In The Lab

[SurfBuddy]

Hey Doc!

I finally got around to cooking the soil-- turns out I had to special order the HP Promix... anyway should the containers be in the sun or shade during the month of cooking? One is a black trash can that gets HOT!!

Aloha,
SB

 

[Doc Bud]

Hey Doc!

I finally got around to cooking the soil-- turns out I had to special order the HP Promix... anyway should the containers be in the sun or shade during the month of cooking? One is a black trash can that gets HOT!!

Aloha,
SB

Shade brah! Too hot and the critters die and pathogens form...too cold and nothing nappens! 70 to 85 is fine.

 

[Doc Bud]

Pest and Disease Management: High Brix Philosophy

When it comes to war, there is the goal you expect to achieve by victory on the battlefield, in this case, the elimination of damage from pests and disease. Please note I did not say "elimination of pests and disease," but elimination of DAMAGE from pests and disease.

This philosophy differs from one based on eradication of pests quite significantly, although products designed to do so can and often will be employed to kill pests and mitigate disease with High Brix methods. However, the use of products such as miticides or fungicidal sprays are signs of desperation....failure on the part of the grower. There is value in saving the crop using safe means, which is why I would resort to using products like miticides under certain conditions.

However, there is a much better way!

Plants have their own mechanisms for dealing with pests. A super healthy plant will have bright, shiny leaves that are coated with wax. Furthermore, healthy plants with high sugar content will have more carbohydrates in leaf tissue....which along with the wax is toxic to spider mites. It greatly weakens them and their offspring to the point where you might have a few mites but really don't care because they can't do any damage.

We achieve this by trying to grow the healthiest plants possible. We're only concerned with killing mites if in danger of losing the crop. So, here's my strategy for dealing with mites:

1. Environment

Mites hate it cool and moist and love it hot and dry. If you find you have a small infestation turn the lights down, keep daytime temps between 72 and 74 degrees, and humidity around 60%, but keep the fans going!

At night, drop down to 65 and 50-60% rH.

2. If you have the kit, this is the time to spray Bug and Pest, mixed per directions. Drench and soak the plants, top and bottom. The leaves will be sparkling clean the next day and shiny as can be! The mites will be over and done too.....

Follow the spraying with normal foliar feeding in the coming week, except concentrate even more on the underside of the leaves, so as to further irritate and disturb any mites that might have survived. This would be a good time to spray stress twice a week, along with Brix.

Does the soil energy need attention? Is the plant damaged at all? Perhaps a good flushing is in order? Perhaps a good, deep root drench and microbial boost? Experience will guide you here.

If the above infestation was severe, I'd spray with a strong "Take Down" spray made of pyrethrin. I'd follow this the next day with the Bug and Pest foliar, followed 2 days later with the Take Down Spray, and again with the Bug and Pest foliar. This would be for if they formed webs and really damaged leaves. But this is highly unlikely if your plants are high brix and the environment is decent.....which it needs to be for truly excellent produce.

I can usually find a mite or two on plants that are under stress. Rarely do I see any damage from them, however.

-----------------------------

Now, let's talk PM.

The first thing to understand is that Powdery Mildew infestation is NOT the result of a good environment....but a bad one! This is important to realize, because this is going to guide our strategy for dealing with PM.

Powdery Mildew is everywhere, all around us. It likes moist, slightly cool surfaces....like lower leaves under the canopy. A few nights with humidity in the 80's and temps in the 60's is tempting fate for sure. Spike into the 90's and have the fans go out in a power outage and now you're probably gonna get PM.

Oh!!!! But after the disaster, I kept the rH down to 30 the whole time and I STILL got PM! What's up with that? PM, once established in the plant, will thrive in a dry environment, because it sucks all of its nutrition from the plant! So, you aren't going to kill PM with environmental extremes....but you might kill your plants.

So, let's say for whatever reason you've got a couple leaves with the dreaded white round spots on them.....PM. Here's my strategy:

1. Put the environment into "perfect" range for whatever it is you're growing. If you don't know what their favorite temps and rH are 70 at nite 78 during the day 50-60% rH is perfect. Yes, the rH is favorable to the PM...but more importantly, it's favorable to the plants, which are going to fight this off as best they can.

2. Drench the leaves, stem, everything with Bug and Pest.

3. Cut off the bad leaves and any other leaves that might be vulnerable to PM. Take lower buds if they're near the breakout. Err on the side of cutting.

4. Do they need flushing? Energy? I find PM infestations often occur after plant stress, like having them go dry with the lights on. In hydro setups, after a power outage the plants don't get watered and can go dry pretty fast....and they often get PM right after this.

Take care of the roots! I'd top dress with Root Zone and worm castings, then water this in thoroughly.

