High Brix

[Doc Bud]

That carbonized limestone is some cool stuff. Keeps the calcium from sinking below the root zone right? calcium mixed with hydrogen?

From the manufacturer:

Carbonized Limestone is a new offering from International Ag Labs. This is a new product made exclusively by Calcium Products, Inc. Carbonized Limestone is finely ground high calcium lime stone mixed with dry carbons (humates), dry carbohydrate, and liquid humate then pelletized.

Carbonized Limestone is currently an exclusive product only available through International Ag Labs and through our Fertilizer Brokerage. We're pleased to offer this product for fall fertilization. Production is currently available.

Carbonized Limestone is a pelletized product and it will be easy to use in a fertilizer spreader. We've seen some very good results by using this pelletized product. We've seen some very dramatic changes in the plants and in the productivity of the fields when used. We're very excited about Carbonized Limestone because we feel this is a premium product; it gets results with raising your calcium levels.
Why “Carbonize” Lime?

Calcium is heavy, so when it's put out in the soil, it has a tendency to sink down. Because it sinks, it'll soon go out of the root zone. Carbon, on the other hand, has a tendency to float in the soil and move up. So when we “carbonize” the limestone we end up putting both of these in each other's way, so the limestone has a hard time going down and the carbon is slowed in its tendency to go up. In effect then, the bacteria have more time to digest and break down that limestone, increasing its availability to plants.

The “carbonization” of the lime adds to the quality, and increase the availability of calcium. The limestone in Carbonized Limestone is very high quality, nearly pure, 38% calcium, it's very finely ground, to a size of about 100-200 mesh or finer. It's actually the dust that's sucked out of the air and then pelletized. So it's one of the best limestone products out there

 

[ajagunle]

I apologise, I don’t think my fingers fully understood what I was saying. You Guys are the pioneers of the propagation of The Knowledge. Certainly my first and only encounter with High Brix has been through this forum, as someone else has previously commented, searching for High Brix, brings me straight back to you, my font of all High Brix knowledge. If the agricultural industries, in my neck-of-the-woods, are practicing the enlightened Arts, they certainly don’t want me to know.

It is for your ‘starting that snowball’ in my little World that I am applauding you, and your journals!

 

[Doc Bud]

I apologise, I don’t think my fingers fully understood what I was saying. You Guys are the pioneers of the propagation of The Knowledge. Certainly my first and only encounter with High Brix has been through this forum, as someone else has previously commented, searching for High Brix, brings me straight back to you, my font of all High Brix knowledge. If the agricultural industries, in my neck-of-the-woods, are practicing the enlightened Arts, they certainly don’t want anyone to know.

It is for your ‘starting that snowball’ in my little World that I am applauding you, and your journals!

I sure hope I didn't kill my plants today! I transplanted 3 Jack Herer and watered them in with a soil drench and root innoculent as instructed.....but I used enough drench for 96 sq ft........oops.

We shall see. Everything else is going fantastic.

 

[Prfectlysober]

I've been lucky to catch your grow journals from the start a couple of times now! They are truly amazing, and am in for the ride. I just put my plants into flowering a week ago as well, far less problems than my first harvest (thanks to all the knowledge here on 420 ). These high brix grows interest me a lot as I grow for 100% for myself, so its all about the quality in my personal grow. Cant really see how this way of growing WOULDN'T taste better, feel better, and give a more incredible high. Can't wait to see em flower doc!

 

[Doc Bud]

I've been lucky to catch your grow journals from the start a couple of times now! They are truly amazing, and am in for the ride. I just put my plants into flowering a week ago as well, far less problems than my first harvest (thanks to all the knowledge here on 420 ). These high brix grows interest me a lot as I grow for 100% for myself, so its all about the quality in my personal grow. Cant really see how this way of growing WOULDN'T taste better, feel better, and give a more incredible high. Can't wait to see em flower doc!

