WreckLoose
Well-Known Member
I never would've thought of this. There's a reason I come to straight to you when I'm having trouble, haha. Thanks Shed.
InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time
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- #26,382
Thanks gang!
Keep in mind that light-proofing with the inline duct fans can be more difficult.
WreckLoose
Well-Known Member
Curveball... They just restocked the 5'' duct fan that's claiming 240m3/h and it's only 25 euros. Think I'll get that one and see how I get on with it, I can always return it or get another depending how it goes. Thanks again everyone. 
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- #26,384
Make sure you can find 5" ducting!
WreckLoose
Well-Known Member
Doh! There's always a catch.
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- #26,386
Much easier to light-proof with ducting and a baffle box than just the fan, particularly if the vent ports are on up on the side.
At the risk of opening an old wound, that's what I like about the hole in the hempy cup. Allows you to put a set amount of water in the cup with no risk of the cut sitting in water as long as the cut is not too long to start with. No guessing as to how high up the water goes.
WreckLoose
Well-Known Member
False alarm... I found 125mm ducting. 
I've got a port on each side and one on the roof. I was thinking I'd use the roof port if that's the best option.
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- #26,389
Wouldn't a clear cup (in a solid cup) serve the same purpose without having to have a spill tray? These all sit on a wooden desk.
Phewf! I have mine in a port on top with a short piece of ducting pointing into a baffle box I made from a cardboard copy paper box. I'll get a pic of it in action tonight.
A clear cup will show you the water level but not the level of the cut relative to the water level. So now you're back to a ruler and that's too much work for me.
I use a clear cup inside an opaque one. Roots don't like light so a clear cup would seem counterproductive there, but I do want to see when the roots branch out.
I pull the inner cup and stick it in a larger tub of some sort, water it until it overflows the hole and then let it sit for a few minutes to drain a bit (or even tilt it to drain the excess), then slide it back in the outer opaque cup and move on with my life.
Pretty easy, and that would also protect your wooden desk.
WreckLoose
Well-Known Member
Nice! Would love to get a look at that bad boy in action.
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- #26,392
I'm not sure how having a hole makes it any easier to know where the stem is in relation to the water level than a clear cup. Either way you need to measure the stem in relation to the water level, whether that's with a ruler or simply holding it up next to the cup to see where the bottom will come to.
Unless I'm not picturing something.
And the outer cup (besides protecting the eventual roots) will keep the water contained if it spills from the hole? Is that the idea?
Will do!
Well, yes. When you initially set up the cup you have to make sure the stem isn't too long. So hold it up next to the cup with the hole and make sure you cut it so the stem stops above the hole and isn't in the water with the leaves at whatever level you want them when you stick the cut.
You should do that even without the hole since you don't want the cut sitting in the water, at least with this method, though I think with VG and HH's version it might sit in the water. Not sure.
Also, without the hole it's not so easy draining excess water if you put too much in. With the hole the excess just drains out. No measuring how much you're putting in, just dump in enough to get runoff.
And the outer cup with no holes will catch any runoff which does happen as the excess moisture works its way thru the perlite even after the first few minutes without you having to wait around.
But, hey, different strokes. But those are the reasons I prefer the version with the hole.
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- #26,394
Got it, thanks Azimuth!
I believe that I've stated many times that it doesn't sit in the water but above it.
If I didn't ,then apologies.
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- #26,396
Between you and double H, I thought it was clear that your perlite method has the stem above the water line. He might have missed that.
Good evening, Shed (and everyone else 
).
I have an oil question. I'm going to be infusing 120 grams of flower into 750 ml of oil. I normally only do 20 grams and 125 ml and add one generous spoonful of liquid sunflower lecithin. Any idea how much lecithin I should add with 120 grams?
).I have an oil question. I'm going to be infusing 120 grams of flower into 750 ml of oil. I normally only do 20 grams and 125 ml and add one generous spoonful of liquid sunflower lecithin. Any idea how much lecithin I should add with 120 grams?
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- #26,398
Well the general rule has been 1Tbs to 8oz of oil, rather than per mg of THC.
8 ounces is 236ml so the rest is up to you!
Remember, liquid sunflower lecithin goes in after infusion (and straining), not before.
No disrespect intended. I read your method weeks ago and didn't go back to refresh my understanding.
We all have our own particular ways that we know well, and are aware of others we "know" in passing. I didn't want to state something about your process that I was unsure of, which is why I hedged my comment.
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- #26,400
Little Thursday update, where I transplant the Jack Herer from @Weed Seeds Express on day 20!
It was looking kinda droopy and it needed water almost every 24 hours, so it was time to move to a 1 gallon pot. Here is the droop:
Here are the roots:
And here it is in the 1 gallon pot, with ProMix HP and @DYNOMYCO added for fun:
I buried it to the cotyledons and took off the first node. Then I put it in the shade to try to lesson some of the transplant stress. It seems to be working for the others I've done, so I'll stick with it.
As I mentioned yesterday, last night was time to take the Red Dragon off the lines in the drying box. I put on the Olympics and sat on the floor of the living room and cut the buds off the branches into a single turkey roasting bag, along with three hygrometers in different places to get an idea where they would settle. They were all at 59% RH.
So I left the bag on the patio all night because that's when it gets really humid in my neighborhood (in the 90% range). When I brought them in this morning the meters read 70% (they were right up against the inside of the plastic bag).
Turkey roasting bags are not, as I have mentioned, air tight!
I'm sure all the buds didn't get that damp, but it did serve the purpose of raising the RH so I can burp it down over the next two weeks. I split them into three bags for burping:
They smell nice!
It was looking kinda droopy and it needed water almost every 24 hours, so it was time to move to a 1 gallon pot. Here is the droop:
Here are the roots:
And here it is in the 1 gallon pot, with ProMix HP and @DYNOMYCO added for fun:
I buried it to the cotyledons and took off the first node. Then I put it in the shade to try to lesson some of the transplant stress. It seems to be working for the others I've done, so I'll stick with it.
As I mentioned yesterday, last night was time to take the Red Dragon off the lines in the drying box. I put on the Olympics and sat on the floor of the living room and cut the buds off the branches into a single turkey roasting bag, along with three hygrometers in different places to get an idea where they would settle. They were all at 59% RH.
So I left the bag on the patio all night because that's when it gets really humid in my neighborhood (in the 90% range). When I brought them in this morning the meters read 70% (they were right up against the inside of the plastic bag).
Turkey roasting bags are not, as I have mentioned, air tight!
I'm sure all the buds didn't get that damp, but it did serve the purpose of raising the RH so I can burp it down over the next two weeks. I split them into three bags for burping:
They smell nice!
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