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- #1,261
The cups.. Went with different practical designs and old school holes on the bottom only on some. 5 green, 5 red, PGC is going in the green and the Blue Thai in red
Keffka's Recycling, KOS Blue Thai, Herbies Seeds Apple Betty, Runtz Punch
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- #1,262
Filled. Pressed my pinky down to the cuticle in the center. I’ll roll seeds in myco then drop them straight in the hole. I’ll lightly cover it then water in just slightly with myco water. I expect all 5 Blue Thai with no issues, and we’ll see how the Seedsman seeds go. In my experience, they’ll all germinate, it’s whether or not they’re strong.
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- #1,263
There’s already a myco charge in the seedling mix but I don’t leave myco to chance so I roll seeds and use the seed roll myco for my watering in
Hey @Keffka, finally getting some time back to play elsewhere besides my own damn journal. And maybe my timing is perfect? Does this indicate you are about to start a bunch of new girls? Also, curious - are you capable of matching the specific microbe to the plant element they create? I always see these microbe ID charts but they are meaningless if I can’t digest them and spit them back out to say things like, oh, this mix needs more bacillus cadillus to make a bit more Nitrogen, or whatever. Or is that a complete pipe dream?Mix for 10 seeds.
1.25 gallons of seedling mix (Coast of Maine Sprout Island) cut with 2 cups of perlite and watered with 1L of microbe water (pure water with microbes* added). Mixed up thoroughly and placed near the radiator to get life bumping. Enough for 10 Seeds that will go in tomorrow or Monday
*Microbes 2 ml per L
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- #1,265
Yep getting ready to start 10 plants indoors and 2 autos outdoors
Yes you can match specific microbes to the elements they provide more of, however the microbes I added are different.
First, the majority of the nutrient fixing microbes we use, all fix the various nutrients during their lifecycle. They use N to birth, K for energy, etc. So during their lifecycles they’re automatically grabbing up these elements and either make them available or they become available upon death. We can go a little deeper and more explicit later, I’m getting ready for work and wanted to touch on the specific ones I added.
Lichenformis is used a lot for its enzyme production as well as its probiotic nature. It helps resist disease, can help shield plants from ph swings, and promotes growth
Pumilus helps protect the plant against environmental stresses and prevents pathogens
Subtilis is a plant growth promoting rhizobacteria that also helps suppress biotic and abiotic stressors
Paenibacillus polymyxa fixes Nitrogen. It also will move into plant roots and create a biofilm making it difficult for pathogens to stress the plants
The one thing these all have in common is they all act as root defenders. Basically you can view them as a vanguard and defenders. They will go to work in the soil clearing a path of baddies for the roots. They will also link up with the roots and protect them like padding almost. These microbes working together enable the plant to grow roots vigorously while allowing the plant to dedicate less energy on protection and more on growth.
They all do even more but those are the bigger reasons for using them.
At this point in time, we know A LOT of the microbes in the soil but we’re still learning. Like how we just learned that rhizophagy bacteria are what drive root hair growth by literally exploding out of root ends.
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- #1,266
The soil hit 80F about 12 hours ago so I’ll be dropping seeds in tonight. I’ve gone back and forth about myco watering and I think I’m gonna do two rounds. I’ll water in myco when I plant the seeds. Then, once the plants have sprouted, I will inject myco water into the soil so it can reach the root zone more effectively, which is something I heard an Israeli myco scientist recommend so we’ll try it.
Folks with what they say is a proper tilth say water every day is good. I think you could be onto something! I water every day in flower when I'm in pots or cloth. Maybe after stretch.
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- #1,268
Here is the link to the Purple Ghost Candy comparative journal Im doing:
If you’ve followed my other journals, a lot of the stuff you’ll see in the comparative will be the same. I’ll cover myco, recipes, microbes, etc. all the same stuff I’ve already covered here. You’ll get PGC specific stuff in that journal whereas I will be covering all the plants in this one.
