Jon's Final Florida Journal For Real

[Jon]

it is . All brix is, is a measurement of how much sugar is stored in a leaf, or the entire plant for that matter. Sugar is a product of photosynthesis.

So the more photosynthesis taking place, the more sugar.

Anything can interupt photosynthesis. A light failure, improper watering, bad ph, nutrient deficiencies, etc. What promotes it, other than light, which drives it, is the amount of carbon, oxygen, calcium, phosphorus, and microbes to process it all.

So if you have high brix and an issue, like my light crashing, then photosynthesis gets compramised and sugar stops being produced in excess, and the plant starts to draw sugar from the leaves and brix drops.

When you fix the problem and start producing sugars again you need to 1st support yourself, and then start paying the sugar bank back to see brix rise again.

Its something you really want to stay ahead on. Over 12 is A-OK, but you have no buffer for an Oopsie. I strive to become over 12 as early in the plants life as possible.

Carbon often gets overlooked in the early stages. The carbon a plant feeds the microbes is from CO2 in the air. We all know plants breath CO2, but what most fail to realize when starting out in organics, is that microbes eat carbon.

Its their favorite food.

They can't eat CO2 in the air, they need it from the soil, so you need raw carbon in your soil for the microbes until the plant gets over 12 and can start feeding carbon (sugar) to the microbes. Like priming the pump, so to speak. Healthier microbes means more food, phosphorus in particular.

Coco is excellent carbon. Its density is perfect. Perfect carbon raises brix quicker in a plants life.

Awesome. Thanks! So is that why you add coco to your soil mix? I never did that but it makes total sense. And is there any way to add carbon once you’re into the grow? Obviously top dressing coco wouldn’t work, lol.

 

[Jon]

it is . All brix is, is a measurement of how much sugar is stored in a leaf, or the entire plant for that matter. Sugar is a product of photosynthesis.

So the more photosynthesis taking place, the more sugar.

Anything can interupt photosynthesis. A light failure, improper watering, bad ph, nutrient deficiencies, etc. What promotes it, other than light, which drives it, is the amount of carbon, oxygen, calcium, phosphorus, and microbes to process it all.

So if you have high brix and an issue, like my light crashing, then photosynthesis gets compramised and sugar stops being produced in excess, and the plant starts to draw sugar from the leaves and brix drops.

When you fix the problem and start producing sugars again you need to 1st support yourself, and then start paying the sugar bank back to see brix rise again.

Its something you really want to stay ahead on. Over 12 is A-OK, but you have no buffer for an Oopsie. I strive to become over 12 as early in the plants life as possible.

Carbon often gets overlooked in the early stages. The carbon a plant feeds the microbes is from CO2 in the air. We all know plants breath CO2, but what most fail to realize when starting out in organics, is that microbes eat carbon.

Its their favorite food.

They can't eat CO2 in the air, they need it from the soil, so you need raw carbon in your soil for the microbes until the plant gets over 12 and can start feeding carbon (sugar) to the microbes. Like priming the pump, so to speak. Healthier microbes means more food, phosphorus in particular.

Coco is excellent carbon. It's density is perfect. Perfect carbon raises brix quicker in a plants life.

Also, what about actually adding some sugars? I have Fox Farms Bembe. It’s one of my favorite sweeteners, I use it often in combination with Terpinator. No Terpinator on the Geo girls, but here’s the label from the Bembe - would this help at all? Of course I have molasses too?

 

[Jon]

That bouquet will be gorgeous at 56" tall!

Yep. She’s a looker. It will be interesting to see what happens in the stretch. Will she maintain her sweet, dome-like top? We will know soon enough. Thanks.

 

[NickHardy]

That tiny tiny tipping I have on one plants of the 21 in flower. Its a Red Hot Cookies and I understand Cookies heritage likes light in terms of nutes and well light!

