Hubba Hubba! Bubba Hash & The Bright Lights Of Redemption: Amy's Indoor v2.0 With DBHBB

[Amy Gardner]

I did some more trawling the forums, following Gray’s breadcrumbs mostly and found the stuff about distance I was remembering - which is mostly about canopy depth. It comes from the discussions in this thread, but Gray has posted about it elsewhere too, maybe even here. (Gray will correct me if I have understood it wrong I’m sure... I hope!).

Light intensity drop-off means that the intensity of the light will reduce by approximately 50% at double the distance (there’s a reason why LED’s don’t follow the inverse square law - not going into that here). These numbers are loosely confirmed by numerous folks testing their equipment with different meters. That means the light distance can have quite a big impact on canopy depth penetration. So if the canopy is getting 1000umols at 12” from the lights, the drop off will mean that only 12” down will be around 500umols. Alternatively, if the canopy is getting 1000 umols at 24” from the lights (so the lights turned up higher and further away), then the drop off to 500umols won’t happen until about 24” down. That’s a whole extra foot of canopy depth!

From all the chats I’ve been perusing about it, I don’t think it makes any difference to the top of the canopy where the light is in terms of height, if the umols (lux, pppfd whatever reading your’re taking) remain relatively the same.

I’ve kind of answered my original question now, about whether the top of the canopy responds differently (so, no, I don’t think so), and a few others I didn’t realise I had until I found the answers

 

[Graytail]

It's nice to see someone dig up old informative posts - I'm a bit of a forum librarian myself.

Yeah, it's counter intuitive, and I always cringe when I see someone post about how close they can get their plants to the lights. That's great when you only have 1.5 meters of headroom in a small tent. That gets you a foot of pot, a foot for light mounting/filter/crap and a couple feet to grow a plant in - a foot of clearance and a foot of canopy.

But if you have a 7-8 foot ceiling, you have another 3 feet to grow in, and if you do the same thing there, you'll get yer same one foot of canopy with a bunch of weak looking swag below that. You need to up your power and back away from the light and you'll double your canopy depth, or more.



P.S. Another way to put it is that you'll get more grams per watt when you don't run the tops too close to the light. The increased yield there isn't worth the decreased yield below. The tops will be perfectly happy at 800 umols.

 

[Amy Gardner]

a bit of a forum librarian myself

... often whole days go by...

 

[Graytail]

This forum is an incredible resource. Truly amazing when you go looking for obscure info and find what's been discussed over the years.

 

[Agemon]

Not sure if you popped over to the Purple Am thread but I've recently read that too much light in flower will produce unhealthy fox-tailing. Another reason for me to get a lux meter or just drop the plants off their steps the last 3 weeks of flower. I'm sure many people knew this fact and maybe it's just a side note of what you're discussing about lux and canopy penetra







SHOWNNNNNNNN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Graytail]

From my own experience, I believe that the plants don't want full intensity those last couple weeks of bloom. I run a perpetual so it isn't feasible for me to reduce intensity for just a couple plants in the room, but if I was running batches, I'd dial the light back at the end.

 

[InTheShed]

Truly amazing when you go looking for obscure info and find what's been discussed over the years.

Especially if it's been discussed by you!

 

[Agemon]

From my own experience, I believe that the plants don't want full intensity those last couple weeks of bloom. I run a perpetual so it isn't feasible for me to reduce intensity for just a couple plants in the room, but if I was running batches, I'd dial the light back at the end.

Thanks Graytail! The soapboxes for the plants are right about 12"s and that's about the closest I like to get the plants to the lights although I've probably been lagging on that a bit, due to ignorance. I space out my harvests by a week to 10 days but I'm planning to grow less and larger plants moving forward. I plan to adjust the QB's down when I put the Candida in that tent and I've got some clones that'll prolly appreciate a bit less intensity too.

Have you found that adjusting the lights down at the end of flower lengthens/ shortens your planned harvest?

