In The Lab

My 2 lincolns..You can get inexpensive and more important accurate, measuring spoons and measuring tubes for about $1.50-2.00 ea. These are used for baby/infant vitamins, medication. The one I have has a small rectangular funnel-pour spout and is in mm, tsp denominations. Holds 10mm or 2 tsp. Small funnels, vials with eye droppers and plastic measuring spoons( from any supermarket) work great and keep work space neat and prevents contaminating things..
 
Love the new labels Doc. Looks like I lucked out waiting to order so long :)

IMO the simpler the better. I saw bottles you could buy online that had features like the measuring cap that was described. At first I thought it would be really convenient but then I looked at my nutrient bottles and saw how much gunk gets built up. I figure the measuring cap would make it a month lol.

Keep up the great work doc!
 
Love the new labels Doc. Looks like I lucked out waiting to order so long :)

IMO the simpler the better. I saw bottles you could buy online that had features like the measuring cap that was described. At first I thought it would be really convenient but then I looked at my nutrient bottles and saw how much gunk gets built up. I figure the measuring cap would make it a month lol.

Keep up the great work doc!

You know those little cups they make jello shots in?? I use those in 1oz size ;)
 
You know those little cups they make jello shots in?? I use those in 1oz size ;)

Have about a hundred of those left from a party bus last weekend lol. I've really been loving the Pyrex shot glass measuring cup I got. It does tsp, tblspn, and oz.

Any opinions on what type of mycos I should get to add to my non Myco promix? On the fence between great white and humboldt myco madness or maximum. I can only get non myco pro mix locally so I have to add it for docs kit.
 
Have about a hundred of those left from a party bus last weekend lol. I've really been loving the Pyrex shot glass measuring cup I got. It does tsp, tblspn, and oz.

Any opinions on what type of mycos I should get to add to my non Myco promix? On the fence between great white and humboldt myco madness or maximum. I can only get non myco pro mix locally so I have to add it for docs kit.
If youd have told him he would have sent extra for you dude
 
Doc, Im reading transcript of Jon Frank and Mr. Lynn Hoag interview. Discusses trees especially fruit trees, and carrots etc.. :)
In an example they discussed Mr, Hoag added 20% (1 gallon sea H2O: 4 gal plain H2O ) sea water solution to large trees and to carrots.. The fruit on tree and the carrots were amazing..

I was thinking of doing this too, since the Atlantic ocean is 1/2 mile from me, and (Long Island, NY was formed by a glacier...minerals abound!, Lots of gravel around) of trying this out with a plant, both MJ and tomatoes. Probably try the tomatoes first. :) my tomato seedlings in the HB soil are something out of jack and the beanstalk only 2 1/2 weeks old..my herb plant is 2-3 in tall with 5-6 sets of leaves and small leaves where budspots will be..no stretching. Maybe my light (topled 1200) -28-30" from plant top is too strong/close...but no light damage at all. ..i will start my first grow journal in few days.
Have you experimented pwith dilute seawater on MJ or know someone that has and what the results were?
 
If youd have told him he would have sent extra for you dude

For real? I saw that the root zone is mycos but his recipe calls for promix with mycos. Seems how I can't get that version I figured getting the reg promix and adding mycos would be necessary. I'm sure this won't be my first kit tho :) I ended up getting Humboldt Myco Maximum. I got 4oz for $9 so not too bad.
 
Have about a hundred of those left from a party bus last weekend lol. I've really been loving the Pyrex shot glass measuring cup I got. It does tsp, tblspn, and oz.

Any opinions on what type of mycos I should get to add to my non Myco promix? On the fence between great white and humboldt myco madness or maximum. I can only get non myco pro mix locally so I have to add it for docs kit.

Please don't add any myco. There's plenty in the kit to deal with it. Please don't add anything. I understand you can't get the "myco" soil, but you'll still be OK if you water the cooking soil with 10 mils of TEA when you start the cooking process. There's enough in your kit to do that.
 
Doc, Im reading transcript of Jon Frank and Mr. Lynn Hoag interview. Discusses trees especially fruit trees, and carrots etc.. :)
In an example they discussed Mr, Hoag added 20% (1 gallon sea H2O: 4 gal plain H2O ) sea water solution to large trees and to carrots.. The fruit on tree and the carrots were amazing..

I was thinking of doing this too, since the Atlantic ocean is 1/2 mile from me, and (Long Island, NY was formed by a glacier...minerals abound!, Lots of gravel around) of trying this out with a plant, both MJ and tomatoes. Probably try the tomatoes first. :) my tomato seedlings in the HB soil are something out of jack and the beanstalk only 2 1/2 weeks old..my herb plant is 2-3 in tall with 5-6 sets of leaves and small leaves where budspots will be..no stretching. Maybe my light (topled 1200) -28-30" from plant top is too strong/close...but no light damage at all. ..i will start my first grow journal in few days.
Have you experimented pwith dilute seawater on MJ or know someone that has and what the results were?