I seeded all of the cups last night after letting the soil sit at 80F for a minimum of 12 hours. Here’s the cups and the seeds
I’ll be running the gelato autos and Runtz Punch outdoors this year. PGC is in the green cups and Blue Thai in the red. Everyone got rolled in myco then tossed in a hole. I mixed the leftover myco with pure water and watered in the seeds lightly. Once the cups feel light, and the plants are up, everyone will get another myco watering. When I transplant I will sprinkle some in the transplant hole and dust the roots.
Speaking of dusting roots, @Gee64 what do you use to “dust” the roots with myco if you decide to dust? I don’t have any tool that “dusts”
Keffkas Seedsman Comparative: Purple Ghost Candy
This is my comparative journal for @SeedsMan As the title and picture show, we’re running Purple Ghost Candy Here’s information about the strain straight from the source: We’ll see. I don’t pull punches, but I also don’t hesitate to acknowledge mistakes. Here’s a little more: I know all...
www.420magazine.com
If you’ve followed my other journals, a lot of the stuff you’ll see in the comparative will be the same. I’ll cover myco, recipes, microbes, etc. all the same stuff I’ve already covered here. You’ll get PGC specific stuff in that journal whereas I will be covering all the plants in this one.
I seeded all of the cups last night after letting the soil sit at 80F for a minimum of 12 hours. Here’s the cups and the seeds
I’ll be running the gelato autos and Runtz Punch outdoors this year. PGC is in the green cups and Blue Thai in the red. Everyone got rolled in myco then tossed in a hole. I mixed the leftover myco with pure water and watered in the seeds lightly. Once the cups feel light, and the plants are up, everyone will get another myco watering. When I transplant I will sprinkle some in the transplant hole and dust the roots.
Speaking of dusting roots, @Gee64 what do you use to “dust” the roots with myco if you decide to dust? I don’t have any tool that “dusts”
I'll share what I do (not Gee obv).
I simply use a 1/8 tspn with what I use (Great White). I unpot the plant, mist the rootball, tilt everything on its side and tap the side of the measuring spoon while holding it over the root ball to lightly spread the powder across the rootball's surface.
The GW container lid comes with holes like many herb bottles do, but I found those a bit too big and pretty wasteful of the product so, with the measuring spoon, I can better control the distribution amount.
If I had larger plants and numbers of them, I'd probably put the GW into an herb jar with smaller and more appropriately sized holes.
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- #1,270
I noticed the size of the holes in the lid as well, and found it weird they would be that large, especially because it’s the smaller bottle. Small bottle with holes like a Parmesan cheese container.
I’ve heard this term “dusting” before and I’ve seen “duster”(s) offered with certain products like this ant poison dust and Diatomaceous Earth, but I can never tell what they actually are or are doing.
I guess I’ve gotta actually watch videos now. I despise videos for the same reason I don’t like podcasts except videos are even worse. I get this overwhelming urge to skip forward to the information I want because my brain is screaming “they’re talking too much they’re going too slow this isn’t important!” However skipping forward inevitably becomes me rewinding because I missed something important lol
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- #1,271
My brain won’t pull the trigger @Gee64 
I’ve even convinced my wife it’s a good investment I can use and my youngest wants to worm farm but I still struggle to spend 100$ on bins
Funny though, yesterday it told me I had to order soon because only 2 were left in stock. Tsk tsk Amazon
I’ve even convinced my wife it’s a good investment I can use and my youngest wants to worm farm but I still struggle to spend 100$ on binsFunny though, yesterday it told me I had to order soon because only 2 were left in stock. Tsk tsk Amazon
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Do it....You know you wannnnnna!My brain won’t pull the trigger @Gee64
Funny though, yesterday it told me I had to order soon because only 2 were left in stock. Tsk tsk Amazon
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- #1,273
While this is an anecdotal observation, I have to say, droughting my Apple Betty made a considerable difference in its potency. The droughted Apple Betty hits the brain and body much harder than the non droughted version. I’m not a big fan of the AB undroughted, it doesn’t hit hard enough and doesn’t go high enough. The droughted version however accomplishes those.
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- #1,274
Do it....You know you wannnnnna!
Farming Qs coming:
How many worms can you handle in your farm? It says 10 pounds which is something like 25,000 worms.
How many castings are produced over 1-3 months?
