How to grow in Coco: Feed schedule

Slowpuffer said:
When my feeding schedule says 15ml a&b base nutes , does that mean 15ml of each, or 15 ml total.
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Both

How many gallons, 15ml is a lot for one gallon. I know that is the recommend amount but you do not need that much.
I have gone with a program I found in another forum. It says to use 200ppm for veg and 400 for flower. I used the 200 for early to mid veg then switched to 300 ppm for late veg, then a week prior to 12/12 I went to 400 ppm, after stretch, at about week 3 I switched to 500 ppm, between weeks 5 and 6 I'll drop it to 300 ppm then two weeks prior to harvest I drop it to 100 ppm The final 10 days I will use pH'ed RO for a good flush.
Here is something that might help you.

LESS IS MORE
200 to 300 ppm of a + b for veg
400 to 500 ppm of a + b for flower


This is based on slightly rough math but is very close to correct.

3ml/gal =.4 ec=200 ppm with around 44 ppm of calcium
4.5ml/gal =.6 ec=300 ppm with around 66 ppm of calcium
6.2ml/gal =.8 ec=400 ppm with around 88 ppm of calcium
7.7ml/gal= 1 ec =500 ppm with around 112 ppm of calcium
9.2ml/gal=1.2 ec=600 ppm with around 135 ppm of calcium

I use Cal/Magic and there is around 75 ppm calcium pre 100 ppm of product.
You need around 150 ppm of calcium alone, so let's say I'm using 200 ppm, 3 ml of A &B, that's only 44 ppm of calcium, I would need an additional 106 ppm to reach the goal of 150. In one ml I get 13.8 ppm of Ca, so I would need 7.5 ml of Cal/Magic.

Calimagic/a+b ratio
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350
100 ppm/300 ppm = 400
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450

5.8 pH

I hope this helps I know it helped me, my plants are healthier looking, not lush. My SCH is a nute beast, as where my WW is not. I don't make different mixes for the two plants so the WW is a little more lush looking.

GR
 
This is my new favorite thread. There is a lot of good info on here and it just keeps building!
 
gr865 said:
Both

How many gallons, 15ml is a lot for one gallon. I know that is the recommend amount but you do not need that much.
I have gone with a program I found in another forum. It says to use 200ppm for veg and 400 for flower. I used the 200 for early to mid veg then switched to 300 ppm for late veg, then a week prior to 12/12 I went to 400 ppm, after stretch, at about week 3 I switched to 500 ppm, between weeks 5 and 6 I'll drop it to 300 ppm then two weeks prior to harvest I drop it to 100 ppm The final 10 days I will use pH'ed RO for a good flush.
Here is something that might help you.

LESS IS MORE
200 to 300 ppm of a + b for veg
400 to 500 ppm of a + b for flower


This is based on slightly rough math but is very close to correct.

3ml/gal =.4 ec=200 ppm with around 44 ppm of calcium
4.5ml/gal =.6 ec=300 ppm with around 66 ppm of calcium
6.2ml/gal =.8 ec=400 ppm with around 88 ppm of calcium
7.7ml/gal= 1 ec =500 ppm with around 112 ppm of calcium
9.2ml/gal=1.2 ec=600 ppm with around 135 ppm of calcium

I use Cal/Magic and there is around 75 ppm calcium pre 100 ppm of product.
You need around 150 ppm of calcium alone, so let's say I'm using 200 ppm, 3 ml of A &B, that's only 44 ppm of calcium, I would need an additional 106 ppm to reach the goal of 150. In one ml I get 13.8 ppm of Ca, so I would need 7.5 ml of Cal/Magic.

Calimagic/a+b ratio
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350
100 ppm/300 ppm = 400
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450

5.8 pH

I hope this helps I know it helped me, my plants are healthier looking, not lush. My SCH is a nute beast, as where my WW is not. I don't make different mixes for the two plants so the WW is a little more lush looking.

GR
Click to expand...
gr865,
Thanks for the get back !! Cult. has told me his ratios for nutes. I'm just wondering why the bottles for my A & B base nutes say use 15ml per gal, each and their feeding schedule for coco says a & b- 20ml per gal.. I read this as 10ml per gal. . So someone is confused at Complete Hydroponic brand. My teacher, Cultivator, put me on a more favorable feeding schedule, last week. I was way over his values !! Sorry Cult. !! This is my 1st. adventure in coco or hydroponics, and I must say, these are the most robust, vigorous budding plants I have grown. And I been growing these same 4 strains for like two yrs. now, in different mixes. I had been grossly over feeding them, till Cult. reined me in, but they're growing like fast & furious, now that I've put them on a diet, we'll see what develops !!
And again gr865,:thanks: !!
 
the key is to always go by your ppm/ec and not what bottle advises. if you were to use 4ml/l of AN MGB it would probs kill plants. ridiculously over strength.

in coco on most strains for veg ppm would be in the 600ppm range up to around 750 for bigger plants. and in flower around 1000ppms.

but it matters what additives and water quality is and what the environment of the grow room is also. you can look at plants and see their needs as you get more experienced. just make sure attention is paid to the rootzone as that is what will give bumper results.

