Jon's Dedicated Fruity Pebble Cookies Grow Plus The Mystery Plant
- Thread starter Jon
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- #362
Fruity Pebble Cookies
Interesting Comparison
I don't know if this is odd or normal, I've never really noticed it or tracked it before. But as I was checking out the two plants and wondering what I wanted to do with them, I noticed this:
This is a leaf shot of Elora, the smaller girl. You can see that top to bottom, even on the emerging leaves, all she has everywhere are 7-point leaves.
These next three are from Fulvia. Here's a 5 point leaf
And a 7 point leaf
And a 9 point leaf
So different phenos, different leaves, I get that, and clearly I have two different phenos here. But differing types of leaves on the same plant? I've seen where they begin one way and then another takes over, but it seems usually the take over number of points is consistent the rest of the way. On this plant they seem to be pretty random, although only the gigantic fans are the 9-pointers. The 5- and 7- pointers are all over the place.
Is this odd? Or just something I am noticing for the first time?
Interesting Comparison
I don't know if this is odd or normal, I've never really noticed it or tracked it before. But as I was checking out the two plants and wondering what I wanted to do with them, I noticed this:
This is a leaf shot of Elora, the smaller girl. You can see that top to bottom, even on the emerging leaves, all she has everywhere are 7-point leaves.
These next three are from Fulvia. Here's a 5 point leaf
And a 7 point leaf
And a 9 point leaf
So different phenos, different leaves, I get that, and clearly I have two different phenos here. But differing types of leaves on the same plant? I've seen where they begin one way and then another takes over, but it seems usually the take over number of points is consistent the rest of the way. On this plant they seem to be pretty random, although only the gigantic fans are the 9-pointers. The 5- and 7- pointers are all over the place.
Is this odd? Or just something I am noticing for the first time?
Good question. I'll confess I've never really noticed the leaves that closely. I'm just looking for a nice shade of green. 
BubbaKush909
Well-Known Member
Hey Jon! My first LM seed didn't crack after 4 days, I looked at it and nothing was happening which is extremely unusual for me. I set the seed aside, started another one, and couldn't find the first one lol. The 2nd cracked on the 3rd day and is slowly rooting in the dixie cup. How full of roots would you suggest I let it get? I can see a root along the side to the bottom, I usually transplant close to now. It's just barely starting it's second set of true leaves. It's an auto of course.
And did you top an auto? I'm trying to keep track but with all your plants.... lol
Did you see that purple lsd-25 I posted? First purple strain I've ever grown and I'm psyched.
Have a great day!
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- #365
Hey @BubbaKush909 -
I try to up pot autos ASAP. Pretty much as soon as I think the root ball will hold together, cuz I want that done with and into their final home. 5 gallon or 3 (I rarely use them anymore) and I plant directly into the final container. In a 7 I do Dixie cups. I usually end up transplanting around day 15-18. Too early and you defeat the whole purpose of starting it in a Dixie. Too late and that's okay but you start training in a Dixie cup, which I don't like. So the goal for me is roots up and down the sides and of course on the bottom, but they don't have to be showing that bottom mass of roots that results from waiting longer.
Yes, I top the living crap out of autos. Treat them exactly as you would photos. I just stop at the first sign of pistils. So I start as early as I can and go for as long as the plant lets me. In that window I top or train the crap out of them unless the goal is to just let it go. I've gotten great results (my two best yielders ever) from simply topping above node 4 and spreading out branches, but that is kind of strain dependent. The Gorilla Zkittlez worked real well in that regard, as did the Dos Si Dos.
Yes, yay purple!!!! I guess we all think it's the king of colors cuz it's so prevalent, but we sure seem to. Lol.
Rock on! Hope that helps.
- Thread starter
- #366
Elora New Digs
Veg Day 34
Right on the heels of Fulvia it's Elora's turn in the barrel. Tonight I up potted her into her GeoPot 7 final home. I gave Elora the black version. Same setup and coco blend as Fulvia's, only Elora got the new kind of frass. I also gave her a one pebble thick layer of perlite on the level I dropped the pot onto. (@Bill284 will like that and imagine I actually read his guide....
......love you Bill! 
