Try supercropping the branches before you tie them down. That shifts the stress point out a bit and has you tieing them down rather than out and down. Much less stress on the trunk that way.
Keffkas Seedsman Comparative: Purple Ghost Candy
- Thread starter Keffka
- Start date
Alright! Topped and on to the next thing! I'm almost ready to pot up to SIP. A few more days. 
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- #183
Day 24, White and Yellow have been topped and have reconfigured their growth
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- #184
I tried this last grow and it wound up stunting the growth on the plant. By the time I can super crop without stunting I have already been tying down the branches for a while. They’ll start getting tied down the moment they’re half an inch from the main stem. I think it’s going to be down to the fact only two side branches come off the main so there’s nowhere for the plant to reroute while it rebuilds
It would likely be more effective if done a couple weeks before bloom, once I already have the 8 colas established and building up
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- #185
Shots from this morning before resetting the room for warmer weather
If people look closely they can see the plants leaning toward the middle of the light fixture. At 25% it’s noticeably brighter in the center of the fixture. What some may not know is that the plant isn’t actually leaning toward the light, nor is it following the sun. What is actually occurring is the auxins in the tips are damaged by light exposure. So to prevent this light exposure damage the auxins move toward the shady part of the plant. Since they are all moving into the shady part it causes the cells in that part of the plant to grow quicker and elongate more. So the plant isn’t leaning toward the light because it likes it, it’s just growing quicker and larger in the area shaded from the light, because that’s where the auxins have escaped to, thus making the plant appear as if it’s leaning toward the light.
If people look closely they can see the plants leaning toward the middle of the light fixture. At 25% it’s noticeably brighter in the center of the fixture. What some may not know is that the plant isn’t actually leaning toward the light, nor is it following the sun. What is actually occurring is the auxins in the tips are damaged by light exposure. So to prevent this light exposure damage the auxins move toward the shady part of the plant. Since they are all moving into the shady part it causes the cells in that part of the plant to grow quicker and elongate more. So the plant isn’t leaning toward the light because it likes it, it’s just growing quicker and larger in the area shaded from the light, because that’s where the auxins have escaped to, thus making the plant appear as if it’s leaning toward the light.
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- #186
Day 25, there they go. I’ll be increasing the light to 50% over the next few days as the plants overcome their deficit
RhastaBlasta
Well-Known Member
Those plants looks quite healthy and promising. Did you get those from seedsman? I regretfully never had a good experience with themDay 25, there they go. I’ll be increasing the light to 50% over the next few days as the plants overcome their deficit
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- #188
Thank you! They would look better, however I had a ppm meter that was giving me false readings in the beginning so I starved them a bit more than I intended lol. That’s okay though, if a mistake is going to happen it’s best it happens early.
These are from @SeedsMan they’re called Purple Ghost Candy. I have a few Blue Thais in the mix as well but those aren’t from Seedsman. You can tell the seedsman specific plants by the colored tags in their pots and they are usually the focus of the images.
These were given to me by Seedsman for a comparative grow. So far I’ve had very good success despite the mistakes. Was your experience with seedsman not good because of customer service or because of the plants themselves?
Thanks for stopping in and engaging!
I'm hoping for the warmth to come by here! Mine are shivering at 60f lights out! Mid 70's on.
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- #190
I’ve spent a lot of money on heating and humidity so far just biding my time for the weather to turn. I can say with confidence the plant wants at least mid 70s, closer to 80-82 would be optimum. 85 works but you better have your VPD, watering, and nutrition dialed all the way in.
If you’re struggling to keep them warm enough make sure your VPD is on point. This way, at least the plant will keep its pace and you won’t run into as many uptake issues.
Myco also helps immensely for temperature issues. This is a bit tougher since you can’t just flip a switch and turn it on
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- #191
Here’s some more myco knowledge for folks. Plants have the ability to turn specific myco species on and off as needed. Since each species has specific functions, or specialities, the plant can pick and choose which it wants to activate.
This of course means that if we are applying myco, we should be looking at having a greater diversity of species. Diversity is king in nature. There are a lot of products out there that come with only one or two species of myco. While this is better than applying none, it’s not as good as applying many. Next time you’re looking for myco, I highly suggest Great White or something very similar. Not only does it come with a diverse variety of myco it also comes with a diverse collection of beneficial bacteria as well. Bacteria can be useful for things like nutrient cycling, disease resistance, and P uptake to name a few.
Now, one thing not often said that deserves repeating is, myco wont increase your yield or quality beyond its max. What this means is, if all of your limiting factors are dialed in and your plant is healthy and conditions are perfect, you won’t see a benefit. However, most grows aren’t perfect, indoors or out. We have temp swings, pest pressures, stressors, just to name a few. What myco does is smooth those hiccups out. With myco a missed watering is less stressful. Temp swings are less impactful. Pests and pathogens have a harder time breaking through. Myco helps to smooth all of this out, and keeps your minimum level raised.