Please don't do that. Lynn has much lower potassium in her soil. I've used the seawater thing and it's great, but it won't work right in this medium. The kit is perfectly adjusted and balanced. Please don't mess with it.
 
For real? I saw that the root zone is mycos but his recipe calls for promix with mycos. Seems how I can't get that version I figured getting the reg promix and adding mycos would be necessary. I'm sure this won't be my first kit tho :) I ended up getting Humboldt Myco Maximum. I got 4oz for $9 so not too bad.

Please don't put it into my kit soil! Root Zone is all kinds of myco. The amendment has all kinds of myco....and the TEA has more myco than anything! Please don't add anything.

Folks, the kit is scientifically balanced and complete. Please read the directions and follow them.
 
Sorry for the confusion. Guess I've got 4oz of mycos to add to my SOG plants instead :) Thanks for all the help Doc! Can't wait to get my kit! :thumb:
 
New Instructions: March 2014

The Kit:

The End User will need the following:

3.8 cu ft bale of ProMix HP myco, or Sunshine #4 or Promix BX myco. Perlite can be added to the BX in order increase porosity for indoor growing.

20-40 pounds of organic worm castings that show an NPK of zero K. (1-1-0)

A proper growing environment, basic gardening skills, 7 gallon pots and a sprayer capable of putting out a fine spray.

The Products:

Drenches

Growth Energy: This product provides vegetative growth energy and bulking of fruit and flowers once formed.

Transplant: This product, being organic, slightly favors reproductive growth of seeds, flowers and fruit. It is used to feed the microbial colony in the soil and is used when tranplanting.

Cat Drench: This product highly favors reproductive growth and provides cations and the ammonia form of nitrogen, which strongly stimulate fruiting and flowering, as well as seed production.

All drenches are mixed at 1/2 ounce per 6 plants(30 sq. feet of garden space for those in raised beds) Applications up to 1.5 oz can be applied without harm, but very few plants require this much. Heavy feeders might try .75 oz before mixing stronger.


Foliar Sprays:

Brix: Sprayed every week to 10 days, this product encourages reproductive growth and essential oil and resin production.

De-Stress: This product helps plants heal, deal with stress and provides a broad spectrum of trace minerals. This can be sprayed 1-2 times per week when there are signs of plant stress. Also, mixed at 50% strength it helps high brix clones root much faster.

Both foliar sprays are mixed at 1oz per quart of RO. Use Brix immediately after mixing. De-stress can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Soil Amendments

Amendment: this product is mixed into the bale of Promix, watered, and allowed to "cook" in a barrel for a minimum of 30 days in order to get the soil ready for planting. Please note that the most recent version of amendment has the old "conditioner" added to it already!

Re-Charge: This product is similar to Amendment, but has a few additions and ommisions. It is designed to be top dressed during the 3rd week of the bloom cycle. Outdoors, apply re-charge when buds have set.

Roots!: This is a microbial inoculate designed to work with in conjuction with Transplant. A light dusting on rootballs during transplanting and a small amount at the bottom of the hole where seeds are planted is the proper use for this product.

Tea: This is a liquid humate product loaded with beneficials. It is mixed with each feeding at the rate of 2.5 mil per 6 plants (30 square feet)


So, how does all this work together?


Upon acquiring the Promix HP myco, the worm castings and enough plastic barrels to contain 60 gallons of soil:

Carefully and thoroughly mix the following:

Amendment
Promix
Worm castings.

Place the above dry mix into barrels and water with 3-5 gallons of water. Stir it, mix it, turn it over....and let it sit covered for one month. Temps must be no lower than 62 degrees and no higher than 85 degrees. Lower temps can take another week to "cook" while higher temps might be ready sooner. 1 month is usually spot on.

Once the soil has cooked, it's now time to plant!

Seeds:

Using a gallon sized container of newly cooked High Brix soil, make sure the soil is still slightly moist from the barrel. Not soaking wet....but moist.

Using a pencil, or chopstick or a non-functioning vape pen, make a divet in the soil about 1/4 inch deep. Add a small amount of ROOTS! in and around this hole, in which you deposit the seed and lightly cover with surrounding dirt.

Clones:

Pretty much the same as seeds, but use enough ROOTS! to completely dust the roots and put a small amount at the bottom of the whole. Water with 1 pint of Transplant Water.

Upcanning of larger plants:

Vertically score the roots, dust all roots with ROOTS!, place some in the bottom of the hole, gently position rootball and soak the medium with Transplant Water.

Water All seeds, all newly transplanted clones and newly tranplanted vegging plants with Transplant Water.

