shotnva777
420 Member
Ah gotcha! And yes, that's it. I'll let yall know how it works when it gets here in 2 daysI ment it should come standard on the fitting when purchased from Mars
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Ah gotcha! And yes, that's it. I'll let yall know how it works when it gets here in 2 daysI ment it should come standard on the fitting when purchased from Mars
You are going to have to fit it just before the splitter and just after the switches or you will only be controlling 1 light bar unless you fit 2 timers for the UV , which seems a bit redundant when you can do it with 1 timer before splitterI'm going to time the UV lights as I need with it. I plan to just mount it outside the tent, right after the splitter on the UV side,
Ah gotcha! And yes, that's it. I'll let yall know how it works when it gets here in 2 days
I never spoke of using resistors that was Bluter i was the one who suggested using relays
They did but as you can see on the picture of the circuitboard for the switch there are no resister used and only 2 terminals on each switch so no option to fit a resister across the switch either.i thought they were splitting the driver into two circuits at the switch
They did but as you can see on the picture of the circuitboard for the switch there are no resister used and only 2 terminals on each switch so no option to fit a resister across the switch either.
Not necessarily , since the light strips are switching negatives and each bar has 2 negatives and 1 positive in each they might have circuitry in each fitting to create a load (resister) when either light bar is off to balance thingsit means they are dumping the full current into one circuit when the other is idle, and each only gets half if both are running.
it's a real ugly way to build a rig. both sets of emitters need to be able to handle the full current, and yet still operate at half. it's super inefficient and means you either overdrive or underdrive the emitters.
it's impossible to tell when they'd be operating at optimum. it doesn't strike me as a serious fixture, more as a gimmick if they build them that way.
Not necessarily , since the light strips are switching negatives and each bar has 2 negatives and 1 positive in each they might have circuitry in each fitting to create a load (resister) when either light bar is off to balance things
Whats to stop them adding circuitry that when the switch for either spectrum is off (from breaking the negative wire at switch) it adds a load to compensate the spectrum being off its easy enough to check with a clamp meter on it to test current as 1 switch is turned offthey do not. rails or cobs aren't built that way. they only have one neg and one positive one each end. they are printed circuits on the board in series. each strip can be wired in series or parallel together to complete the rig.
this is out of date but has all the relevant info
it's an old site and focusses on cob. led emitter rails work exactly the same. you simply treat a rail the same as a single cob and calculate accordingly.
edit : the switch acts as a type of dimmer on the opposing circuit the way it is wired now. it's a cheap dirty way to build the rig. it's not a serious fixture.
Whats to stop them adding circuitry that when the switch for either spectrum is off (from breaking the negative wire at switch) it adds a load to compensate the spectrum being off its easy enough to check with a clamp meter on it to test current as 1 switch is turned off
Ok I clamp tested it and the total current draw on my meter is 0.2amps and turning either light spectrum off drops current draw to 0.1amp.the strip is pre-printed with the leds on it. all strips are printed the same. they don't change between mfgrs because they are all built by third parties and purchased by the builder later.
strip itself will be printed as a line of emitters in series. that's how i buy them. this one will have two. one uv one ir.
edit : fire up one circuit and see if it dims when you turn the other on or vice versa.
Ok I clamp tested it and the total current draw on my meter is 0.2amps and turning either light spectrum off drops current draw to 0.1amp.
There is no noticeable drop in lux when second light spectrum is turned on .
I'm kinda lost on what yall were saying regarding the unit itself, but some of it makes sense. Lol
That said, the timer I ordered and posted is simply going right after the splitter, on the UV side, in between it and the UV/IR light bar itself. ONLY ON THE LOWER WATTAGE UV SIDE.
The IR will remain the same and doesnt need to be touched... as it will cut on and off, before and after my main Fluence light, via a seperate timer for the UR45 as a whole. The UV only needs to be used a few hours a day, during the middle of the day. The whole unit will already be powered from the 110v timer and powered on, by the time the UV needs to power on and off in the middle of the day.
Honestly, both stock switches could be deleted entirely... as they are useless (unless I want to manually control them). As the power cycle will be controlled by each individual timer. But I will leave them and the unit in tact, other than the added 110v timer at the main plug, before the ballast, for the entire unit. And the new, added timer, for the UV side, via the part I mentioned.
Like I mentioned earlier if you place the timer after the splitter you will only be controlling the UV on 1 light bar .That said, the timer I ordered and posted is simply going right after the splitter, on the UV side, in between it and the UV/IR light bar itself. ONLY ON THE LOWER WATTAGE UV SIDE.
Oh I understand now. So just splice in the timer between the switches for both lights and the splitter? I'm assuming only on the IR side?Like I mentioned earlier if you place the timer after the splitter you will only be controlling the UV on 1 light bar .
The timer needs to be fitted between the switches and the spliter to control the UV in both light bars .
Correct, or else if you put it after the splitter only 1 light bar will be controlled.Oh I understand now. So just splice in the timer between the switches for both lights and the splitter? I'm assuming only on the IR side?
If I was fitting that timer to make the installation the easiest and neatest I would drill 2 holes( the size of timer cables without the jacks )in the back of the switch cover at each end on the side where it transitions from flat to angled is (drilling from the inside of cover will stop drill bit skating around).Oh I understand now. So just splice in the timer between the switches for both lights and the splitter? I'm assuming only on the IR side?