This of course means that if we are applying myco, we should be looking at having a greater diversity of species. Diversity is king in nature. There are a lot of products out there that come with only one or two species of myco. While this is better than applying none, it’s not as good as applying many. Next time you’re looking for myco, I highly suggest Great White or something very similar. Not only does it come with a diverse variety of myco it also comes with a diverse collection of beneficial bacteria as well. Bacteria can be useful for things like nutrient cycling, disease resistance, and P uptake to name a few.
Now, one thing not often said that deserves repeating is, myco wont increase your yield or quality beyond its max. What this means is, if all of your limiting factors are dialed in and your plant is healthy and conditions are perfect, you won’t see a benefit. However, most grows aren’t perfect, indoors or out. We have temp swings, pest pressures, stressors, just to name a few. What myco does is smooth those hiccups out. With myco a missed watering is less stressful. Temp swings are less impactful. Pests and pathogens have a harder time breaking through. Myco helps to smooth all of this out, and keeps your minimum level raised.
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- #192
Here’s some sweet bacteria shots.
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- #193
Here’s the rhizophagy cycle illustrated, a plant can get 30% of its total N requirement (and a whole host of other nutrients) from these little guys pulling it out of the air
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- #194
Day 26, new growth is green and vibrant. Time to start planning for the next containers. These plants have about 20 days left in their current pots. They’ll spend 2-3 weeks in their next containers before we flip to flower
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- #195
I’m about to say screw it and just insulate my attic. I spend a lot of time, energy, and money, just to keep my room a few degrees cooler than I want it and a little less humid than I want. Once summer hits it will be warmer and more humid than I want it, and I’ll still spend a boatload on energy costs
I can’t use a tent because I’m in a Detroit bungalow attic so the roof is sloped in multiple directions. Currently I use a hodgepodge of grow tent pieces for the walls, a ceiling piece is hung along the slopes above, with a second outer layer akin to a mini lung room, made of heavy and wool blankets. It keeps the extremes at bay but I’m at the mercy of the weather. Due to the passive nature of the setup I’m constantly refilling humidifiers and spend a lot of power on heating air that escapes anyway. Come summer, the attic is shaded most of the day but the grow room itself still gets quite hot without opening the tent up and I don’t want to do that mid flower.
This is a rental house. That is my major hesitation. It’s not the growing it’s the fact that I don’t want to spend my own money insulating the attic for his benefit. He won’t knock off rent for it since he doesn’t want or need it done. I think I’m gonna say screw it and do it anyway. Nothing fancy. I’m thinking about 100 sq feet of R14 should be enough. I’m not even gonna dry wall it, just install the insulation.
I’ve been talking about doing this since the first grow in this room. I’m gonna keep my eyes out for insulation deals now that I’m thinking about it not in the dead of winter
I can’t use a tent because I’m in a Detroit bungalow attic so the roof is sloped in multiple directions. Currently I use a hodgepodge of grow tent pieces for the walls, a ceiling piece is hung along the slopes above, with a second outer layer akin to a mini lung room, made of heavy and wool blankets. It keeps the extremes at bay but I’m at the mercy of the weather. Due to the passive nature of the setup I’m constantly refilling humidifiers and spend a lot of power on heating air that escapes anyway. Come summer, the attic is shaded most of the day but the grow room itself still gets quite hot without opening the tent up and I don’t want to do that mid flower.
This is a rental house. That is my major hesitation. It’s not the growing it’s the fact that I don’t want to spend my own money insulating the attic for his benefit. He won’t knock off rent for it since he doesn’t want or need it done. I think I’m gonna say screw it and do it anyway. Nothing fancy. I’m thinking about 100 sq feet of R14 should be enough. I’m not even gonna dry wall it, just install the insulation.
I’ve been talking about doing this since the first grow in this room. I’m gonna keep my eyes out for insulation deals now that I’m thinking about it not in the dead of winter
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- #196
A shot of a plant calling for microbes with exudates, and a study on root growth
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- #197
A few more days and we’ll start deciding on a top dressing. I’m likely going to do a high N blood meal based top dressing, something like 2 parts blood meal 1 part kelp meal 1 part bone meal
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- #198
Day 27, the whole crew shifted to darker green over night. It’s one of my favorite moments, when the plants begin to take on their full true coloring. In about two weeks no one will ever know we starved our kids
You may get a return on that in heat and ac savings. Also grow runs won't be slow. To insulate the ceiling of a roof it needs a vent on the ridge or heat will get trapped and blow the shingle life out for the owner.
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- #200
On the ridge itself? The roof has multiple vents on the slopes about 2 feet from the ridge. I don’t recall a vent on the ridge itself but I’ll double check tonight