JBC's Super Soil - Fully Organic 4x Blue Mystic + 1x CH9 Jack FEMS

iSmokes said:
This is what I mean. DocBud is only listing a fraction of the possible interactions in a super-soil mix (great input Doc). I'm afraid I don't trust myself with a mix just yet. :laughtwo:
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I don't trust myself either, that's why I hire helpers. (microbes)

If you're going to grow organic and use organic waste for fertilizer, as opposed to organic extracts (earth juice, GO, etc) then you've got to stop thinking NPK when you grow organic and start focusing on the microbial life in the soil.

Been there, done that, still learning. What I KNOW, I share as advice.
 
DocBud said:
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I don't trust myself either, that's why I hire helpers. (microbes)

If you're going to grow organic and use organic waste for fertilizer, as opposed to organic extracts (earth juice, GO, etc) then you've got to stop thinking NPK when you grow organic and start focusing on the microbial life in the soil.

Been there, done that, still learning. What I KNOW, I share as advice.
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Thanks for the info guys, any other possibilities it could be, the yellowing seems to come and go, just cant quite dial it in, will look into Docs recomendation......
 
Hamster said:
Thanks for the info guys, any other possibilities it could be, the yellowing seems to come and go, just cant quite dial it in, will look into Docs recomendation......
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The reason it comes and goes is because the cation exchange in your soil is variable, between poor and horrible. I know what I'm talking about. Fix it or don't.
 
Can i get calcium nitrate and humic acid at a garden store or would i have to oreder them...
 
Hamster said:
Can i get calcium nitrate and humic acid at a garden store or would i have to oreder them...
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For sure you can get Calcium nitrate at a farm supply type of place. Humic acid at a garden or hydro shop. You could probably get by with just the calcium nitrate, but the humic acid really helps.

Humic acid is what microbes excrete to dislodge cations from the soil particles. They know which stuff the plant wants by taking signals from the plant's root exudates.

When you feed them sugar, they get lazy and addicted to sugar. Like I said, been there, done that.
 
Sounds good Doc, last night was the first feeding of molasses , ill hold off on that, what would your ratios be per gallon of water ?
 
cannasensei said:
Hey mate, wanna give ur tea a go (very similar to mine) the portions u list is that per gallon? Always interested in new brews
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Hi. Yeah its per gallon. Havent used one on the compost teas yet. Was thinking about next feed but they still dont need it yet as everything is a really happy green. Il give yours a read I love how they look just not got PC at min. But like you say still have all chelated feeds on standby just in case.

Hamster mate id listen to docbud hes great with organics! Ithought it was overwatering causing lockout with their puffy curled leaves but probably wrong. Go with Docbud. He knows and give you the cure.

Organic tree huggers haaaaa made me laugh that.
 
iSmokes said:
Hamster I just noticed I don't know how you're growing. What's that mix? your own supersoil? do you feed or is it a just add water super mix?
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Just stock Promix and 1/4 strenth mg 15-30-15 every other watering.......
 
Yeh that's what I thought. Doc is giving great advice. I learned some stuff today :laughtwo:. I actually add molasses to my feedings during last 3 or 4 weeks. I'll hold off and keep a good nute balance. I always thought molasses would be excellent for the cultures in there, but Doc just convinced me otherwise. They will most probably get lazy and completely depend on sugar (why not? it's friggin heaven).

That said, you don't have to confuse yourself to grow some nice buds. As long as you have your little area with a good light & vent, keep it simple for now. I know I will. I look forward to learning more about the actual science (as per DocBud's posts) behind all this. But for now, just make sure the soil and nutrients are at good proven ratios. I've never tried either, so I can't comment on how much to feed or anything.. Fox Farm's Ocean Forest and BPN got along very well and gave me some nice juicy meds. This I tried, so I can actually recommend. :thumb:

Cheers guys! Great posts Doc :)
 
Thanks JBC for the reps......:thumb:
 
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Hamster said:
I know, its not a watering issue, im thinking maybe a mag diff. im looking into it....
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DocBud said:
It's not a deficiency, it has to do with the ability of the soil to release cations. If you add Mg, you'll make it worse, because you'll interfere with nitrogen uptake.

The molasses is probably making it worse, because you're feeding your soil life off the dollar menu at MickyD's (sugar.) Not only that, but molasses is high in potassium, which inhibits magnesium. Classic vicious cycle.

Here's the fix:

1.oz of calcium nitrate per 5 gallons of water, plus 5 oz of humic acid.

That will dislodge the cations in the soil and get the plants back on track.

Your starting soil was probably too high in sodium (detrimental cation) and potassium (inhibits magnesium uptake)

This sort of thing happens frequently in home-built supersoils, because they aren't constructed scientifically, but usually according to traditions.
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Can I butt in for a sec to throw my pennies around :)

:cough::geek: The purplish threw the lower veins of the leaves are signs of Phosphorus def in middle stages. Your giving to much bloom nutes are additives that will soon add up to a high P def. High P def will lead to an Iron deficiency, magnesium deficiency. All these minerals carry each other threw the plants metabolism. So to much with out the other will cause a serious lock out. In this case its to much Phosphorus. Which is common during flowering but to much is bad. As for the Potassium to much will lockout Ca which in turn will lockout Mg. Which is the same for Phosphorus which fluctuates with Ca. So your main problem and the only one you need to fix is Phosphorus :phew::geek: :)


PS. Add some iron either B-1 or Liquanox B-1 it has 10% iron.
 
Thanks for taking a look Wiz.............:peace:
 
WizHigh said:
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Can I butt in for a sec to throw my pennies around :)

:cough::geek: The purplish threw the lower veins of the leaves are signs of Phosphorus def in middle stages. Your giving to much bloom nutes are additives that will soon add up to a high P def. High P def will lead to an Iron deficiency, magnesium deficiency. All these minerals carry each other threw the plants metabolism. So to much with out the other will cause a serious lock out. In this case its to much Phosphorus. Which is common during flowering but to much is bad. As for the Potassium to much will lockout Ca which in turn will lockout Mg. Which is the same for Phosphorus which fluctuates with Ca. So your main problem and the only one you need to fix is Phosphorus :phew::geek: :)


PS. Add some iron either B-1 or Liquanox B-1 it has 10% iron.
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wow! lol..like I said Wiz, hydro is so much easier:)
 
DocBud said:
..
I don't trust myself either, that's why I hire helpers. (microbes)

If you're going to grow organic and use organic waste for fertilizer, as opposed to organic extracts (earth juice, GO, etc) then you've got to stop thinking NPK when you grow organic and start focusing on the microbial life in the soil.

"feed the soil not the plant with organics"

Been there, done that, still learning. What I KNOW, I share as advice.
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"feed the soil not the plant"
 
jon705 said:
wow! lol..like I said Wiz, hydro is so much easier:)
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Im starting to think so my self. Only reason I know all of this is because when I first started growing I had no nutes at all, I didnt even know what nutes were 3-4 months ago lol. So I had to learn everything and read up on alot. My plants use to have so many deficiencies and I just learned what they were and then learned how to narrow it down and fix the problem. That is what soil brought me. Ever since then I found alot less problems in coco and now hydro :)
 
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