I got off with nothing as long as I told em where everything was
907skunk
New Member
Ok so if I use the fan I have or any fan really I would I go about keeping the light from getting inside when they're sleeping
- Thread starter
- #1,107
Imhigh85
Well-Known Member
Yes you need it to be light tight so no light is going out and no light is coming in
907skunk
New Member
Yea I know but how...light would go through the fan if I happen to turn on bedroom light during off time
- Thread starter
- #1,109
Imhigh85
Well-Known Member
You can use a black cloth of some kind or a blackout curtain on the back in order to keep the light out heat and Vapor will still be able to move through
907skunk
New Member
Hmmm I thought about that but on front side ...well guess would be on outside...so the fan is blowing it instead of pulling it making the fan work harder
- Thread starter
- #1,111
Imhigh85
Well-Known Member
Cloth used on either side would help would also act as a filter cleaning the air another idea is to build a box frame on the backside of it that you can lower to the ground within an inch or two keeping the light at a minimum and allowing it to cool air through like an air conditioning duct
Keep in mind that light cannot go around a bend/corner. I think if you were to take a piece of dryer hose and put a few 90 degree bends in it the light wouldn't make it into the room.
907skunk
New Member
One step closer...don't mind my ghetto fabulous tape job...old house and Unlevel walls lol
907skunk
New Member
And I even found a hole in the wall that was already there and sucks in air from under the house so there's my fresh air intake lol...with the door shut it has a great vacuum affect too...I'm pretty proud of myself so far...and only have maybe $20 invested in the whole thing
907skunk
New Member
Doing a test run for heat....I'll be ordering another indoor/outdoor humidity meter soon
907skunk
New Member
Another question ...heat in the room...where is the best place for the temp gauge....I've read all kinds of theories
Grow Bro
Well-Known Member
Much appreciated friend!!! I will do. I dont know much about breeding yet. I am busy with my 2 nd indoor grow now. Flowering a durban poison and amnesia in my 1m by 1m by 1.8m tent. Got a 600w led in their.
I'm glad the ww is unsexed. Now im hoping it is a male.
Thanks.
907skunk
New Member
I found this but idk
In order to know you are providing the right thermal environment for you plants through ventilation, oscillating fans etc. you need to understand the physical nature of the 'heat' in grow spaces, how it should be measured, and the mistakes that can easily be made.
Essentially there are two aspects to the thermal environment that you need to be aware of:
1. The AIR temperature
2. The RADIANT temperature
Although obviously related, these are 2 distinctly separate phenomena and your plants have different tolerances for each.
1. Air temperature
Your standard mercury/alcohol-bulb or digital thermometer is designed to measure the temperature of the air (But not radiant heat). This is what is being referred to in the usual growers 'rules of thumb' such as maintaining your grow above 16degC and below 30degC.
Most thermometers are only designed to measure air temperature â€" growers often mistakenly place their thermometer in direct light; radiant energy will warm your thermometer and give a higher than actual reading.
*Assuming your air is well mixed up by oscillating fans, it doesn't really matter where you locate your thermometer. The best spot is probably about half the way up a wall, with a piece of cardboard over it (To shade it from radiant heat), exposed to the mixed air in the grow room.
2. Radiant temperature
Radiant temperature is the result of heat transfer bewteen objects at different temperatures without whats inbetween i.e. the air, being effected. In our case the plants are naturally at a lower temperature that the light and reflector so heat is transferred to the plants foliage from the light/refecltor through radiation. This causes the leaves to heat up. The plants can withstand much higher radiant temperatures (around 40-50degC) than they can air temperatures but if this is too high the plants can 'burn'.
The plants can withstand much higher radiant temperatures than they can air temperatures, but if this is too high the plants can “burnâ€.
'The hand test': Place your hand in a comfortable position for some time at the tips of your plants should be. If your hand feels “hotâ€, then the lights are too close, the radiant energy is too intense, and light burn may result. Do this test and raise your HID lights/reflectors periodically to keep light burn to a minimum.
Finally, monitor the conditions in your grow regularly as things are changing all the time, and you will soon get to understand the thermal dynamics of your particular grow space so you can get the most from it.
Editor's note:
[Cannabis loves high light levels/high radiant energy levels, but exceeding their tolerance for light can result in light burn and chlorophyll leaching out of the leaves. 600's & 1000's put out a lot of light, and light burn can easily damage clones and young plants.
Light burn damage: initially the leaves look pale green (the edges may turn upwards, mimicking a Mg deficiency), then they turn yellow and finally yellow/brown as the leaves scorch.
Often you can see a circular pattern of intense light where the reflector has focused the light onto the plants. If plants outside of this intense light zone look greener and healthier, consider raising your lights.]
In order to know you are providing the right thermal environment for you plants through ventilation, oscillating fans etc. you need to understand the physical nature of the 'heat' in grow spaces, how it should be measured, and the mistakes that can easily be made.
Essentially there are two aspects to the thermal environment that you need to be aware of:
1. The AIR temperature
2. The RADIANT temperature
Although obviously related, these are 2 distinctly separate phenomena and your plants have different tolerances for each.
1. Air temperature
Your standard mercury/alcohol-bulb or digital thermometer is designed to measure the temperature of the air (But not radiant heat). This is what is being referred to in the usual growers 'rules of thumb' such as maintaining your grow above 16degC and below 30degC.
Most thermometers are only designed to measure air temperature â€" growers often mistakenly place their thermometer in direct light; radiant energy will warm your thermometer and give a higher than actual reading.
*Assuming your air is well mixed up by oscillating fans, it doesn't really matter where you locate your thermometer. The best spot is probably about half the way up a wall, with a piece of cardboard over it (To shade it from radiant heat), exposed to the mixed air in the grow room.
2. Radiant temperature
Radiant temperature is the result of heat transfer bewteen objects at different temperatures without whats inbetween i.e. the air, being effected. In our case the plants are naturally at a lower temperature that the light and reflector so heat is transferred to the plants foliage from the light/refecltor through radiation. This causes the leaves to heat up. The plants can withstand much higher radiant temperatures (around 40-50degC) than they can air temperatures but if this is too high the plants can 'burn'.
The plants can withstand much higher radiant temperatures than they can air temperatures, but if this is too high the plants can “burnâ€.
'The hand test': Place your hand in a comfortable position for some time at the tips of your plants should be. If your hand feels “hotâ€, then the lights are too close, the radiant energy is too intense, and light burn may result. Do this test and raise your HID lights/reflectors periodically to keep light burn to a minimum.
Finally, monitor the conditions in your grow regularly as things are changing all the time, and you will soon get to understand the thermal dynamics of your particular grow space so you can get the most from it.
Editor's note:
[Cannabis loves high light levels/high radiant energy levels, but exceeding their tolerance for light can result in light burn and chlorophyll leaching out of the leaves. 600's & 1000's put out a lot of light, and light burn can easily damage clones and young plants.
Light burn damage: initially the leaves look pale green (the edges may turn upwards, mimicking a Mg deficiency), then they turn yellow and finally yellow/brown as the leaves scorch.
Often you can see a circular pattern of intense light where the reflector has focused the light onto the plants. If plants outside of this intense light zone look greener and healthier, consider raising your lights.]
Grow Bro
Well-Known Member
Nice work bro!!
this is my special star I did not expect this first time I have taken clones from this plant threw them into a black cup of water today has been 5 days I checked it today she's already showing the first signs of roots at 5 days I think tomorrow I will put her in cocoa and let her go I guess five days is the time to beat right now LOL
Grow Bro
Well-Known Member
Wow can only dream of growing so many plants. .