) Also, I watered Elora before the transplant, so she was 100% soaked when she went in. Then all I had to do was water around the new edge and to runoff with week 4 of the PB nutes that she's on till flower, and voila, we're done! We're also done with an entire 1.8 cubic foot bag of coco. If you wondered how many plants you can do with one of those big bags, one answer is two 7-gallon pots, perfectly. Does make each plant kind of pricey though, not to mention feeding with every watering. They better do what the hell they're supposed to. Lmao.
So here she is before the up potting, then back home in the tent in her new digs. That's going to do it for up potting for any of the plants in Gorillatown, the autos are already in their final homes and the photos are as well now. I may up pot the smaller pot auto into a 5 if she shows me she's worth it, but we'll cross that bridge later on.
Veg Day 34
Right on the heels of Fulvia it's Elora's turn in the barrel. Tonight I up potted her into her GeoPot 7 final home. I gave Elora the black version. Same setup and coco blend as Fulvia's, only Elora got the new kind of frass. I also gave her a one pebble thick layer of perlite on the level I dropped the pot onto. (@Bill284 will like that and imagine I actually read his guide....
......love you Bill! ) Also, I watered Elora before the transplant, so she was 100% soaked when she went in. Then all I had to do was water around the new edge and to runoff with week 4 of the PB nutes that she's on till flower, and voila, we're done! We're also done with an entire 1.8 cubic foot bag of coco. If you wondered how many plants you can do with one of those big bags, one answer is two 7-gallon pots, perfectly. Does make each plant kind of pricey though, not to mention feeding with every watering. They better do what the hell they're supposed to. Lmao.So here she is before the up potting, then back home in the tent in her new digs. That's going to do it for up potting for any of the plants in Gorillatown, the autos are already in their final homes and the photos are as well now. I may up pot the smaller pot auto into a 5 if she shows me she's worth it, but we'll cross that bridge later on.
- Thread starter
- #367
Hi @West Hippie, I wonder if I could pick your brain a bit?
So you see the up potting on Elora, right? All I've done so far is the one main stem topping. But looking at her, I was kind of thinking that if I were to simply top each established cola as they are right now, then let her grow tall and eliminate the flarf producing branches, but take NO leaves and just try to create the canopy more with supercropping than with tying down branches, that might be a good course for Elora? This is my dumbed down assessment of what you do. I'm way oversimplifying it I know, and maybe didn't even get it right, but that seems to be it in a nutshell. Anyway, that would give me around 24-30 tops instead of 50 everywhere. Maybe more of a sweet spot for a bigger plant?
Would you mind tossing in your two cents on the above?
Thank you!!!!
So you see the up potting on Elora, right? All I've done so far is the one main stem topping. But looking at her, I was kind of thinking that if I were to simply top each established cola as they are right now, then let her grow tall and eliminate the flarf producing branches, but take NO leaves and just try to create the canopy more with supercropping than with tying down branches, that might be a good course for Elora? This is my dumbed down assessment of what you do. I'm way oversimplifying it I know, and maybe didn't even get it right, but that seems to be it in a nutshell. Anyway, that would give me around 24-30 tops instead of 50 everywhere. Maybe more of a sweet spot for a bigger plant?
Would you mind tossing in your two cents on the above?
Thank you!!!!
- Thread starter
- #368
Hi @InTheShed, if you see this and could offer an opinion I would greatly appreciate it!! It relates back to our discussion about the solstice and the Mystery plant.
So now we're past the equinox, it was March 20. The days get longer each day. Right now to a plant the light cycle would be right around 12/12, with more light each day. So what if I were to begin a photo, outdoors, now. By the time the seed popped and was up it would be something like April 10, say.
So couldn't I begin a photo outdoors now, grow it on the outdoor light cycle until the Watermelon WeddingCake is finished in the 3x3, then bring it inside to flower under the 420h, on something like a 9/15 light cycle? Or would it take less than that, say 10/14 to get her to flower? She'd MAYBE get to 13/11 outdoors before coming inside - however long it takes from now to harvest for the auto and the corresponding light increase in that time. 14/10 at the most I would think.
I can't think of any reason this would not work.
Thanks so much!!!!
So now we're past the equinox, it was March 20. The days get longer each day. Right now to a plant the light cycle would be right around 12/12, with more light each day. So what if I were to begin a photo, outdoors, now. By the time the seed popped and was up it would be something like April 10, say.
