Graytail's 3rd: 4x4, HiBrix, Latest LED Tech, Lots Of Light!

duggan said:
Thanks so much my friend...I know that prolly took you a few min's. to find that info ,so reps brotha. You say you flipped at 20" ...how bout that Gray ,i did too...not knowing what you did.I can say for sure that they will top out way taller than your 27.5".Today they are at a solid 24,and no pistils yet....shoot Gray they really havn't even started to stretch yet. They were growing this fast, last week before the flip....oh oh! There is plenty of room ,up top for them, so i'm ready...i hope!:thanks: Cheers eh and have an awesome night pal.
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Yeah, that last update of yours made me a lil nervous, heheh - they look Really lively! But with enough tops they just might tire out before the full stretch. At least your pheno looks manageable. I don' know what this one of mine is gonna do. I have to start training it soon, and all I see is another Utopia Haze, all weak-stemmed and fluffy. As you can see, my Destroyer looked a lot like your Desfran.
 
I just got my latest city water report and TA has gone to 400+! :thedoubletake: It was 270 last year.

Good thing I have RO now. :straightface:
 
Graytail said:
I just got my latest city water report and TA has gone to 400+! :thedoubletake: It was 270 last year.

Good thing I have RO now. :straightface:
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Wow that sucks, thats a big change.

Thats right around what mine runs at and trust me they don't like it one bit without the RO :rofl:
 
Total alkalinity

Edit It doesn't look like it is the measurement of hardness. Here is something I found on a pool site that breaks it down.

Don't let all the technical terms and details overwhelm you -- in simple terms, your swimming pool must maintain a stable chlorine level and stay balanced. Balance refers to three component levels: pH, total alkalinity (TA) and hardness. If your chlorine level is too low, you add more chlorine. If your pH needs adjusting, you add an acid or base. Additives also manipulate TA and hardness. Related to pH, total alkalinity is a measure of the alkaline substances in the water. The pH depends on TA. When maintained at proper levels, pool water resists a change in pH. Hardness, on the other hand, is a measure of the calcium and magnesium in the water.
 
Oh wow...we don't get that report because we live in a Townhome community and are never charged for water use. I bet I can get it from the water utility board website though. I have been here for about 4 years and still this freaks me out. I have always had a water/sewer bill until this place. I'm checking now.

My water report is so confusing to read. Online I was able read back to 2001 and each year the results are displayed differently using different units of measure. I am totally confused, no TA listed oh well the EPA isn't looking out for anyone anyway. I'm in the middle of Fracking Central here in Weld County yay! Gasland I'll probably die of some unknown immune system issue in the long run - oh well - I'll grow some weed in the mean time. I know the pH is 6.5 from my pH paper.
 
SmokeyMcFly said:
Total alkalinity

Edit It doesn't look like it is the measurement of hardness. Here is something I found on a pool site that breaks it down.

Don't let all the technical terms and details overwhelm you -- in simple terms, your swimming pool must maintain a stable chlorine level and stay balanced. Balance refers to three component levels: pH, total alkalinity (TA) and hardness. If your chlorine level is too low, you add more chlorine. If your pH needs adjusting, you add an acid or base. Additives also manipulate TA and hardness. Related to pH, total alkalinity is a measure of the alkaline substances in the water. The pH depends on TA. When maintained at proper levels, pool water resists a change in pH. Hardness, on the other hand, is a measure of the calcium and magnesium in the water.
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Thanks for the info, Smokey! I always assumed it was hardness, but I bet it has a similar effect. Calcium is alkaline, I know. So, over time, my city water raises the pH of the soil, and also adds too much calcium. I don't know enough to gauge how much extra mag is in the water, and my report doesn't list the benign minerals. I've been blending a small amount of the old soil into my recycle bins. I figure the minerals have been broken down more than the fresh stuff, and it already has raised humus levels and tuned biota, so as long as I don't overdo it, it should be beneficial, especially now that I have RO water with no minerals at all. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Graytail said:
Thanks for the info, Smokey! I always assumed it was hardness, but I bet it has a similar effect. Calcium is alkaline, I know. So, over time, my city water raises the pH of the soil, and also adds too much calcium. I don't know enough to gauge how much extra mag is in the water, and my report doesn't list the benign minerals. I've been blending a small amount of the old soil into my recycle bins. I figure the minerals have been broken down more than the fresh stuff, and it already has raised humus levels and tuned biota, so as long as I don't overdo it, it should be beneficial, especially now that I have RO water with no minerals at all. :cheesygrinsmiley:
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Me too :) I have both hard water and high TA, I think hardness is the TDS measurement on the report. Your old soil would probably be nice top dress from time to time too if its loaded up on minerals. I have added epsom salt somewhere around week 4-6 depending on the strain on almost every plant I have grown since going RO. Usually two back to back top dresses at that time straightens them out for the rest of the grow.
 
