Herbie's Beans - Black Widow And Super Skunk

Ok day 3 of the volunteer mystery strain still looking good nd the others well 4weeks Sunday still no fertilizer im waiting on my amendments to get my bed 💯 they should be here soon, top dress, water in let set for a couple days, planting in there by next week! Then my LED should be showing up after that im going to let the mystery strain catch up a bit before i flower those anyways im in no hurry Plenty in tge stash from falls harvest!✌️

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A QUICK hairdo and ill be putting up some pictures on how i like to start clones my new rooting hormone should be here tomorrow.
Imio Root is a natural alternative to synthetic rooting gels for propagating healthier clones and better transplants. Made of naturally occurring microbes* (fungi and bacteria), Imio Root supports the development and architecture of the root system, reduces transplant shock, and improves vegetative growth. It can be used on a wide variety of plants including, but not limited to, cannabis, tomatoes, roses, grape vines, lavender, begonias and grasses.

The natural production of plant hormones and the symbiotic relationship between microbes and plants provides healthier vegetative growth and ongoing support through flower. Root is shipped as a freeze-dried powder so that the microbes are shelf-stable and protected in transit. Each Root packet contains a plant-based gelling agent (guar-gum) to provide a convenient, dippable gel consistency.

Imio products are developed through extensive research, and have been vetted by University Labs and growers across wide-ranging geographies, cultivation types, and scales. Many synthetic cloning products are carcinogenic, mutagenic, and their use is increasingly restricted. Imio Root offers a better option for people, plants, and our planet.

Imio is committed to sustainability in all that they do. Root will be shipped to you in a compostable pouch, with a glass jar (for 100 cut sizes and above) to mix and store the gel.

Animal free & non toxic

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Here's all the tools I use except for the hormone its not here yet but in the glass is water ph'd to 6.9 i will soak the cuts in there for 15 minutes to hydrate the clone, if the branches were bigger id cut longer than I need then recut them in the water but they are small.
During that time ill get some fungi in the rooter then light mist it with ph'd water 6.9 and mist the soil in the cloner its a deep rooted cloner so they can get something to eat right away after root , then dop it in gel and put it in the rooter cover it and check it every day keep the rooter damp NOT soppin wet! Tgen about a week or so i should have roots,ill be able to rell sooner than that though ✌️

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@Azimuth i learned something today about sulfur you might know this but sulfur levels in your soil has a direct relationship with terpines and their profile so if you're low on sulfer and you notice the smells not quite there and you might think it's curing, it could be we a sulfur deficiency and 1 more fun fact about sulfur it drives your cations in your soil the down fall of using adequate sulfur is it lowers ph and i think they said it raises salt levels also you want a luxury amount of phosphorus in your soil something like rock phosphate or and fish bone meal not necessarily available but in the soil, that what the Bio mass or Mammoth P is for, the bacteria to turn the reserve into available. Research it see what you find out. Phosphorus is the motor that drives the engine. It was a good pod cast today on Pateron and im just trying to pass on the knowledge ✌️
 

Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC)​

Cations are positively charged ions such as calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), sodium (Na+) hydrogen (H+), aluminum (Al3+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+). The capacity of the soil to hold on to these cations called the cation exchange capacity (CEC). These cations are held by the negatively charged clay and organic matter particles in the soil through electrostatic forces (negative soil particles attract the positive cations). The cations on the CEC of the soil particles are easily exchangeable with other cations and as a result, they are plant available. Thus, the CEC of a soil represents the total amount of exchangeable cations that the soil can adsorb.
The cations used by plants in the largest amounts are calcium, magnesium, and potassium. In most soils within humid regions such as in New York, sodium is not present in sufficient quantities to occupy a significant amount of the CEC. However, in dry climates, sodium can occupy an important portion of the CEC. Other cations that can occupy cation exchange sites in New York soils are hydrogen, aluminum, iron and manganese. Cations such as zinc and copper are typically present in the soil in too low a concentration to occupy much of the CEC.