That makes two of us! I grow for a small group of people, including myself, my wife and another family member. Quality is the ONLY thing I care about! Although good yields definitely do not bother me, I'd rather grow 6 grams of something amazing than 6 ounces of something that's only so-so.

So far, this grow is my best yet. We'll see how things progress from here, but I'm always nervous when doing something so different from the norm.

For example, the nutrient drench I'm to give them once a month has an NPK of 5-0-0-11Ca. Yes, the P,K,Mg and all the rest is in the soil, but it's still kinda strange feeding them something like that.

However, I can't argue with the results so far.....so I'll trust the experts and do exactly what I'm supposed to do, to the best of my ability and we'll see how it all turns out!

 

[shizznizzle]

That makes two of us! I grow for a small group of people, including myself, my wife and another family member. Quality is the ONLY thing I care about! Although good yields definitely do not bother me, I'd rather grow 6 grams of something amazing than 6 ounces of something that's only so-so.

So far, this grow is my best yet. We'll see how things progress from here, but I'm always nervous when doing something so different from the norm.

For example, the nutrient drench I'm to give them once a month has an NPK of 5-0-0-11Ca. Yes, the P,K,Mg and all the rest is in the soil, but it's still kinda strange feeding them something like that.

However, I can't argue with the results so far.....so I'll trust the experts and do exactly what I'm supposed to do, to the best of my ability and we'll see how it all turns out!

Well your previous journals are a testament to that ability....I have little doubt

 

[Doc Bud]

Well your previous journals are a testament to that ability....I have little doubt

I think this is going to work well too.....but at some point I'm going to have to stop evolving for a while and get good at this stuff. I think that point is right now, as I've finally got perfect soil, perfect environment and all the sprays, drenches, and amendments I need.

The questions I have are this:

1.)Are the High Brix buds going to drastically differ in structure from the buds we are used to getting?
2.)Is growing the plants to their genetic potential going to produce a better end product or is growing them "wrong" going to give us more of what we want?

Hopefully I'll be able to answer these questions soon. Also, the greenhouse crop is fully High Brix....Colombian all the way baby. Stay tuned....

 

[Scop]

I'm tuned!!

 

[Doc Bud]

I'm tuned!!

Same thing happening here bro! I just had the pleasure of smoking some Sour D grown by my hydro friend. The leaves on his OG meausure 15 brix, which is pretty impressive.....anyways, I digress; I'm just baked right now, this stuff is very potent. So yeah, I'm tuned as well.

 

[my whey]

hello!!

first time poster here. after reading your threads and being inspired by them, ive decided to begin renouncing my heavy emphasis to the n the p and the k and focus on research on this particular subject you are chronicling Putting a heavy emphasis on microsiemens readings of above 400 consistently, and minerals ofcourse . thank you for putting so much effort in and despite being "tuned" as you put it, you religiously reply to your threads. so often you find threads that are incomplete and have sunken to the depths of the server abyss never to resurface again. However your threads are worth their weight in gold! Himalayan gold, of course!

i have a few questions after reading your post # 25 doc.but i will ask one now. where you mentioned you are about quality over quantity, i wish to seek out my own contacts similar in nature to your ag labs company, but more specific to my location to research a grouping of products, different than yours, but similar in nature, that i could marry together and have something like what your doing. what was the particular "vernacular" or "jargon" that you used when discussing your plan? i mentioned this theory to my local hydro dealer. he was baffled by what i was telling him. The only thing he said was most 6-7-3 ferts like you had said already in this thread are close to having the right amendments, but not the right ratios.

he suggested a tomato fert like a 5-7-4. but from my knowledge using that particular type of speak, for that particular determinate annual, wont suffice in this instance, because tomaters HATE ammonium nitrate, which is needed for the second 1/2 of our season.



whats a forum member to do in this kind of a scenario?


5 star thread.

