InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time

[Jon]

Okay it's a bit late for a Wednesday update but I did want to get some inconclusive pics up of the 2:9 70% iso spray's effects on trichomes.

I tried my damnedest to not move the scope after I took the before pics but the slightest breeze or maybe the spray seems to have moved the scope a tiny bit, so I'm not sure we can draw any conclusions here.

This is before, including a winged aphid:

And here is the 30-minutes-after-spray pic, where the bud probably moved .0001 inch:

Not sure if that's definitive enough so I will try it again later this week. And since I have them, here are some other pics taken of the trichomes after spraying:

Like I said, not enough for an answer, so we're still on the journey!

In other news, I ran 16 gallons of tap water through the Doug's Varin pot today, followed by 2 gallons of nutes. We'll see!

I hope all is well with y'all.


Quotes:

You'll have them soon on those autos.

Thanks marcus!

Spacey with a good body buzz seems like a well-balanced hybrid to me! And the Purple Urkle should lean indica so there will be a bit of everything! Maybe there's some THCV in that DV too!

After looking with now more information and a closer eye, I see what you mean where it seems you have some dissolving. The spot of lots of new growth right underneath the big green leaf at 1 o'clock in the first comparison set is where I notice it the most. That's the dissolving there, right?

So given that there are a number of products you already know work and will not dissolve the trichs, why even do this experiment? Are you trying to find a more effective method to kill pests using the (hopefully) proper iso/water mix? I guess alcohol works well to kill bugs?

One more - that winged aphid - is that what my crawlies would have turned into eventually?

 

[Jon]

Hi @InTheShed, I wonder if you could field a trichome/flarf question? I think you'll dig this one, lol.

So let's say I were to pick a lower, flarfy bud off the Apple Blossom, so that I could sit it square on a table without moving, and get my scope in the right spot in focus and not in my hand, so also not moving, thus producing an excellent trichome picture of that flarfy bud.

The question is, are the trichomes on flarfy buds just as accurate of an indicator of readiness as the trichomes on any other buds?

Heh. Thanks!

 

[InTheShed]

Thanks for the very succinct explanation!
What does a dissolved trichome look like? Empty space where before there was a stem/head?

The heads would definitely be gone and the stems probably. I haven't scoped a bud after QWET to see what is actually left on it, but I may have saved mine so I'll dig around.

They look pretty dissolved I thought, what a sad sight ... thank goodness they are test buds

Thanks Carmen! I need to find flowers with more pronounced trichome heads to run the test again, so probably not early larf. And I have plenty of buds around so sacrificing a couple for science is no bit deal. I think I might have a tub of botrytis flowers saved somewhere from summer of 2019. I'll see if there are trichs on those before I dig into the jars.

After looking with now more information and a closer eye, I see what you mean where it seems you have some dissolving. The spot of lots of new growth right underneath the big green leaf at 1 o'clock in the first comparison set is where I notice it the most. That's the dissolving there, right?

I can't say for sure given the flower I used, which is why I want to re-run the test.

So given that there are a number of products you already know work and will not dissolve the trichs, why even do this experiment? Are you trying to find a more effective method to kill pests using the (hopefully) proper iso/water mix? I guess alcohol works well to kill bugs?

I'm looking for options in flower besides Safer Insect Killing spray, which needs to be rinsed off every time. It needs to both kill the bugs and be safe for trichomes so I like to run my own tests!

One more - that winged aphid - is that what my crawlies would have turned into eventually?

It's either how they arrived or what they would become.

So let's say I were to pick a lower, flarfy bud off the Apple Blossom, so that I could sit it square on a table without moving, and get my scope in the right spot in focus and not in my hand, so also not moving, thus producing an excellent trichome picture of that flarfy bud.
The question is, are the trichomes on flarfy buds just as accurate of an indicator of readiness as the trichomes on any other buds?

In most plants the tops ripen earlier than the larf, which is why some folks do a staggered harvest and take the tops first. You might be able to pluck a calyx from a top flower and scope that without having to take much of the bud. Of course you should pull it from the lowest point you can grab so as not to flatten the trichomes.

Another option is to pull a mic stand out of the garage and attach the scope to that! Then you can see them right on the plant...no hands needed.

 

[Grand Daddy Black]

I think I might have a tub of botrytis flowers saved somewhere from summer of 2019.

This made me laugh so hard!

WHY?

 

[InTheShed]

This made me laugh so hard!
WHY?

To see what happened to them over time. And this just might be the time.

 

[Jon]

The heads would definitely be gone and the stems probably. I haven't scoped a bud after QWET to see what is actually left on it, but I may have saved mine so I'll dig around.

