Graytail's Cupwinners in High Brix Soil - 4x4 - 600W HPS - Perpetual

Who knows, it might have gone better for Scarlett if she'd been raising cannabis instead of cotton.

:scratchinghead::cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Happy New Year
 
Backatcha, BAR!

:party::bongrip::headbang::laugh:
 
I chopped White Panther today - turned out she wasn't on a growth spurt. I'll have dried weight by the next update.

This is a very good strain, folks - I recommend it without reservation.

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Congrats Gray...
 
VonDankenhoek said:
Damn baby!
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Heheh, I agree - dayum!

CareStaker said:
Love this channel :popcorn:
and some washed, fine looking buds - great eye Tavosvo!
Congrats Grey, they look perfect!
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Thanks for watching my grow, CS!

KingJohnC said:
Congratulations on your harvest!
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Thank you so much, KJC!

DrDankNstien said:
Gratz Graytail they look awesome bro:)
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That feels especially good coming from you, man - thanks. I need some more grows to catch up to guys like you. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Dennise said:
:hmmm:Hi Graytail. Can you explain the brix in dummy language?? Just keep in mind I am blonde to the roots! I read what u posted a few pages back but I don't understand.
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Ah, good question, and I don't profess to understand it very well myself.

Plants need various elements to grow, and these are usually supplied by soil biota - bacteria and fungi. Roots do more than draw water into the plant - they also exude various sugars which change depending on the state of health of the plant. Different soil biota also thrive on different sugars. So the root exudates are a signal to the soil biota, reflecting the plant's varying needs. A good organic soil is rich in soil biota and the basic elements that the biota require. The biota then feed the plant by using root exudates to break down minerals to produce N, P, K, etc.

Or ... we can just feed the plant directly with fertilizers and skip the biota entirely, which is what modern agriculture is based on.

High brix is an attempt to produce a "perfectly" tuned soil. It turns out that minerals need to be present in the soil in certain ratios for the biota to be at full health. Much like you hear about nute lockout from ph problems, soil can be too high in one mineral or another and that will give the biota some trouble. So high brix soil starts out "tuned". Then we use foliars to manipulate root exudates to feed the sorts of biota we're targeting. Instead of feeding the plants, we're feeding the biota, which then feed the plant. We use drenches to alter the soil chemistry, which alters the way the biota function.

In a way, the tuned soil acts like a hydro environment. As long as you don't unbalance it, you can get the plants to respond to manipulation fairly easily. The trick is not screwing up the soil doing it. :cheesygrinsmiley:

The refractometer lets us check results easily and quickly.
 
Graytail said:
Heheh, I agree - dayum!



Thanks for watching my grow, CS!



Thank you so much, KJC!



That feels especially good coming from you, man - thanks. I need some more grows to catch up to guys like you. :cheesygrinsmiley:



Ah, good question, and I don't profess to understand it very well myself.

Plants need various elements to grow, and these are usually supplied by soil biota - bacteria and fungi. Roots do more than draw water into the plant - they also exude various sugars which change depending on the state of health of the plant. Different soil biota also thrive on different sugars. So the root exudates are a signal to the soil biota, reflecting the plant's varying needs. A good organic soil is rich in soil biota and the basic elements that the biota require. The biota then feed the plant by using root exudates to break down minerals to produce N, P, K, etc.

Or ... we can just feed the plant directly with fertilizers and skip the biota entirely, which is what modern agriculture is based on.

High brix is an attempt to produce a "perfectly" tuned soil. It turns out that minerals need to be present in the soil in certain ratios for the biota to be at full health. Much like you hear about nute lockout from ph problems, soil can be too high in one mineral or another and that will give the biota some trouble. So high brix soil starts out "tuned". Then we use foliars to manipulate root exudates to feed the sorts of biota we're targeting. Instead of feeding the plants, we're feeding the biota, which then feed the plant. We use drenches to alter the soil chemistry, which alters the way the biota function.

In a way, the tuned soil acts like a hydro environment. As long as you don't unbalance it, you can get the plants to respond to manipulation fairly easily. The trick is not screwing up the soil doing it. :cheesygrinsmiley:

The refractometer lets us check results easily and quickly.
Click to expand...

Great laymans explanation there Gray!
 
Dennise said:
Ok so what this is saying is that you are keeping the soil fine tuned with say worm casings, etc (I realize that etc. includes a lot) depending on what it shows it needs and by doing so you don't use any added nutes??? And they produce those????
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The worm casings just provide a nice organic supply of nitrogen for when the biota aren't working at their best - insurance. It doesn't disturb the soil balance, but it's not part of the soil "tune" - that's all in the minerals and micronutrients.

And yes, like a supersoil or other rich organic soil, high brix is designed to get the majority of its nutrition from the soil and biota. Unlike supersoil, we still feed the soil, but we do it to change the active biota. We can feed biota that promote root growth or plant growth or flower growth - kinda fiddle with the way the plant grows, organically.

The difference is the soil. These foliars and drenches were designed for a specifically tuned soil - no point in doing one without the other.
 
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