 

[Doc Bud]

hello!!

first time poster here. after reading your threads and being inspired by them, ive decided to begin renouncing my heavy emphasis to the n the p and the k and focus on research on this particular subject you are chronicling Putting a heavy emphasis on microsiemens readings of above 400 consistently, and minerals ofcourse . thank you for putting so much effort in and despite being "tuned" as you put it, you religiously reply to your threads. so often you find threads that are incomplete and have sunken to the depths of the server abyss never to resurface again. However your threads are worth their weight in gold! Himalayan gold, of course!

i have a few questions after reading your post # 25 doc.but i will ask one now. where you mentioned you are about quality over quantity, i wish to seek out my own contacts similar in nature to your ag labs company, but more specific to my location to research a grouping of products, different than yours, but similar in nature, that i could marry together and have something like what your doing. what was the particular "vernacular" or "jargon" that you used when discussing your plan? i mentioned this theory to my local hydro dealer. he was baffled by what i was telling him. The only thing he said was most 6-7-3 ferts like you had said already in this thread are close to having the right amendments, but not the right ratios.

he suggested a tomato fert like a 5-7-4. but from my knowledge using that particular type of speak, for that particular determinate annual, wont suffice in this instance, because tomaters HATE ammonium nitrate, which is needed for the second 1/2 of our season.



whats a forum member to do in this kind of a scenario?


5 star thread.

I have had several conversations with the folks at IAL and their fertilizer brokerage. BTW, industrial fertilizer brokers have prices 10-20 times lower than hydro shops.....but I digress.

There are basically two types of crops, with very few exceptions:

1.)Vegetative crops, where leaves are the goal: Kale, Spinach, Lettuce, etc.
2.)Reproductive crops, where fruit, seeds or flowers is the goal.

The soil is essentially the same, but the nutrient drenches and especially the foliar sprays are different depending on the crop. You can royally mess up your grow by using the wrong foliar sprays! Remember, these sprays I'm using aren't like spraying CalMag from the hydro shop....these things are powerful and can really make big changes....overnight.

So, I discussed growing vegetables and hops with the folks. Hops are almost identical in needs to our crop.

Pay no attention to NPK! The way to achieve high brix is really quite simple:

1.)Obtain soil test, amend as instructed.
2.)Obtain the proper drenches and foliar sprays recommended in the soil test
3.)Follow directions

This can all be fine tuned by testing soil energy and feeding appropriately when ERGs drop below 200 (instead of going off a calendar) and by testing brix of leaves after spraying, etc.

So, bottom line is that if you feed the plants salts, they'll burn, but if the microbes do all the feeding, the plants will be super healthy. Calcium is the most important mineral and phosphorus is the most important major element as far as limiting factors in achieving High Brix. Mineralizing the soil and maintaining healthy biota is the key to all of this.

It starts with a soil test. You can't skip it!

 

[shizznizzle]

Hey docbud, my question for you if you do not mind is, will there be regional differences in packaged soil? Like would my promix I buy have different readings than yours? If so then does that mean that every time you buy promix you must test it? About to start getting my ingredients together for the hi brix I want to try next go around. Thank you for all the fabulous information and the thoughtful way it is presented.

 

[Doc Bud]

Hey docbud, my question for you if you do not mind is, will there be regional differences in packaged soil? Like would my promix I buy have different readings than yours? If so then does that mean that every time you buy promix you must test it? About to start getting my ingredients together for the hi brix I want to try next go around. Thank you for all the fabulous information and the thoughtful way it is presented.

One bag of ProMix HP is going to be pretty much the same as another. It only has 4 ingredients; Peat, dolomite, limestone, beneficials.

One test is enough, but if you're reusing the soil, as I will be, a test after one cycle and before the next one is in order. Most likely, the soil will need much less in the way of amendments and the drench could also be adjusted as needed.

Once you get into a routine, after a handful of cycles, the tests can be eliminated barring other factors. Brix levels will tell you if you're on the right track or not.