Thanks Carmen! I need to find flowers with more pronounced trichome heads to run the test again, so probably not early larf. And I have plenty of buds around so sacrificing a couple for science is no bit deal. I think I might have a tub of botrytis flowers saved somewhere from summer of 2019. I'll see if there are trichs on those before I dig into the jars.

I can't say for sure given the flower I used, which is why I want to re-run the test.

I'm looking for options in flower besides Safer Insect Killing spray, which needs to be rinsed off every time. It needs to both kill the bugs and be safe for trichomes so I like to run my own tests!

It's either how they arrived or what they would become.

In most plants the tops ripen earlier than the larf, which is why some folks do a staggered harvest and take the tops first. You might be able to pluck a calyx from a top flower and scope that without having to take much of the bud. Of course you should pull it from the lowest point you can grab so as not to flatten the trichomes.

Another option is to pull a mic stand out of the garage and attach the scope to that! Then you can see them right on the plant...no hands needed.

Another option is to pull a mic stand out of the garage and attach the scope to that! Then you can see them right on the plant...no hands needed.

Have I told you lately you're brilliant? That's gold!!!!!

 

[Grand Daddy Black]

To see what happened to them over time. And this just might be the time.

Yes, Shed. It's time.

 

[InTheShed]

Have I told you lately you're brilliant? That's gold!!!!!

Thanks Jon! I'm pretty sure I read that somewhere else here, and it only works if you have a mic stand. Mine is buried in the shed so I haven't tried it yet.

Found where I read the idea! Credit where it's due, that's my credo:

I use a microphone stand…holds my wifi scope perfectly.

Yes, Shed. It's time.

I'll have a look at them this weekend, with a mask on!

 

[7Dust2]

Sorry bro Been busy with seeds and tent and crap I'll catch up soon

 

[InTheShed]

Sorry bro Been busy with seeds and tent and crap I'll catch up soon

No worries 7D2!

 

[BooWho2]

Geeez….how did I fall so far behind? That DV is gorgeous as usual.

Last year was an absolute mess with the Kellogg's potting soil at a pH of 7.6, but this year I will probably splurge on some FFOF or FFHF depending on which is easier to find. Haven't seen the MG Nature's Care Organic anywhere and no FoxFarm at Home Depot or Lowe's. We'll see!

No more ProMix HP?

Turns out my wife keeps ordering Trainwreck vape carts. I'm like wtf why didn't you mention this earlier?

Seriously!

I ran 16 gallons of tap water through the Doug's Varin pot today, followed by 2 gallons of nutes.

You answered my question when @Heavenly Hybrid asked…

Mine is buried in the shed so I haven't tried it yet.

Seriously! In The Shed….dude. Go find that thing.

 

[InTheShed]

That DV is gorgeous as usual.

Thanks Boo!

No more ProMix HP?

I'm getting tired of fighting the pH issue given the length of my grows. I have been blending my nutes especially in an attempt to prevent it from rising, and ended up having it drop last grow! And I don't want to have to slurry test every month or so and then correct any change for a while, only to have it happen again.

If I vegged for 60 days and flipped I'd probably be okay, but I'm usually much closer to 100+ days, so like last spring I thought I would try soil for the summer (one of known quality this time) and see how it goes.

Seriously!

IKR?

Seriously! In The Shed….dude. Go find that thing.

Okay fine! This weekend I will tear the place up and find all the pieces. I'm sure the base is detached from the stand, and I'm not even sure there's a mic holder on the end anymore, so that's another search!

 

[BooWho2]

I'm getting tired of fighting the pH issue given the length of my grows. I have been blending my nutes especially in an attempt to prevent it from rising, and ended up having it drop last grow! And I don't want to have to slurry test every month or so and then correct any change for a while, only to have it happen again.

If I vegged for 60 days and flipped I'd probably be okay, but I'm usually much closer to 100+ days, so like last spring I thought I would try soil for the summer (one of known quality this time) and see how it goes.

That's very interesting since I always thought that it was "neutral"? But, you are using that soil for quite a long time with a single grow, so it makes sense that there might be issues. My virgin grow was in FFOF...and I kinda pulled that hot mess off! LOL! I'll bet I might be able to pull off a better grow second time around.
Maybe it would be a better soil for an outdoor grow around here?

Okay fine! This weekend I will tear the place up and find all the pieces. I'm sure the base is detached from the stand, and I'm not even sure there's a mic holder on the end anymore, so that's another search!

Baby steps, Shed, baby steps.

 

[bluter]

That's very interesting since I always thought that it was "neutral"?

ph 7.0 is neutral. growers actually shoot for mildly acidic media.

 

[InTheShed]

That's very interesting since I always thought that it was "neutral"?