So couldn't I begin a photo outdoors now, grow it on the outdoor light cycle until the Watermelon WeddingCake is finished in the 3x3, then bring it inside to flower under the 420h, on something like a 9/15 light cycle? Or would it take less than that, say 10/14 to get her to flower? She'd MAYBE get to 13/11 outdoors before coming inside - however long it takes from now to harvest for the auto and the corresponding light increase in that time. 14/10 at the most I would think.
I can't think of any reason this would not work.
Thanks so much!!!!
But she’s gorgeous just as you have her right now . Penthesilea was the only one with jewelry. I don’t know if it was the MSA but I was putting a pound of weights on one branch and still stood up on me . My net should have been in there sooner . We use supercroping to level the canopy as you saw when the jewelry didn’t pan out in flower . The jewelry work fine in veg . I noticed when looking for mites the supercrop we did on mine has holding cells on each ! I wished you’d asked before I got wasted !Hi @West Hippie, I wonder if I could pick your brain a bit?
So you see the up potting on Elora, right? All I've done so far is the one main stem topping. But looking at her, I was kind of thinking that if I were to simply top each established cola as they are right now, then let her grow tall and eliminate the flarf producing branches, but take NO leaves and just try to create the canopy more with supercropping than with tying down branches, that might be a good course for Elora? This is my dumbed down assessment of what you do. I'm way oversimplifying it I know, and maybe didn't even get it right, but that seems to be it in a nutshell. Anyway, that would give me around 24-30 tops instead of 50 everywhere. Maybe more of a sweet spot for a bigger plant?
Would you mind tossing in your two cents on the above?
Thank you!!!!
- Thread starter
- #370
LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'll revisit tomorrow or something. Thanks! Enjoy your buzz!!!!!!!!!!!
You could most likely grow a photo outside from seed now without it flowering when it hit sexual maturity, but why flower it inside under anything other than 12/12?
Assuming the WWCake is finished by June 21st of course!
You rock buddy.Elora New Digs
Veg Day 34
Right on the heels of Fulvia it's Elora's turn in the barrel. Tonight I up potted her into her GeoPot 7 final home. I gave Elora the black version. Same setup and coco blend as Fulvia's, only Elora got the new kind of frass. I also gave her a one pebble thick layer of perlite on the level I dropped the pot onto. (@Bill284 will like that and imagine I actually read his guide....
So here she is before the up potting, then back home in the tent in her new digs. That's going to do it for up potting for any of the plants in Gorillatown, the autos are already in their final homes and the photos are as well now. I may up pot the smaller pot auto into a 5 if she shows me she's worth it, but we'll cross that bridge later on.
Stay safe
Bill
- Thread starter
- #373
Thanks @InTheShed. The reason I was thinking other than 12/12 was because I had it in my head that if they're basically growing up on 12/12 to say 14/10, maybe 12/12 wouldn't be enough of a change to signal them to bud. Is the 12 hours the "thing?" I thought it was the days shortening, ie, light cycle being shorter on light than it was when they were outside in veg. So my thought was, if they grew on 12/12, they need less than 12/12 to prompt to flower.
No?
- Thread starter
- #374
Fruity Pebble Cookies
Training/LST/Topping Decisions MADE
Veg Day 35
Well, only 35 days in and the size of the plants is such that I felt it was time to make and enact some decisions. Namely, what the hell am I going to do with these girls. They grow so damn fast in coco that in only five weeks they force me into making decisions.
Fast growth - consider that in 35 days we've gone from Dixie Cup to 2.6 gallon pot to 7s, and complete roots on each up potting. I consider that pretty damn quick.
So I decided I was NOT going to do the 50 tops crammed out canopy thing. Instead, we're going to leave them both go *relatively* au natural. This amounts to basically I decided to simply top a bunch of stuff, let it go, and move branches as necessary to maintain a semblance of a canopy. That part I don't need to worry about for a couple weeks in light of today's topping party. Then also manipulate branches so that the plant is relatively even all around. I'm going to attempt to continue to take zero leaves for as long as I think it's possible.