Why do soils have a CEC?​

Soils have a CEC primarily because clay particles and organic matter in the soil tends to be negatively charged. New York soils have silicate clay minerals (clay minerals that contain silica). Each silicate clay particle is made up of individual layers or “sheets”. If the mineral was pure silica and oxygen (silica-oxide more commonly referred to as quartz), the particle would not have any charge. However, clay minerals common in New York agricultural soils, contain aluminum as well as silica. They have a net negative charge because of the substitution of silica (Si4+) by aluminum (Al3+) in the mineral structure of the clay. This replacement of silica by aluminum in the clay mineral’s structure is called isomorphous substitution, and the result is clays with negative surface charge.
Since the soil as a whole does not have electric charge, the negative charge of the clay particles is balanced by the positive charge of the cations in the soil. The negative charges associated with isomorphous substitution are considered permanent, that is, the charges do not change with pH changes.
Figure 1: Substitution of silica by aluminum in soil clay particles causes clays to have a negative charge. Because of this negative charge, the soil can hold on to positively charged cations such as calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+) and potassium (K+).
Organic matter can have a 4 to 50 times higher CEC per given weight than clay. The source of negative charge in organic matter is different from that of clay minerals; the dissociation (separation into smaller units) of organic acids causes a net negative charge in soil organic matter, and again this negative charge is balanced by cations in the soil. Because organic acid dissociation depends on the soil pH, the CEC associated with soil organic matter is called pH-dependent CEC. This means that the actual CEC of the soil will depend on the pH of the soil. Given the same amount and type of organic matter, a neutral soil (pH ~7) will have a higher CEC than a soil with e.g. pH 5, or in other words, the CEC of a soil with pH-dependent charge will increase with an increase in pH.

Units​

The CEC of a soil is expressed in cmolc/kg (centimol positive charge per kg of soil) or meq/100 g (milli-equivalents per 100 grams of soil). Both expressions are numerically identical (10 cmolc/kg = 10 meq/100 g).

Common CEC ranges in New York​

Sandy soils low in organic matter have a very low CEC (less than 3 cmolc/kg) while heavier clay soils or soils high in organic matter generally have a much higher CEC (greater than 20 cmolc/kg). Table 1 gives an estimate of a typical CEC of soils of each of the five soil management groups in New York (see Agronomy Fact Sheet #19: Soil Management Groups, for more detailed descriptions of the five soil management groups).
Table 1: Estimated cation exchange capacity (CEC) of soils typical for New York State agricultural land (modified from: Cornell Field Crops and Soils Handbook, 1987).
SMG* General DescriptionCEC
(cmolc/kg soil)
1Fine-textured soils developed from clayey lake sediments and medium- to fine-textured soils developed from lake sediments.25
2Medium- to fine-textured soils developed from calcareous glacial till, medium-textured to moderately fine-textured soils developed from slightly calcareous glacial till mixed with shale, and medium-textured soils developed in recent alluvium.20
3Moderately coarse textured soil developed from glacial outwash and recent alluvium and medium-textured acid soil developed on glacial till.18
4Coarse- to medium-textured soils formed from glacial till or glacial outwash.16
5Coarse- to very coarse-textured soils formed from gravelly or sandy glacial outwash or glacial lake beach ridges or deltas.12
For New York soils, it is better to measure the CEC rather than use the values reported in Table 1, as the CEC will change with soil pH (i.e. is pH dependent). Soil pH changes can be caused by natural processes, such as decomposition of organic matter and leaching of cations, but also by human actions such as application of acidifying nitrogen fertilizers and/or liming materials. Most laboratories approximate the CEC from regular soil test results. So, the CEC value listed on regular soil test report is the results of a calculation, not an actual measurement. See Agronomy Fact Sheet #23: Estimating CEC from Cornell Soil Test Data, for more details.

Implications​

  • o
    The higher the CEC the more clay or organic matter present in the soil. This usually means that high CEC (clay) soils have a greater water holding capacity than low CEC (sandy) soils.
  • o
    Low CEC soils are more likely to develop potassium and magnesium (and other cation) deficiencies, while high CEC soils are less susceptible to leaching losses of these cations. So, for sandy soils, a large one-time addition of cations e.g. potassium can lead to large leaching losses (soil isn’t able to hold on to the excess K). More frequent additions of smaller amounts are better.
  • o
    The lower the CEC, the faster the soil pH will decrease with time. So, sandy soils need to be limed more often than clay soils.
  • o
    The higher the CEC, the larger the quantity of lime that must be added to increase the soil pH; sandy soils need less lime than clay soils to increase the pH to desired levels.
 
