In The Lab

How To Use the High Brix Gardening Kit: July, 2013

** New Since Last Instructions

This kit, used properly, will grow herbs, fruits and vegetables in such a way to produce the best flavor, highest nutrient density and healthiest, pest-free plants possible. Everything in this kit is a result of detailed soil tests and meticulous feeding schedules formulated by a lab that specializes in High Brix gardening.


What you will need:


1.)The kit. You have that already if you're reading this!


2.)Six pots of about 7 gallons each, OR seven “smart pots” in the 5 gallon range. Do not use smaller than 5 gallons. You will not have the success you should have if you use smaller pots.


3.)A small, graduated measuring glass, up to one ounce.


4.)An eye dropper, preferably marked in .5ml increments. The cheap, disposable ones are perfect.


5.)a very good spray bottle that puts out a fine mist.

6.)a proper, climate controlled growing area. IE, you can't grow tomatoes outside in the dead of winter, even with this kit. You can't grow a nice herb garden in a closet that gets over 100 degrees and up to 80%rh....even with this kit.

7.)One bale---3.8 cubic feet---of ProMix HP. Do not use another soil. It won't work. Everything in this kit is designed around ProMix HP. Don't be a jackass and use another soil, stick with what's recommended and be blown away.

8.)Optional: 20 pounds of organic worm castings. NOT composted worm manure.....real castings.

9.)Garbage cans, large tank, etc. 60 gallons in size, or two 40's, etc. You'll need enough for about 60 gallons of soil.

What is included in the kit:

1.)Soil amendment. Minerals, plant food, etc. There is one large bag of this marked, “Amendment”

2.)Soil re-charge. Similar to the amendment but with a a few additions. There is a bag marked “re-charge.)

3.)Root [FONT=ArialMT, sans-serif]Mycorrhizal inoculate[/FONT]
This is added to the transplant hole, or the hole where seeds are germinated. This bag is marked “Root Zone.”

4.)8 oz foliar spray “Brix”

5.) 8 oz foliar spray called “Stress”

6.) 6 oz fertilizer called, “Energy”

7.) 1 oz soil conditioner called, “Conditioner.”

1 oz concentrated microbial boost called “Tea”

4 oz Organic Nutrient Extract, called “transplant”

2 oz foliar spray "Bug and Pest"**

2 oz root drench "Cationic Drench"**

**New since last instructions

A word of advice:


Everything in this kit is synergistic. The soil is perfectly balanced with every mineral in perfect ratio. Don't do something stupid like adding a product your Uncle's friend recommended. Don't fall for the “more is better” trap. Use the products exactly as instructed, stand back, and amaze yourself, your family, and all the new friends you'll make when they try your produce. Do not use any other products in conjunction with this kit! They will not help, and will only hurt.


Step One: Soil Prep


Thoroughly mix the following:


1.)ProMix HP
2.)Amendment
3.)Worm Castings


This will fill a 40 gallon barrel and spill over to halfway fill another 40 gallon barrel. Put half the mix in the barrel and water with .5 oz of Conditioner in 1.5 gallons of water. Put the other half of the mix in the barrel and water with another .5 oz of Conditioner in 1.5 gallons of water.

(note: If you're using 40 gallon cans water the first half with one gallon, the second half with one gallon, and use the one remaining gallon in the partially full can.)

Ideally, this mix sits covered in a trash can for one month, during which time visible fungus will be seen as white, wispy cotton on the surface of the soil. Don't worry if you don't get visible fungus on top. Everything will still work fine.

Step Two: Transplanting/germination

Using a starter pot ½ to 1 gallon in size....

If transplanting cuttings, skip step 4. For seed germination, do not skip step 4.

  1. Fill with the soil from step one.
  2. Make a hole large enough to accommodate the cutting
  3. Coat inside of hole with “Root Zone” Be liberal, but don't run out till you've covered every plant. There should be ample amount in the kit.
  4. If germinating seeds, make the hole and apply Root Zone and deposit seed AFTER watering in step 5.
  5. water each cutting/seed with 1 pint of Transplant Water. Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz “Transplant” per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot.


