In The Lab

For sure not for flowering...again those are instructions for my grow. What I like to do in it may or may not work for you ;)

Curso...Would you mind explaining the "no plastic pot " thing to me? I am currently using "rootbuilder 2" pots and love them for all the airpruning that goes on and they are great for letting the roots breath. It's hard to overwater with them because of their design.Alot of large nurseries use them in europe for their fast re-potting and being able to grow trees alot longer in any given pot due to the very well developed root system.They are plastic ,but maybe not the plastic you are refering to?I used to just use 5-7 gal plastic pales but ever since i went to these "rootbuilder 2's i havn,t looked back.Anyone who tries em...loves em!:) One of my last crops with reg. pales got root aphids that i just couldn't get rid of.I found out that they(aphids) were eating through a main (circling) root ...when they munch through the root ,they literally cut off all the rest of the root system from that "chew point " forward...no what i mean? I could pull the entire plant out of the pot with almost no resistance.The aphids were able to kill a plant just by chewing through ONE main root .Because this root was actually circling the pot and was one of the main roots the plants were suffering big time.This cannot happen with these "rootbuilder 2's.Crop after crop i am amazed at the very well developed root system in these pots.They are inexpensive and are very easy to work with.Curso,have you seen these pots?I currently have three MK Ultra's finishing in them now.A few pages back in Doc's Q & A thread, there is a pic you can see them in. Cheers !
 
Curso...Would you mind explaining the "no plastic pot " thing to me? I am currently using "rootbuilder 2" pots and love them for all the airpruning that goes on and they are great for letting the roots breath. It's hard to overwater with them because of their design.Alot of large nurseries use them in europe for their fast re-potting and being able to grow trees alot longer in any given pot due to the very well developed root system.They are plastic ,but maybe not the plastic you are refering to?I used to just use 5-7 gal plastic pales but ever since i went to these "rootbuilder 2's i havn,t looked back.Anyone who tries em...loves em!:) One of my last crops with reg. pales got root aphids that i just couldn't get rid of.I found out that they(aphids) were eating through a main (circling) root ...when they munch through the root ,they literally cut off all the rest of the root system from that "chew point " forward...no what i mean? I could pull the entire plant out of the pot with almost no resistance.The aphids were able to kill a plant just by chewing through ONE main root .Because this root was actually circling the pot and was one of the main roots the plants were suffering big time.This cannot happen with these "rootbuilder 2's.Crop after crop i am amazed at the very well developed root system in these pots.They are inexpensive and are very easy to work with.Curso,have you seen these pots?I currently have three MK Ultra's finishing in them now.A few pages back in Doc's Q & A thread, there is a pic you can see them in. Cheers !


I explained it in my thread ;)
 
Curso...Would you mind explaining the "no plastic pot " thing to me? I am currently using "rootbuilder 2" pots and love them for all the airpruning that goes on and they are great for letting the roots breath. It's hard to overwater with them because of their design.Alot of large nurseries use them in europe for their fast re-potting and being able to grow trees alot longer in any given pot due to the very well developed root system.They are plastic ,but maybe not the plastic you are refering to?I used to just use 5-7 gal plastic pales but ever since i went to these "rootbuilder 2's i havn,t looked back.Anyone who tries em...loves em!:) One of my last crops with reg. pales got root aphids that i just couldn't get rid of.I found out that they(aphids) were eating through a main (circling) root ...when they munch through the root ,they literally cut off all the rest of the root system from that "chew point " forward...no what i mean? I could pull the entire plant out of the pot with almost no resistance.The aphids were able to kill a plant just by chewing through ONE main root .Because this root was actually circling the pot and was one of the main roots the plants were suffering big time.This cannot happen with these "rootbuilder 2's.Crop after crop i am amazed at the very well developed root system in these pots.They are inexpensive and are very easy to work with.Curso,have you seen these pots?I currently have three MK Ultra's finishing in them now.A few pages back in Doc's Q & A thread, there is a pic you can see them in. Cheers !

You're all good bro. Root builders, airpots, and smarties are all G they make lots of fine roots and leave lots of soil to recycle
 
You're all good bro. Root builders, airpots, and smarties are all G they make lots of fine roots and leave lots of soil to recycle

Hey tavosvo...I'm havin a Stella ...lookin at my garden...smellin some really H.B. smells! Can't wait to taste this stuff:)It's all about the dirt anyhow...not the pots! Cheers.
Sent from my Delorean...in the future!
 
just a thought here Doc. I know I do to much thinking, but it's my nature.

Lets assume the brix kit is giving the plant 100% of what is needed. Great.

Now lets assume a scenerio where we are only able to give it 80-90% of what is needed. Whether by not cooking properly, not measuring properly, etc.

Would a small charge like a tablespoon of OC+ in from the beginning give it the 10% missing when it needs it, or would it throw the whole thing out of whack?

Doesn't the OC+ only give the plant what it needs?

on the same subject;

if one starts a plant in non brix kit soil and uses OC+ in a 1 gl pot, then transplants to a brix kit grow, would that screw things up?
 
just a thought here Doc. I know I do to much thinking, but it's my nature.

Lets assume the brix kit is giving the plant 100% of what is needed. Great.

Now lets assume a scenerio where we are only able to give it 80-90% of what is needed. Whether by not cooking properly, not measuring properly, etc.

Would a small charge like a tablespoon of OC+ in from the beginning give it the 10% missing when it needs it, or would it throw the whole thing out of whack?

Doesn't the OC+ only give the plant what it needs?

on the same subject;

if one starts a plant in non brix kit soil and uses OC+ in a 1 gl pot, then transplants to a brix kit grow, would that screw things up?

Not gonna work. I don't have time to go into it here, but the kit isn't NPK tech......OC+ is.