5. Foliar feed per usual, with twice weekly spraying of Stress. Repeat Bug and Pest biweekly if another outbreak occurs.

Those of us who have been doing the Mineralized/High Brix thing haven't seen any mites. I personally haven't had PM since I mineralized my first soil.

If we concentrate on making the plants healthy and disease resistant, instead of trying to kill the invaders, not only do we have better success....we can do so using perfectly natural, safe to ingest products. (wash all produce before consumption.)

 

[Graytail]

Today, I gave Cationic Drench to the two plants I have that are in full bloom. They're both three weeks from showing their first pistils. I notice this is also the point at which they've finished stretching. I take height measurements every 2-3 days and graph the growth rate, and these two stopped growing. Have you used that metric before, Doc - the stretch? Or are they still gaining height when you give them the Cationic in weeks 3 and 4 of flower? I suppose it depends on the strain, but the application of the Cationic would also depend, then.

They're also due for a feeding. How long should I wait after the drench?

 

[Doc Bud]

Today, I gave Cationic Drench to the two plants I have that are in full bloom. They're both three weeks from showing their first pistils. I notice this is also the point at which they've finished stretching. I take height measurements every 2-3 days and graph the growth rate, and these two stopped growing. Have you used that metric before, Doc - the stretch? Or are they still gaining height when you give them the Cationic in weeks 3 and 4 of flower? I suppose it depends on the strain, but the application of the Cationic would also depend, then.

They're also due for a feeding. How long should I wait after the drench?

Oh yeah, I'm looking at that metric and some others too. As for feeding, the cat drench is feeding......read the instructions....

 

[mrbubbles87]

I'm just starting to read through the massive amount of information on High Brix. I am absolutely amazed by your grows and your philosophy. You are doing amazing things for this plant and agriculture in general. You can now count me as another one of your many followers. I have the same goal of one day growing high quality cannibis as a career although I am miles and miles behind you but I am a very fast reader lol. I would definitely be interested in obtaining one of your kits in the future because where I'm located even pro mix isn't available. I won't be needing one for at least 3 to 6 months though. I've tried finding out the cost and how to order one online but I can't seem to figure it out.

 

[Doc Bud]

I'm just starting to read through the massive amount of information on High Brix. I am absolutely amazed by your grows and your philosophy. You are doing amazing things for this plant and agriculture in general. You can now count me as another one of your many followers. I have the same goal of one day growing high quality cannibis as a career although I am miles and miles behind you but I am a very fast reader lol. I would definitely be interested in obtaining one of your kits in the future because where I'm located even pro mix isn't available. I won't be needing one for at least 3 to 6 months though. I've tried finding out the cost and how to order one online but I can't seem to figure it out.

Thanks so much for the words of encouragement! I'm starting to get really excited about growing....good things are coming in the future.

As for growing high quality cannabis, you could do it right out of the gate with one of my kits....or by following one of my grows in mineralized soils, where I did indeed achieve some high brix results.

It's really not that hard to do, the information just hasn't been put out in simple form, designed for one person to do everything. If you've got 5 acres and a tractor with a spray rig and fertigation systems (which I don't ) this kind of growing is pretty easy...spread out the amendment, adjust settings on the fertigation injectors to the right titration, press a button.....done.

These products are designed to be used that way in market gardens, organic vegetable gardens, and quite a few "backyard" gardens designed to feed the whole family, canning, giving it away...etc.

Getting them into a format for the hobby grower is a bit of a challenge. Adapting them to indoor gardens is also problematic....but I'm making progress!

Thanks for checking in.

Private message me if you wish to discuss the kit.

 

[mrbubbles87]

Also, I struggled to find pro mix in my area. I live in the Midwest in a decent size city, but I couldn't find it anywhere. We do have lowes and Home Depot, but they don't carry it and wouldn't allow me to order it to the store. What I ended up doing is going to the Pro Mix website and searched for distributors in my area. Turns out there is a seed store about 15 mins from where I live that I'd never even heard of and they carry it! Just thought Id share this with everything cuz I know pro mix is hard to find for some people.

 

[Graytail]

I found non-HP Pro-Mix at Menard's.

Just add some perlite and mycos, and you've got the same thing as HP.

 

[BudTester420]

Also check lowes they carry 2.2 cubic ft bags of hp.

 

[mrbubbles87]

I found non-HP Pro-Mix at Menard's.

Just add some perlite and mycos, and you've got the same thing as HP.

The only thing I found on Menards website was the Pro Mix All Purpose Potting soil. I can't confirm if they actually have it at my menards until I go into the store. I tried to research this version on Pro Mix's site and there wasn't any info. It's an all orange bag if that helps.

Also check lowes they carry 2.2 cubic ft bags of hp.

I did locate it in Lowes and Home Depots website but once I put my zip code in for my store it's not available and they won't allow me to ship to the store.