 

[Amy Gardner]

Update supplemental: Bubba Hash

I gave the Bubba it’s Brix last night (8 days since the last one) and added some Snake Oil per @stoney Memoirs suggestion. I mixed it a little on the weak side, just becasue that’s how the numbers rounded out, and lower seemed better than higher (gently gently).

I’ve realised I went ahead and used the SO without even checking-in with the brains trust on it, but Stoney M is a long time member of that brains trust and I do trust his take on things . Plus a few of you here have grown the Bubba and didn’t disagree with Stoney M, at least not that you posted . I’ve never heard anyone else say that BH is a strain that needs SO. I am seeing that a demand in the plant isn’t being met, so we’ll see how this goes.

Seeing as I had it out of the tent for spraying, I took some more snaps This is a great example of how moody it is. This is always how it looks at lights on (unless it’s dry). 12-14hours into the day it really starts to curl down, staying like that until lights out, and then will be perky like this again after the dark period when lights come on again. I know plants do this naturally, wind down at end of day ad perk up for lights on, I’ve just never seen it happen to such extremes.

There’s always a plant that seems to mirror an aspect of my own experience In summer it was the bendy-Wendy Candida CD-1 (echoing my bendy-Wendy fatiguable EDS body) and this time it’s moody Bubba Hash, echoing my moodiness and fluctuating energy metabolism. I hope I can get Bubba’s energy metabolism sorted more easily than my own!

Here - at lights on.

Hopefully you can see there the ‘marbled’ fading on the large fans, and also some fade on the lowers. It’s subtle, but it’s there. CD-1 shows nothing of the sort and I haven’t seen it in my other DBHBB plants, so it seems particular to the needs of Bubba Hash.

I am pretty happy with the structure! The UBT really works and the mains are well established and starting to grow vertically. I am gently tucking leaves here and there in the middle and removed a couple of mangled and very small shoots down low. I might do a bit more of a light prune after the next DeStress

Nearly 2 days ago it had a full Transplant Drench and then last night the Brix w SO. If the fade continues to progress, I might have to do the dreaded Rescue Drench. (I say dreaded because of the amount of product it uses ). If it’s necessary, though, it’s gotta be done. Hopefully it won’t be. It’s a matter of now...

 

[Amy Gardner]

Not sure if you popped over to the Purple Am thread but I've recently read that too much light in flower will produce unhealthy fox-tailing

I have been there, regularly, and read that you’d read that! I always assume that liking posts lets someone know we’ve visited, but maybe not Better post actual posts more often

Have you found that adjusting the lights down at the end of flower lengthens/ shortens your planned harvest?

I know SweetSue was working under the assumption that it will speed up harvest to cut light hours down more and more. And Duggan does that in the last month of his grows. I’m not sure he dos it to speed things up though, maybe. It seems more light it’s for better ripening, not necessarily faster. But maybe that’s part of it for him as well.

I am dubious about “speeding up” the end of flowering. Sometimes it may be necessary of course because of life, timing and needs etc. But folks are often talking about speeding up finish, and I wonder if it’s actually desirable or not. If you’re speeding up certain processes then enzymatic processes in the plant will speed up and move the cannabinoid conversion along, meaning THC will start converting to CBN giving the impression that the plant is “ripe”. But is it really, or have we just sped up the conversions. I dunno...

I do know that in nature the sun is definitely getting less in tense for less time during the last month of flower, so maybe winding back the light hours nicely mimics nature. Would be work in a perpetual tho

 

[Mr. Magoo]

She’s a real bute Amy! Beautiful structure. I seem to always have trouble with my plants showing those signs. Snake Oil helped with this current grow but I messed up by letting them get too dry. Don’t know if the herd just stopped working for me or what but within a week all the biggest leaves were turning crispy. Been trying to nurse them back to health ever since. It’s the Pugsbreath I’m talking about. The buds are coming along fine but the leaves are toasted. Lol. Gonna give them a little stronger TP and tea next watering. Maybe after that they won’t get any worse. Fingers crossed. I don’t really know how to correct things with the kit yet. The Snake Oil is good but I’ve had definite signs of PH issues and I used bottled distilled water. It was just a couple plants after 1 feeding that showed the ph fluctuations signs. Must have been a bad gallon of water maybe. Anyway...sorry to ramble. Can’t wait to see the BH grow out.

