Keffka's Recycling, KOS Blue Thai, Herbies Seeds Apple Betty, Runtz Punch

This is a pretty wild product

“created to inoculate areas like flower beds, landscaped areas, and gardens that are being prepped for planting. Designed thoughtfully for endo specific plants, it has 7 species of viable endomycorrhizal propagules and 30 strains of beneficial bacteria. This combination of microorganisms lays a foundation for a healthy microbiome in your soil so your plants and transplants can thrive from the moment they meet the soil. This versatile product also contains a timed release 3-3-3 fertilizer. This gentle fertilizer will slowly disperse and feed your microorganisms and plants over an 8-9 month period. In addition to all the aforementioned goodness, Soil Moist Flower & Garden Plus contains water storing polymers. The addition of these polymers allows for better water management and less transplant shock.
  • Effective on most types of plants and trees, except Laurels, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Oaks, Pines, Firs, Spruces, Beech, Birch, Poplar, Aspen, Alder, Larch, Linder and Pecan trees
  • Creates a vibrant microbial life in soil that provides long-term benefits for plants
  • Encourages strong and rapid root growth and robust plant establishment for healthy plants
  • Reduces watering, and the risk of transplant shock and plant loss
  • Nutrient and water uptake will be smooth and highly effective
  • Each 1 pound container will treat 100 square feet of bedding area, seven 1-inch caliper trees, or forty 1-gallon containers
So it’s 3-3-3 fertilizer with microbes and endo myco in it. It will work for myco but it’s a bit much for just myco purposes and may give you issues due to the time released nutrients. This would be really useful in a yard or outdoor garden.

Endomyco needs live roots to spawn so it has to come in contact with the roots which could cause an issue with the time released stuff. If you’re into testing stuff and can afford to lose a plant or two it could be worth giving it a shot to see what happens

Thanks for this ^ yeah I might throw a few greenbacks their way. Was really looking for really good bulk mycos product but without the other nutrient fizz.
 
I noticed the size of the holes in the lid as well, and found it weird they would be that large, especially because it’s the smaller bottle. Small bottle with holes like a Parmesan cheese container.

I’ve heard this term “dusting” before and I’ve seen “duster”(s) offered with certain products like this ant poison dust and Diatomaceous Earth, but I can never tell what they actually are or are doing.

I guess I’ve gotta actually watch videos now. I despise videos for the same reason I don’t like podcasts except videos are even worse. I get this overwhelming urge to skip forward to the information I want because my brain is screaming “they’re talking too much they’re going too slow this isn’t important!” However skipping forward inevitably becomes me rewinding because I missed something important lol
Wanted to jump in on this one as well

shallow dive… idea of dusting is that with micronized particles a cloud of dust gives more effective coverage than wetting the substance down for foliar spraying. Think insect bomb standard pest fogger uses a wet aerosol mist versus dusting a cloud of tiny dry particles

Also there’s an inherent problem in that micronized particles are typically hydrophobic AF. Obviously I’m referencing dusting from an fungicide or pest management perspective where you were talking about dusting a rootball with mycos
 
The worm population is self regulating determined by their environment, especially food. Each worm will eat 50-100% of their weight each day so usually a worm farm is setup to match the weekly input of food scraps and other inputs to be provided.

Put too much in relative to the worm population and you get smells, mold, and other undesirables.

A pair of worms will produce a cocoon each every day or two after they reach maturity, and each cocoon has between 2 and 7 baby worms in them so the population goes exponential until it reaches equilibrium but, given the right environment and food sources there's really no limit to how many you could end up with in a very short period of time.

Awesome info, thank you!
 
My brain won’t pull the trigger @Gee64 🤣 I’ve even convinced my wife it’s a good investment I can use and my youngest wants to worm farm but I still struggle to spend 100$ on bins

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Funny though, yesterday it told me I had to order soon because only 2 were left in stock. Tsk tsk Amazon 😂
When I come to that I usually come to think it'll keep things more orderly than a rig I make and therefore more peace in the valley. :rofl:
While this is an anecdotal observation, I have to say, droughting my Apple Betty made a considerable difference in its potency. The droughted Apple Betty hits the brain and body much harder than the non droughted version. I’m not a big fan of the AB undroughted, it doesn’t hit hard enough and doesn’t go high enough. The droughted version however accomplishes those.
I have no doubt that is actually happening! Anecdotal it is though.
 
When I come to that I usually come to think it'll keep things more orderly than a rig I make and therefore more peace in the valley. :rofl:

Lol this is actually a great idea. It’s way less mess and stress, and is way faster just to order it. Yes I could build it but that’s just another thing on the to do list that I don’t really need to do. Good logic!
 
I'm afraid of my Wife too.


😂

So I’ve found that if I justify my purchases above a certain dollar amount, my wife will (often) do the same. It’s a sort of check and balance for me. In my mind, if I can’t persuasively argue why I am making a purchase, I need to think about why I’m making the purchase.

To be fair though, my wife has a presumptive power I don’t. If she decides she’s buying something, that’s it, there will be no discussion 😂
 
Lol this is actually a great idea. It’s way less mess and stress, and is way faster just to order it. Yes I could build it but that’s just another thing on the to do list that I don’t really need to do. Good logic!
That too!
I'm afraid of my Wife too.
Balance is achieved in many ways. :meditate: I'm frightened of mine! Push her up to a point is ok. Pass that and no one should hear the sound from her mouth. At least I think that's where it comes from! :nervous-guy:Bless her for taking care of me!
 