Step Three: Vegetative Growth**


We're going to build some roots. We don't care so much about leaves at this point, although they'll start looking really nice too.


The first watering after transplant can be with with straight water.
If the plants look healthy, the next 1 or 2 watering are also done with straight water.


Every second or third watering we are going to alternate one of two products:

Transplant and Energy.
**

  1. One half ounce (.5oz) of “Energy” (or Transplant) in one gallon of water.
  2. 2ml of “Tea." Add this to a small amount of water, like an 8oz cup and let it sit for a few minutes before pouring it into the gallon of “Energy.”

It looks like this: Transplant water, water, water, Energy, water, Transplant, water, Energy, water, etc.

Some gardens might benefit from feeding every 3 waterings, others might get better results feeding every other time.

TIP: Just put an half ounce of either Energy or Transplant in a 5 gallon bucket, add the TEA, and give each plant 3/4 of a gallon and you've just fed 6 plants. For a full 4x8 tray, add a full ounce.


**1 oz of Transplant and 2ml of Tea per gallon of water are used on alternate feedings. We are going to play these two different sources of energy against eachother which will result in more vigor and better essential oil production in herbs and more nutrition, sugars and calcium in fruits and vegetables.


The above mix is ample for the size of garden recommended. More is NOT BETTER!


The idea here is to take that gallon of feed water and evenly distribute it to each plant. If you use five gallon buckets, you'll need two of them, ½ gallon in each bucket, just make sure the gallon of feed water is evenly fed to all plants.

For those with irregular gardens, just remember: 1 oz of Energy covers 30 square feet.


Foliar Spraying:**

**When Cuttings are fresh and rooting, a light mist of 1/2 strength Stress will give great results!
When cuttings are established, or when seedlings have 5 sets of leaves, it's time to spray full strength. This is the heart and soul of High Brix growing. Pay close attention!!!**


Once a week give them a boost of “Brix.” 1 ounce per quart of water. IE, 1 ounce per spray bottle. Spray a light mist on the plants, trying to get the underside of the leaves as much as possible. If you find you have Brix left over, do not try to save it or store it for longer than a day. Merely adjust the amount you're using so that you have minimal waste. As the plants get larger, they'll require you to adjust your recipe. 1oz will cover a very large garden!

Spray with “Brix” weekly, right up to harvest.

Remember! We're not trying to duplicate a rainstorm! We just want a fine mist on the leaves.

In between sprayings of “Brix” or anytime the plants look a bit stressed, give them a spray of “Stress.” Again, concentrate on the underside of the leaves.
The recipe for Stress is also 1oz per quart of water. Stress can be saved in a refrigerator for several days. It smells pretty bad right out of the bottle, but try to get used to it and smell it before using a stored batch to make sure it hasn't changed in any way. If you're not sure, throw it out and start fresh, making a mental note to adjust your recipe.


I find that the plants get a spraying about 2-3 times a week. Once or twice with “Stress”, once with “Brix.”

**A new spray called "Bug and Pest" is included with the kit. We mix this one at 1 oz per gallon. Really drench the plants, top and bottom with this one. I like to use it when the first pistils are forming in early bloom. It will kill many insects, like mites and thripes, but it also washes the leaves, kills PM, and increases photosynthesis in the leaves.

There is enough for two applications in the kit, which is ample when combined with the other sprays. The bugs just don't have a chance.

Step Four: The Blooming/Fruiting Phase**


When it's time to transplant out of veg containers and into the final pots that will take the plant to harvest, again coat the roots with Root Zone.

**Water the freshl transplants with Bloom-Transplant a solution consisting of 1/2 oz Transplant/gallon per number of plants! For example, if I have 6 plants I'm going to use 2.5 oz of Transplant in a bucket of water large enough to give each plant a gallon. In this case, unless I have a six gallon bucket, I'll need two buckets. Each fresh transplant is watered in gently with one gallon of the above solution. Add 3 mil of Tea to this mix.