Of course, all of this PRESUMES that Cannabis buds are best formed in a high brix environment. It could very well turn out that the best buds (or at least the ones that people seem to think are the best) come from tortured, poorly fed plants. I know that sounds crazy in a way, but what are raisins if not just grapes that were grown by a lazy-ass vinedresser? It could very well turn out that our plants like to be fed "all wrong" in order to stress them out and produce a different, but desireable kind of flower!!!

Probably not....but that possibility must be entertained. I suggest watching how this one turns out and making your plans afterwards!

 

[my whey]

It starts with a soil test. You can't skip it!

skip i did not!

i have a soil report from a major university. Ive been instructed its not thorough enough from ag professionals though! as it does not have recommendations on amendments. i actually have 3. one for soil, two for two different varieties of compost. VERY surprised the n on al 3 is less than 1 %. and the calcium content you spoke of is at 38%. as i understand it one needs to have an 8:1 ratio of CA:MG

i attribute the low numbers to the fact most companies let their stuff heat up to be way too hot, killing all nutrients inside.

id like to post results, but doesnt seem like its possible

 

[Doc Bud]

skip i did not!

i have a soil report from a major university. ive been instructed its not thorough enough from ag professionals though! as it does not have recommendations on amendments. i actually have 3. one for my master nursery gold soil and my bumper crop compost, as well as a lobster based compost. from maine.

id like to post results, but doesnt seem like its possible.

Your test is most likely useless. Most universities, including my local one, are proponents of modern farming techniques, IE chemical ferts, sterile soil, GM crops, pesticides, etc.

They use a strong acid soil test which looks for total NPK amounts and pH only. They do not say anything about ratios, calcium availability, etc.

Compost is another issue altogether! While it can and does add organic matter and microbial action to the soil, it is also way too high in potassium to achieve high brix. My soil report specifically mentions NOT TO USE compost, manure, etc.

If you want High Brix, you must get a soil test from a lab that specializes in High Brix. The only one I'm familiar with is International Ag Labs. There are probably others, but IAL is tried, tested and true. They also custom blend the broadcasts specifically for you and your situation.

I've mentioned all this many times in my journals, but for those joining for the first time, here's the dope:
copied from Highbrixgardens.com

Get A Roadmap

A road map is an indispensable requirement when starting a journey to an unfamiliar destination. The first thing it helps us determine is where our starting point is. Once we know our starting point and our final destination the road map helps us plot our course of action needed to get us where we want to go.

On the Path to High Brix our roadmap is the soil test. The soil test is the foundation from which all fertility decisions are referenced. It is our eye into the mysterious world beneath our feet. No other tool comes close to matching the soil test in importance when aiming for high brix.

There are a multitude of different soil testing methods all purporting to be the best but there is only one soil test that really lets you see what you are looking at: the Morgan test. If you don’t believe this try an experiment. Find leading proponents of base saturation testing or testing for fungal and bacterial balancing. Now find out what they say about achieving high brix. Whoops—they don’t say a word about brix. Why? Because the soil test they use doesn’t let them see what they are looking at with enough clarity to produce high brix. Once we have the right soil test we are now ready to take the first action in creating the right environment for our garden plants.

Remineralize and Balance the Soil

In college classes soil has been endlessly classified according to its’ proportion of organic mater, sand, silt, and clay while soil typing assigns names to various soils based on its structure, texture, and other parameters.

In the real world of growing high brix plants none of this matters one hoot. What really matters are things like:

How much calcium is available for the crop to build healthy cells?
Is calcium in correct ratio with magnesium?
Is there sufficient available phosphates in the soil needed to carry other nutrients into the plant and provide the energy transfer within the plant?
Is there a broad-spectrum of trace minerals available to the plant?
How active is the soil biology?
These are the important issues that must be addressed if we are to achieve high brix.

Calcium

Let's start with calcium. Calcium is needed in every healthy cell—no life can survive without it. It takes good microbial activity to make calcium available in the soil. At the same time when soil biology is increasing rapidly they will utilize available calcium—even taking it away from what the plants need. High brix foods are higher in calcium than low brix foods. Consequently it is imperative for available calcium to be addressed when embarking on the Path to High Brix.