What are you feeding them? How often do they have to be given their food?
How fast do they reproduce? If I buy 200 worms, how long until they start reproducing, and at what rate?
not sure what Mr Gee uses…
there’s a few different styles of puffers for dusting but this was only pic I could find on short notice.
there’s a few different styles of puffers for dusting but this was only pic I could find on short notice.
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- #1,276
not sure what Mr Gee uses…
there’s a few different styles of puffers for dusting but this was only pic I could find on short notice.
I saw something similar to that as well. For some reason I was envisioning a literal duster like the old school feather duster. Seems like I could problematically get myco all over the place with these powder dusters that shoot it out. I’m very hesitant about inhaling myco
I love the stuff but I don’t want it growing in my body no lie, over the years reckon I’ve inhaled asbestos & zinc plus everything in between
Hey while I’ve got you good people….. found this myco product it’s only $20 bucks for a pound but there’s some exceptions at bottom like not recommended for certain types of plants or trees. Can you peeps take a look and render an opinion? Would this work for our crop? Here’s link - Cheaper mycos?
Hey while I’ve got you good people….. found this myco product it’s only $20 bucks for a pound but there’s some exceptions at bottom like not recommended for certain types of plants or trees. Can you peeps take a look and render an opinion? Would this work for our crop? Here’s link - Cheaper mycos?
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I bought 1 pound of worms to start with. I have no idea how many that turns into. Mine is 4 trays of 5 gallons each.
Every 2 weeks I harvest the bottom tray, refill it, and put it back up top.
That 5 gallons I put in comes out about 4.5 gallons on the bottom, so every 2 weeks I get 4.5 gallons of ewc. I collect it in a tote.
Sometimes kitchen scraps are abundant, and sometimes they aren't, so I collect my scraps in large Ziplocks and store them in the freezer for when I need them. Coffee grounds can add up quick so I limit each tray to one used coffee filter. I also add all my soil ammendments in about the same amounts as I would put into 4.5 gallons. I run all my weed trim, stalks, larf, Indica, reject plants, etc... thru the farm too. It gets quite a few pounds of outdoor weed every year.
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- #1,279
This is a pretty wild product
“created to inoculate areas like flower beds, landscaped areas, and gardens that are being prepped for planting. Designed thoughtfully for endo specific plants, it has 7 species of viable endomycorrhizal propagules and 30 strains of beneficial bacteria. This combination of microorganisms lays a foundation for a healthy microbiome in your soil so your plants and transplants can thrive from the moment they meet the soil. This versatile product also contains a timed release 3-3-3 fertilizer. This gentle fertilizer will slowly disperse and feed your microorganisms and plants over an 8-9 month period. In addition to all the aforementioned goodness, Soil Moist Flower & Garden Plus contains water storing polymers. The addition of these polymers allows for better water management and less transplant shock.
- Effective on most types of plants and trees, except Laurels, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Oaks, Pines, Firs, Spruces, Beech, Birch, Poplar, Aspen, Alder, Larch, Linder and Pecan trees
- Creates a vibrant microbial life in soil that provides long-term benefits for plants
- Encourages strong and rapid root growth and robust plant establishment for healthy plants
- Reduces watering, and the risk of transplant shock and plant loss
- Nutrient and water uptake will be smooth and highly effective
- Each 1 pound container will treat 100 square feet of bedding area, seven 1-inch caliper trees, or forty 1-gallon containers
Endomyco needs live roots to spawn so it has to come in contact with the roots which could cause an issue with the time released stuff. If you’re into testing stuff and can afford to lose a plant or two it could be worth giving it a shot to see what happens
The worm population is self regulating determined by their environment, especially food. Each worm will eat 50-100% of their weight each day so usually a worm farm is setup to match the weekly input of food scraps and other inputs to be provided.
Put too much in relative to the worm population and you get smells, mold, and other undesirables.
A pair of worms will produce a cocoon each every day or two after they reach maturity, and each cocoon has between 2 and 7 baby worms in them so the population goes exponential until it reaches equilibrium but, given the right environment and food sources there's really no limit to how many you could end up with in a very short period of time.