Jon's Outdoor Winter Photoperiod Grow

I couldn’t resist, so I semi-wet trimmed a small part of a cola. Here’s the result. 2 before and two after pictures.

9B19E691-5DF0-4562-A5F6-A2B77E657516.jpeg


48D33C5A-EED6-4D5B-9595-B3440950AEF8.jpeg


AA103F8C-4295-4131-8174-FB42255A16D9.jpeg


8084CE74-D79C-4CD5-AA3A-1FA78762009F.jpeg
Here’s post toaster oven. When you come through the toaster oven looking like this you are ready to receive your toaster oven diploma.

2FF434B1-2870-42F7-88C8-2922BC6433FC.jpeg
 
I’m starting to have faith in the less colas is more theory, beyond the visual appeal. The Mac and Jack only had 10. She’s a lot of ounces. It allows the colas to all get big and since you aren’t choking the canopy out with tops all your lower growth has a chance to get great light and also develop appreciable weight. You saw how much space there was on her between her mains. The extra space also allows you to keep maximum amount of leaves if you want to.
Let me first say that I really appreciate your desire to grow using different techniques every time. It keeps things interesting. I am from the same mold but don't have the space and don't know what I would do with the bounty.

As far as the "less is more" approach, I would like to offer some alternative concepts and some numbers for consideration and comparison.
As far as better air flow for less mold potential, I have some thoughts on that as well.


More nodes equals more buds, I agree 100%. My nodes are 1 - 1 1/2" apart.

BD22 D63 AF14-2 (2).JPG



Better air flow decreases the chance of mold, I agree 100%.
90% (or more) of the water being consumed by the plant is released into the air by the leaves, transpiration. My grows average 82* F and 43% RH so they go through a lot of water/solution, a couple of gallons per day. By removing the leaves in the "bud" area, I am removing a very large source of water vapor from the area around the buds. This also improves the air flow through the bud area and reduces the potential for mold and/or mildew. I measure the RH at "skirt level" and at canopy level. Skirt is 54% and the canopy is 42%. I use a couple of directional fans for circulation and have not seen any signs of mold/mildew.

As far as "choking the canopy with tops" preventing lower growth development, these lower buds are fully developed to within 5" or 6" from ground level.
J22D57F36-1.JPG


Less is more. Here are some numbers from my past two grows.

Panama photoperiod, 100% Sativa grown prior to adding additional side lighting.
F57D101-2.JPG



Jack Herer auto, 70% Sativa with additional side lighting.

J22D40F19-2.JPG



Here is a Panama cola when it was newly removed from the drying box. The average length of all colas was 8" with a 1 1/2 - 2" diameter. The goal is to harvest 100 of these.

PP2 D1 C-2 trimmed ruler.JPG



All yields are weights taken following manicuring, an 8 - 10 day dry, a 14 - 16 day stabilization (daily in/out jars with Boveda), and nug removal from stems. Ready for long term storage/cure.

Strain Size Yield

Panama................24" x 36" x 24"h...................411 grams (14.5 oz)
CST...................... .537 sq. meters....................740 grams / sq. meter
Training................6 sq. feet..............................68.5 grams / sq. foot
..............................12 cubic feet........................34.25 grams / cubic foot (important number for those of us growing in confined spaces)
Jack Herer..............24" x 24" x 18"h..................287 grams (10.12 oz)
............................ .371 sq. meters ..................773 grams / sq. meter
Skirted CST............4 sq. feet.............................71.75 grams / sq. foot
Training................6 cubic feet.........................47.8 grams / cubic foot

It appears from the numbers (grams/ cubic foot) that your thoughts on opening up the canopy to increase the yield from lower sites are accurate. That was one of the main reasons for me going to a "skirted" training technique.

I would love to see comparative numbers from other grows and techniques. There is always room for improvement, and experimentation.


P.S. For those that don't train an auto, this would be a good harvest.


J22 Harvest - 6 (2).JPG


For those that want to spend the time, the rest of the picture ......

J22 Harvest - 6.JPG




:Namaste:
 
Let me first say that I really appreciate your desire to grow using different techniques every time. It keeps things interesting. I am from the same mold but don't have the space and don't know what I would do with the bounty.

As far as the "less is more" approach, I would like to offer some alternative concepts and some numbers for consideration and comparison.
As far as better air flow for less mold potential, I have some thoughts on that as well.


More nodes equals more buds, I agree 100%. My nodes are 1 - 1 1/2" apart.

BD22 D63 AF14-2 (2).JPG



Better air flow decreases the chance of mold, I agree 100%.
90% (or more) of the water being consumed by the plant is released into the air by the leaves, transpiration. My grows average 82* F and 43% RH so they go through a lot of water/solution, a couple of gallons per day. By removing the leaves in the "bud" area, I am removing a very large source of water vapor from the area around the buds. This also improves the air flow through the bud area and reduces the potential for mold and/or mildew. I measure the RH at "skirt level" and at canopy level. Skirt is 54% and the canopy is 42%. I use a couple of directional fans for circulation and have not seen any signs of mold/mildew.