Phosphates

Let's move on to phosphates. High brix foods cannot be built with low phosphates—it just doesn’t happen. Dr. Reams said it this way: “Available phosphates determine the sugar content in plants.” High Brix foods are not particularly high in phosphates; rather they are significantly higher in calcium, sugars, and trace minerals. Phosphates are the catalysts that transport nutrients within the plant. Once the nutrients are transported to the correct location the phosphates recycle and again carry more nutrients to the correct location within the plant. Phosphates are the trucker moving nutrients and joining these nutrients to the plant. They are the catalysts of chemical reactions but are not part of the union. When phosphates are low fewer minerals are transported within a plant—hence lower mineral density. Phosphates also play a major role as the energy source in the Krebs cycle. This is just a fancy way of saying that phosphates help the plant get more energy out of the sunlight, which leads to a greater production of carbohydrates.

Trace minerals

Trace minerals have received a lot of coverage in the health world lately. They are vital and must be in our diet for good health. A few come to mind: selenium, iodine, cobalt, lithium, and vanadium. They all play a role in our health and we know it. Unfortunately most people just aren’t getting enough in their diet because they are not in our foods. Most trace minerals are quite heavy and when foods contain rare earth minerals they weigh more than low brix foods. In other words if two apples of differing weights are the same size the heavier apple will be the most nutritious because it contains more minerals. So how do we get trace minerals into our foods? Obviously the first thing we have to do is apply them to the soil. Since trace minerals are so dense uptake also requires high levels of calcium and phosphates in our plants.

Potassium, nitrogen and sulfur

Other important nutrients to consider when remineralizing soil include potassium, nitrogen, and sulfur. Potassium plays a key role in plant health and yield but its use in recent times has been excessive to the detriment of calcium availability. Nitrogen, like potassium, has also been over used and rarely understood. Sulfur, in the form of sulfates, is indispensable for proper protein formation within plants.

Microbiology

Soil Remineralization is the best time to add microbiology. By combining biology with rock powders, soil amendments, and fertilizers, the soil has greater digestive capacity to make the minerals available for plant uptake. In the High Brix Garden program soil remineralization is accomplished by the annual broadcast of nutrients that is custom formulated according to the results of the soil test.

Achieving Balance

An important consideration in growing high brix is to achieve balance. Excesses and deficiencies are equally debilitating. Deficiencies are, however, much easier to overcome. Many gardeners have so imbalanced their soil with excessive phosphorous and potassium from manure or compost that their soil is virtually ruined for growing high brix. By following the roadmap of the soil test we can avoid the extremes while supplying the missing nutrients. Once we have begun soil remineralization, we need to follow it up with an equally vital step ...







Create and Maintain Soil Energy

Energy in the soil is measured by electrical conductance. The unit of measurement is microSiemens (mS) per centimeter on a conductivity meter. On the soil test electrical conductance is shown as ERGS. This is an acronym, given by Dr. Reams, which stands for Energy Released per Gram per Second.

The governor for electrical conductance in soils is humus. When humus levels are high the Ergs reading is stabilized and does not “climb the highest peak and then plunge to the deepest valley.” When striving for high brix plants on soils with low humus levels it is important to keep the Ergs up. As the growing season progresses plants draw heavily on soil reserves and the Ergs reading drops. In other words the soluble nutrients in the soil are taken up by the plants, which results in a decrease of electrical conductance in soils. Low soil energy causes plant growth to slow way down.

Monthly Nutrient Drench

A monthly nutrient drench increases the soil’s electrical conductance and thereby keeps plants growing at optimum rates. This is especially important when it has been raining heavily and the soil solution is already diluted from the additional water in the soil. The nutrient drenches used in the High Brix Garden Program includes Perk-Up!, WildCat, OND, ErgsBlaster, and DroughtBuster. Nutrient drenches are used at the rate of 1 quart per 1,000 square feet mixed with 30 gallons of water and applied at the root level of plants. By regularly applying small doses of nutrient drenches we insure a steady growth of plants because soil energy is being maintained. The next step to achieve high brix is to …

Foliar Feed Regularly

Have you ever used an old-fashioned hand pump to draw out water from the ground? The first thing it needs is some water poured down the shaft followed by vigorous pumping on the handle. It only takes a small amount of water to “prime the pump.”