Alright, I’m doing it. The kids have shown an interest in growing plants and my youngest wants to worm farm. It makes no sense buying something half the size for 30 bucks less and I’ve already spent this amount on castings from the store. Once the bin arrives I’ll set it up then order a few hundred red wrigglers to get it started.

I’m taking all diet recommendations for the worms from any and all

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Thinking out loud..

So the more shoots a plant has the lower its calcium efficiency is. It would seem that for robust and complex growth, fewer shoots is the way. Need to figure out a way to split the difference between manifolding and natural growth. Perhaps keeping only 8 branches and staying aggressive on the rest of the plant
 
I’m taking all diet recommendations for the worms from any and all
I started out using just my kitchen scraps and found that, because they're mostly water, the yield wasn't that great. Then I started adding some compost along with the scraps and now get a lot more end product.

I'd suggest you run all of your amendments through it as well. Manures are good too if you have access but if the kids are involved I'd pass on that input at least initially.

I run spent flowers, over ripe fruit, comfrey, Nettle, horsetail fern, a weekly dusting of my minerals mix and my meals mix, along with the scraps and cover all of that with a layer of compost.

I've seen most advice is to bury your weekly scraps around the container in a grid pattern but I just dump mine on top, spread them out evenly, dust it with my amendments and cover with compost. Takes minutes. But everything comes out better after being run through the bin.

No smell unless you're doing something wrong like too much food or too wet.
 
Thinking out loud..

So the more shoots a plant has the lower its calcium efficiency is. It would seem that for robust and complex growth, fewer shoots is the way. Need to figure out a way to split the difference between manifolding and natural growth. Perhaps keeping only 8 branches and staying aggressive on the rest of the plant
I find that clones with 8 branches and a main top, which will turn into 4 more branches and an apex cola after stretch, is a pretty sweet Christmas tree-shaped plant that does really well.

Manifolding to 8 tops still leaves room but going once more to 16 is too much. The colas get flimsy. Usually yo cut off at least 2 or 3 that go runty.

10-14 tops is perfect for 10 gallon pots.

I like a manifold of 8 myself, 10 gallons is always enough, the main colas are huge, and trimming is minimal if you delarf early, and it's really easy to manage.

A manifold of 8 tops will grow nicely in a 7 gallon cube cloth pot that fits in a milk crate too, but at 7 gallons theres no room for error or larf.
 
I started out using just my kitchen scraps and found that, because they're mostly water, the yield wasn't that great. Then I started adding some compost along with the scraps and now get a lot more end product

That’s actually been stuck in my mind ever since you gave me that Coots podcast. The fact that most food scraps are mostly water.

What are some things worms can’t have, or rather things they shouldn’t? In my mind, if it’s a fruit, vegetable, or plant, it can go in. Animal fats are a no go. Would blood and bone meal be acceptable to give them?
 
That’s actually been stuck in my mind ever since you gave me that Coots podcast. The fact that most food scraps are mostly water.

What are some things worms can’t have, or rather things they shouldn’t? In my mind, if it’s a fruit, vegetable, or plant, it can go in. Animal fats are a no go. Would blood and bone meal be acceptable to give them?
IIRC, citrus and allium (garlic, onions, chives) aren't good for them.
 
That’s actually been stuck in my mind ever since you gave me that Coots podcast. The fact that most food scraps are mostly water.

What are some things worms can’t have, or rather things they shouldn’t? In my mind, if it’s a fruit, vegetable, or plant, it can go in. Animal fats are a no go. Would blood and bone meal be acceptable to give them?
Anything acidic; tomatoes, onions, garlic, that sort of thing should be excluded. Also oils, so no food scraps from dinner that had cooking oils on them.

They do go crazy over melons and such. Also a avacado pits for some reason. Google avocado tech or some such. Some dude puts avacoda shell halves Upside down on the surface of his bin stuffed with some amendments and the worms go nuts, forming dense worm balls in the shells.

Not sure why but crazy.

The dry amendments like blood and bone meal work great. Just not too much blood meal at one time or it'll heat up like a compost pile and your worms will migrate onto your floor where they will dehydrate and die.
 
Some dude puts anaconda shell halves Upside down on the surface of his bin stuffed with some amendments and the worms go nuts, forming dense worm balls in the shells.
Some dairy farmers over here do a similar thing with the cow horns after the cut em off they pack them with a cow shit mixed with some other ingredients then they bury them in an area and dig em up later and remove the dirt .
It all seemed very time consuming but I think they were organic dairy farmers .
It was interesting all the same
 
Some dairy farmers over here do a similar thing with the cow horns after the cut em off they pack them with a cow shit mixed with some other ingredients then they bury them in an area and dig em up later and remove the dirt .
It all seemed very time consuming but I think they were organic dairy farmers .
It was interesting all the same
Here's the guy who started it
And why
 
4/5 purple ghost candy are up and 1/5 Blue Thai. 2 of the Blue Thai have stalled it seems so I’m gonna give them a few more days then start rooting around, same for the one PGC. Last grow a few plants took almost a week. Soil must not be warm enough. Next time I’m going 85F instead of 80

(Deleted second shot for privacy)

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