With today's topping, both plants, were I to do nothing else, are in the 20-24 colas range, approximately. About half of the number of tops I've gone for lately. By creating fewer tops and letting the plants get big that way with lots of stem under each one and a plethora of leaves, I am hoping to get much larger buds on each. I'll do a fairly aggressive undercarriage clean out later on too of course, but the way I've decided to let them go, I won't be taking off much more down there than the first node, and a couple of them are even developed enough that they're staying. The undercarriage clean will look more like removing crappy little branches of the bases of the main branches which will never go anywhere, vs. taking nodes.
What I topped on the plants was fairly similar. I topped all four of the outside branches on both plants, the lower outside ones that aren't all that far below the tops. Then I topped a few select upper outside branches, if they looked amenable to it. Some did not, and those I let go. The pictures will clarify this, I show the difference. So they are topped evenly all around down low and less evenly all around up higher. I let the main topping two colas go as is on each plant, along with most of the other uppermost branches. I don't want to clog up the middle of the plant. So by topping the outside branches I feel it gives me plenty of flexibility in terms of shaping, yet keeps the middle of the plant relatively clean.
Fewer tops + more leaves + more effective flarf removal + less clogged center + big plants = bigger buds/more yield?
This is the equation (for Shed, lol) that I'm hoping is true now that the decision and actions have been taken.
By choosing this course, it seems to follow that I will get more stretch as a result. I find that fewer colas equals more stretch. So I will be mindful of how tall they get and that will be pretty much the determinant factor in when I flip them. The Mystery Plant gets flipped when they do regardless of her condition at the time. At that point the autos come out and I figure out how I'm going to keep them on 20/4. Haven't gotten that far yet, but I will, lol.
So here's Elora post topping, along with two examples of top spots. Note the look of the top spots. Tells me I need to up my clean cut game. I left more stem because I very much didn't want to take the chance on accidentally cutting away or into the emerging new growth, so I stayed above them for the cuts mostly.
And here's Fulvia post topping and two examples of top spots for her.
So if you notice, in all the topping cases, I have two new growths to come out, one on each side of the stem, and they are both coming out of the same spot. This is how I determined which branches to top and which I chose not to. Unlike the topping spots I showed you, some of the branches looked like the following picture. Any branch that looked like this I did not top and just let go.
There we go. Done. Now we wait and watch.
Training/LST/Topping Decisions MADE
Veg Day 35
Well, only 35 days in and the size of the plants is such that I felt it was time to make and enact some decisions. Namely, what the hell am I going to do with these girls. They grow so damn fast in coco that in only five weeks they force me into making decisions.
Fast growth - consider that in 35 days we've gone from Dixie Cup to 2.6 gallon pot to 7s, and complete roots on each up potting. I consider that pretty damn quick.
So I decided I was NOT going to do the 50 tops crammed out canopy thing. Instead, we're going to leave them both go *relatively* au natural. This amounts to basically I decided to simply top a bunch of stuff, let it go, and move branches as necessary to maintain a semblance of a canopy. That part I don't need to worry about for a couple weeks in light of today's topping party. Then also manipulate branches so that the plant is relatively even all around. I'm going to attempt to continue to take zero leaves for as long as I think it's possible.
With today's topping, both plants, were I to do nothing else, are in the 20-24 colas range, approximately. About half of the number of tops I've gone for lately. By creating fewer tops and letting the plants get big that way with lots of stem under each one and a plethora of leaves, I am hoping to get much larger buds on each. I'll do a fairly aggressive undercarriage clean out later on too of course, but the way I've decided to let them go, I won't be taking off much more down there than the first node, and a couple of them are even developed enough that they're staying. The undercarriage clean will look more like removing crappy little branches of the bases of the main branches which will never go anywhere, vs. taking nodes.
What I topped on the plants was fairly similar. I topped all four of the outside branches on both plants, the lower outside ones that aren't all that far below the tops. Then I topped a few select upper outside branches, if they looked amenable to it. Some did not, and those I let go. The pictures will clarify this, I show the difference. So they are topped evenly all around down low and less evenly all around up higher. I let the main topping two colas go as is on each plant, along with most of the other uppermost branches. I don't want to clog up the middle of the plant. So by topping the outside branches I feel it gives me plenty of flexibility in terms of shaping, yet keeps the middle of the plant relatively clean.