As long as we're on the subject, and I'm pretty ignorant about deficiencies ... anybody know what this is? It just showed up on the BH x BB in the past few days. I've had some pale-veined leaves in the past, but this is new.


DSCN7599.JPG
 
I'm really not an expert with deficiencies but looking at the deficiency chart that looks like a mag issue. How old is it and how big of a pot is she in?

Edit, removed picture before the mods do :)
 
That's exactly what a tester plant of mine looked like in docs soil given nothing but water. I did Docs fix it mix followed by water, then ge. Foliars were also used at this point, and the plant came back no problem. Another subjected to the same torture was only given water, and did not recover until a transplant.

Sorry I don't have an answer, just an experience. My plants looked that way because I was not following directions I'm sure, I always try to push the limits.
 
To me it look like perfect cal-mag deficiencies I get if I don't use it with ro water.

Yellow and light green is Cal and the rusty spots are mg, ask doc for OG drench and Epson salt.
 
I thought the early pale veining might be a mag issue, but it straightened out for awhile, until now. Good! Thanks, guys. :cheesygrinsmiley:

I never had the issue before because I was using my city water. I feed on the light side, so I could go for a good strong drench from the kit, or I could do the epsoms ...

What do we think?
 
It does look like Ca/Mg issue indeed, which is usually caused by excessive potassium, but cause you barely have it in your soil, and you use RO, it's probably common deficiency. Ah Gray, I used filtered water for a bit instead of spring one last year, and I quickly noticed leaves developed microdeficiencies. I stopped using it, I go back to the nearest fountain once a week now to get some spring water for my gals, and I never saw it again. Remember that a lot of minerals are provided simply through water feeding, so RO wouldn't be my first choice :Namaste:
 
I would do a good strong trans drench I did about 20-30ml with 2ml tea for my 10gal pot when I needed to straighten it out after CD along with a top dress of a epsom. I usually follow the super drench (I think thats what its getting called these days) up with a normal sized GE drench 3 or 4 days later and I usually do back to back top dress of epsom when I need to do them.

I find it strange that your having this in veg though, I have never had a deficiency in veg only some unhappy leaves when the plant was root bound and needed transplanted. Might be a good idea to run this one past Doc and see what he thinks is going on and what the best way to get it back on track is.
 
Darkgrow said:
To me it look like perfect cal-mag deficiencies I get if I don't use it with ro water.

Yellow and light green is Cal and the rusty spots are mg, ask doc for OG drench and Epson salt.
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I think you have these backwards. According to the chart the rusty spots are Cal and the light green veins are from Mg. They typically show up together anyway but the kit has a ton of cal in it so we usually get just the mg def if anything when using RO :thumb:
 
Thx Smokey :thumb:

Sometimes it is good to talk BS if you get corrected :Namaste:

I just have a cal deficit and gave more mg as I looked at the wrong pic.
Seems I am to low on nutes as it happens right after the first flush.
 
Im lucky I guess, I have 4 50 gallon cisterns and am on a well that's pretty high in ppms. Ill do rain water then half and half then straight tap...my girls seem to love it :)
 
Graytail said:
As long as we're on the subject, and I'm pretty ignorant about deficiencies ... anybody know what this is? It just showed up on the BH x BB in the past few days. I've had some pale-veined leaves in the past, but this is new.


DSCN7599.JPG
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My best guess is a Magnesium def the older leaves have the classic green veins with yellow surrounding leaf and the new growth has the lime green on the edges - here is a great source of info:Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial :)
 
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