Makes me think I need to up the EC a touch for the rest of them , like some guy said if you’re not getting a little nute burn you’re not really trying

 

[Jon]

That tiny tiny tipping I have on one plants of the 21 in flower. Its a Red Hot Cookies and I understand Cookies heritage likes light in terms of nutes and well light!

Makes me think I need to up the EC a touch for the rest of them , like some guy said if you’re not getting a little nute burn you’re not really trying

Ha! When using chem nutes I completely agree! However I’m not nearly educated enough in organics to push. I just want healthy plants to the end.

 

[Gee64]

Thanks. Makes sense. So once you get them praying as you like, you are able to keep the pot moist all the time and they still pray?

So this morning I gave them all a hit of my Humboldt’s Secret CalMag plus Iron. Great calmag. Gentle. It’s 2-0-0. I use it for the daily calmag requirement when growing in coco, exactly cuz it’s light. I also have the Blue Planet powdered CalMag Pro Formula, which is 8-0-0 with 15% C and 5.5% Mg. I use it for emergency use. Lol. I gave them all a hit of the light stuff.

The color on the clone is great imo, what do you think? (She’s still coming up this morning in the picture)

Also, here are some leaf tip pics of the Skywalker concern. Any thoughts on these? She’s the only plant showing this, and all have identical pot mixes.

Thanks @Gee64.

Oh, also I included a picture of the light bars to show you how much reds get added with the flower booster jump to 680 watts, and a picture of the garden wake up environment. I’m great with those numbers for lights out.

I totally agree on the added reds.

The leaf tip damage, thats organic nutrient burn. If you are feeding heavy to grow them hard its unavoidable.

When you add geoflora, or a tea, or fix the soil with calmag, you get a nutrient rush.

Don't worry about it, it cycles with the feedings. Usually the 1st watering after a feeding is when it shows.

I try to avoid it by putting all the food in the pot before I plant, but sooner or later the roots hit a spike and there it is.

It means that too many nutrients got pushed by the photosynthesizers too fast and couldn't all get used, so it got jammed into the leaf tips and formed micro solids. Those microsolids dry out and then suck moisture from the leaf tips. Leaf tips are the end of the arterial line, so it builds up there. She does look a little water fat. Let your temps get up closer to 80, and 76 or above for sure, and she will move water quicker. Warm air has the ability to hold more water, so you increase atmospheric suction on the plant by warming the air. It drives the plant faster and pulls that plumpness out of the leaves.

When I say I like damp soil, I'm not talking wet, just not dry. Each pot has 4 drippers. Each dripper is .25 gals per hour, so each plant can have 1 gallon per hour. Right now I run them for 6 minutes in the morning right before lights on, and 6 minutes again, 2 hours before lights out.

As I lower RH getting deeper into flower those times increase. I just try to avoid very wet to very dry cycles.

Gotta compete with them Sippers ya know!

 

[Gee64]

Also, what about actually adding some sugars? I have Fox Farms Bembe. It’s one of my favorite sweeteners, I use it often in combination with Terpinator. No Terpinator on the Geo girls, but here’s the label from the Bembe - would this help at all? Of course I have molasses too?

This is literally brix in a bottle, but its for low brixers. If you are over 12 you have established a good myco to microbe relationship. The microbes are working for myco.

If you dump this in, they don't need to go to work because you paid them to stay home. Its government subsidy.

But if you have a bad pot that won't grow right, or you run out of foid before harvest, that will get them to harvest.

If you use it regularly, you need to keep using it all the way to the end.

Once to prime the pump by giving the microbes a boost early on works really well. Like a tea. Even in a tea. with EWC too.

 

[Gee64]

That tiny tiny tipping I have on one plants of the 21 in flower. Its a Red Hot Cookies and I understand Cookies heritage likes light in terms of nutes and well light!