When the plants are ready, it's time to get some blossoms and flowering started.


**Many herbaceous plants grown indoors and forced to flower will benefit from a Cationic Drench. Vegetable crops like Tomatos will benefit from this treatment as soon as the plants are mature enough to put out blossom. You can grow them as large as you like and literally cover them in yellow blossoms overnight.

Feed the Cationic Drench twice in a row durings Week 3 or 4 of the blooming phase at the exact same concentration as you would feed Energy, IE 1oz per 30 Sq. Feet as instructed above in the Veg section.

We're also going to feed 1 more dose of Transplant at the rate of 1oz per 30 sq ft, sometime around week 7 of bloom for plants that complete flowering in 8 weeks or longer.

A Sample feeding schedule in bloom might look like this:

Bloom-Transplant, water, water, Cationic Drench, Cationic Drench, water, Energy, water, Transplant, water


Tip:

Water small amounts at a time between feedings, enough to keep the soil slightly moist, but not enough to drown the plants or "flush" them. Feel free to flush the plants if needed, but normally it's not necessary.

Stand back and watch.

Enjoy!

Don't pH your water people. It's a bad idea for lots of reasons. Please don't do it.
 
Nice update Doc. I've been curious how the alternating feedings turned out. I finally started cooking some kit soil after an emergency garden move into a temporary space. Now I just have to build a new room and nurse the girls along for a little while. Since I'm starting a new space I'm thinking of moving towards the 1-2 plants per light model and had some questions regarding mineralization. If 1 plant has 1kw or even 500w it seems it would require a lot more nutrition than 6 plants under 1kw, so would this type of garden model require a 2nd recharge or maybe I should use 10-12 gal pots?

Beautiful plants graytail!
 
Nice update Doc. I've been curious how the alternating feedings turned out. I finally started cooking some kit soil after an emergency garden move into a temporary space. Now I just have to build a new room and nurse the girls along for a little while. Since I'm starting a new space I'm thinking of moving towards the 1-2 plants per light model and had some questions regarding mineralization. If 1 plant has 1kw or even 500w it seems it would require a lot more nutrition than 6 plants under 1kw, so would this type of garden model require a 2nd recharge or maybe I should use 10-12 gal pots?

Beautiful plants graytail!

There's no comparison between 500watts and 1kw when it comes to PAR values. You get more with the stronger light. I see no problem with 1 or 2 plants per light. You gonna run a SCROG or Trellis?
 
Good update Doc! I see we are evolving. I was just thinking of the alternate feedings. Im going to swap all my feedings over to the updated instructions. I love this style of growing.

There are definitely some improvements I can make with the new instructions. Much appreciated Doc!!

I am with Curso, I miss the rake too
 
Good update Doc! I see we are evolving. I was just thinking of the alternate feedings. Im going to swap all my feedings over to the updated instructions. I love this style of growing.

There are definitely some improvements I can make with the new instructions. Much appreciated Doc!!

I am with Curso, I miss the rake too

You can always get the rake back on page five if you need it. Don't skip the pliers!

So here's a little tip on transplanting. This is NOT MY CLONE! It is a cut from another grower that I'm going to try in my garden. Here's an easy way to go from small container to large.

1.)Fill enough dirt so that the transplant is at the right level vertically in the pot.
Picture_002202.jpg

2.)place identical (or actual) small container inside of large. Fill around with dirt. Wiggle container back and forth to lightly compact soil in the exact shape of incoming root ball....
Picture_003205.jpg

3.)Sprinkle Root Zone
Picture_005187.jpg
Picture_006174.jpg
Picture_007156.jpg

4.)Plant!
Picture_008143.jpg


When I'm transplanting/pruning/blooming 10 plants at a time, I use a helper. Helpers in my garden are sometimes novices, others have "skills" that are peculiar to Cannabis traditions but foreign to good horticultural practice....so I standardize things.

