Green Crack & White Cookies: Mainlining Under A Sunplix CMH

Slowpuffer said:
You made the right choose !!
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Very happy with it so far, but as we all know, the test will be in the flowering phase. The 630 would have been really nice but with a 6' tent and a 4' exhaust, no way it would have worked. If i was going forward with just the one tent and CMH, i would most likely add some COBs in the corners.
 
smoking1980 said:
What is the best lights to start growing
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Well smoking1980, it depends really on what level you want to grow at and what you budget is. You don't need the best of the best to grow personal medicine, some of us just choose to try to grow connoisseur level cannabis at home and go to the extra lengths. At this point i think CMH or LED are the obvious choices if it is a home personal garden.
 
bignugz420 said:
Are you running 4k or 3k bulbs? I am looking into a 3k deep red made by grower choice, I think it's best for seed to harvest
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This is the 3100K bulb. The nice thing about the adjustable ballast, when dimmer, the bulb throws more blues and when amped up, it throws more reds. I would like to try that bulb and the 10K finishing bulb from GC in this fixture.

As far as a beginning to end solution, i agree the 4200K bulb is most likely not needed. I am getting good stacking and have the whole time i have been vegging with this light.

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I was also getting pistils on the WC on day 5 and the GC a day later, pretty impressed so far. This was last night.

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Re: Green Crack & White Cookies - Mainlining Under A Sunplix CMH

I chose to go with leds because of the low heat and i am very happy so far.. i dont have a way to vent the heat out of my rental house and my light only raises the temp 2-5 f depending on how high i have my exhaust fan and other fans on. Its been perfect!
 
GreatWhiteBud said:
This is the 3100K bulb. The nice thing about the adjustable ballast, when dimmer, the bulb throws more blues and when amped up, it throws more reds. I would like to try that bulb and the 10K finishing bulb from GC in this fixture.

As far as a beginning to end solution, i agree the 4200K bulb is most likely not needed. I am getting good stacking and have the whole time i have been vegging with this light.

IMG_128340.JPG

I was also getting pistils on the WC on day 5 and the GC a day later, pretty impressed so far. This was last night.

IMG_128138.JPG
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I use one each, but maybe I should try with two 3100s ?
 
Girls look awesome......gonna join you to watch the Green Crack grow......better late than never!
 
bignugz420 said:
I have a 315w LEC air cooled made by sunsystem, I run a 4k bulb and my hps in my flower room I rotate plants around room so they get hit with both spectrum, but so far I love the growth and the tight nodes and the frosty colas, I am worried about hot months but I also have LED so I can always switch around lights, let me know your thoughts?
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Curious minds want to know......what do these bulbs and lighting systems do to your electricity bill compared to the supposed lower watt usage and lower heat production of LEDs. I went with LEDs strictly for these supposed benefits. I admit I really don't know much about these types of lights you are discussing. I chose to go with cheaper LEDs as the initial purchase (as I had to literally buy everything, tent, fans, exhaust, carbon filter, seeds, soil, pots, oscillating fans, surge suppressors, timers, and all the other stuff that needs to be purchased) and will invest in better LEDs later as I invest into separate grow tents for veg and flower stages and possibly mother/clone tent.
 
Van Stank said:
Curious minds want to know......what do these bulbs and lighting systems do to your electricity bill compared to the supposed lower watt usage and lower heat production of LEDs. I went with LEDs strictly for these supposed benefits. I admit I really don't know much about these types of lights you are discussing. I chose to go with cheaper LEDs as the initial purchase (as I had to literally buy everything, tent, fans, exhaust, carbon filter, seeds, soil, pots, oscillating fans, surge suppressors, timers, and all the other stuff that needs to be purchased) and will invest in better LEDs later as I invest into separate grow tents for veg and flower stages and possibly mother/clone tent.
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Well the first thing with LEDs you have to look at is are you talking about the power draw of the unit of the wall or like many LED companies used to advertise, the maximum amount your LEDs could take if run full strength, which they never are. I had a LED board that used 5 watt diodes and there was 240 of them i believe ... ie 1200 watts, though its actual power draw at the wall is only 515 watts.

Though really when we get down to it, you need to look at the output of the light itself with so many different types of lights these days and they all have differing efficiencies. I am talking about its output versus every joule of energy. A low level LED puts out less than 1 umol/j. A DE 1000 watt HPS is 1.7 umol/j, phillips cmh is 1.95 umol/j. Once you start getting into top of the line components DIY LED or commercial fixtures, you can push over the 2 umol/j mark.

I totally understand your route, i went the same and made a few mistake purchases along they way buying stuff i didn't really need. I think if you have a 3x3 space you cant go wrong with a 315 cmh or a DE 630 in a 5x5, hard to beat that output for the price.
 