Makes me think I need to up the EC a touch for the rest of them , like some guy said if you’re not getting a little nute burn you’re not really trying

Nick is like James Bond, if your not living on the edge your taking up too much space! Plus his weed likely gets all the supermodels in jumpsuits

 

[Jon]

This is literally brix in a bottle, but its for low brixers. If you are over 12 you have established a good myco to microbe relationship. The microbes are working for myco.

If you dump this in, they don't need to go to work because you paid them to stay home. Its government subsidy.

But if you have a bad pot that won't grow right, or you run out of foid before harvest, that will get them to harvest.

If you use it regularly, you need to keep using it all the way to the end.

Once to prime the pump by giving the microbes a boost early on works really well. Like a tea. Even in a tea. with EWC too.

Gotcha, thanks. So basically this is just another form of crack.

 

[NickHardy]

Plus his weed likely gets all the supermodels in jumpsuits

I personally remove the jumpsuits for everyone of them…

 

[Jon]

@ViparSpectra Tent Scrog
Double Grape
Cherry Pie

Here’s a side shot. These girls are just going nuts every day. A gallon each day now, no more alternating days, and by morning they’re thirsty. We just began Remo flower week 3 with the DG and are still on flower week 1 with the CP. Oh, the joy of two different mixes just for two autos who decided they didn’t want to be on the same schedule. Anyway, both plants filled out sweetly. The whole screen is almost filled, and if the plants were a bit more centered front to back we got damn close. Surprising. The DG is frosting up like a champ. She’s worked her way up to 1200 ppfd now, the CP is more like 1100-1150 with the hottest spot in the canopy located on the left last front to back row the CP occupies. The crossover max point there always is with two lights is right there.

 

[Jon]

Hey @Gee64 - that higher gear autos hit I was talking about? Here’s what I mean. Yesterday this was a nice round dome. 24 hours later and these three center colas have grown an inch and now mess up my canopy. Well, her canopy. I didn’t do a thing. Lol. Next gear stuff. I’ll take an inch a day in veg any day of the week.

 

[Jon]

Strawberry Gorilla

If you guys remember, when I first saw her beginning to stack I was sure there was no way all the buds would grow together and make one cola. Spacing was too far apart.

Well….now I’m not so sure.

 

[Jon]

A little Platinum Mimosa Cookies action. Heh.

 

[Jon]

A little Platinum Mimosa Cookies action. Heh.

Two phenotypes that couldn’t be more different. Here’s the sativa pheno.

 

[NickHardy]

I just made a vape bowl of seriotica and then saw the jar of Acapulco Gold kief I’d forgotten I bought last month and thought why not

Glup

 

[Jon]

I just made a vape bowl of seriotica and then saw the jar of Acapulco Gold kief I’d forgotten I bought last month and thought why not

Glup

Mmm, Acapulco Gold kief. Yum. (Key Homer Simpson drooling clip)

 

[Jon]

Strawberry Gorilla
Final Defoliation

At this point she’s way finished making any more leaves and everything stem wise that was getting chopped has been chopped. Last minor piece of work was the final defoliation, now that the aforementioned is done and I can see where everything is. Final defol in the books. For reference this is in between week three and four of flower. Everything is way exposed yet we still have plenty of leaves on her. This is one of the advantages of skirting your big fans and keeping everything you can for as long as possible - so that when you DO want to take some leaves, you have plenty in the bank to lose without compromising the plant. Her leaves are oily, frosty, heavy-ish, and starting to smell like cotton candy. Cost me my pre game evening practice session, lol. It was worth it. Heh.

Here’s her naked self.

 

[ReservoirDog]

@Gee64 , John's meter has a computer. There's no line to get fuzzy. However, I am going to require an explanation on the matter of a fuzzy line and a requirement for more calcium.

I mean, the answer, no, the question.....

is clearly evergreen. Yes?

 

[Gee64]

Well if you are using an analog refractometer, its pretty simple. If the line that indicates your brix level is crisp and sharp, then calcium is less that adequate. If its fuzzy its adequate. The fuzzier the better. Even if your reading is high, if its crisp you still need calcium.