You can't go wrong fitting the old container inside the new. You'll get it exactly right, every time.
 
There's no comparison between 500watts and 1kw when it comes to PAR values. You get more with the stronger light. I see no problem with 1 or 2 plants per light. You gonna run a SCROG or Trellis?

Ill probably top and tie down early, then support each top with bamboo, or tie trellis netting between the stakes so I can still rotate. Thats of course for 2 plants per light. I think thats a better transition as I'm used to running 4-5 per light. These girls are already in 1 gal pots and will have a good 2 more months to veg. Do you think it would be advantageous to flower these girls in 10 gal geopots?
 
Hey Doc,

I made a batch of brix when I first started and kept in in a 1 liter solo sprayer in the fridge and I just saw the piece on storage. Does it go completely bad after a day and how effective were those foilar applications with the "old" brix? Made a new batch obv in a 1 oz sprayer used for eyeglasses. It is small, delivers a fine mist and will minimize waste. The thought of not feeding the soil with effective brix solutions is troubling. I hope everything will still be ok.....

Also with the new watering/feed schedule or even the older schedule are there any do's and don'ts when it comes to timing the foliar applications in correlation with the water/feed schedule? Or does that even matter?

One last question. What would be the result of heavy or frequent stress applications and even brix for that matter?

Thanks again Doc,

Any2
 
Ill probably top and tie down early, then support each top with bamboo, or tie trellis netting between the stakes so I can still rotate. Thats of course for 2 plants per light. I think thats a better transition as I'm used to running 4-5 per light. These girls are already in 1 gal pots and will have a good 2 more months to veg. Do you think it would be advantageous to flower these girls in 10 gal geopots?

10 gallons is better than 9....if you can go bigger, feel free!

Hey Doc,

I made a batch of brix when I first started and kept in in a 1 liter solo sprayer in the fridge and I just saw the piece on storage. Does it go completely bad after a day and how effective were those foilar applications with the "old" brix? Made a new batch obv in a 1 oz sprayer used for eyeglasses. It is small, delivers a fine mist and will minimize waste. The thought of not feeding the soil with effective brix solutions is troubling. I hope everything will still be ok.....

Also with the new watering/feed schedule or even the older schedule are there any do's and don'ts when it comes to timing the foliar applications in correlation with the water/feed schedule? Or does that even matter?

One last question. What would be the result of heavy or frequent stress applications and even brix for that matter?

Thanks again Doc,

Any2

Brix will grow a greenish-white fuzzy mass that floats on top of the solution if you leave it out. Toss it if you see this. If you don't, keep spraying! But I go by my nose. These sprays are full of life, including nitrogen fixing bacteria. So they stink.

Heavy foliar application will lower brix. Just a light misting, top and bottom once a week is the best practice.

If you sprayed Stress every day, you'd have delayed bloom and some wispy buds. Again, once or twice a week and it is very helpful! More is not better.
 
Got some more brix readings:

I decided to standardize to a 5 blade fan and 1 inch of petiole. IIRC from reading about brix, it's not clear that it matters which leaf you take, but a 5 blade is usually in the middle part of the plant. I took readings from three plants, and I did like last time - took 2 separate readings of the same wad. I took each plant one at a time, and went back and read the wad again, one at a time.

Hawaiian Snow - 37 days - 21 days 12/12 - brix 9/9

DSCN10684.jpg


Kerala x Skunk #1 - 37 days - 7 days since pistils - brix 9/10

DSCN10713.JPG


And I decided what the heck, check the NL Autos - 64 days - brix 10/11

DSCN10738.JPG


The NL Autos are in FFOF with OC+, but I did topdress them with 6-5-3 and azomite - interesting readings. You'd think the high K in the OC+ would ruin brix.
 