Fewer tops + more leaves + more effective flarf removal + less clogged center + big plants = bigger buds/more yield?
This is the equation (for Shed, lol) that I'm hoping is true now that the decision and actions have been taken.
By choosing this course, it seems to follow that I will get more stretch as a result. I find that fewer colas equals more stretch. So I will be mindful of how tall they get and that will be pretty much the determinant factor in when I flip them. The Mystery Plant gets flipped when they do regardless of her condition at the time. At that point the autos come out and I figure out how I'm going to keep them on 20/4. Haven't gotten that far yet, but I will, lol.
So here's Elora post topping, along with two examples of top spots. Note the look of the top spots. Tells me I need to up my clean cut game. I left more stem because I very much didn't want to take the chance on accidentally cutting away or into the emerging new growth, so I stayed above them for the cuts mostly.
And here's Fulvia post topping and two examples of top spots for her.
So if you notice, in all the topping cases, I have two new growths to come out, one on each side of the stem, and they are both coming out of the same spot. This is how I determined which branches to top and which I chose not to. Unlike the topping spots I showed you, some of the branches looked like the following picture. Any branch that looked like this I did not top and just let go.
There we go. Done. Now we wait and watch.
- Thread starter
- #375
Public Service Announcement for Hot Climate Growers who use AC Units to Cool and Dehumidify
I am such a grower, and if you see my stuff you may know I've done a ton of work experimenting with using AC units on tents for cooling and dehumidifying. But I'm always on the lookout for new tricks, and I have come up with a new one I hadn't tried before that works very well.
This is a picture of how I currently have the AC unit working. Note the distance from the unit to the tent opening. It's about 75 degrees outside, cooler from 5 am to now (almost 10 am). But the humidity outside is high. Always is in the mornings. So what I need is RH mitigation, but not heat mitigation. More than my dehumidifier supplies.
I've always had the AC unit against the tent, and adjusted using the high/low fan and high/low cool settings, which is what most of these units have. I also adjust the temperature knob occasionally, but mostly that stays on high to the cool side. That works fine. But in veg, on 24/0, you need not be concerned about light leaks or anything like that. So having flaps open all the time or even your doors is no problem in veg.
So I discovered that by moving the unit away from the tent as shown, I can mitigate the extent to which it cools the tent, but still shave around 15 points from the RH. Leaving me at mid 70s and around 60% RH, which I can live with.
It's a neat trick that gives you a lot of flexibility just by narrowing or widening the gap between the unit and the tent, and by upping or lowering the AC Cool setting. No need to worry about sealing until flower.
So if you use an AC unit, there's one more AC trick for you!
I am such a grower, and if you see my stuff you may know I've done a ton of work experimenting with using AC units on tents for cooling and dehumidifying. But I'm always on the lookout for new tricks, and I have come up with a new one I hadn't tried before that works very well.
This is a picture of how I currently have the AC unit working. Note the distance from the unit to the tent opening. It's about 75 degrees outside, cooler from 5 am to now (almost 10 am). But the humidity outside is high. Always is in the mornings. So what I need is RH mitigation, but not heat mitigation. More than my dehumidifier supplies.
I've always had the AC unit against the tent, and adjusted using the high/low fan and high/low cool settings, which is what most of these units have. I also adjust the temperature knob occasionally, but mostly that stays on high to the cool side. That works fine. But in veg, on 24/0, you need not be concerned about light leaks or anything like that. So having flaps open all the time or even your doors is no problem in veg.
So I discovered that by moving the unit away from the tent as shown, I can mitigate the extent to which it cools the tent, but still shave around 15 points from the RH. Leaving me at mid 70s and around 60% RH, which I can live with.
It's a neat trick that gives you a lot of flexibility just by narrowing or widening the gap between the unit and the tent, and by upping or lowering the AC Cool setting. No need to worry about sealing until flower.
So if you use an AC unit, there's one more AC trick for you!
Hiya Jon!Public Service Announcement for Hot Climate Growers who use AC Units to Cool and Dehumidify
I am such a grower, and if you see my stuff you may know I've done a ton of work experimenting with using AC units on tents for cooling and dehumidifying. But I'm always on the lookout for new tricks, and I have come up with a new one I hadn't tried before that works very well.
