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Great timing on your part for the top dressing and the feeding/tea you are reading her well. You are correct on more soil lol. 10 gals is bulletproof but 2-3 gals is how you learn. Now you need to be pro-active on her needs not re-active. If you can feed her right before she looks hungry thats perfect. No harm will come if the meal is late but where it does show up at is in yield. Her life is on countdown so every day counts now. Tend her every need now and dont worry too much if she gets a bit on the wet side as she will be starting to drink alot now so you can dry her out any time. Straight water once a day even if its only a small amount is really important every day till the end now. As she chunks up you are still growing alot of plant matter in the buds but also alot of resin/terpene growth too so you are in both flower and veg until the last 18 days or so when chunk is over and the gooey season begins. Feed her like shes in flower but water her like shes in veg and she will get fat and heavy. You will need to think about support for your colas pretty soon. She looks very fine
I actually did a bit of reading on that subject, only briefly tho, Lucky from another thread was mentioning it, so the brief research I did on it hinted at colder water holds more oxygen but warmer water stimulates phosphorous production. If that is true it would kind of mimick nature as we get very warm rains in the late summer/early fall and thats when plants need the phosphorus. See if you can find anything on that? If it works well hey, free phosphorus!
That's nice of you to say Kman! I'm glad you're picking this up as you are! GEE is putting tools at your reach, mine too, that will make growing better for the rest of life! Thanks GEE! I'm here soaking it all up too from the back seat!
I'm just passing on what was given to me. I'm glad its helping.
I appreciate it GEE! I've heard a lot of what you're saying before. My retention isn't getting any better and you have a very good way of explaining. One day it'll be first nature and all this will be at the tips of my fingers more readily.I'm just passing on what was given to me. I'm glad its helping.
The BSM is a real good reminder because that’s exactly what would happen and it would eventually throw off the soil biology through evolution. Similar to building immunities and whatnot, the microbes would eventually forfeit some of their processes since it’s wasted energy.
Im a huge fan of fish. There are 2 kinds of fish fertilizer. Emulsion and hydrolysate. Stay away from emulsion its been cooked and alot of goodness is gone. If the product says something like "cold pressed or cold extracted" thats hydrolysate . A 5 gal pail, so 20 litres should call for about 30ml or 2 tablespoons. I have never made a fungal tea before because I have always started with building a fungal dominant soil, then increasing the microbes thru ewc and/or a compost tea. If you didnt add alot of extra myco during uppotting then a fungal tea should show you some big love. I use fish at least once a week mixed in r/o water and un-ph'd. I know I mentioned it before but I would imagine you have read and learned a huge pile of knowledge lately and your brain is getting full so I will mention it again. Fish fert, as with all organics foods, is best served in numerous lighter doses than one heavy dose. As for humic acid/humic ore/leonardite or any of the other names it goes by, they are organic chelators. Im not a fan of chelators normally as its basically hydroponics for organics and to a large degree bypasses the fungus but... You are more or less in a constant state of rescue now because of the small pot size so yeah I would add it. It will allow the plant greater uptake of nutrients. Next grow when you have an experienced plan keep the humic products in your rescue kit as they work well, but as you stated, you are throwing the soil biology out of balance. So its a rescue tool. Be careful with it as it magnifies what you do by upping intake. Nute burn happens easier. As for carbon I would mainly stick to BSM to be honest. Theres a very good reason people use it...Its dirt cheap and it works really well. Next grow you can add bulk to your potsize with coco or spagnum peat as both are excellent sources of carbon. If you wont re-use the soil go with the peat as coco can contain salt, but if you plan to reuse the soil use coco, just make sure its reputable. I use Canna Organic Coco myself with no problems. The reason for coco on reusable soil is because recycling peatmoss will slowly and steadily dive your ph and you will crash at grow 3 or 4. Also remember, if you ever add a calcium ingredient, other than ewc, to a tea, add it 1st and let it bubble for an hour. This is because calcium sets the proper EC in the solution and that changes the electomagnetic fields of the other ingredients. If you add calcium last all your other ingredients could be stuck to each other electrically( think static magnetism) and the calcium wont have time to neutralize the charges before you feed it to the plants and all the food is locked up and non-bioavailable to the plant. If your calcium is ewc adding it last wont hurt as you are going to bubble it for 24 hours so the calcium in it has time to work its magic. Thats a bit more than your question but if we are talking teas...