Got some more brix readings:

I decided to standardize to a 5 blade fan and 1 inch of petiole. IIRC from reading about brix, it's not clear that it matters which leaf you take, but a 5 blade is usually in the middle part of the plant. I took readings from three plants, and I did like last time - took 2 separate readings of the same wad. I took each plant one at a time, and went back and read the wad again, one at a time.

Hawaiian Snow - 37 days - 21 days 12/12 - brix 9/9

DSCN10684.jpg


Kerala x Skunk #1 - 37 days - 7 days since pistils - brix 9/10

DSCN10713.JPG


And I decided what the heck, check the NL Autos - 64 days - brix 10/11

DSCN10738.JPG


The NL Autos are in FFOF with OC+, but I did topdress them with 6-5-3 and azomite - interesting readings. You'd think the high K in the OC+ would ruin brix.

The K in the OC+ does "ruin" brix if included in the High Brix soil, but as far as a regular fert, OC + is very hard to beat!

Brix of 9 or 10 is damn good! Just wait till you hit a steady 14.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

You're not supposed to plant anything for two weeks after a broadcast in a farming application. The soil is actually toxic when the phosphorus and calcium are reacting to each other.

I got my kit and have 60 gallons cooking! :high-five:

I've also been rereading your threads, Doc, and ran across this on page 12. I bet that explains my wilty, mounded Jamaican - I put her in uncooked soil. The Kerala x Skunk, too, developed clawed leaves on the side shoots. They've both recovered now and gone shiny.

Can you explain the difference between the effects Transplant and Energy has on the plants? I decided to give a dose to my mineralized soil plants. I gave the 3 older, flowering ones Energy/Tea and the 2 newer non-flowering ones Transplant/tea. Did I choose right?
 
Doc I just read your journal and Cursos and I have to say thanks!

I am an uber noob but have a degree and background in agronomy and your way makes perfect sense.

The next thing I purchase will be a HB kit from you. Now I have to go find a source for Pro Mix.

Thanks again!
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

I got my kit and have 60 gallons cooking! :high-five:

I've also been rereading your threads, Doc, and ran across this on page 12. I bet that explains my wilty, mounded Jamaican - I put her in uncooked soil. The Kerala x Skunk, too, developed clawed leaves on the side shoots. They've both recovered now and gone shiny.

Can you explain the difference between the effects Transplant and Energy has on the plants? I decided to give a dose to my mineralized soil plants. I gave the 3 older, flowering ones Energy/Tea and the 2 newer non-flowering ones Transplant/tea. Did I choose right?

Energy is Calcium Nitrate in a fishy fert base. Transplant is and organic fishy fert with trace elements.

Organic ferts create reproductive energy, while Calcium Nitrate is slightly skewed to the growth/bulking side of things.

Playing one source of energy against the other will result in larger, denser buds. One drench causes reproductive growth, the other bulks. You can grow higher brix overall by just using Energy as in the old instructions, but I've found that for what we're looking for, alternating them is better.

In High Brix growing, the plants are very sensitive. Changing the ionic balance in the soil to positive---Cationic----completely reprograms how the plants grow. Cations are strongly reproductive, while Anions are growth oriented. Plants need both. The trick is when to switch them.

I don't know if you have seen the latest pics in my Q and A journal, but the buds getting the various drenches are looking pretty good.
Picture_03649.jpg
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Thanks for the explanation, Doc! I feel better about my choice now. I took brix readings again today, 5 days after the feedings, and everything is over 12, with the Hawaiian Snow at 13/15. They got their first shot of brix today, too. These are the plants in mineralized soil.

So far, so good ...
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Thanks for the explanation, Doc! I feel better about my choice now. I took brix readings again today, 5 days after the feedings, and everything is over 12, with the Hawaiian Snow at 13/15. They got their first shot of brix today, too. These are the plants in mineralized soil.

So far, so good ...

It could be that your soil, with the 6-5-3 is very close to optimal! Those are excellent readings and your plants look very healthy too.
 
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