 

[Graytail]

The only thing I found on Menards website was the Pro Mix All Purpose Potting soil. I can't confirm if they actually have it at my menards until I go into the store. I tried to research this version on Pro Mix's site and there wasn't any info. It's an all orange bag if that helps.




I did locate it in Lowes and Home Depots website but once I put my zip code in for my store it's not available and they won't allow me to ship to the store.

The Pro-Mix I got at Menard's is in orange and white packaging and a 2 cu ft size "expands to 4 cu ft". I don't know that I saw it on their website, but my Menard's had those bales, as well as Pro-Mix Ultimate (not what we want) in a retail sized bag. I talked to Premier about the non-HP Pro-Mix and confirmed that it's exactly the same as HP, but with only 12% perlite vs 27% and no mycos - easy to remedy. The Premier guy seemed to believe it was something all Menard's carries - worth a check. You'll need two bales to run Doc's kit.

I had the same problem with Lowes and THD - they won't ship it to my store.

 

[PakaloloHawaii]

One half ounce (.5oz) of "Energy" (or Transplant) in one gallon of water.
2ml of "Tea." Add this to a small amount of water, like an 8oz cup and let it sit for a few minutes before pouring it into the gallon of "Energy."


It looks like this: Transplant water, water, water, Energy, water, Transplant, water, Energy, water, etc.

Some gardens might benefit from feeding every 3 waterings, others might get better results feeding every other time.

TIP: Just put an half ounce of either Energy or Transplant in a 5 gallon bucket, add the TEA, and give each plant 3/4 of a gallon and you've just fed 6 plants. For a full 4x8 tray, add a full ounce.

**1 oz of Transplant and 2ml of Tea per gallon of water are used on alternate feedings. We are going to play these two different sources of energy against eachother which will result in more vigor and better essential oil production in herbs and more nutrition, sugars and calcium in fruits and vegetables.

quick clarification on instructions please: are energy and transplant feed at same ratios? .5oz to gallon of water? from what i see here its energy at .5oz/gal and transplant at 1oz/gal? it seems like they should be the same but in the last part you say its 1oz/gal for transplant.

im assuming these amounts are for a garden using the whole kit (6 plants in 7gal pots), as ill need to adjust for my extremely small, one plant garden lol!

thanks!

about to start my journal as well! my lady is very happy i cant wait to show her off!!!

 

[Doc Bud]

quick clarification on instructions please: are energy and transplant feed at same ratios? .5oz to gallon of water? from what i see here its energy at .5oz/gal and transplant at 1oz/gal? it seems like they should be the same but in the last part you say its 1oz/gal for transplant.

im assuming these amounts are for a garden using the whole kit (6 plants in 7gal pots), as ill need to adjust for my extremely small, one plant garden lol!

thanks!

about to start my journal as well! my lady is very happy i cant wait to show her off!!!

Let's see if we can clear this up.

For a single plant, you want to use much less. I'd use 1/4 oz of either, per each time you feed.

The heavier dose of transplant is for when transplanting.....that ratio is 1oz per gallon, for all gardens. When you upcan from veg to bloom, you're going to give them a dose of this, per instructions.

Unfortunately, or fortunately as the case may be, these products aren't used based on an EC/PPM type of thing. They're based on raw weight per 1000 sq. feet.

The reason I chose these products are mainly because they're the best high brix products out there and because they're designed for larger scale growing, which is what I intend to do someday. So I'm learning my chops on this stuff.

Starting to feel good about it too!

 

[Whiteghost21]

Shade brah! Too hot and the critters die and pathogens form...too cold and nothing nappens! 70 to 85 is fine.

Wasn't sure how to do my first post....not too smart!!!

Have read on the intranets anything and everything you have authored Mr.Docbud -- exciting stuff.

I am interested, the only reason I am posting, in purchasing a kit...I do understand the obligatory information concerning my inability to pm due to lack of posts, well, I have read about it -- I may be incorrect (usually).

So here goes...

Doc, can I buy a kit???

 

[PakaloloHawaii]

Thanks for the quick reply doc. Hate to get this confused but just to make sure I got it,

1 ounce of energy covers 30 square feet

.5oz energy + 2ml tea in one gallon of water. Dilute this gallon and feed to 6 plants.

Same ratio for transplant feeding?

here you say

TIP: Just put an half ounce of either Energy or Transplant in a 5 gallon bucket, add the TEA, and give each plant 3/4 of a gallon and you've just fed 6 plants. For a full 4x8 tray, add a full ounce.

**1 oz of Transplant and 2ml of Tea per gallon of water are used on alternate feedings. We are going to play these two different sources of energy against eachother which will result in more vigor and better essential oil production in herbs and more nutrition, sugars and calcium in fruits and vegetables.

just want to be clear about how much transplant to feed.

I see now that the first feeding of transplant in bloom (when you actually transplant the plant) is .5oz per plant. Quite a bit stronger.

