How not to be a salt farmer or a wasteful grower tips

Reminder for myself

All harvested detritus has been decided between worm bins, compost, gardens, and for cooking new.
Still need to figure out my ratios for everything to start next run based on tests planned.
Buddha’s Sister came in so need to prep area for her (either in with KK or separate) think I want to do one of her in scrog indoors at least and start at least two early clones to transition outdoors in may timeframe- let her veg at least 5 months indoors first.
Going to use bill’s layering method on at least half with reduced amendments to prove out my crispy theory or at least learn from it.
Remember to follow standard practices with training and potting since we’ve already shown pretty good results can be had without all the additions and improvements requiring extra cash and effort…
 
Main thoughts for testing include reducing or at least maintaining laziness level as much as possible, reducing input requirements for feeding, and validating that lst, scrog and other stuff I typically do does improve yields overall. I will never try to prove overall quality vs any other methods beyond saying try for yourself because I don’t have the capacity or data to say so other than what I’ve already shared many times over. In short, I’m targeting a high brix healthy plant in recyclable soil using simplest and most cost effective methods possible. That’s it in a nutshell and if the layering method, fish ferts and feeding can be honed in I believe I can get there, especially with all I’ve been observing as of late. If I’m being honest with myself I’m pretty sure I will need to leverage some bottled organic to get there, but with all of us testing I’m sure we could even avoid that.
 
anitl said:
How can I prevent salt buildup when growing cannabis and use nutrients and water more efficiently?
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If you use salt based fertilizers then you want to have some runoff to wash out some of the salts. Honestly, I've gone through an entire run with salt based fertilizers without having runoff to remove some of the salts and I haven't seen any issues. If you're using salt based fertilizers and you're soil alkalinity is high then you're probably overfeeding them.

If you want to avoid dealing with that and go water only with the occasional top dress then you can go with organic farming.
 
Trump said:
If you use salt based fertilizers then you want to have some runoff to wash out some of the salts. Honestly, I've gone through an entire run with salt based fertilizers without having runoff to remove some of the salts and I haven't seen any issues. If you're using salt based fertilizers and you're soil alkalinity is high then you're probably overfeeding them.

If you want to avoid dealing with that and go water only with the occasional top dress then you can go with organic farming.
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Thanks for the advice! I'm curious, how often do you top dress when growing organically? And have you noticed any difference in plant growth and quality compared to using salt-based fertilizers?
 
You're probably asking the wrong person that question. I'm not a big proponent of indoor organics. Not that it isn't good but to develop it for indoor growing, IMO, is fruitless. It takes too long to truly develop the soil to be organic. Organics means that the biomass breakdown will support all the plants nutritional needs. To get to that point that you've developed the soil to have a microbial and fungal community that can fully support your plant takes a long time. Way longer than the time the plants spend in the pot. For outdoor I would do it wholeheartedly but not for indoor.

To your question, you usually do a top dress after week 5 - 6 when the soil has been depleted of nutrients. Even though most of the cannabis soils will claim to be organic they aren't really as they've been mechanically amended and not naturally amended through biomass breakdown.

I've done a few "organic" grows and not noticed a difference in either.

While the way that they are derived is different, organic and synthetic nutrient ions present the same so there is no real difference between the two at the molecular level. The plant can't discern which is which.
 
I basically agree with everything Trump said except that I do organic both indoor and out. While it does take time to develop soil etc there are shortcuts like using organic from a bottle to start while your getting your compost, worm bins, etc developed. Go back and review the first few pages or so to get the gist of how I did/do it. ☮️
 
micheljones01 said:
Avoid becoming a "salt farmer" by using sustainable practices that reduce soil salinity and conserve resources. Focus on efficient water management and nutrient use to prevent waste and promote healthy crop growth.
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Welcome to 420Magazine @micheljones01 :welcome:
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stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
Sorry for absence, I’m basically in Lala land doing all my testing and prepping to take a short trip then prepping to make concentrate when I get back etc. I don’t have much to update other than that crispy and kk are not chopped yet and everything else is drying or in grove. All is well and will be updating a lot in a month or two but not so much until indoor is rolling with Buddha. I’ll be watching to answer any responses as usual…
 
Getting ready to leave for trip to FL Monday so I weighed out the momma and clones.
Momma came in at 296g or about 10.6oz
Clones came in at 369g or about 13oz for all 3.
I’ll weigh the others when I return from trip. Last 2 crispy and kk got chopped today.
 
Got to thinking that these grove bags are working great and I will definitely continue to use them. Also got to thinking that I still have around 30 surplus humidipaks both 58 and 62%. If the bags work as well as they do, why can’t I continue to use mason jars with humidipaks from the get go and not burp? Gonna give it a try with some unless anyone has a compelling reason that would fail or has had it fail for them…..
 
budnoob3 said:
Got to thinking that these grove bags are working great and I will definitely continue to use them. Also got to thinking that I still have around 30 surplus humidipaks both 58 and 62%. If the bags work as well as they do, why can’t I continue to use mason jars with humidipaks from the get go and not burp? Gonna give it a try with some unless anyone has a compelling reason that would fail or has had it fail for them…..
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Never tried them. “ humidipacks “
I thought grove bags were self regulating so we didn’t need to add humidipacks.
I have a 1/4 pound oof Apple Betty in a 5 pound grove bag for a year.
It’s sitting at 59% rh.
Nothing has been done to it but opened occasionally to take some out.
Let me know if you see a difference.
Have a safe trip my friend.
Come back in one piece please. :Namaste:
Don’t know if I’d want to be in Florida for the election. :oops:




Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
Bill284 said:
Never tried them.
I thought they were self regulating so we didn’t need to add humidapacks.
I have a 1/4 pound oof Apple Betty in a 5 pound grove bag for a year.
It’s sitting at 59% rh.
Nothing has been done to it but opened occasionally to take some out.
Let me know if you see a difference.
Have a safe trip my friend.
Come back in one piece please. :Namaste:
Don’t know if I’d want to be in Florida for the election. :oops:




Stay safe
Bill284 😎
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You don’t in grove, I was referring to trying to do same in jars with humidipak and not burp at all. I’m guessing it will be the same enabling me to have same result with my jars so I won’t have to throw away 300 or so 32 oz obfuscated and clear mason jars wrapped in light blocking material and tape ….
Almost from the get go I started using humidipaks but only after the burping and 6 weeks of cure time. Hoping to prove I’ve been a complete dumb ass all that time. And thanks, we have family down there with lots of hunting gear so we should be fine as long as family doesn’t shoot us themselves :)
 
budnoob3 said:
You don’t in grove, I was referring to trying to do same in jars with humidipak and not burp at all. I’m guessing it will be the same enabling me to have same result with my jars so I won’t have to throw away 300 or so 32 oz obfuscated and clear mason jars wrapped in light blocking material and tape ….
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My apologies I misunderstood :Namaste:



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
Bill284 said:
My apologies I misunderstood :Namaste:



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
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No worries, I’m nearly 100% certain that it helped clarify msg for at least 75% of folks that will see it, especially the baked crew :)
 
Random thought, I like to put raw honey in a jar with garlic and burp just like we do with mason jars for curing weed the old fashioned way. I will eat a clove with tsp honey daily as a natural antibiotic. Has definitely helped me over the years. Was shared with me by someone that had a book on ancient remedies which I’ve never been smart enough to pick up myself but now that I’m thinking about it I’m going to search for it.
 
budnoob3 said:
Got to thinking that these grove bags are working great and I will definitely continue to use them. Also got to thinking that I still have around 30 surplus humidipaks both 58 and 62%. If the bags work as well as they do, why can’t I continue to use mason jars with humidipaks from the get go and not burp? Gonna give it a try with some unless anyone has a compelling reason that would fail or has had it fail for them…..
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The Grove bags have a built in air exchange function which is critical to the early stages of the cure as the microbes that do the work need to breathe. They take in oxygen and expel CO2 so the air needs to be exchanged to keep them alive. As the cure goes on it becomes less important.

But, with glass jars and no burping you probably won't get a great result. Interesting experiment though, for sure.

budnoob3 said:
Was shared with me by someone that had a book on ancient remedies which I’ve never been smart enough to pick up myself but now that I’m thinking about it I’m going to search for it.
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Start with one on coconut oil like "Coconut Oil, The World's Most Powerful Superfood" by Dr. Bruce Fife.

CO is anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-microbial, etc. It is one of the few MCT's (medium chain triglyceride) which is converted to ketones by the liver and is an alternate source of energy to glucose for the body and the preferred food for the brain.
 
Let’s start the training argument as well :) I’ve already said many times I prefer lst for everything and scrog with lst for indoor. You can probably compare my methods to BDSM light minus the ball gags, electrodes and heavy whipping. All pretty standard bending, tying, and some topping. Here’s the thing that differs for me; when it comes to topping (never with a male in any scenario) I never top the main anymore for mostly unfounded or unproven reasons other than the feeling that my mains should never be compromised so I just top the periphery branches above 3rd node or so starting after I have at least six nodes in height or so to bring on the bushiness and more colas. That has not been shown yet in thread so don’t go back to find more references. That will be shown on next indoor run. You might say why is this a pita and/or why is it worth it to me. It’s a pita to manage main height being the thickest of the branches yet there’s never a more robust cola than the main or those produced by it in my experience. Hopefully I’ll be able to demonstrate that successfully for everyone.
 
Azimuth said:
The Grove bags have a built in air exchange function which is critical to the early stages of the cure as the microbes that do the work need to breathe. They take in oxygen and expel CO2 so the air needs to be exchanged to keep them alive. As the cure goes on it becomes less important.

But, with glass jars and no burping you probably won't get a great result. Interesting experiment though, for sure.


Start with one on coconut oil like "Coconut Oil, The World's Most Powerful Superfood" by Dr. Bruce Fife.

CO is anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-microbial, etc. It is one of the few MCT's (medium chain triglyceride) which is converted to ketones by the liver and is an alternate source of energy to glucose for the body and the preferred food for the brain.
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Agreed, but I’m really curious to see if the humidipaks handle some of that exchange as well on their own. I don’t see any areas that could promote air exchange on the grove bags themselves but could be wrong hence why I want to test with at least one jar 75% full with a humidipak. We shall see, I’ll still be checking every day as if I was burping and abandon at first sign of trouble if any. My theory is that as long as I don’t fill more than 75% there is enough air available for the humidipak to do its thing for at least 6 weeks.
 
budnoob3 said:
Let’s start the training argument as well :) I’ve already said many times I prefer lst for everything and scrog with lst for indoor. You can probably compare my methods to BDSM light minus the ball gags, electrodes and heavy whipping. All pretty standard bending, tying, and some topping. Here’s the thing that differs for me; when it comes to topping (never with a male in any scenario) I never top the main anymore for mostly unfounded or unproven reasons other than the feeling that my mains should never be compromised so I just top the periphery branches above 3rd node or so starting after I have at least six nodes in height or so to bring on the bushiness and more colas. That has not been shown yet in thread so don’t go back to find more references. That will be shown on next indoor run. You might say why is this a pita and/or why is it worth it to me. It’s a pita to manage main height being the thickest of the branches yet there’s never a more robust cola than the main or those produced by it in my experience. Hopefully I’ll be able to demonstrate that successfully for everyone.
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I can't wait to see you do indoor! ❤️
 
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