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Cultivator said:
the key is to always go by your ppm/ec and not what bottle advises. if you were to use 4ml/l of AN MGB it would probs kill plants. ridiculously over strength.

in coco on most strains for veg ppm would be in the 600ppm range up to around 750 for bigger plants. and in flower around 1000ppms.

but it matters what additives and water quality is and what the environment of the grow room is also. you can look at plants and see their needs as you get more experienced. just make sure attention is paid to the rootzone as that is what will give bumper results.

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Click to expand...


You are so right on the do not go by what the bottle says, you will end up with burnt leaves, the Claw and over unhealthy plants. Green is good but deep green almost black is not good.

With a drip feed, you can go lower ppm's but those numbers you have are fairly standard. You must keep the Cal and mag in line so reduced rates means you may have to add those back in to the mix. And I agree 100% that you build your root system to get optimal results.

GR
 
hey there cult, i need help in identifying my current grow issue. i'm thinking phosphorous deficiency, but need more input. seems to be affecting the bottom leaves. the leaves are also very weak, i can pull them right off (at least the ones that are affected).

fed as follow:

canna coco a & b
cal mag
ph 5.8 - 6.0
ppm 900-1000
tap water is 270

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Hi Slugzer I'm new to growing and I have the same issue, which only started a day or two ago, the only thing that I had changed was the strength of my nutrient/Cal-Mg mix from 500ppm - 740 In rainwater at 64ppm in coco, pH 5.8. I'm hoping it just nutrient burn as I'll just take them down, anything else and I'll need help.


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yup, they seemed great just until recently. kinda lost now. comparing my issue to pictures found on google, it seems to be a phosphorus deficiency. however, i'm new to coco so will need some expert advise.
 
change your base nute. canna coco is notorious for giving this problem. coco with ionic coco bloom if you can get it. simple 1 part nute that is cheap and will pull plants back around. or use advanced nutes 3 part ph perfect.



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Cultivator said:
change your base nute. canna coco is notorious for giving this problem. coco with ionic coco bloom if you can get it. simple 1 part nute that is cheap and will pull plants back around. or use advanced nutes 3 part ph perfect.



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What do you suggest as the better base nute? Ionic or the 3 part AN? Currently taken you advice and using GMB Voodoo Juice Great white and super thrive.


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i like ionic for flower and AN for veg. either is good.

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Bionuclear said:
Hi Slugzer I'm new to growing and I have the same issue, which only started a day or two ago, the only thing that I had changed was the strength of my nutrient/Cal-Mg mix from 500ppm - 740 In rainwater at 64ppm in coco, pH 5.8. I'm hoping it just nutrient burn as I'll just take them down, anything else and I'll need help.


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I spoke to the folks at Canna, told them I was using rain water (6ppm) or RO (34 ppm), as my tap is very bad. They recommended adding tap water to either one of those to raise the ppm to 120 ppm and use that as my starting point.

I use GH Cal/Magic, it raises my ppm around 20 ppm/ml. If you look at my post #122 it has a breakdown. I use this as a guide but adjust it according to how the plants are responding. The numbers are solid.

GR
 
if you adding calmag first bring it up to 150ppm then add base. canna base nutes arent great.

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Cultivator said:
Put them in small pots and give them 50ml each. No more. You want to damp the medium but if you saturate it you will slow root development for sure. Take my advice and grab some great white mycorrhizae, not 1 person ive told to use it has stopped using it once they started.


Also by measuring your EC/PPM value you can really push the plants and time subtle changes.

Pud Coco is no more difficult than soil. Just get a quality EC meter and PH pen. These are essential tools for mixing nutes and diagnosing possible problems.

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Hey about the great white mycorrhizae, can it be used in coco/perlite hempy buckets?


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yes it can be used in anything other than aeroponics really.

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id treat hempys the way i would any coco grow. the great white is best used sprinkled into the medium on transplant but it can be watered in also. 1 scoop per gallon to give a good starting dose then 1 scoop per 20litres every couple weeks until week 3 flower.

i like buddhas tree pk and advanced metaboost but any quality boost will suffice. bloombastic or plagron green sensation is good too. good boosts arent cheap but give great results.

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