Foliar feeding is like priming the pump on a growing plant. A prerequisite prior to foliar feeding is to ensure adequate minerals and biology have been added to the soil. When this is coupled with regular nutrient drenches to keep the soil energy at its peak, the plant is now ready to be “primed,” via foliar feeding, for optimum production.

Lets take a closer look at what happens when a foliar spray is applied to plant leaves. A well-made foliar spray is a dilute nutrient solution. If properly constructed it will pas through the leaf surface and increase the photosynthetic capability of the plant. In other words it will allow the plant to take in more energy from the sun. The difficulty is in properly constructing the foliar spray. It is very important to fully understand what effects specific nutrients have on plants. The wrong foliar spray at the wrong time can create a tremendous yield decline. Here is a very important caution when foliar spraying: Either know what you are doing or work with a consultant who does.

When a foliar program is properly applied the mineral density within the plant is increased, as are the carbohydrates or plant sugars. This increase of plant sugars and minerals are sent to the roots of the plants, some of which are excreted out of the roots as plant exudates. This increase of plant root exudates, caused by the foliar spray, creates a ready food supply for the bacteria that live symbiotically on the plant roots. Bacteria respond to this increased food supply by making more nutrients in the soil available to the plant. These minerals are picked up by the roots and sent to the aerial part of the plant. This process explains how a foliar spray can increase brix readings.

In addition to increasing nutrient density, a foliar spray is a command to a plant’s physiology. A foliar spray can either push a plant toward vegetative production i.e. growth of leaves, stems, and stalk or it can push a plant toward reproduction i.e. promotion of blossoms, flowers, and fruit set.

Systematic foliar spraying will exhibit a cumulative affect of increasing yield along with mineral density and plant sugars. In the High Brix Garden program we emphasize a weekly foliar spray of either BrixBlaster or Qualify! beginning one month after transplanting or emergence. BrixBlaster is used for crops making reproductive growth such as tomatoes, peppers, and sweet corn. Qualify! is used on crops making vegetative growth such as lettuce, kale, and spinach. It can also be used on early growth of crops that will later need BrixBlaster.

The High Brix Garden Program also uses two other foliar sprays: Enthuse and ShowTime. Enthuse is used on a monthly basis or as needed for plant stress. It contains a broad-spectrum of trace minerals, bio stimulants, and single L-amino acids to help plants cope with stress. ShowTime is used once a month or as needed to enhance the visual appearance of plants and to repel noxious insects. This is a great product to use 1 day before you show your garden off to friends and family and you want it looking its best.

The Path to High Brix

In summary the Path to High Brix is really quite simple—just create the right environment for plants to express their full genetic potential. To do this we must have a vision and a roadmap as we do the following 3 steps:

Remineralize and Balance the Soil
Create and Maintain Soil Energy
Foliar Feed Regularly

 

[my whey]

ive seen something like that before, i have something to contribute as well to the party. information like what you posted. thank you so much for the info once again though! never hurts to bring the new blood in with the old.

https://home.roadrunner.com/~krisjohnson/Garden/GardeningforMaximumNutrition.htm

So, I discussed growing vegetables and hops with the folks. Hops are almost identical in needs to our crop.

yes i found this out last night! i researched to the deepest darkest corners the web had to offer, for 3 hours, and came up with that fact. Upon researching the hop biology i learned it is classified in same genus category as our special plants, but wasn't aware it was on a similar feeding schedule. interesting to note.

the fertilizer for a squash or cucumber, vegetable type you had mentioned wouldn't really merit using or acquiring a high p or k foilar fertilizer. as there is no bloom phase. im under the assumption you picked veggies to acquire veg supplements, and the hops for the flower supplements? great idea if that was your plan. very smart of you.