I fed my girl with slightly less than the 1/4 oz you recommended and probably a bit to much tea. I went with 6ml of energy and .5ml tea in about 3/4 gallon of water. I top watered this time.

When do you feed by top watering and when do you do full soak in the bucket feedings?

Also, I'm having a hard time finding a post on when to use the recharge. My girl is an autoflower, so I transplanted early to avoid any root zone stress.

I'm concerned that because the life cycle of an auto can be considerably shorter, ill need to slightly adjust the timing of drenches around the veg-bloom transition. However, my girl is 25 days from seed, and just showed preflower. apparently still vegging maybe near the end. This would leave my timeline very similar to a photoperiod plant, with likely 8-10 weeks in bloom. Doesn't seem like this auto is any faster than an photo strain lol.

 

[Doc Bud]

Thanks for the quick reply doc. Hate to get this confused but just to make sure I got it,

1 oz energy + 2ml tea in one gallon of water. Dilute this gallon and feed to 6 plants.

Same ratio for transplant feeding?

I see now that the first feeding of transplant in bloom (when you actually transplant the plant) is .5oz per plant. Quite a bit stronger.

I fed my girl with slightly less than the 1/4 oz you recommended and probably a bit to much tea. I went with 6ml of energy and .5ml tea in about 3/4 gallon of water. I top watered this time.

When do you feed by top watering and when do you do full soak in the bucket feedings?

Also, I'm having a hard time finding a post on when to use the recharge. My girl is an autoflower, so I transplanted early to avoid any root zone stress.

I'm concerned that because the life cycle of an auto can be considerably shorter, ill need to slightly adjust the timing of drenches around the veg-bloom transition. However, my girl is 25 days from seed, and just showed preflower. apparently still vegging maybe near the end. This would leave my timeline very similar to a photoperiod plant, with likely 8-10 weeks in bloom. Doesn't seem like this auto is any faster than an photo strain lol.

I don't know what to tell you about the autoflower. Maybe just let it grow without the recharge if it's that fast.

I think you've got it right this time:

1 oz of either Energy, Transplant or the Cationic Drench will cover 6 large plants that fill an 8x4 tray. That is a "standard" feeding. Sometimes, you need to use less when the garden is smaller.

Tranplant Water is used upon tranplanting. Here's from the instructions for the kit in my signature:

Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz “Transplant” per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot.

And again, from the instructions:

**Water the freshl transplants with Bloom-Transplant a solution consisting of 1/2 oz Transplant/gallon per number of plants! For example, if I have 6 plants I'm going to use 2.5 oz of Transplant in a bucket of water large enough to give each plant a gallon. In this case, unless I have a six gallon bucket, I'll need two buckets. Each fresh transplant is watered in gently with one gallon of the above solution. Add 3 mil of Tea to this mix.


Okay, there's a mistake in this quote...... .5 x 6 = 3 oz. I incorrectly put 2.5. Please make a note. In your case, you've got one plant....so 1/2 ounce per gallon.

Please re-read the directions and ask me to clarify. I want to make things as clear as possible. This type of gardening is a bit different....nothing to relate to.

 

[PakaloloHawaii]

Doc u da man. All clear now!!! I can't believe how simple the formulations are! everything is 1oz for the drenches and 1oz to quart for da sprays. So easy!

I see where I was confused! .5oz energy or transplant will suffice for 6 plants before transplant, while they are in small pots. but a whole oz can be used when plants have been potted up! Excellent stuff doc my plant is very happy.

MAHALO

 

[Doc Bud]

Doc u da man. All clear now!!! I can't believe how simple the formulations are! everything is 1oz for the drenches and 1oz to quart for da sprays. So easy!

I see where I was confused! .5oz energy or transplant will suffice for 6 plants before transplant, while they are in small pots. but a whole oz can be used when plants have been potted up! Excellent stuff doc my plant is very happy.

MAHALO

Mahalo very much and thank you nui loa!

This stuff is designed to be used per 1000 sq ft......or titrated into a fertigation system. The good news for us is that you won't do too much damage at all if you accidentally go over on a certain drench. This plant was fed double strength until week 4 of bloom.

 

[RainStacks]

Looking great Doc! I am so excited to set up an indoor grow so I can try out the Brix. I am currently growing 6 plants outdoors from seed. I am growing in Ocean Forrest with DM red and WC. I started on a whim very late in the season(I started at the beginning of the month) here in Southern California. I understand that your kit is optimized for Pro mix hp which has been amended/cooked with elements from the kit. My question is: would I benefit from using any of the other elements which you prescribe such as foliar feedings for my current grow? Or would I be better off just thinking of this first grow as a learning experience to familiarize myself with the plants themselves? I hope I am asking you this in the right place? I appreciate all the passion and work you put into this. I am learning a ton. Thank's so much Doc!