As far as "choking the canopy with tops" preventing lower growth development, these lower buds are fully developed to within 5" or 6" from ground level.
J22D57F36-1.JPG


Less is more. Here are some numbers from my past two grows.

Panama photoperiod, 100% Sativa grown prior to adding additional side lighting.
F57D101-2.JPG



Jack Herer auto, 70% Sativa with additional side lighting.

J22D40F19-2.JPG



Here is a Panama cola when it was newly removed from the drying box. The average length of all colas was 8" with a 1 1/2 - 2" diameter. The goal is to harvest 100 of these.

PP2 D1 C-2 trimmed ruler.JPG



All yields are weights taken following manicuring, an 8 - 10 day dry, a 14 - 16 day stabilization (daily in/out jars with Boveda), and nug removal from stems. Ready for long term storage/cure.

Strain Size Yield

Panama 24" x 36" x 24"h 411 grams (14.5 oz)
CST .537 sq. meters 740 grams / sq. meter
Training 6 sq. feet 68.5 grams / sq. foot
12 cubic feet 34.25 grams / cubic foot (important number for those of us growing in confined spaces)
Jack Herer 24" x 24" x 18"h 287 grams (10.12 oz)
.371 sq. meters 773 grams / sq. meter
Skirted CST 4 sq. feet 71.75 grams / sq. foot
Training 6 cubic feet 47.8 grams / cubic foot

It appears from the numbers (grams/ cubic foot) that your thoughts on opening up the canopy to increase the yield from lower sites are accurate. That was one of the main reasons for me going to a "skirted" training technique.

I would love to see comparative numbers from other grows and techniques. There is always room for improvement, and experimentation.


P.S. For those that don't train an auto, this would be a good harvest.


J22 Harvest - 6 (2).JPG


For those that want to spend the time, the rest of the picture ......

J22 Harvest - 6.JPG




:Namaste:
A lot of the numbers got jumbled once I posted. The system removed spaces and "TAB" doesn't.
 
A lot of the numbers got jumbled once I posted. The system removed spaces and "TAB" doesn't.
Ha! Well, that was a good read for sure. Thank you, that’s exactly the point. Trying different things I mean.

Well, I can offer the following comparisons for what they’re worth.

- last Watermelon WeddingCake auto gown in coco/res. Trained by simply topping the main stem once and pulling all lower branches out in a ring. Then let it get as big as it wanted. It filled the 5x5 practically. As big or bigger than my current outdoor Mandarin Zkittlez tree. Yield by the exact same standards you apply: 13.6 ounces.
- The White Widow I just harvested, also an auto. Grown in a straight 7 of coco in a 3x3. Trained to a flat canopy with maybe 40 colas. Yield was 11+ ounces.

Both of those = zero side lighting and way way fewer colas, and both had superior air flow, although I did have to stay on top of the defoliation on the Widow as she was a leafy girl and kept on leafing for a long time.

The other thing I am able to do when I do fewer tops is remove the little crap I don’t want more easily and effectively, thus maxing the size of the bottom buds regardless of which style I use.

I use similar temp and rh numbers as you. My ppfd likely runs higher, not sure. The White Widow finished with the tops at 1350 ppfd. Watermelon WeddingCake had similar numbers.

It’s an interesting comparison @Hafta, and I appreciate your kind words and the adventurous spirit we apparently share.

:thanks::thumb:
 
Platinum Mimosa Cookies
Final Training
Day 24


I have alternating nodes and the very first signs of pre pistils. She’s going to flower pretty soon - a few days I believe. Here’s her final training. From here I do nothing more, save a bit of defol if necessary.

D3BEDC5C-1F59-4E46-8E7C-5AC949697490.jpeg
 
Let me first say that I really appreciate your desire to grow using different techniques every time. It keeps things interesting. I am from the same mold but don't have the space and don't know what I would do with the bounty.

As far as the "less is more" approach, I would like to offer some alternative concepts and some numbers for consideration and comparison.
As far as better air flow for less mold potential, I have some thoughts on that as well.


More nodes equals more buds, I agree 100%. My nodes are 1 - 1 1/2" apart.

BD22 D63 AF14-2 (2).JPG



Better air flow decreases the chance of mold, I agree 100%.
90% (or more) of the water being consumed by the plant is released into the air by the leaves, transpiration. My grows average 82* F and 43% RH so they go through a lot of water/solution, a couple of gallons per day. By removing the leaves in the "bud" area, I am removing a very large source of water vapor from the area around the buds. This also improves the air flow through the bud area and reduces the potential for mold and/or mildew. I measure the RH at "skirt level" and at canopy level. Skirt is 54% and the canopy is 42%. I use a couple of directional fans for circulation and have not seen any signs of mold/mildew.

As far as "choking the canopy with tops" preventing lower growth development, these lower buds are fully developed to within 5" or 6" from ground level.
J22D57F36-1.JPG


Less is more. Here are some numbers from my past two grows.