It's neutral in that it has no nutes in it, and its pH is set at the factory the way soil is (different range though), but it is much more prone to pH drift depending on the type of nitrogen in your nutes and the alkaline content of your water. Soil provides much more buffering capacity.

But, you are using that soil for quite a long time with a single grow, so it makes sense that there might be issues. My virgin grow was in FFOF...and I kinda pulled that hot mess off! LOL! I'll bet I might be able to pull off a better grow second time around.
Maybe it would be a better soil for an outdoor grow around here?

Soil will retain water longer than HP and provide more stability on the pH front, which might not be a bad thing for outdoors. I'll be going with FFOF or FFHF depending on what's available or cheaper. I don't need the built in nutes that OF is supposed to provide if that makes it cost more.

Baby steps, Shed, baby steps.

Yes. But mostly crawling.

ph 7.0 is neutral. growers actually shoot for mildly acidic media.

Not sure if she meant neutral as in 7.0, but growers in peat need to have their medium in the 5.4-5.8 range and those in soil have their medium set in the 6.3-6.8 range.

 

[bluter]

Not sure if she meant neutral as in 7.0, but growers in peat need to have their medium in the 5.4-5.8 range and those in soil have their medium set in the 6.3-6.8 range.

you can't grow in alkaline soil even in nature. that's why salting the earth was the nuclear option of the dark ages.

 

[InTheShed]

you can't grow in alkaline soil even in nature. that's why salting the earth was the nuclear option of the dark ages.

From what I could find, the reason salt was used during war because it kills plants thusly:
"When salt dissolves in water, sodium and chloride ions separate and may then harm the plants. Chloride ions are readily absorbed by the roots, transported to the leaves, and accumulate there to toxic levels. It is these toxic levels that cause the characteristic marginal leaf scorch."
Source

 

[bluter]

From what I could find, the reason salt was used during war because it kills plants thusly:
"When salt dissolves in water, sodium and chloride ions separate and may then harm the plants. Chloride ions are readily absorbed by the roots, transported to the leaves, and accumulate there to toxic levels. It is these toxic levels that cause the characteristic marginal leaf scorch."
Source

lol same thing i said .. turns the soil alkaline
we deal with a lot of alkaline soil on the prairies here.

 

[MrSauga]

I'll be going with FFOF or FFHF depending on what's available or cheaper. I don't need the built in nutes

There's not a lot of difference between the two, and the ferts are built in with the amendments such as fish emulsion and crab meal. Fish emulsion is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; plus trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, chlorine, and sodium. Crab meal allows for a slow release of not only nitrogen but also of calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium.

Growers like to use the HF for seedlings and step over to OF at transplant. Personally I use the OF from start to finish.

FFOF is a blend of aged forest products, sandy loam sphagnum peat moss, earthworm castings, bat guano, fish emulsion, and crab meal.
There’s no need for nitrogen fertilizers at first;

With FFHF, they state roots can’t seek out nutrition in the ground, so you have to bring it to them.

That’s why FFHF is amended with soil microbes that can help improve root efficiency and encourage nutrient uptake.
Earthworm castings, bat guano, and aged forest products.

Hope that helps.

 

[AdaminCO]

There's not a lot of difference between the two, and the ferts are built in with the amendments such as fish emulsion and crab meal. Fish emulsion is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; plus trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, chlorine, and sodium. Crab meal allows for a slow release of not only nitrogen but also of calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium.

Growers like to use the HF for seedlings and step over to OF at transplant. Personally I use the OF from start to finish.

FFOF is a blend of aged forest products, sandy loam sphagnum peat moss, earthworm castings, bat guano, fish emulsion, and crab meal.
There’s no need for nitrogen fertilizers at first;

With FFHF, they state roots can’t seek out nutrition in the ground, so you have to bring it to them.

That’s why FFHF is amended with soil microbes that can help improve root efficiency and encourage nutrient uptake.
Earthworm castings, bat guano, and aged forest products.

Hope that helps.

That’s what I do also. FFHF up until transplanting to 5s. Usually I use FFOF but switched to Mother Earth Ground Swell. After a few runs with FFOF I wasn’t getting the results I wanted so I switched. ME drains super fast, so I think I’ll blend it with something like FFOF or Roots Organic. Something that hold the water a bit better. I have a buddy experimenting with that now.

The time I mixed Roots Organics, Black Magic for the soil, then added in EWC, #3 perlite, Down to Earth Flower, and Dr. Bloom was when I was getting the best numbers.

I want my next grow to be with a built soil again and as big as a PITA it is, go back to brewing compost teas. Maybe run 1 or 2 massive plants in a 10 gallon so it’s not as much work as it is when you’re running 6. Or give the GeoFlora a shot. My other buddy grows outdoors and is considering using it too.