How to Use UV And IR For Growing Indoor Plants

I'm not following, though I'm not too bright with relays lol. Would it be simpler to just buy a cheap driver for one or the other and just wire either the UV or IR directly to it?
I personally think relays are an easier and cheaper option than trying to source compatible drivers and trying to wire those 💁‍♂
Nothing complicated about a relay that we couldn't walk you through.
 
I personally think relays are an easier and cheaper option than trying to source compatible drivers and trying to wire those 💁‍♂
Nothing complicated about a relay that we couldn't walk you through.

actually that driver isn't hard to source. it's the same as a cell phone charger or computer printer power supply. it's similar to ones i sourced for my supplemental rails.

it highlights what i don't like about the current set up. both circuits run off the same driver and the driver runs a constant voltage. each circuit would either be supplied full or one half of the voltage depending on how many switches were open, directly impacting any use it may have.
 
actually that driver isn't hard to source. it's the same as a cell phone charger or computer printer power supply. it's similar to ones i sourced for my supplemental rails.

it highlights what i don't like about the current set up. both circuits run off the same driver and the driver runs a constant voltage. each circuit would either be supplied full or one half of the voltage depending on how many switches were open, directly impacting any use it may have.
Its output is 36v 1.1amp 39.6w
 
And that's the inside of the back of the switch, you can see they are switching the negative wire of each of the light spectrums.

20240104_010231.jpg
 
And that's the inside of the back of the switch, you can see they are switching the negative wire of each of the light spectrums.

20240104_010231.jpg


was wondering if there'd even be a resistor or two. guessing it's constant current not constant voltage. i didn't expect the voltage rating to be so high.
 
And that's the inside of the back of the switch, you can see they are switching the negative wire of each of the light spectrums.

20240104_010231.jpg
Ok so how could I do this otherwise with the resistors you speak of? I'm pretty electrical sound and can solder boards and so forth...

I think I may have a constant current driver that would work already though. It's a 660nm all red 12x12 quantum board that its powering now.... I was going to see if it was possible to wire in the IR to cut on with it. But if you believe resistors are easier, walk me through it
 
Has anyone had experience with UV lighting for "Integrated Pest Management"? I would definitely be interested in using for IPM. I have read that UV C lighting may be useful. I posted a link below to a study.

Ultraviolet Light for Integrated Pest Management of Western Flower Thrips
 
Has anyone had experience with UV lighting for "Integrated Pest Management"? I would definitely be interested in using for IPM. I have read that UV C lighting may be useful. I posted a link below to a study.

Ultraviolet Light for Integrated Pest Management of Western Flower Thrips

this topic cycles through once in a while. i always find it interesting. uv a / uv b often are mentioned in relation to indoor growing. you don't see as much on uv c and effects on plant life.

uv c is exploding in home disinfection and cleaning applications. it's a little controversial even there.
 
this topic cycles through once in a while. i always find it interesting. uv a / uv b often are mentioned in relation to indoor growing. you don't see as much on uv c and effects on plant life.

uv c is exploding in home disinfection and cleaning applications. it's a little controversial even there.
I can't speak on pest management, as ive never dealt with any pest. Thank God!

That said, here is the driver I was speaking of, to possibly run one or the other (IV or UR). Think this would work? I'm willing to sacrifice the 12x12 supplemental panel to have the IR on a seperate time lol. Unless it'll run both...

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I also have this power supply for an old laptop, if this'll work!

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you have to calculate what the emitter needs are and match the driver to it. there are online calculators to help if you google-fu.
 
you have to calculate what the emitter needs are and match the driver to it. there are online calculators to help if you google-fu.
I've tried to Google this problem, I guess I'm not as savvy as I thought I was. I suppose I'll jist keep running them as is, since this seems impossible to find someone to get a straight answer from lol.
 
Ok so how could I do this otherwise with the resistors you speak of? I'm pretty electrical sound and can solder boards and so forth...

I think I may have a constant current driver that would work already though. It's a 660nm all red 12x12 quantum board that its powering now.... I was going to see if it was possible to wire in the IR to cut on with it. But if you believe resistors are easier, walk me through it
I never spoke of using resistors that was Bluter i was the one who suggested using relays
 
I never spoke of using resistors that was Bluter i was the one who suggested using relays
I know you didn't. Sorry if I quoted you, I meant to quote him...

I really do wish he could tell me how to do that. I think im just going to take measurements of what the UV light output is, after the driver, and look for a timer for that rated output
 
I think im just going to order this. It's a DC LED timer, good up to 36w for aquariums. I'm going to time the UV lights as I need with it. I plan to just mount it outside the tent, right after the splitter on the UV side, solder and heatshrink it in. The main plug and switches will remain on and that will leave the IR on its own timer that comes on 15 mins before main light and stays on 15 mins after. The main plug will be powered already via that timer, when I need the UV to come on for a few hours around high noon.

Screenshot_20240103_210447_Chrome.jpg
 
I think im just going to order this. It's a DC LED timer, good up to 36w for aquariums. I'm going to time the UV lights as I need with it. I plan to just mount it outside the tent, right after the splitter on the UV side, solder and heatshrink it in. The main plug and switches will remain on and that will leave the IR on its own timer that comes on 15 mins before main light and stays on 15 mins after. The main plug will be powered already via that timer, when I need the UV to come on for a few hours around high noon.

Screenshot_20240103_210447_Chrome.jpg
That seems like a simple option 👍
it should be standard on the fitting
 
That seems like a simple option 👍
it should be standard on the fitting
Yea I just ordered it... for $10 it's worth avoiding the headache.

I'm not sure what you mean on the fittings, but I know it's just a positive and negative connection on both sides of thay timer, I'm just going to splice it into the UV side
 
I think im just going to order this. It's a DC LED timer, good up to 36w for aquariums. I'm going to time the UV lights as I need with it. I plan to just mount it outside the tent, right after the splitter on the UV side, solder and heatshrink it in. The main plug and switches will remain on and that will leave the IR on its own timer that comes on 15 mins before main light and stays on 15 mins after. The main plug will be powered already via that timer, when I need the UV to come on for a few hours around high noon.

Screenshot_20240103_210447_Chrome.jpg
Here it is if someone is looking for it.
Its rated for 30v ,transformer on lights is 36v ,it may still work only one way to find out though
 
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