 

[Amy Gardner]

Ramble away Magoo! I’m also wondering whether it’s simply a “hook up” issue. In which case the RD should remediate Or there’s something of witht he soil cook, however the CD-1 is happy with it (actukkay it has some very slightly burnt tips now, only slightly. NOt sure if it was the GI drench or the Brix foliar as I did them 24hrs apart. Could have been either. I’ll lighten the doses on that one for a while.
PH issues seems odd - the soil is well buffered and should stay that way AFAIK I would think that any issues are to do with hook-up, as you say, or higher demands of the plant.

Besides, aren’t you supposed to poke yourself in the eye or kick yourself in the nuts, or something similar, for even thinking about PH?

 

[Amy Gardner]

You only thought about it.. so it’s nose hair plucking for you! Dont actually check it for goodness sake, or you’ll be inviting the rake!

 

[dynamo1]

 

[Mr. Magoo]

Ramble away Magoo! I’m also wondering whether it’s simply a “hook up” issue. In which case the RD should remediate Or there’s something of witht he soil cook, however the CD-1 is happy with it (actukkay it has some very slightly burnt tips now, only slightly. NOt sure if it was the GI drench or the Brix foliar as I did them 24hrs apart. Could have been either. I’ll lighten the doses on that one for a while.
PH issues seems odd - the soil is well buffered and should stay that way AFAIK I would think that any issues are to do with hook-up, as you say, or higher demands of the plant.

Besides, aren’t you supposed to poke yourself in the eye or kick yourself in the nuts, or something similar, for even thinking about PH?

I believe I am! Lol

It seems like definitely a ph issue though. It was only on the 2 that shared the water from a certain jug. The jug had sat outside for weeks so maybe something with the plastic and the heat effected the water . Not sure.

 

[Mr. Magoo]

Nooooooo!!! Not the Rake!
Good thing I don’t know where my PH checker is!

 

[Amy Gardner]

Hiding away somewhere with your rake I imagine!

maybe something with the plastic and the heat effected the water

That’s actually fairly likely. Heat ‘does things’ to plastics.

 

[Smokeyfromoz]

Thanks smokeyf’oz NL Blueberry sounds yummy for sure! Sounds sedating too. I need some of that in my life sometimes

Hi Amy Yes, sure is sedating, and lovely sort of piney smoke, and i have some visuals, its from SAG seeds, and they did well in the heat here in SE QLD 35c days no issues, and not bad, also seem pretty mould resistant considering it was humid and rainy when the buds were drying, but kept the fan on them lightly

 

[Amy Gardner]

Ya, humid and rainy happens here around drying time too. And cold, which you might not get so much of, depending how far inland you are. Man I’m envious of your ability to finish things outside though. Higher latitude than me. Mould and rot resistance is necessary for me too. I’m already getting fired up about this years’ outdoor grow

 

[Neiko]

I think your bubba looks good. My bubba has a veracious apatite and it could be you just need to up her feedings. I've never given mine snake oil but that's not to say yours doesn't need it. It won't hurt that tank. I wouldn't say you need a rescue drench yet. When you get her into her final pot, I'm sure she'll do fine. Maybe it looks worse in person but what I see doesn't look all that bad. I know we all want "perfect" plants but that has other factors (environmental) and not every strain can be perfect in our little micro climates. That's one reason I grow so many strains, I keep the ones I like that thrive in my micro climate. I've had perfect plants running next to imperfect plants and they were all in the same soil. Your end product will be stellar I'm sure.