This is a picture of how I currently have the AC unit working. Note the distance from the unit to the tent opening. It's about 75 degrees outside, cooler from 5 am to now (almost 10 am). But the humidity outside is high. Always is in the mornings. So what I need is RH mitigation, but not heat mitigation. More than my dehumidifier supplies.
I've always had the AC unit against the tent, and adjusted using the high/low fan and high/low cool settings, which is what most of these units have. I also adjust the temperature knob occasionally, but mostly that stays on high to the cool side. That works fine. But in veg, on 24/0, you need not be concerned about light leaks or anything like that. So having flaps open all the time or even your doors is no problem in veg.
So I discovered that by moving the unit away from the tent as shown, I can mitigate the extent to which it cools the tent, but still shave around 15 points from the RH. Leaving me at mid 70s and around 60% RH, which I can live with.
It's a neat trick that gives you a lot of flexibility just by narrowing or widening the gap between the unit and the tent, and by upping or lowering the AC Cool setting. No need to worry about sealing until flower.
So if you use an AC unit, there's one more AC trick for you!
I’m curious - is this setup pushing cool dry air into the tent?
Assuming warm air from condenser is moved outside of tent. Where does the condensation from the evaporator go?
- Thread starter
- #377
Thanks @GratefulBud -
It takes hot wet air and turns it into cool drier air. Yes, the heat goes out the back side. The water collects in the bottom of the unit. They're designed for windows, so they're designed to drip out as it fills up. But the drip is way slow. So whenever I hear the fan hitting water (and thus starting to labor), I simply angle it back and dump all the water. The garage floor is angled out from back to front, so the water goes directly out onto the driveway. There is condensation that builds up around the vent and on the top of the unit, and that's why when I am in flower and must "seal" it to the tent wall and eliminate light leaks around it, I leave a couple inch "buffer" between the unit and the tent itself so I'm not touching a bunch of water to the tent itself. I simply fill that gap with rolled up dark colored towels or whatever.
Does that answer your question?
HappyHazmat88
Inhale Confidence, Exhale Doubt
Looking great in here Jon...and nice "tutorial" on topping. For the a.c on the outside I do the same thing... Except I'm using a cold air humidifier on the outside of the tent instead of a.c..... works great as a low fan and cools things off just enough while keeping humidity up.Public Service Announcement for Hot Climate Growers who use AC Units to Cool and Dehumidify
I am such a grower, and if you see my stuff you may know I've done a ton of work experimenting with using AC units on tents for cooling and dehumidifying. But I'm always on the lookout for new tricks, and I have come up with a new one I hadn't tried before that works very well.
This is a picture of how I currently have the AC unit working. Note the distance from the unit to the tent opening. It's about 75 degrees outside, cooler from 5 am to now (almost 10 am). But the humidity outside is high. Always is in the mornings. So what I need is RH mitigation, but not heat mitigation. More than my dehumidifier supplies.
I've always had the AC unit against the tent, and adjusted using the high/low fan and high/low cool settings, which is what most of these units have. I also adjust the temperature knob occasionally, but mostly that stays on high to the cool side. That works fine. But in veg, on 24/0, you need not be concerned about light leaks or anything like that. So having flaps open all the time or even your doors is no problem in veg.
So I discovered that by moving the unit away from the tent as shown, I can mitigate the extent to which it cools the tent, but still shave around 15 points from the RH. Leaving me at mid 70s and around 60% RH, which I can live with.
It's a neat trick that gives you a lot of flexibility just by narrowing or widening the gap between the unit and the tent, and by upping or lowering the AC Cool setting. No need to worry about sealing until flower.
So if you use an AC unit, there's one more AC trick for you!
- Thread starter
- #379
Thanks HH, but if it's a tutorial it's a lame one. Those cuts are brutal.
Not to mention I'm kind of flying blind. Never did it like this before.
We'll see what happens!
HappyHazmat88
Inhale Confidence, Exhale Doubt
Hey I understood just fine....and I can't read....good thing for the photos lol and nah I don't think the cuts were brutal... You left them long which is a good brace to keep stem from splitting.Thanks HH, but if it's a tutorial it's a lame one. Those cuts are brutal.
Not to mention I'm kind of flying blind. Never did it like this before.
We'll see what happens!
"never did it like this before", how do you usually do it?