 

[gittergreen]

I think I could move past aestetics, but if this method takes away the flavor and aroma, effects that we all fell in love with, high brix for cannabis might not be very marketable. Just some thoughts and concerns I have been pondering.
I also have a concern about initial start up cost. Thats a lot of sprays and amendments to put together. Will your kit be in reach of all demographics?
I started a mother plant in cooked ffof added the 6-5-3 rock powders Man it turned out great so simple best looking plant I have grown to date and no salts just half assed teas. I cant really afford to get the sprays for them now, but I still think that it will turn out to be better than average cannabis.

Thanks for laying the ground work for us Docbud! plus reps if you can obtain any more LOL.

 

[Doc Bud]

ive seen something like that before, i have something to contribute as well to the party. information like what you posted. thank you so much for the info once again though! never hurts to bring the new blood in with the old.

Gardening for Maximum Nutrition



yes i found this out last night! i researched to the deepest darkest corners the web had to offer, for 3 hours, and came up with that fact. Upon researching the hop biology i learned it is classified in same genus category as our special plants, but wasn't aware it was on a similar feeding schedule. interesting to note.

the fertilizer for a squash or cucumber, vegetable type you had mentioned wouldn't really merit using or acquiring a high p or k foilar fertilizer. as there is no bloom phase. im under the assumption you picked veggies to acquire veg supplements, and the hops for the flower supplements? great idea if that was your plan. very smart of you.

Yep...that pretty much describes the angle of approach I took.

I think I could move past aestetics, but if this method takes away the flavor and aroma, effects that we all fell in love with, high brix for cannabis might not be very marketable. Just some thoughts and concerns I have been pondering.
I also have a concern about initial start up cost. Thats a lot of sprays and amendments to put together. Will your kit be in reach of all demographics?
I started a mother plant in cooked ffof added the 6-5-3 rock powders Man it turned out great so simple best looking plant I have grown to date and no salts just half assed teas. I cant really afford to get the sprays for them now, but I still think that it will turn out to be better than average cannabis.

Thanks for laying the ground work for us Docbud! plus reps if you can obtain any more LOL.

Smell: High Brix buds smell just as strong, but more complex
Taste: flavored steam. Very enjoyable, but sorry....no coughing, throat burn or harsh flavors.
effect: High Brix is much better. Once you try it, you won't go back.
Visual appeal: so far so good, but when I was using Snow Storm Ultra and super soil, the tricomes were larger. They are smaller but more numerous now.

Cost: enough broadcast for 1000 plants 167.00 including shipping. Sprays, refractometer, drenches, extraction tool 253 including shipping.

Total cost of EVERYTHING needed for 1000 plants just under 400 dollars.

Now, let's look at the House and Garden line, or Advanced and compare prices for 1000 plants.....

The thing to remember is that the High Brix people are (mostly growing food. If the cost of nutrients were that high, they couldn't sell their food. But the opposite is true! The quality of the food is high, and the cost for growing it is relatively low....so many of these guys support themselves with market gardens on a single acre!

Lastly, there's everything right and nothing wrong with just mineralizing normal soil. The results will be far better than not....even if the brix isn't as high as it could be.

But I'll withhold anymore judgement until harvest. At this point I'm going to predict a successful harvest....but time will tell!

 

[Doc Bud]

Pics of the old and new.

Lemon Paki and Shaman in the ProMix/Rock n Chicken mix. This mix produced the best results so far. The difference between then and now is that I'm using a more complex version of minerals and I'm not guessing about the soil energy. I hope to beat these flowers this time around.

Also, you can see my new refractometer and vice-grip leaf crusher. One leaf gives enough juice for 2 readings.

I've got a couple more pics that are really good, but there's personal info I have to erase first.

 

[Doc Bud]

this is my favorite pic!