Panama photoperiod, 100% Sativa grown prior to adding additional side lighting.
F57D101-2.JPG



Jack Herer auto, 70% Sativa with additional side lighting.

J22D40F19-2.JPG



Here is a Panama cola when it was newly removed from the drying box. The average length of all colas was 8" with a 1 1/2 - 2" diameter. The goal is to harvest 100 of these.

PP2 D1 C-2 trimmed ruler.JPG



All yields are weights taken following manicuring, an 8 - 10 day dry, a 14 - 16 day stabilization (daily in/out jars with Boveda), and nug removal from stems. Ready for long term storage/cure.

Strain Size Yield

Panama................24" x 36" x 24"h...................411 grams (14.5 oz)
CST...................... .537 sq. meters....................740 grams / sq. meter
Training................6 sq. feet..............................68.5 grams / sq. foot
..............................12 cubic feet........................34.25 grams / cubic foot (important number for those of us growing in confined spaces)
Jack Herer..............24" x 24" x 18"h..................287 grams (10.12 oz)
............................ .371 sq. meters ..................773 grams / sq. meter
Skirted CST............4 sq. feet.............................71.75 grams / sq. foot
Training................6 cubic feet.........................47.8 grams / cubic foot

It appears from the numbers (grams/ cubic foot) that your thoughts on opening up the canopy to increase the yield from lower sites are accurate. That was one of the main reasons for me going to a "skirted" training technique.

I would love to see comparative numbers from other grows and techniques. There is always room for improvement, and experimentation.


P.S. For those that don't train an auto, this would be a good harvest.


J22 Harvest - 6 (2).JPG


For those that want to spend the time, the rest of the picture ......

J22 Harvest - 6.JPG




:Namaste:
Btw - both the Panama and the Jack Herer are awesome.
 
The @ViparSpectra light is in the house!

Thank you ViparSpectra!!

I’m in process of cleaning and prepping the tent for the light switch. In a few days when it’s ready to go I will begin the dedicated journal to highlight this light. It will begin with the unboxing of the light and the assembly. Can’t wait!!

03D35FEB-E46D-41C1-854E-63A330488F72.jpeg
Looking forward to your updates! You will love it!
 
Would it still be possible to snap a photo of the main tap root in the center of the root ball? I'm curious how far down the large diameter goes.
@Hafta Cannabis Plants don't have a large main tap root per say, they do grow those large roots near the surface to help capture any condensation
here is an example
 
@Hafta Cannabis Plants don't have a large main tap root per say, they do grow those large roots near the surface to help capture any condensation
here is an example
I understand that the root system is not a typical tap root system. I should have described it as a "central system".
My curiosity stems from a plant I grew a few decades ago that had a central "system", similar to your photo, that extended about twelve inches into the soil and had a diameter of about three inches. The rest of the roots spread from there. I am curious how deep into the container the central system went.
 
last Watermelon WeddingCake auto gown in coco/res. Trained by simply topping the main stem once and pulling all lower branches out in a ring. Then let it get as big as it wanted. It filled the 5x5 practically. As big or bigger than my current outdoor Mandarin Zkittlez tree. Yield by the exact same standards you apply: 13.6 ounces.
Wow,
You got an auto to fill 25 sq. feet. Do you remember the distance between the nodes?
 
Ok guys, this is a longish post but it will show you step by step what I did to prep our intrepid auto for the rest of her life.
Great pictorial Jon, thanks for showing off how you do it!
filled the 5-gallon bucket to the top almost with week 4 of veg of the @Prescription Blend feedchart
I'm confused. You said "The two inches of pot that are in the water are all perlite and hopefully by now some roots" so are you hoping the roots grow into the res before the plant runs dry? And do you top water after that as well?
 
Wow,
You got an auto to fill 25 sq. feet. Do you remember the distance between the nodes?
Internodal spacing is awesome on the Watermelon WeddingCake. She didn’t fill it all the way but close.
 
Great pictorial Jon, thanks for showing off how you do it!

I'm confused. You said "The two inches of pot that are in the water are all perlite and hopefully by now some roots" so are you hoping the roots grow into the res before the plant runs dry? And do you top water after that as well?
Yes, I’m hoping the roots hit the res by flower. Yes I top off the res. I change it once a week.
 
I understand that the root system is not a typical tap root system. I should have described it as a "central system".
My curiosity stems from a plant I grew a few decades ago that had a central "system", similar to your photo, that extended about twelve inches into the soil and had a diameter of about three inches. The rest of the roots spread from there. I am curious how deep into the container the central system went.
I’ll see what I can do
 
My curiosity stems from a plant I grew a few decades ago that had a central "system", similar to your photo, that extended about twelve inches into the soil and had a diameter of about three inches. The rest of the roots spread from there.
Did you bury it at up-pot along the way?
 
Did you bury it at up-pot along the way?
No, it was strictly old school. I germinated it directly in an 18" tall raised bed. This "Polaroid" is of a single plant. It was about ten foot diameter and 5 - 6 foot above ground.
SL1995grow600dpi250xfinal.jpg


:Namaste:
 
Back
Top Bottom