Recipe for Transplant Water

1 oz of Transplant per 1 gallon water. Use in the following manner:

1. Seeds and freshly potted cuttings/clones: water with 1 pint of transplant water.
2. Upcanning of larger plants: thoroughly soak medium with Transplant Water.

Use of Foliar Sprays:

Spray Brix and De-Stress 1 time weekly, not on the same day! De-Stress can be sprayed twice a week if the plants continue to exhibit signs of stress.

Mix each spray at 1 oz per quart of RO, using a fine mist try to get the underside of the leaves.

Using Drenches:

Tea: All drenches are "served" with 2.5 mils of Tea. No execptions.

In High Brix growing, drenches do far more than feed the plant. They signal the plant to grow or re-produce, and they keep the biology in the soil happy and productive. This is where the magic happens! Water with straight water between drenches with one exception.*

Growth Energy: used nearly exclusively in veg, with the exception of Transplant water. This is where strong stems and healthy leaves come from. It is also used during the latter half of the bloom cycle to bulk up fruit and flowers. Mix at 1/2 oz per 6 plants. Stronger doses can be used if needed, but generally you'll just waste product. Finishing the growing cycle on Growth Energy results in a sweeter produce.

Transplant: used as Transplant Water. Also should be used during the bloom phase alternating with Growth Energy. It is used at 1/2 oz per 6 plants (30 square feet.) Some growers have found that essential oil and resin production can be increased by using 1/4 oz of Transplant evenly distributed to every plant with each and every watering....whether with a drench or with just plain water. Please note, this does not mean 1/4 TO EVERY PLANT, but 1/4 oz divided equally to all plants.

**Cat Drench: This is used right when buds set. It is strongly reproductive in effect and if used at the wrong time will result in stunted growth and lower yields. Used at the proper time, unprecedented resin formation takes place. It is used twice in a row (no water in between applications). Using Cat Drench late in bloom may increase certain flavors and smells, but it also results in a more "gamey" flavor in produce.

These are the basic instructions for using the kit! A few pointers:

When in doubt about which drench to use, use Growth Energy.
Stay tuned for instructions on how to recycle the soil for an improved second and third run. This saves money AND produces better results!
 
Great revision DOC!!+rep

Im looking forward to the recycle instructions...gonna save me alot of thread digging:cheertwo::high-five::peace:
 
Great update doc! I get to explain complicated things to people for a living. It's not an easy task trying to write up such a detailed procedure in terms everyone can understand. This is your best set of instructions yet! I'll still have plenty of questions of course lol.

Btw I've been reading a lot of your first journals. I was surprised to see that you really are a doctor lol. Would love to pick your brain sometime on medicinal uses ;)
 
Great update doc! I get to explain complicated things to people for a living. It's not an easy task trying to write up such a detailed procedure in terms everyone can understand. This is your best set of instructions yet! I'll still have plenty of questions of course lol.

Btw I've been reading a lot of your first journals. I was surprised to see that you really are a doctor lol. Would love to pick your brain sometime on medicinal uses ;)

My partner and I just opened an Anti-aging/longevity practice. We treat everything from backache and headache to hormone balance, diet/nutrition, aesthetics, natural blood pressure/cholesterol control, etc. We include chiropractic, massage, yoga, western medicine and all sorts of integrative/alternative medicine.

No cannabis yet....legal situation is still dicey for anything but writing scripts....but both of us recognize the value of subbing out cannabis for so many prescription drugs.

If you come to us fat, sore and sick....we'll get you lean, lubed and well.
 
My partner and I just opened an Anti-aging/longevity practice. We treat everything from backache and headache to hormone balance, diet/nutrition, aesthetics, natural blood pressure/cholesterol control, etc. We include chiropractic, massage, yoga, western medicine and all sorts of integrative/alternative medicine.

No cannabis yet....legal situation is still dicey for anything but writing scripts....but both of us recognize the value of subbing out cannabis for so many prescription drugs.

If you come to us fat, sore and sick....we'll get you lean, lubed and well.

Sounds great, Doc! Congratulations, good luck and help get those sick people well :)
 
Sounds great, Doc! Congratulations, good luck and help get those sick people well :)

That's my passion! I very much look forward to the day when we can incorporate cannabis into "retreats." IOW, you make a weeklong appointment with us, we book you into a hotel nearby, and you gather your labs, etc. before coming out here.

Once here, you get a thorough workup with the MD, who reviews everything....and your weeklong transformation begins. Diet, exercise, spinal alignment, massage, medication changes, cannabis etc.

At the end of that week, most people feel dramatically different, are an average of 8 pounds lighter and actually feel like they're able to take control of their lives and health again. Once the stress hormones begin to quiet down and people start burning fat instead of sugar, things begin to happen. It's a dream, most of which is already a reality.....minus a few key pieces.
 
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