Re: Jandre2k3's Cardboard Flowerbox - 41 Week Perpetual SOG Part2 - Blue Planet Nutri
looks great J
photos look professional
plants look delicious too
looks great J
photos look professional
plants look delicious too
How To Use Progressive Web App aka PWA On 420 Magazine Forum
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looks great J
photos look professional
plants look delicious too
Looking sweet enough to eat!
Yeah what they said
what you talkin about Willis?It's all about the he said she said bullshit!
I think you better quit
Talkin' that shit
Or you'll be leavin' with a fat lip.
what you talkin about Willis?
Ok so here we go:
First of all, VERY IMPORTANT!!! : TOO MUCH copper will KILL your plants. no Joke. So please, please, please, if you use this recipe you must have a VERY accurate scale. something like a jewelers scale that measures grams to at least one decimal place.
This recipe is for 1 gallon of homemade RootZone DM
first of all, when buying copper sulfate, there a couple different formulations for that particular chemical. so, what I have done is this: The following link is for 500 grams of copper sulfate pentahydrate
CHEM CU SULFATE PENTA ACS 500G - Laboratory Chemicals - Laboratory Supplies - 8EJ50 : Grainger Industrial Supply
The molecular weight of copper sulfate pentahydrate is 249.68
The molecular weight of copper is 63.546
divide 63.546 by 249.68 and you will find that copper sulfate pentahydrate is 25.6% copper. If you use another form of copper sulfate, make sure that you know the molecular weight of the compound which you can find using a periodic table. the reason I say this is that there is also Copper(II) sulfate (cupric sulfate) which has a higher percentage of copper because it is not hydrated.
Anyway, for 1 gallon, you will need exactly 15.14 grams of copper sulfate pentahydrate which is 1.024 grams of elemental copper per liter of water and thus 3.88 grams of elemental copper per gallon
1.024 grams elemental copper per 1000 ml RO water equals .1% soluble copper.
The amount of potassium nitrate in that stuff is negligible. I don't even know why it is in there. They use roughly 13 grams of potassium nitrate per gallon which does not contribute to the potassium or nitrogen content of your nutrient solution much at all.
So, just throw in 13-14 grams per gallon of potassium nitrate (saltpeter) and you will have roughly .06% nitrogen and .15% potassium
you can get potassium nitrate just about anywhere. you can get it on ebay for about $5 a pound all day long and most of the stuff listed on ebay is refined and high quality....much more pure than what is needed for this recipe.
anyway, to re-cap this recipe for 1 gallon of homemade rootzone DM:
use 15.14 grams of copper sulfate pentahydrate
13 grams of potassium nitrate
and 1 gallon (3785) ml pure RO water
There you have it. 1 gallon of RootZone DM for pennies!
Thank you very much... as I bow deeply for the audience lol
hey bro just a few random things.
i hear honey is the best rooter.
low n we know, high carbs is new to me but suppose to speed things up.
lol thats it really.
good luck! =D
Honey/Molasses is food for bacteria in a hydro system. I'm trying to get my system back to sterile. Not gonna try to do that, and give bacteria food at the same time. Although that does seem oddly, sadisticly, funny to lure them in, only to have them die to increased copper levels.
Although using honey thusly is a double edged sword, it still has benefit if the application is done correctly.
Create a syrup similar to to how we feed our bees, but make it fairly dilute, perhaps 5 parts water to 1 part honey. (depends on honey and plant). Allow cutting to stand in mixture for 2-3 hours to allow nutrients to be absorbed.
Replace cutting into clean water and let stand for 15 minutes, then plant into appropriate rooting soil.
The honey has trace amounts of the necessary minerals and ash (principly the B vitamin structures). The nutrient only needs to be absorbed into the stem, you don't want the honey to be sitting against the plant, it can burn the plant.
As far as fungi and bacteria are concerned, you are more than likely to contract a yeast infection which is more benificial than harmful, the yeast converting the sugars into carbon dioxide and then in 1 or 2 days, the yeast will maximize population and start to die off providing even more b vitamins and nitrogen.
Done properly this can be a win win situation.
Interesting... of course I'll have to do my own research to confirm... But thank you for the outside view of my thinking. I'm not too keen on yeasts in my reservoir, though. Granted it's not one of the main reservoirs, but still, can you imagine? Every time I check for roots one of my girls telling me it smells like beer?a little snip i saw on a beekeeping forum
Although using honey thusly is a double edged sword, it still has benefit if the application is done correctly.
Create a syrup similar to to how we feed our bees, but make it fairly dilute, perhaps 5 parts water to 1 part honey. (depends on honey and plant). Allow cutting to stand in mixture for 2-3 hours to allow nutrients to be absorbed.
Replace cutting into clean water and let stand for 15 minutes, then plant into appropriate rooting soil.
The honey has trace amounts of the necessary minerals and ash (principly the B vitamin structures). The nutrient only needs to be absorbed into the stem, you don't want the honey to be sitting against the plant, it can burn the plant.
As far as fungi and bacteria are concerned, you are more than likely to contract a yeast infection which is more benificial than harmful, the yeast converting the sugars into carbon dioxide and then in 1 or 2 days, the yeast will maximize population and start to die off providing even more b vitamins and nitrogen.
Done properly this can be a win win situation.