I've done lot of research about this lately and actually best umol/w and umol/dollar is de 1000w hps by far and most of test was done 630w vs 1000w de cmh loses umols alot by distance and light penetration is poorer than 600w hps that's only the down sizes of the cmh i don't say is bad it's awesome tech but when you looking for most umol per wat and per dollar and heat is not problem 1000w de beat's it all
 
UltraGärtner said:
I've done lot of research about this lately and actually best umol/w and umol/dollar is de 1000w hps by far and most of test was done 630w vs 1000w de cmh loses umols alot by distance and light penetration is poorer than 600w hps that's only the down sizes of the cmh i don't say is bad it's awesome tech but when you looking for most umol per wat and per dollar and heat is not problem 1000w de beat's it all
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I agree but that is not practical for a lot of tent, closets, or small basement gardens. When you add in the extra costs of electricity, AC, and the fact the HPS spectrum produces a lower quality product, i will go with LED or CMH everytime.

As far as output, the numbers are what they are, and if you added 1000 watts of hps and 1000 watts of CMH, you will have a higher PAR with the CMH.
 
GreatWhiteBud said:
Well the first thing with LEDs you have to look at is are you talking about the power draw of the unit of the wall or like many LED companies used to advertise, the maximum amount your LEDs could take if run full strength, which they never are. I had a LED board that used 5 watt diodes and there was 240 of them i believe ... ie 1200 watts, though its actual power draw at the wall is only 515 watts.

Though really when we get down to it, you need to look at the output of the light itself with so many different types of lights these days and they all have differing efficiencies. I am talking about its output versus every joule of energy. A low level LED puts out less than 1 umol/j. A DE 1000 watt HPS is 1.7 umol/j, phillips cmh is 1.95 umol/j. Once you start getting into top of the line components DIY LED or commercial fixtures, you can push over the 2 umol/j mark.

I totally understand your route, i went the same and made a few mistake purchases along they way buying stuff i didn't really need. I think if you have a 3x3 space you cant go wrong with a 315 cmh or a DE 630 in a 5x5, hard to beat that output for the price.
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Great information and I appreciate your response. Much of what you said, especially pertaining to the actual power draw vs what the label said are thing things I was aware of. One thing you didn't mention was the heat factor and the electricity cost of those other lights. I don't have the capacity to vent out of the room....so I simply vent out of the tent into the grow room and leave the windows and door open to exchange clean air into the room. So heat was one of my major factors.....how do these lights compare to the supposed lower heat vs HID lights? And my other question I guess is what are these lights drawing from the wall in way of billable electricity. I would assume that if its saying 350 watts, its hopefully drawing what it says from the wall. I have to keep my lights on the lower end (I have 2 different 600 watt LEDs, as I couldn't choose one over the other and decided to try both) as I rent a duplex and share power with the landlord and he pays the electricity bill. I would have gone with a different set up if I was paying my own electricity bill. Hence why I am wondering how these lights are on wattage pull and heat. When I either upgrade or move, I might want to consider them. Grow power is important, but its on the lower level of my checklist below heat and wattage draw.

Again, I appreciate your information and response.
 
Van Stank said:
Great information and I appreciate your response. Much of what you said, especially pertaining to the actual power draw vs what the label said are thing things I was aware of. One thing you didn't mention was the heat factor and the electricity cost of those other lights. I don't have the capacity to vent out of the room....so I simply vent out of the tent into the grow room and leave the windows and door open to exchange clean air into the room. So heat was one of my major factors.....how do these lights compare to the supposed lower heat vs HID lights? And my other question I guess is what are these lights drawing from the wall in way of billable electricity. I would assume that if its saying 350 watts, its hopefully drawing what it says from the wall. I have to keep my lights on the lower end (I have 2 different 600 watt LEDs, as I couldn't choose one over the other and decided to try both) as I rent a duplex and share power with the landlord and he pays the electricity bill. I would have gone with a different set up if I was paying my own electricity bill. Hence why I am wondering how these lights are on wattage pull and heat. When I either upgrade or move, I might want to consider them. Grow power is important, but its on the lower level of my checklist below heat and wattage draw.

Again, I appreciate your information and response.
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The heat from my CMH is negligible i find, i barely have my exhaust fan on when set at 315. I think you have to remember watts equal heat, you can't get around it. A bTU doesn't care what light the wattage is running through. Yes you will get more heat from HPS due to all the IR but the CMH specturm is very different.

My old LED for instance heated my tent above 80 with the exhaust fan on full blast. It is all somewhat the same in that regard, if you run wattage, it will create heat. A lot of the new heat sink designs are better at dispersing that heat, but with that said, they are also insanely efficient LED boards that run at lower wattage and amperage.
 
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