It's best to just mix the dirt, wait a month and not worry.
 
UPDATE:

Beginning on 4/20, 2014, I'll be able to ship bulk (pint, quart, gallon, 2.5 gallon, 5 gallon) drenches, sprays, etc.

My prices will be the same as the lab's prices AND I'll have some proprietary products they are formulating just for us!

So, those of you who I've set up with bulk supplies for larger grows, I invite you to purchase from me. Same price, no charge for shipping on orders over 50 bucks.....no economic reason for anyone to buy through the lab.....AND as long as you're growing legally I can support you.

The guys at 'the lab' do not like talking about MJ, for obvious reasons, but they are 100% in favor of helping us out and I'm the "Cannabis Rep" for North America.

Some of you have already seen the first of the new spiffy labels, and soon now there will be some new, specially formulated products specifically for our beloved crop!

Kit prices remain the same....but I might LOWER them if I hit certain metrics, which could happen very soon.

:cheer:
 
Doc, and other seasoned growers. I've run into a scheduling issue and need help coming up with a plan and would appreciate any and all advice, suggestions, etc. Due to my lack of experience - this is my first grow, (or maybe ignorance) I will be gone for 10 days in late June just about the time my four girls will be finishing up. The plan was to have everything harvested before I left, but I'm not sure there will be time to do this properly. Here's the background.

Environment: High Brix/Doc's kit. 1200 W CFLs. Temp and RH controlled. 50-60% rh and mid/upper 60s (night) to mid/upper 70s with lights on. Fans, filters, etc.

1 Jillybean, from seed, about 20 days, six sets of leaves, will need to be sexed
1 Jillybean, from seed, about 15 days, 7th set poked out this morning, will need to be sexed
1 Cannatonic clone - I've had it for about a week, approx. 6" tall, numerous sets of leaves, numerous internodes leafing out
1 Girl Scout Cookie clone - had it for about a week, approx. 10" tall, numerous sets of leaves, numerous internodes leafing out

All were recently transplanted (per Docs instructions) into 1 gal pots. all were (nearly) root bound in their previous (dixie cup) containers. All seem to be flourishing in their new environment.

Options I'm considering:

1. Give them another couple of weeks, transplant to 7 gal pots, given them a week to settle and flip to 12/12. This would give me 8 weeks to finish them before I go.

2. Keep them in veg for a longer period of time and transplant to 7 gal pots, flip them and water the hell out of them just before I leave, and deal with it when I get back. I could get a friend to look in on them while I'm gone, but he has no experience with mj.

Any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 
UPDATE:

Beginning on 4/20, 2014, I'll be able to ship bulk (pint, quart, gallon, 2.5 gallon, 5 gallon) drenches, sprays, etc.

My prices will be the same as the lab's prices AND I'll have some proprietary products they are formulating just for us!

So, those of you who I've set up with bulk supplies for larger grows, I invite you to purchase from me. Same price, no charge for shipping on orders over 50 bucks.....no economic reason for anyone to buy through the lab.....AND as long as you're growing legally I can support you.

The guys at 'the lab' do not like talking about MJ, for obvious reasons, but they are 100% in favor of helping us out and I'm the "Cannabis Rep" for North America.

Some of you have already seen the first of the new spiffy labels, and soon now there will be some new, specially formulated products specifically for our beloved crop!

Kit prices remain the same....but I might LOWER them if I hit certain metrics, which could happen very soon.

:cheer:

Congratulations doc! You are already my professional cannabis hero...now you are superhero?! Right on. Really excited for the new products and beyond stoked for you doc.
 
Doc, and other seasoned growers. I’ve run into a scheduling issue and need help coming up with a plan and would appreciate any and all advice, suggestions, etc. Due to my lack of experience - this is my first grow, (or maybe ignorance) I will be gone for 10 days in late June just about the time my four girls will be finishing up. The plan was to have everything harvested before I left, but I’m not sure there will be time to do this properly. Here’s the background.

Environment: High Brix/Doc’s kit. 1200 W CFLs. Temp and RH controlled. 50-60% rh and mid/upper 60s (night) to mid/upper 70s with lights on. Fans, filters, etc.

1 Jillybean, from seed, about 20 days, six sets of leaves, will need to be sexed
1 Jillybean, from seed, about 15 days, 7th set poked out this morning, will need to be sexed
1 Cannatonic clone - I’ve had it for about a week, approx. 6” tall, numerous sets of leaves, numerous internodes leafing out
1 Girl Scout Cookie clone - had it for about a week, approx. 10” tall, numerous sets of leaves, numerous internodes leafing out

All were recently transplanted (per Docs instructions) into 1 gal pots. all were (nearly) root bound in their previous (dixie cup) containers. All seem to be flourishing in their new environment.

Options I’m considering:

1. Give them another couple of weeks, transplant to 7 gal pots, given them a week to settle and flip to 12/12. This would give me 8 weeks to finish them before I go.

2. Keep them in veg for a longer period of time and transplant to 7 gal pots, flip them and water the hell out of them just before I leave, and deal with it when I get back. I could get a friend to look in on them while I’m gone, but he has no experience with mj.

Any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

I don't think giving yourself 8 weeks to flower is gonna work. Most strains will go a week or two longer than expected. Veg them as long as you can, transplant to 7gal in May, and teach your friend basic watering. Come June, try to plan your drenches so all the plants will need is one plain watering, two plain water in a row is ok as well do should be easy to plan.
 
I fully approve of and am grateful for Curso's method!

Thanks Doc :) It's taken a little over a year to nail that down. I almost want to get another bale rolling but these plants look so good, I'd hate to abandon something good. I think I'm going to let them ride it out until they look like a normal organic grow then it can go to the roses :)
 
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