Table 1. Soil-borne elements essential for plant growth, the form occurring in the soil and taken up by the plant, and their relative soil mobility.
Element (symbol)

Form taken up by the plant

Mobility in the soil

Nitrogen (N)

(NH4)+ Ammonium form
(NO3)- Nitrate form

Somewhat immobile
Mobile

Phosphorous (P)

(H2PO4)-, (HPO4)-2, PO-3

Immobile

Potassium (K)

K+

Somewhat mobile

Calcium (Ca)

Ca+

Somewhat mobile

Magnesium (Mg)

Mg+2

Somewhat mobile

Sulfur (S)

(SO4)-2

Mobile

Chlorine (Cl)

Cl-

Mobile

Iron (Fe)

Fe+2

Immobile

Boron (B)

(BO3)-

Mobile

Manganese (Mn)

Mn+2

Immobile

Zinc (Z)

Zn+2

Immobile

Molybdenum (Mo)

(MoO4)-

Mobile

Understanding nutrient movement in soils helps producers apply nutrients and water to maximize economic effectiveness while minimizing environmental impact.
 
For sure, if all your major cations are a positive charge and bio char is a anoion, Then it reasonable to assume if you don't charge your char, it'll attract all the cations into it leaving not much in the soil in the way of cations it'll all be char! Why its so important to preload your char correctly ! Good point 👍
 
I send all my char right through the worm bin and i harvest it out in the castings and not to much of the char at a time, itll will last a LONG TIME wherever you put it. I gotta tell you i like it that way better than adding it to my soil it has time to get a good preload and it doesn't bother the worms ,as a matter of fact they get all through the char i seen it stuck to their bodies as they move around in there it also reduces odor and absorbs excessive liquid just kinda gotta keep an eye 👁️ on the ph i like to keep oyster shell flour and crushed oyster shell on hand to make sure i keep my CA preload up very important to have enough Ca In veg or it won't be there when you need it the most! In Flower
 
Kinda what ive learned through getting My soil tested same goes with your phosphorus reserves! Thats how water only soil is supposed to work enough organic matter in the soil to maintain good reserves but in the same respect about nitrates you don't want a to high nitrate number in your soil at the start of a round because by time you flower the plants they will get to much nitrogen in the flowering stage. Then you'll want a good bacteria to fungal ratio to make accessible to the reserves you have in the bank,it doesn't do any good if its there but can't get it converted into usable stuff when exudates go out and thats why i started using that Bio Mass to help aid in that ,the guy that asses my soil test uses it religiously and i can see it right away in my plants when I use it best thing i ever started doing was getting my soil tested its worth the $90 to me to get it dialed in , otherwise it's easy to spend that in amendment and not even get any benefits out of it ,instead get a marginal yield and lackluster in terpines and cannabinoid production and the risk of seeds. I take My grow VERY seriously ,it used to be a hobby,but now its a cash crop Because im a caregiver and I used to off my overage to the dispensary before they changed the laws so i needed to get the bud tested through the lab so i had to learn to be careful of My inputs and watch for pathogens and and bugs they tested for mold spores and bug feces and i needed a higher thc content it was more desirable to the dispensary that way they had alot of people bringing in their product so it was a competitive market before they changed the laws here in Michigan. I knew it was going to fuck shit up when they made it recreational use here!
 
I asked Brandon about how important a Brix test is and his response to me was its not that important because the only way to fix brix in a plant is to know the soil content and you do that with a soil test so if your soil is up to par at the start of the round your Brix will be good but if your brix is no good say low then youd need a soil test to fix it anyway so if you don't get your soil tested then it good to do the Brix because it shows a problem in the soil but you still don't know how to fix the problem without throwing all kinds of shit at it then you might not raise the values anyways and Brix is highly dependant on environment as well so what do you go after first if you don't have a soil test, where do you go?? And what do you do to raise Brix without guessing!
 
To go back to nitrates if your nitrate levels are high during flower phase you'll get way more stretch and farther internodal spacing thats another reason a paste and malik test are in reused soil are essential for a good output nitrates tend to get high in marijuana because of all the nitrogen they require to grow
 
Micro nutrients was another topic in the pod cast .That also another thing that is something ppl tend to overuse alot me included Alot of your micros come in the compost and from other sources so things like Azimite is kind of a waste of money especially if you have high organic content (clays) in your soil which living soil is High in organic content and the plants dont need much of the micro also they are easy to overuse like MG because they come from other places again you don't know unless you get a test its easy to get out of balance and some of those levels they walk a fine line on to much to not enough don't go in heavy handed a gradual approach is probably best because you should see a change pretty quick when targeting a problem
 
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